Level: Moderate

Distance: 47 km

Time: 4+ Days

Terrain: Undulating

Map: 92 C/9 & 92 C/8

Season: Mar – Oct

Access: The West Coast Trail Express services the Juan de Fuca Marine Trail from Victoria. Visit the website for rates and schedules or call 250-477-8700 or 1-888-999-2288. Catch the West Coast Trail Express from in front of the bus terminal at 700 Douglas Street. Expect to reach the trailhead in the late afternoon. This shuttle service connects to the southern terminus of the West Coast Trail as well as any of four access points along the Juan de Fuca Trail. Reservations are required. See Getting to Tsawwaasen for logistics on reaching the provincial capital from downtown Vancouver.

The 707 hectare Juan de Fuca Marine Trail connects Botanical Beach Provincial Park in the north to China Beach Provincial Park 47 km to the south. The popularity and global renown of the nearby West Coast Trail made convincing argument for the preservation of other examples of the unique environment along Vancouver Island’s west coast. The Juan de Fuca Trail was officially commemorated in 1994 as a tribute to the Commonwealth Games held in Victoria that year. Creation of the trail would not have been possible without generous donations or exchanges of land from Western Forest Products and TimberWest and support from the Pacheenaht First Nation. As many as 100 local, primarily native, youths were engaged in the creation of the trail through a provincial government work experience program. Construction of the trail pumped $8½ million into the local economy. Time your visit to the Juan de Fuca Marine Trail to take advantage of the lowest possible tides. Not only will your progress along the beaches be enhanced, but innumerable natural phenomena become accessible when the tide drops below one metre.

Botanical Beach

The northern trailhead starts at the end of Cerantes Road, 2.5 km from the hotel and government wharf in Port Renfrew. Since we are following the trail in reverse, working through the easiest sections while our packs are heaviest and conditioning possibly not at its best, this hike starts at kilometre 47, counting down as we proceed. Be sure to check the notice board at the trailhead for up-to-the-minute trail condition reports as well as tide tables posted for the benefit of those who may have forgotten this essential information when preparing for the trip. Be sure to correct tide tables for daylight savings time where appropriate.

Botanical Beach was the site of a marine biology research station sponsored by the University of Minnesota from 1900 to 1906. The Juan de Fuca Marine Trail proper skips much of the rich intertidal zone at Botanical Beach. If arriving at the trailhead at low tide plan on spending some time exploring the tide pool-pocked reef and unique geology of the foreshore between Botany Bay and the start of the trail itself before setting out.

Gawking Gullivers: Three other-worldly creatures steal the sun, striking terror into the hearts of the Lilliputian community of a tide pool at Botanical Beach. Tiny fish dart for cover, hermit crabs duck into their borrowed hermitages while their less-armoured brethren scramble under rocks and plants until the towering menace retreats trailwards.

The coast parallels a fault line along the colliding North American and Juan de Fuca Plates. As a consequence, much of the foreshore is an odd mixture of volcanic and metamorphosed sedimentary rocks. At the far eastern end of the Botanical Beach low tide reveals three sea caves. Keen eyes may discern even keener eyes gazing back from a giant eagle nest nestled atop an ancient spruce. Though camping is actually frowned upon here, this secluded corner would be an ideal spot to pitch a tent if arriving later than anticipated. The site boasts both water and driftwood though building a fire too early is sure to catch the keenest eyes of all: those of the park ranger.

Botanical Beach to Parkinson Creek 10 km

The first 10 kilometres of the Juan de Fuca Marine Trail follow a route through climax forest of mixed cedar and hemlock just beyond a barrier of thick salal that rims the rocky shore. Though sometimes cursed by coastal hikers, this salal and other shoreline vegetation provides the important function of “pruning” the gusting wind blowing in from the ocean, thereby protecting the forest which rises behind it. Numerous breaches in this cover provide ample access to the unusual geology of the coast all the way to Providence Cove. The trail is generally easy with many boardwalk sections during the first 4 km. Past Tom Baird Creek watch for sea lions basking on the rocks. Anticipate many muddy sections as you climb up towards Soule Creek [km 43.]

Tiny, well-protected Providence Cove was once an important seasonal village for the ancestors of the Pacheenaht nation. Camping and fires are prohibited at the steep, pebble beach now but forest campsites, bear caches and pit toilets will be found ½ km further on at Payzant Creek [km 40.] Situated high above the stream, the site is accentuated by a delightful waterfall. Tent pads are poorly engineered, however, and fill up with rain water during even moderate sprinkles. There is no direct beach access here.

