Tag Archives: Camping

Backpacking

Henrietta Lake

Level: Moderate

Distance: 10 km o/w

Time: 5 h

Elevation Change: 1475 m

Season: June to Oct

Map: 92 G/11

Access: Getting there is as simple as hopping a bus destined for Squamish [See Getting to Whistler.] The Woodfibre pulp mill is no longer in operation which is good news for those averse to the rotten egg scent of sulphur dioxide. The bad news is that the trailhead is no longer serviced by ferry from Darrell Bay. Instead, you’ll have to arrange private transportation across Howe Sound from Squamish. Contact Jay Bicknell [1-866-466-BOAT or 1-604-815-9647] at Squamish Riverjet.

Unlike various trails in Garibaldi Park, Henrietta Lake and beyond are rarely visited by more than a couple groups at a time. The route to Henrietta Lake follows a service road behind the now-defunct Woodfibre pulp mill. Breathe deeply: the air hasn’t smelled so good in decades. The service road will take you steeply up through a series of switchbacks, under a large powerline and up into the Woodfibre Creek Valley quickly leaving the sights, sounds and memory of heavy industry behind. At each branch of the road take the right fork to remain on the mainline.

At kilometre four you may enjoy a brief side trip to check out the flume which supplies the mill with water. A 15 minute stroll along the boardwalk-topped flume itself takes you to the intake pond. On a hot summer day this enticingly deep pool offers an icy jolt that will take your breath away. A metal grill separates the intake from the pool so there is little danger of being sucked down the flume. During times of high water, however, excess spills over the front of the pool creating a waterfall and considerable peril. Use your own judgment and keep in mind that whatever you do on company property is at your own risk. At the very least, top up water bottles here.

Lakeside Refuge: Watertight cabin overlooking the dam at Henrietta Lake.

At kilometre six the logging road abruptly ends at a sturdy aluminum footbridge. Steep suddenly becomes steeper as you follow a series of switchbacks up the last pitch before Henrietta Lake. As the narrow trail winds upward through an attractive old growth forest it crosses and re-crosses remnants of a rail lift that was once used for hauling construction materials up to the lake when it was dammed in 1947. Near the end of the trail you’ll come across a strange looking structure. Keep out! It provides access for engineers from the pulp mill to the underground shaft that drains the lake.

At Henrietta Lake you’ll find the aforementioned dam, a rather rundown but watertight cabin, a rustic picnic table and a floating platform perfect for hot day dips of the skinny variety. The water of Henrietta Lake is surprisingly warm, bearable at any rate and supports a healthy, if over-fed, trout population. Try fly fishing later in the season-say September or October-once the bugs have bugged off for good.

Since water flows were once manually controlled the cabin originally served as a hermitage for on-site staff. Now, with the advent of automation, the cabin is still maintained as emergency shelter. Visitors are welcome to use it but are requested to clean up after themselves. Being mouse-infested, it is suggested that this resort be used only as a last resort, particularly since mice droppings as close as eastern Washington state have been linked to the deadly hanta virus. Outside there are comfortable campsites for up to two tents.

Behind the cabin the trail leads past a sturdy helipad and begins climbing steeply towards Mt Roderick. Look for a rusted diesel “donkey” in the bush to the right. Being less travelled the trail is somewhat overgrown with blue huckleberry bushes in places but is otherwise in good condition. Remember, bears also find the fruit delicious.

Once on top you’ll continue climbing the ridgeline past Sylvia Lake. The best camping is to be had beyond the rock slide. Or take the high road and continue past tiny Woodfibre Lake and on up to the summit of Mount Roderick at 1475 metres. A stupendous view on all sides is the reward for making the ascent.

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Backpacking

Garibaldi Park: Singing Pass Loop

Level: Moderate

Season: July to October

Distance:

Musical Bumps Route 9 km o/w; Time: 7 h

Fitzsimmons Creek Route 11 km o/w; Time: 8 h

Elevation Change: Roundhouse to Flute Summit +152 m Flute Summit to Russet Lake -945 m Russet Lake to Singing Pass +305 m Singing Pass to Whistler Village -610 m

Map: 92 J/2 Whistler.

A full-colour plastic map of the entire Garibaldi Region is available from Lower Mainland bookstores. Published by International Travel Maps at a scale of 1:100,000. They forgot to include a scale but that’s 1 cm = 1 km. The only other drawback is contour intervals are based on older government charts expressed in feet rather than metres. Conversion yields intervals of 61 m, not exactly a dream number to navigate with.

Access: [See Getting to Whistler.] The Whistler Express gondola will be found on the edge of the main village. The trailhead to Singing Pass starts from British Columbia’s premier four-season resort community. Visitors and newcomers to the West Coast may want to combine this moderate backpacking trip with a day or two spent exploring and relaxing in Whistler Village afterwards. Mountain biking, river rafting, golf are just a few of the summer pursuits popular here.

Until recently most hikers reached Singing Pass via the Fitzsimmons Creek access road, driving to within 7 km of the alpine pass. Washouts along the old logging road now preclude vehicle access. And while hikers and mountain bikers still use the road most visitors to this part of Garibaldi Provincial Park follow the “Musical Bumps” route instead. While purists and the very frugal may insist on reaching the trailhead on foot, trudging up through the open gashes slashed out of the forest for skiers makes for pretty dull hiking. The majority grudgingly dish out the astounding $21 required to ride the Whistler Express gondola up to the Roundhouse restaurant at the top of the mountain. The lift operates daily during high season from the last week of June through to the last week of September.

With most, but not all of the elevation already gained, check the map and information board after unloading to find the start of the Harmony Lake Trail. While trails snake around either side of Whistler glacier the left fork via Harmony Lake is shorter. After reuniting, the route scoots up and over one of Whistler Mountain’s sprawling shoulders before dropping down again to Burnt Stew Lake. M-m-m… What’s for lunch? The trail rises again up and around the “Musical Bumps,” past krumholtz, threading a path through seemingly endless rocky meadows. The faint path first skirts around to the east of Piccolo Summit then cuts over the top of 1981 m Flute Summit just a kilometre away before finally weaving 1½ km back around to the north and east of Oboe Summit.

Typically, during July and August the meadows are alive with a brilliant pastiche of wildflowers: splashes of yellow, purple and blue, white and red against the backdrop of glacial Cheakamus Lake far below and distant crags draped in ice. Stay on the trail to avoid unnecessary damage to the fragile alpine landscape.

After rounding Oboe Summit the route drops down again to Singing Pass less than a kilometre away. Just prior to reaching a You Are Here sign complements of BC Parks note the return trail via Fitzsimmons Creek branching off to the left.

Continue on, the best views can be had from a ridge just a mere 500 metres beyond Singing Pass. When drinking in the panorama of snow and glacier-covered peaks note Russet Lake nestled at the base of Fissile Peak. Make for the acorn-shaped cabin at the north end of the lake to set up tents. The cabin was built by the Alpine Club of Canada whose members frequently ascend the peaks and ice fields hereabouts. Unless planning to join them on the precipices, Russet Lake is the end of the road for backpackers.

Retrace the two kilometres back to Singing Pass where hikers are confronted with a choice. The shortest route back is the way you came, 8 km up and over the Musical Bumps to the gondola which, incidentally, ceases operations at 8:00 PM every evening. The loop route paralleling Fitzsimmons Creek is longer [10 kilometres] and while it passes through a delightful old-growth forest, half of the route passes through some of the forest industry’s finest clearcuts. On the upside it’s downhill all the way.

From Singing Pass the trail drops down through alpine meadows parallel to the course of Melody Creek. Gradually the stunted bonsai trees of sub alpine merge into a forest with trees getting larger as you drop into the valley. As you turn away from Melody Creek the forest becomes a mature stand of timber.

The boundary of Garibaldi Provincial Park is easy to recognize as the forest beyond it has been obliterated. The view does not improve for the rest of the journey though just past the boundary check out an abandoned gold mine at trail side. The gaping cavern, shored up with heavy wooden beams, and rusty ore cart rails are reminiscent of some cheesy western movie and seem somehow out of place here in the British Columbia outback.

Soon after the mine you’ll reach the parking lot from which hikers traditionally accessed Singing Pass. An alternative route drops from the parking lot directly down across Fitzsimmons Creek picking up a service road along the fringes of Blackcomb Mountain. Though more scenic, this less direct route entails crossing Fitzsimmons Creek which may be a torrent early in the season.

Except for a few washed out sections the 5 km from the parking lot to Whistler Village are uneventful. Stay alert for black bears which tend to proliferate in clearcut areas. The end of the dirt road joins Blackcomb Way just behind the main bus loop in the Village. Splurge a little if you can afford it and soak all the trail dust off in a private hot tub. Budget accommodations are also available.

Reviews <<->> River Rafting

Backpacking

Garibaldi Park: Panorama Ridge

Level: Moderate

Distance: 15 km r/t

Time: 5½ h

Elevation Change: 630 m

Season: June to Oct

Access: See previous hikes.

If the scenery from the top of Black Tusk was not enough then gaining the summit of Panorama Ridge will more than satisfy. Follow the same route from <http://www.car-free.ca/bc-car-free/backpacking/garibaldi-park-garibaldi-lake.html>Garibaldi Lake to where you zigged left to the Tusk. Zag to the right instead, this time, continuing along the main trail. The trail forks again at the divide between two watersheds with the right fork leading up to Panorama Ridge itself. Either before or after mounting the ridge be sure to leave enough time to explore the geological wonders along the left fork as well.

West-Facing North Face: Black Tusk dominates the view from a cliffside condo perched high atop Panorama Ridge.

This route leads over the divide, across the cinder flats, then steeply down to the cable car across the raging Cheakamus River. Follow it past Helm Lake to Cinder Cone, a tiny, 200 metre tall, extinct volcano at the foot of Helm Glacier. On a hot day the cool air and eerie blue light inside the ice caves below the glacier will provide respite from the sun. Backtrack now to the junction leading to Panorama Ridge where you’ll begin climbing almost immediately. The route follows a shoulder southward up to the east-west running ridge.

From the summit gaze south across azure Garibaldi Lake to the appropriately named Table silhouetted against the glaciers clinging to stately Garibaldi Mountain in the distance. 2049 metre Mount Price and Clinker Peak off to the right are extinct volcanos, as are 2675 metre Castle Towers and Phyllis Engine directly east. Look north to take in a panorama — thus the name — that encompasses Black Tusk, Cinder Cone and Helm Glacier. From the top of the ridge retrace your steps back to camp. Experienced and well-equipped mountaineers may want to continue following Panorama Ridge in a circuit that sweeps across the eastern arm of the ice field along Gentian Ridge to 2145 metre Helm Peak before descending steeply to the foot of Helm Glacier. This route is not for the inexperienced however as some climbing is involved. Be sure to rope your party together before venturing on to the ice field, Tom.

Ramblings <<->> Reviews

Backpacking

Garibaldi Park: Black Tusk

Level: Moderate

Distance: 14 km r/t

Time: 5½ h

Elevation Change: 850 m

Season: June to Oct

Map: 92 G/14 Cheakamus River & 92 G/15 Mamquam Mountain. A full-colour plastic map of the entire Garibaldi Region is available from Lower Mainland bookstores. Published by International Travel Maps at a scale of 1:100,000. They forgot to include a scale but that’s 1 cm = 1 km. The only other drawback is contour intervals are based on older government charts expressed in feet rather than metres. Conversion yields intervals of 61 m, not exactly a dream number to navigate with.