Except at high tide, less than a kilometre from the bridge at Payzant Creek, you’ll have an opportunity to leave the forest and explore along the expansive intertidal shelf for nearly one and half clicks. Backtracking will be necessary to regain the trail as there is no access at the eastern end.

At Parkinson Creek [km 37.2] there are no camping facilities but you will find a parking lot, pit toilets and an information board. Minute Creek Forest Service Road provides access through the logging clearcuts from Highway 14, 3.8 km away.

You’ll also find very extraordinary seal caves just west of the mouth of Parkinson Creek. The caves are only accessible from the beach during the lowest of tides. Watch for a side trail near the Parkinson Creek trailhead that leads down to a viewpoint. From the bluff peer back west to glimpse the well-concealed seal nursery.

Parkinson Creek to Sombrio Beach 9 km

Push for Kuitshie Creek 4 km further on before camping for the night. In addition to forest campsites and pit toilets the secluded beach is an ideal place from which to enjoy the long, slow evenings of early summer. Along the way hikers are periodically treated to buena vista’s from the bluffs overlooking Juan de Fuca Strait. Such views must be paid for however and the trail exacts its toll in the form of deep ravines, exposed roots, mud holes, deadfalls and numerous stairs to be overcome. As contracted staff spend an inordinate amount of time chasing down delinquent hikers, trail maintenance suffers. Hikers on the other hand are often loathe to pay for such poorly maintained trails. Much of the Juan de Fuca Marine Trail is reminiscent of the West Coast Trail of yesteryear: knee-deep mud and ankle-busting roots that slow progress down to a crawl.

Bushwhacker Blues: Exposed roots, pools of mud, deadfalls and impenetrable salal challenge every step along the Juan de Fuca Marine Trail. Since maintenance contracts are in part tied to user fees, contract holders spend an inordinate amount of time tracking down delinquent campers, much to the detriment of trail maintenance. As one weary hiker put it: “I don’t really feel very good about paying with the trail in such bad condition.” Interestingly, while day-use areas tend to be very well-maintained, day users pay nothing for the facilities.

Just a kilometre before Kuitshie Creek the trail winds past a small grove of ancient cedars that the loggers missed.

The next 5 kilometres to Sombrio Beach through a swath of regenerated second growth are uneventful except for a camping spot at Little Kuitshie Creek [km 33] cut from an impenetrable wall of salal. Expect the usual amenities. Tent sites are gravel-topped and drain well.

Slightly more than a kilometre beyond Little Kuitshie Creek you’ll encounter a suspension bridge across the ravine at Minute Creek. From here the closest approach to Sombrio Beach is just 2 clicks away. The proximity of logging clearcuts can be unsightly at times. Of more concern to hikers, these open gashes in the forest promote the proliferation of berries which can support an inordinate numbers of bears. Of the three coastal hiking routes detailed in this book the Juan de Fuca Marine Trail boasts the largest concentrations of these foraging omnivores. Failure to practice no-trace camping or hang food

The expansive foreshore of Sombrio Beach is accessible more than two kilometres before reaching the Sombrio River when tides are running low. Otherwise stay with trail, a more circuitous route, until reaching the suspension bridge. Cliffs preclude foreshore navigation when the flood reaches its peak. Those taking the boulder-strewn beach route however will be rewarded with two cliff-hanging waterfalls and, at Sombrio’s western end, fossil beds richly-endowed with all manner of shellfish: snails, clams, dentalia and mussels.

A sturdy walking stick can save a lot of grief whenever traipsing across the rocky foreshore with heavy backpacks. Seaweed slick rocks have broken many a wrist or forearm. Even away from the beach the extra stability of a “third leg” will prove its usefulness time and again. Though any stick will do, a collapsible monopod-style walking stick or ski pole can be handy when climbing ladders or steep trails. Ski poles, however, can be slippery on rocks.

Sombrio Beach 2 km

Expect company at Sombrio Beach [km 29.] The access road, though unsurfaced, is short and well-marked with the gorgeous beaches attracting surfers, picnicking families and the overnight car-camping crowd. There are, however, numerous squeaky, wooden tent pads in the vicinity of the river mouth. Towards the eastern half more secluded spots for beach camping can be found.

Little actual sand will be found along Sombrio’s white crescent. Starting at the headland in the west, the beach is comprised of basketball-sized boulders that become progressively smaller as one proceeds eastward. Around the river the rocks have been reduced to the size and shape of sun-bleached baseballs. Small pebbles and sand comprise the foreshore at the headland on the opposite end. At low tide, note the sea caves too at the base of the eastern cliffs.