Black Tusk Access: The bus to Whistler [See Appendix Getting to Whistler] will drop you off at a side road 37 km north of Squamish on Highway 99. Make sure the driver completely understands where you want to get off. There should be ample room for the bus to pull over at the turn off. Look for signs along the Highway indicating Garibaldi Provincial Park, Black Tusk.

After getting off the bus follow the paved side road 2½ km east to the Rubble Creek parking lot. Be thankful you don’t have a car to park here as, on a typical weekend, at least some of them will be broken into. The route to the Tusk begins with the previous Garibaldi Lake trail description.

Whether camping or day tripping, a pilgrimage to the Tusk is de rigueur though climbing to the 2316 m summit is not recommended without special equipment. The trail to Black Tusk climbs away from Garibaldi Lake for three kilometres before rejoining the trail from Taylor Meadows campsite at Black Tusk Meadows. Expect the meadows to be alive with colour in the springtime, a verdant canvas splashed with purple heather and lupins, fiery red Indian paintbrush and golden butter cups all visited time and again by the busiest of bumblebees. Please remain on trails at all times to avoid disturbing this fragile landscape.

Continue through the meadows for a short distance before veering left on the fork that leads 2½ km up through loose talus to the base of the Tusk itself. This striking monolith is thought to be a volcanic plug; a column of solidified lava left behind as the cone is eroded away. The trail ends at the base of the only safely climbable chimney to the top. Novices should not attempt to scale the 100 metre route without benefit of ropes, helmet and the guidance of more experienced climbers. Always ascend or descend one at a time as the crumbly volcanic material presents considerable hazard to those below. The view from the top is without peer, extending from the Tantalus Range in the southwest and turquoise Garibaldi Lake at the foot of Panorama Ridge across to the Fitzsimmons Range in the northeast behind Whistler Village.

Horseback Riding <<->> Ramblings

Backpacking

Garibaldi Park: Garibaldi Lake

Level: Difficult

Distance: 11.8 km o/w

Time: 5 h

Elevation Change: 1210 m

Season: June to October

Map: 92 G/14 Cheakamus River & 92 G/15 Mamquam Mountain. A full-colour plastic map of the entire Garibaldi Region is available from Lower Mainland bookstores. Published by International Travel Maps at a scale of 1:100,000. They forgot to include a scale but that’s 1 cm = 1 km. The only other drawback is contour intervals are based on older government charts expressed in feet rather than metres. Conversion yields intervals of 61 m, not exactly a dream number to navigate with.

Access: The bus to Whistler [See Appendix Getting to Whistler] will drop you off at a side road 37 km north of Squamish on Highway 99. Make sure the driver completely understands where you want to get off. There should be ample room for the bus to pull over at the turn off. Look for signs along the Highway indicating Garibaldi Provincial Park, Black Tusk.

After getting off the bus follow the paved side road 2½ km east to the Rubble Creek parking lot. Be thankful you don’t have a car to park here as, on a typical weekend, at least some of them will be broken into. The trail proper begins from here.

Though steep, the route into this part of Garibaldi Provincial Park can be undertaken as a day trip for those who are reasonably fit. Rushing through the Black Tusk area, however, seems somehow sacrilegious given the sights you will necessarily miss.

After getting off the bus follow the paved side road 2½ km east to the Rubble Creek parking lot. Be thankful you don’t have a car to park here as, on a typical weekend, at least some of them will be broken into. The trail proper begins from here and you will be gaining elevation for most of the day, climbing steeply through a seemingly endless succession of switchbacks. The trail, sometimes derisively referred to as “Garibaldi Highway,” is wide and well-maintained, capable of accommodating heavy summer foot traffic. At the 6 km mark the trail forks with the left branch leading to Taylor Meadows campsite just 1½ km further on.

Continue climbing for three kilometres in the opposite direction in order to reach Garibaldi Lake campsite. Huts have been erected at both campsites but, unless you relish the idea of field mice crawling across your face while you sleep, bring a tent. Snowshoers and Nordic skiers will find the well-equipped huts a godsend during the winter. Because of ease of access from Vancouver both campsites are usually overfull on weekends during the summer. For that reason a weekday visit to the Black Tusk area is strongly advised. 195,080 hectare Garibaldi Provincial Park is the busiest in British Columbia. Camping at Taylor Meadows costs $5 while setting up a tent at the more popular lakeshore campsite costs twice as much.

Continuing along the right fork you’ll soon encounter a viewpoint overlooking The Barrier, the giant volcanic dam that created Garibaldi Lake when a river of lava, ash and cinder spewed out of Mt. Price some 11,000 years ago. For the most part, area lakes drain through, not over, the porous volcanic stone with just puny Rubble Creek visible on the surface. The area below the unstable Barrier has been declared a Civil Defence Zone and, while it isn’t expected to come crashing down into the valley any day soon, an earthquake could trigger just such a cataclysm. The Barrier has spawned massive landslides as recently as 1855.

Following the viewpoint, the trail soon begins to level out before descending to the park headquarters and camping area in front of the aptly named Battleship Islands. Either Taylor Meadows or Garibaldi Lake are ideally situated base camps for exploring the Black Tusk Meadows and Panorama Ridge high above. Pit toilets are available at both campsites but you will be expected to pack out any refuse you create. Fires are prohibited throughout this area.

Getaways <<->> Horseback Riding

Cycling

San Juan Islands – San Juan Island

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Terrain: Hilly

Traffic: Moderate

Season: Year Round

Distance: 72 km

Access: See section intro Getting to The San Juan Islands.

San Juan Island is the last of the four big islands in the San Juan Group that draw thousands of cyclists every year. The terrain and length of the cycling circuit, 72 km, is similar to that of Orcas though the scenery is far more diverse.

The island is unique in that rudimentary public transit exists, reaching most points of interest as it loops around the island on a 40 minute schedule. As a consequence, those not willing or able to explore the island on two wheels can do so on foot.

Campgrounds abound on San Juan Island but still arriving without reservations during high season is not recommended. The ideal place to set up a tent is San Juan County Park. Situated midway along the west coast of the island, cyclists can set up a base camp from which to explore the 41 km southern half of the island one day and the shorter, 31 km opposite end the next. Though San Juan County Park officially has only 11 individual campsites and no water, dozens more can pre-empt a piece of turf in the group campground. Bottled water and a few other essentials can be purchased in the park store. The real reason San Juan County Park is so popular has little to do with its amenities or lack thereof. Rather, orcas plying the waters of Haro Strait can often be seen from the foreshore and the bluffs overlooking Smallpox Bay. From the ferry slip Beaverton Valley Road provides the most direct access to the campground.

San Juan Island is the island of choice for cetacean watching. The Whale Museum in Friday Harbor is a must-see. Many commercial whale watching packages include a stop at the public education facility as part of the tour. As part of its ongoing research, the museum maintains a toll-free hotline (1-800-562-8832) for reporting whale sightings. Confirmed recent sightings are then noted on the museum’s website at the Whale Museum.

From May through September each year more than 80 individual orcas in 3 pods take up residence in the waters of the San Juan Islands. Attracted by Canadian salmon returning to the Fraser River via American waters the orcas and their smaller cousins, Dall’s and Harbor porpoises, are a delight to thousands of vacationers. Though the population of the Southern Resident Community has remained stable for several decades the Canadian government declared the orcas “threatened” in 1999 due to concerns about pollution, growing maritime traffic and, particularly, over-fishing by American commercial interests.

Whale watching excursions come in many flavours from 60 foot motor cruisers, zippy, little zodiacs and kayak-based paddle tours. And while joining a tour may offer a certain amount of certainty doing so is certainly not necessary. The favourite location for land-based whale watching is just 4 km south of San Juan County Park at Lime Kiln Point State Park. The site of Lime Kiln Lighthouse since 1919, the rocky bluffs here provide the best vantage anywhere for viewing orcas, minke whales and porpoises. If statistics are anything to go by, in past mid-summers orcas passed by at least once a day 77% of the time. On a typical summer day foraging cetaceans may pass by several times. Plan on a picnic and several hours spent lounging in the sunshine to catch a glimpse. The decrepit kilns at the park attest to a once thriving lime industry on the island.

Continue exploring southward on scenic West Side Road. If you reach False Bay, 8½ km further on, at low tide plan on getting muddy while exploring the extensive tidal flats. Sandals or a pair of neoprene beach booties will save your costly cycling shoes from the ravages of salt water.

Near the southern entrance to False Bay the Pedal Inn campground caters exclusively to the cycling set. This is a full-service, private campground that features 25 walk-in sites, pay showers, laundry facilities and even a limited supply of groceries.

Unlike other destinations in the San Juan Islands, the archipelago’s namesake offers generous access to the waterfront for landlubbers. The peddling public can thank a potato pilfering porker for this happy state of affairs. The slaughter of a Hudson’s Bay Company pig in 1859 by an American settler sparked a controversy that became known as the “Pig War.” As tensions heightened British and American forces set up encampments at opposite ends of the island. More about boundaries than bacon, the border war fortunately was never fought. Instead the dispute was eventually arbitrated by Wilhelm I of Germany. The Kaiser ruled in favour of the American claim to the pork and the British finally cleared out in 1872. Both garrisons are now national historic parks. Nearly the whole southern end of the island is devoted to the San Juan Island National Historical Park’s American Camp. Interpretive history displays with staff dressed in period costumes, extensive beaches and easy hiking trails are the legacy of one time bilateral belligerence. A succession of low rocky headlands and crescents of sand comprise the shore south of the interpretive displays. These finally give way to 3 km long South Beach. The whole public foreshore extends nearly 6 km. Flanking the American Camp, Eagle Cove to the west and Cattle Beach picnic area to the east provide additional points of access. The former is a popular swimming hole while the latter features a lighthouse overlooking San Juan Channel.

On the opposite side of the peninsula a 5 km trail follows the shore of Griffin Bay as far as an inaptly-named cove called Fish Creek before looping back through grassy pastures and over the knoll called Mount Finlayson. En route look for feral rabbits grazing at the edge of forest cover. The bunnies, which once reached a population of over a quarter of a million, are thought to be descendants of livestock brought to the island by 19th-century settlers.

Stay with Cattle Point then Argyle Road to return directly to the commercial heart of the island. Friday Harbour is 10 km up island. For a less direct approach take a 5 km detour looping first along Pear Point Road and then back via Turn Point Road to experience more of the island’s charming waterfront. On the way expect to encounter popular Jackson Beach, a small spit of sand adjacent to a cannery. Further along a small beachfront picnic site will be found opposite Turn Island Marine State Park.

Friday Harbour, the largest community in the San Juans, bustles with gift and craft shops, cappuccino bars and restaurants of every variety. Yet in spite of the trend towards commercialization in recent years Friday Harbour still retains much of its rural ambiance. In addition to the aforementioned Whale Museum, Friday Harbor boasts a historical museum as well. The San Juan Island Historical Museum is housed in a 19th-century farmhouse furnished and refurbished to the standards of the day.

To continue exploring the highways and by ways of the northern end of the island leave the Friday Harbor on the Roche Harbor Road. Within 7 km you’ll reach marshy Sportsman Lake, a favourite haunting ground of birders.

Lakedale Campground, just a click and a half further down the road, will strike terror into the very heart of every solitude-seeking cyclist. The commercial campground boasts 120 sites, 10 of which are dedicated to cyclists. Visitors can enjoy the full range of services including pay showers, a well-supplied grocery store, canoe and rowboat rentals and even,of all things, pay fishing.