Whenever following a route along the beach scan the sea from time to time looking for resident orcas and Gray whales. Each spring 18,000 migrating Gray whales pass by on their way to the Bering Sea from Baja, Mexico. As you rest on a driftwood log gaze across Juan de Fuca Strait to Neah Bay on Washington’s Olympic Peninsula and contemplate the revival of coastal whaling that occurred there in 1999. Were the Native American whalers simply reasserting a traditional right? Was the slaughter necessary for the band to earn back the self-esteem that had been robbed from them as their culture collapsed? Or was it just an ill-thought out act of brutality by a mob of celebrity mongerers?

Sombrio Beach to Chin [Zin] Beach 6 km

The headland at the far end of the Sombrio Beach is impassible. To regain the main trail look for bright orange fish floats hanging in the trees. Most beach egress points along the Juan de Fuca Marine Trail have been marked this way. As you climb up the main trail from Sombrio Beach to the cliff top you may realize that you’re leaving the easiest hiking behind. The next 18 km are particularly demanding as the steep terrain is deeply fissured from innumerable creeks that tumble across the Juan de Fuca Marine Trail from the hills above. On the other hand you’ll be passing through exquisite examples of coastal temperate rain forest. After passing Sombrio viewpoint drop your packs and explore the side trail overlooking a shelf where sea lions enjoy basking in the sun.

The main trail next climbs inland eventually following a logging road before plunging down a series of switchbacks to the suspension bridge across Loss Creek Canyon. Once across, the steep terrain with many switchbacks continues for four more kilometres, finally dumping hikers out on to the beach where a new challenge awaits.

The headland just a kilometre further on is impassible at high and even moderately low tides. If the moon is on your side you may wish to undertake a side trip before rounding the headland. During times of extremely low tide, those below one metre, an arch and several sea caves reveal themselves near the western end of Chin Beach. Explore but dally not if you want to continue on to Chin Creek for beach camping at its best. Luckily, an alternative forest route exists for bypassing this barrier. From here to Bear Beach 12 km away there are very few other camping opportunities.

A small grove of giant cedars is accessible via a side trail that leaves Chin Beach just east of the outhouses. It should take 35 minutes unencumbered with packs to reach the ancient big trees. A further 15 minutes will take you to Highway 14.

Chin Beach to Bear Beach 12 km

At the east end of Chin Beach too progress may be impeded by excessively high tides and no alternative exists other than staying in touch with the moon’s influences and planning accordingly. The trail to Bear Beach is a demanding slog over very uneven terrain. Thankfully backpacks should be considerably lighter than when you first started out. The trail climbs steeply up to an emergency shelter perched at the top of the bluff. This cliff top condo is a great place to dry out during times of inclement weather. If you choose to tuck in here for the night the mice who got there first should quickly convince you that tenting out is infinitely preferable. The route follows the bluff high above the beach, cutting down then up again across many ravines and canyons through mature stands of second growth timber. From Magdalena Point, just past Newmarch Creek at the 14 km post, enjoy sweeping views of the Strait of Juan de Fuca before heading back into the forest, now a surviving stand of old-growth. Imagine what human events were transpiring when these giant cedars were just seedlings. The trail rises steeply for a kilometre now before plunging an equal distance back down towards the seashore. A side trail at Hoard Creek reveals a tiny secluded beach. One and a half kilometres further on, where you and Ledingham Creek both tumble out of the forest on to Bear Beach, notice Mushroom Rock, a geological anomaly more reminiscent of Wile E. Coyote country than coastal British Columbia. A kilometre further along the beach, just before reaching Clinch Creek, scraps of a shipwreck litter the foreshore. Depending on the tide, Bear Beach may be divided by an impassible headland just west of a Rosemond Creek. Beach campsites with pit toilets have been set up on either side of the barrier for those who are required to wait overnight for more favourable conditions. Wading around the sheer cliff walls is possible during all but the highest tides, those above three metres. If tempted to risk the crossing, attempt it only during relatively calm seas. Use a walking stick for stability and don’t even dream of wading barefoot. Keep in mind too, that massive rogue waves, created far out in the Pacific, can crash on the beaches along Vancouver Island’s west coast unexpectedly at any time, sweeping the inattentive far out to sea.