Seclusion of sorts can be found way off the beaten track at the Reuben Tarte Picnic Area at the northwest corner of the island. Birders and scuba divers in particular are drawn to the quiet beachfront here. Historic Roche Harbour Resort boasts bed and board fit for the heads of state, or fit, at least, for American Presidents Teddy Roosevelt and William Howard Taft who both stayed at the venerable waterfront lodge. The opulent resort was once home to a bustling community of lime makers. Even if ostentation is not your thing the historic buildings and the lime kilns and quarry operations should not be overlooked. Roche Harbour was once the west coast’s largest lime producing operation with an output of 15,000 barrels of lime daily.

To reach the second half of the San Juan Island National Historical Park follow West Valley Road south for 6 km from Roche Harbor. Many of the original buildings still exist at English Camp. In addition to historical displays visitors can enjoy two pleasant hikes at English Camp. One excursion winds for just a click and a half around Bell Point, following the shoreline of Garrison Bay and Westcott Bay through an landscape dominated by arbutus and fir. The second trail, somewhat longer and steeper, climbs past the British Cemetery to the summit of Mount Young. For good reason the British kept a lookout posted on the 180 metre peak. As now, observers then could enjoy a panorama encompassing the whole San Juan-Gulf Islands archipelago, extending as far as the Olympic Mountains to the southwest and Mt. Baker to the east while watching for the approach of menacing ships. Round trip to the top is 3 km.

The final stop on our circle tour of San Juan Island is Snug Harbor Resort on Mitchell Bay. Though catering to the yachting set, camping, groceries and water may be of interest to cyclists as well. San Juan County Park is just 3 km further along.

From San Juan Island hop on board the ferry once more, this time headed back for Sidney, B.C. on Vancouver Island. If intending to continue exploring this archipelago by bicycle you will no doubt find the name, the country and even the atmosphere has changed. Now called the Gulf Islands, the pace of life seems to slow considerably. As actively as tourism has been pursued in the San Juans, it has been shunned by many who have come to the Gulf Islands seeking peace and an escape from the hurley burly of the complex modern world.

San Juan Islands - Orcas Island <<->> Bird Watching Introduction

Cycling

San Juan Islands – Orcas Island

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Terrain: Hilly

Traffic: Heavy

Season: Year Round

Distance: 77 km

Access: See section intro, Getting to The San Juan Islands.

Campgrounds, B & B’s and vacation resorts abound on Orcas Island. In fact, the only thing more plentiful is the number of tourists who invade the island every summer. For that reason dropping in without reservations during high season is pure folly. If camping out it will be necessary to cycle from the ferry terminal across island for 20 to 30 km fully laden with gear. With the exception of the private campground at West Beach Resort on the northwest corner of Orcas Island, most camping will be found on the eastern half of the Island. Unlike the previous two islands, Orcas Island is a rugged, mountainous rock with many hills to be overcome. Demanding, yes, but most certainly worth it.

Being a mecca for vacationers, Orcas Island, boasts a profusion of services. Restaurants, groceries and the like are usually just around the next corner.

From the ferry follow the aptly named Horseshoe Highway around Eastsound, the deep fjord which nearly severs Orcas Island in two. A longer, alternative route follows White Beach Road and Dolphin Bay Road around the shoulder of Mt. Woolard enabling cyclists with gonzo thigh muscles to avoid a good portion of the busy Horseshoe Highway. Pause for a well-earned moment of reflection at marshy Killebrew Lake. While RV camping is allowed here tents are not as there are no facilities of any kind.

The village of East Sound at the head of the like-named waterway is the urban centre of Orcas Island. Stock up on provisions here, get bikes fixed if necessary and plan a visit to the Orcas Island Historical Museum. Housed in six log cabins dating to the island’s pioneer era, the museum features displays of first nations culture as well as that of the settlers who supplanted them.


Orcas Island is rich in architectural history as well. Many of the island’s resorts were originally constructed according to Victorian-era models as hideaways for Seattle’s hoi polloi. The Orcas Hotel above the ferry terminal dates from the opening moments of the last century while the Post Office at Deer Harbor commenced operations in 1883. Rosario Resort got its start of in 1904 as the residence of industrialist and former Seattle mayor Robert Moran. Much of the wealthy ship builder’s estate was eventually donated to the state park system. Moran State Park is the result of that generous act of philanthropy.

Madrona Point, named for the arbutus trees which flourish on the rocky bluffs there, once served as a burial ground for the local Lummi Indians. Less than half a kilometre from East Sound, Madrona Point is an ideal spot from which to enjoy lunch and south-facing views overlooking Eastsound. As with the rest of the San Juan Islands, legal access points to the foreshore can be few and far between. Just east of Madrona Point, at the foot of Lover’s Lane, Fishing Bay Waterfront Park provides additional access to the beach overlooking Indian Island. The first campgrounds along Horseshoe Highway will be found on the shores of Cascade Lake in Moran State Park. There are two additional campgrounds higher up at Mountain Lake while walk-in sites are located in between. Altogether there are 166 campsites spread through five separate campgrounds within the park including 15 sites set aside specifically for cyclists and those who arrive without motor vehicle transportation. Those who arrive without reservations can only count on misery.

For camping with an ocean view try the Obstruction Pass Campground just beyond the settlement of Olga. Just nine campsites, all without water, populate this tiny timbered point. Designed specifically for kayakers, cyclists and hikers, there are no drive in campsites. The rocky bluffs and gravel beach are ideal vantage points from which to toast the setting summer sun.

A further 10 walk-in campsites can be found on the shores of Doe Bay. Even when full, wayward cyclists can usually find a foothold somewhere on the property. More than a campground, organic cooking, whole earth crafts and rustic accommodation make Doe Bay Resort perfect for groovin’ on a sunny afternoon. A relaxing, au naturel dip in the mineral hot tub is de rigueur. Be sure to wear some flowers in your hair.

The high point of Orcas Island- literally – is Mount Constitution. On an exceptionally clear day Mt. Baker, Mt. Ranier and even Vancouver, B.C. are visible from the stone observation tower at the 734 m summit. The truly gung-ho may want to try cycling up the road to the top of Mt. Constitution. Hiking is the recommended approach. Altogether Moran State Park has 50 km of hiking trails suited to nearly every ability level. Extending from sea level at Rosario and connecting both Cascade Lake and Mountain Lakes, a network of trails continues via Twin Lakes to reach the mountaintop. Very few trails are open to terrain-crunching mountain bikes.

Leave enough time on your return to the ferry landing to finish your explorations of the western half of the island. A thin sliver of beach is accessible at the end of North Beach Road near the island’s air strip. To avoid retracing your route follow a circuitous route along the Enchanted Forest Road, Crow Valley Road and Deer Harbor Road to visit West Sound village and historic Deer Harbor. Birders may spot something out of the ordinary at the Frank Richardson Wildlife Preserve. Follow Sunset Beach Road to reach the eight hectare marsh.

San Juan Islands - Shaw Island <<->> San Juan Islands - San Juan Island

Cycling

San Juan Islands – Shaw Island

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Terrain: Flat

Traffic: Light

Season: Year Round

Distance: 22 km

Access: See section intro, Getting to The San Juan Islands.

At 20 square kilometres, Shaw Island is the smallest, least developed of the San Juans. A general store, a historical society museum and a county campsite comprise the amenities on Shaw Island. The cycling circuit is a mere 22 km of well-paved country roads from which you’ll glimpse virgin stands of timber, historic farms and an active commercial salmon fishery. You may even want to scout the beach for agates at South Beach County Park [(206) 468-2580.]

Arrive early at Shaw Landing and head directly for the only campsite on the island. If in need of provisions pause for a moment after disembarking from the ferry. The general store at Shaw Landing is the only place on the island where groceries can be procured. Be forewarned that, since the Little Portion store is operated by a group of Franciscan nuns, it remains closed on Sundays.

To reach the park follow the road around the head of Blind Bay, turning left upon reaching Squaw Bay Road. South Beach County Park, about a kilometre further on, sadly has just 12 tents sites. If you find it full you may wish to do a quick circuit of the island then catch the ferry onward to Orcas Island in the afternoon. Those who crave a certain amount of solitude far from the hurly burly of other more tourist-infested campgrounds will find South Beach County Park a sheer delight however. The south-facing beach, a crescent of fine sand and gravel nearly a kilometre long, winds around the peninsula along the east side of Indian Cove and into Squaw Bay. Enjoy taking long walks, beachcombing and observing the abundant shore birds here as the rest of the foreshore of Shaw Island is off-limits due to the tyranny American real estate law. The shore at the western end of the island is a nature preserve.

Cyclists are limited to exploring the rural nature of inland Shaw Island rather than the maritime features ringing it. From South Beach County Park continue along Squaw Bay Road making a right at Hoffman Cove Road. At the island’s principal intersection you’ll find the Little Red Schoolhouse which still operates as a one-room school for the children of Shaw Island’s 163 year-round residents. Kitty-corner to the historic school a log cabin serves as the island’s museum. Visitors are welcome every Monday and Saturday.

Continue peddling north along the Ben Nevis Loop Road turning right where it rejoins Blind Bay Road. If time allows follow Neck Point Road 5 km out and back for more of Shaw Island’s pleasant rural landscape. If unable to camp over on Shaw Island follow Blind Bay Road all the way back to the ferry landing. A short detour along Smugglers Cove Road reveals more of the island’s foreshore. Smuggling, incidentally, has a long history throughout the San Juan Islands. A myriad of islands and heavy maritime traffic have made eluding interdiction easy. Illegal immigrants from China, wool, whisky and, to this day, British Columbia’s fine hemp products, have all found their way into the States from its neighbour to the north via these waters.

Desolation Sound <<->> San Juan Islands - Orcas Island

Cycling

San Juan Islands – Lopez Island

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Terrain: Fairly Flat

Traffic: Light

Season: Year Round

Distance: 53 km

Access: See section intro, Getting to The San Juan Islands.

Since pedalling Lopez Island’s 53 km circuit is easy, cyclists will have plenty of time to explore the foreshore, stop for a refreshing dip in Hummel Lake or photograph the ample agricultural artifacts of the island’s frontier era. Farming continues to be the principle industry here.

While there are numerous inns and B & B’s to choose from venture not to Lopez without reservations. Most rooms throughout these islands are booked up as much as 6 months in advance. Campers too may find both Spencer Spit State Park and Odlin County Park full to bursting during the high season summer months.

From the ferry both of the island’s campgrounds are nearby. Since campgrounds throughout the San Juan Islands fill up fast, securing a campsite should be a high-priority. Setting up camp early not only reserves a spot for the night, but allows you to leave behind most of your gear. Of course valuables such as camera and cash should never be left unattended. Neither park on Lopez Island has showers so embark on a clockwise tour around the island, ending up towards the end of the day in the Fishermen Bay – Lopez Village area where showers, laundry and provisions can all be had.

Odlin County Park, on the sunset side of the island, is just 1½ km from the ferry dock. Altogether Odlin County Park boasts 30 campsites and a sandy beach overlooking Upright Channel. With luck, one of the more secluded beachfront bicycle campsites will be available. If full, sprint across to the sunrise side via Port Stanley Road to Spencer Spit State Park. The park can accommodate 49 groups, including 18 walk-in campsites for cyclists and kayakers above the beach.

To begin your explorations head down island towards Hunter and Mud Bays, avoiding Center Road, the island’s busiest, wherever possible. At the end of Islandale Road you’ll find a public wharf on the little peninsula separating both bays. Public access to the waterfront can be had further along Mud Bay Road and again near the end of Sperry Road. Unlike in Canada where 98 percent of all foreshore belongs to the Crown and is publicly accessible, in the U.S. most beaches are part of the private property above them and owners can and do enforce their ownership.

En route to the beach, at the corner of Mud Bay Road and Mackaye Harbor Road, you’ll find the Islandale Bicycle Rest, a small picnic area set aside for cyclists. Picnic tables, outhouses and shade have been provided for the comfort of the many two-wheeled tourists who visit Lopez each year. Not surprisingly water, that scarcest of commodities, is not available.

There are two more noteworthy points of waterfront access on the southeast corner of Lopez Island. Hughes Bay County Park off Watmough Head Road features a gravel beach at the bottom of a steep, wooden staircase. Mackaye Harbor Road leads to Agate Beach Picnic Area where again all the amenities except water are available. Working around to the west cyclists will find a boat launch at Mackaye Harbor and a public pier at historic Richardson. The latter was once a busy fishing and steamship port from which the island’s produce reached markets in Seattle.

From Richardson take Burt Road across island to reach the old-growth forest reserve at Shark Reef Recreation Area. Birders with an interest in waterfowl will want to set their sights on Hummel Lake while those captivated by predatory habits will find a variety of raptors but no sharks at Shark Reef Recreation Area. The old-growth sustains a variety of owls while the nation’s symbol can be found nesting in the topmost branches. Rather than a beach expect to find rocky shelves along the foreshore.

Shark Reef Road leads back up island past the local airport. Pick up Fisherman Bay Road to reach the island’s commercial heart. Along the way take a side trip down Bayshore Road to reach the narrow neck of land which separates Fisherman Bay from the more open waters of San Juan Channel. The road continues along the spit past the picnic area at Otis Perkins Park to eventually end at private property. A number of services related to maritime recreation as well as public laundry and showers facilities, a bike rental shop, restaurants, a dive shop and a motel can be found at the settlement of Fisherman Bay. Just minutes further along the road at Lopez Village groceries, public showers, accommodations, restaurants and even a museum will be found.

Lopez Road will take campers back to Odlin County Park while those staying at Spencer Spit State Park can follow Hummel Lake Road to return to camp. Fishermen can cast in the lake for trout and bass.

The Gulf Islands: Saturna Island <<->> Trincomali Channel

Cycling

The Gulf Islands: Saturna Island

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Terrain: Fairly Flat

Traffic: Light

Season: Year Round

Distance: 34 km

Access: See Getting to The Gulf Islands.

Saturna Island is hard to get to and the locals are usually content to keep it that way. With just 350 permanent residents to service, ferry sailings to the island are extremely limited. From Vancouver it is impossible to reach the morning sailing out of Tswwaasen by bus on any day except Saturday. Typically the second and last sailing occurs in the early evening which means visitors will arrive on Saturna at dusk or after dark with just enough time check-in. Since the ordeal is further complicated by stops at other islands and usually one transfer along the way, a trip to Saturna Island usually takes about three hours.

On a Friday for instance visitors could board the 6:30 PM ferry, arriving at around nine o’clock. They could then spend a full two days cycling and hiking then leave on the four o’clock boat on Sunday, arriving back in Tswwaasen by 7 PM. Due to the oddball schedule a simple day trip is out of the question.

The best way to reach Saturna Island is from one of the other Gulf Islands in the context of a longer, multi-day exploration of the archipelago. Visit Saturna last, then, after a day or two of exploration, return to the city on an early-morning run midweek or the late-afternoon one on the weekend. At times it may be practical to hop from one of the other Gulf Islands to Swartz Bay near Victoria then scoot over to Saturna.

Shuttle at Sunset: A flotilla of ferries big and small weaves the communities of Gulf Islands into the larger fabric of the province.

Finding a place to put up for the night is likewise complicated by Saturna Island’s overprotective populace. In spite of the fact that the provincial government ministry responsible for parks has long sought to open up its holdings at Winter Cove to camping, fierce local opposition has thus far prevented any such action. And while residents have valid concerns regarding forest fires or way-of-life the less patient among the recreating public sometimes chalk their motives up to mere selfishness. Certainly the self-interest of lodge and B & B owners is well-served by disallowing camping island-wide. A smaller, monied class of tourist is attracted while the budget traveller is discouraged from visiting Saturna by a lack of services. Parks, ferry deficits and infrastructure are all covered by general revenue however, so the island does not belong just to the Islanders. Currently there is no camping whatsoever on the island.

In spite of these controversies and hardships Saturna Island is well worth a visit, not least because the seasonal invasion of visitors that plagues other islands is noticeably absent in this out-of-the-way corner of the gulf.

The price of solitude may come higher but includes a shower. Reservations are a must as Saturna Island boasts just two lodges and a handful of B & Bs and becoming stranded during high season is a real possibility. Most of the B & Bs are located near the ferry terminal in the vicinity of Lyall Harbor, an obvious choice if arriving in the evening.

Saturna can be enjoyed by peddle, paddle and walking shoes.

Progress, in the form of Saturna Lodge, blasted its way onto the accommodation scene late last century. Not only does the luxury resort offer all of the usual facilities, it includes development of strata title condominiums and comes attached to coastal British Columbia’s first vineyard and winery. 1999 saw production of the first local vintage. Needless to say local wine figures prominently in the lounge and dining room. The lodge, with just seven rooms, overlooks Boot Cove off Payne Road.

At the very opposite end of both the island and the political spectrum, East Point Resort features six rustic housekeeping cottages and could not be more in keeping with the island ethos. Located on secluded beachfront with views overlooking Tumbo Island, East Point Resort also offers boat rentals for those interested in exploring the offshore islands. Fishing and crabbing off East Point is reportedly the best in the Gulf Islands.

All politics aside, to begin exploring Saturna Island follow East Point Road from the ferry landing at Saturna Point past the government wharf and community hall. The latter structure, built in 1933, serves as locus of a farmers market every Saturday all summer long. The commercial heart of the island lies three kilometres from the ferry at the crossroads of East Point Road, Narvaez Bay Road and Harris Road. Funky Saturna General Store is the place to stock up on groceries, wine and other necessities before proceeding into the hinterland. From the crossroads here East Point Road drops down to Sunset Boulevard which in turn leads a short distance to a small gravel beach at the head of Lyall Harbour. Not ready for a dip? Proceed uphill again for another four clicks to where East Point road suddenly veers right. Veer left instead to reach the waterfront at Winter Cove Provincial Marine Park just a kilometre away.

Top up with water here and set aside at least an hour to loop past marshes and shoreline north to the open waters of Georgia Strait. Tidal currents through Boat Passage, as the narrow gap between Saturna and Samuel Island is called, can reach in excess of 7 knots or 13 k/mh. From shore the turgid waters of Boat Passage are a sight to behold. From the cockpit of a kayak they are best avoided altogether though experienced paddlers may enjoy the thrill of shooting the chute. In a pinch the rocky point overlooking the passage can be portaged over.

As mentioned, 91 hectare Winter Cove Provincial Marine Park was at one time destined to be the site of a wilderness walk-in campground though local opposition put that idea on hold. Now it is the site of the annual Canada Day Lamb Barbecue. Imagine the carcasses of freshly slaughtered baby lambs roasting on giant skewers around a huge bonfire and perhaps you can picture this traditional event. Some may question why such a hedonistic bacchanal can occur on public lands while something as innocuous camping cannot. Direct your questions to BC Parks.

Back on the saddle, East Point Road will now take you for a 10.5 kilometre sprint along the northern coast of Saturna Island. You can expect to pass numerous points of beach access. The waters adjacent to Russell Reef in particular are ideal for swimming. At times the forest canopy arches over the road while at others tremendous vistas of Georgia Strait and beyond are revealed.

While there may be little or no traffic always pedal in single file as you never know what may come barrelling around the next corner. Six clicks into this coastal byway the road passes through native reserve lands. Shortly thereafter the final four kilometres of road becomes Tumbo Channel Road.

A federal light station dominates East Point. The beacon was established in 1888 following a shipwreck two years previously on Boiling Reef. Surrounded by a Regional Park since 1996, the grounds are now open to the public though the lighthouse remains off-limits. The bluffs hereabouts offer unobstructed views of the American San Juan Islands and beyond to distant Mt. Baker. Closer to shore the reefs and kelp beds just off East Point are a pelagic bird watchers’ paradise. Tidal currents which rip eastward through Tumbo Channel on both the ebb and the flood churn up feed for a myriad of species.

East Point is also considered the Gulf Islands’ best site for land-based orca watching. The whales, usually members of the K pod, are said to pass by nearly every day from May through November in their never-ending quest for salmon.

At the foreshore expect to find pebble and shell beaches edged by wind and wave-whipped formations of sandstone and conglomerate. Photo opportunities abound of course as do chances to explore the watery microcosms left behind as the tide recedes. Sun supplicants no doubt can find a secluded pocket beach on which to worship. Cliffside Road offers an alternative route for the return journey. As the 2.5 km road begins looping back to re-join the main road look for a trailhead on the left side of the road. Just three kilometres round-trip, this amble follows the rocky bluffs above Fiddlers Cove. The arid heights are typical Gulf Islands: sun-burnt meadows dotted with gnarled arbutus. As the trail passes through Indian reserve lands contact the joint owners for permission to enter prior to visiting. The Tsawout band office can be reached at (250) 652-9101 while the Tseycum Indian Band phone number is (250) 656-0858. Please respect the land and the spirit of any posted signs.

To explore other corners of the island return to Saturna General Store. Narvaez Bay Road leads 8 km through the heart of Saturna Island to the waterway named for Captain Jose Maria Narvaez of the Spanish schooner Saturnina in 1791. The island of course took its name from the sailing vessel which Narvaez commanded. The foreshore is inaccessible though the 16 click ride passes through pastoral scenery bereft of vehicle traffic. Look for deer grazing at the side of the road particularly at dawn and dusk.

Harris Road follows the valley bottom between Mt. Fighter and Mt. Warburton Pike. Those in the mood for a thigh burner should ascend Saturna’s highest mountain (490 m) via Staples Road. Be prepared to dodge both deer and feral goats while navigating the narrow dirt track. The latter are descendants of livestock brought to the island by the earliest homesteaders. To reach the summit of Mt. Warburton Pike on foot, park bikes at the end of Harris Road. A couple of trails emanate from here.

The course to the left leads to the aforementioned peak with its crown of TV towers and beyond to Brown Ridge Nature Trail. Eight kilometres round-trip, the cliffside route reveals a panorama extending from the nearby Pender Islands and southward to include the San Juan Islands and distant peaks in Washington’s Olympic National Park. As this hike passes over private property respect the privilege or lose it. Three-kilometre Quarry Trail also begins at the end of Harris Road. Setting out on a powerline right-of-way the route soon veers off to the right, dropping down to an unsurfaced road. Follow the road right to reach pretty Saturna Beach at Thompson Park. A left turn here leads to Saturna Island Vineyards where tours are offered daily from 11:30 AM to 4 PM June through October.

Arrive early at the ferry dock in preparation for the return voyage. While doing so will ostensibly ensure your passage on the infrequent vessel, more importantly it is a handy excuse to pay homage at the pub next door. The Lighthouse Pub is an ideal vantage point from which to survey the coast for approaching mariners while sampling the indigenous service, suds and supper.

The Gulf Islands: Saltspring Island <<->> San Juan Islands - Lopez Island