Bear Beach to China Beach 9 km

Beneath the cliffs of the east end of Bear Beach notice the wave-sculpted arch. Back track to the last orange marker and climb a unique set of stairs up the headland east of Bear Beach before encountering the rugged terrain once again. Magnificent views from the cliff tops above the beach are more than enough compensation for the steep gorges which must be overcome. Just 6 km on you’ll reach sandy Mystic Beach, an inviting place to camp if waiting for transportation pick up the next day. The end of the trail at China Beach is just 2 km away! Choose your real estate early if you want to pre-empt one of the choicer spots. Mystic Beach can get crowded on blue sky weekends. While hanging out there is plenty to explore. Stretching from a sea worn arch of sandstone at the far west end this delightful beach continues eastward for less than a kilometre past a small waterfall to the cliffs of San Simon Point. As one might expect, these features are accessible at low tide only. The trail rises steeply from Mystic Beach following a route across San Simon Point and one final suspension bridge before reaching the parking lot at popular China Beach.

Trail’s End: China Beach

As with Botanical Beach at the north end of the trail, the southern trailhead too is restricted to day use only. At the far western end of China Beach during tides of 2½ metres and lower, an attractive waterfall and pool are revealed where Pete Wolf Creek pours on to the beach. If time allows continue exploring the rocky shore from China Beach 2.2 km to Jordan River before your ride arrives. The shuttle is scheduled to leave Port Renfrew at 3:30 PM but is notoriously late. Wait for your pick up from the upper parking lot.

Nicomen Lake <<->> Keats Island

Level: Moderate

Distance: 42 km o/w

Time: 4 Days Elev Change: 1280 m

Season: July -Sept

Map: Manning Park 92H/2

Access: See Getting to Manning Park

Backpacking in British Columbia has its ups and downs. Usually, however, there seems to be a little too much of the former.

Nicomen Lake offers newcomers to the sport a welcomed respite. Though long enough at 42 km to present a challenge, the choicest route is predominantly downhill.

The trailhead starts from the parking lot below Blackwall Peak where chubby marmots will doubtless be begging for handouts. From Manning Park Lodge it will be necessary to cross busy Highway 3, heading left on the parallel access road. Find a safe place to hitchhike the 15 km up to the top of the dusty access road.

Buckhorn Birds Beg Bagles: A frisky Whisky-Jack spirits lunch away from one unhappy camper. AKA Canada Jay, Grey Jay and “Camp Robber,” the Whisky-Jack amazingly has never developed a fear of humans and will greet hikers, demanding a hand-out, whenever we trespass in their high elevation domain.

Heather Trail starts from an elevation of 1920 metres at the Blackwall Peak parking lot. Hikers will immediately begin dropping into sub-alpine meadows. Soon the path, actually an old fire access road, will level out. By the time you reach Buckhorn camp, just five clicks from the start, you will be gaining altitude again. Buckhorn is the perfect place to stop for lunch if you got an early start or to set up camp if rushing out after work. Expect company at meal time, since whisky-jacks here have long since grown accustomed to begging handouts from hikers. Otherwise known as grey jays, these bold creatures will make short work of any rations left unattended.

Since many day trippers usually turn back at Buckhorn one can expect more solitude from this point on. Expect to do some puffing too since the slope from here is decidedly up for the next five km. This section of trail passes through the site of an old forest fire. Gladly, the forest is slowly reclaiming its own.

A Family of Peaks

At click seven the Bonnivier Trail breaks off to the right, continuing another 22 km towards the park’s East Gate. Continue upwards and onwards however, towards the foot of First Brother Mountain. The main trail levels out at this point, skirting the shoulders of Second and Third Brother Mountains, but the truly gung ho may want to shed their backpacks and race to the summit. While a relatively easy climb, leave plenty of time to reach Kicking Horse Camp 3½ km further along.

With ample water, a toilet and even a rustic shelter, Kicking Horse is an ideal spot to camp on the first day out. Building campfires in the fragile sub-alpine is not only considered bad form, it is prohibited. Since most hikers, constrained by the demands of real life, will turn back at Kicking Horse the trail narrows somewhat from this point on. While the scenery has been nothing short of magnificent thus far, the best is yet to come.

The next 7½ km is comprised of gently rolling meadows splashed with every imaginable shade of purple, red, white, yellow, blue and green. Since human traffic is limited hikers can expect to encounter mule deer grazing against a backdrop of distant rugged peaks on all sides. You will be gradually losing altitude all day until reaching the razor-edged summit of Nicomen Ridge. From here the trail plunges steeply down a series of switchbacks for two kilometres to the edge of the blue jewel of Nicomen Lake.

Fancy Stance: Hoping for a career in modelling, this chubby buddy poses for the camera atop Blackwall Peak. A colony of hoary marmots greets visitors throughout the summer, retiring to their snug, subterranean city for the ski season.

Even with restraint your descent will be fast. Loose rock presents considerable hazard here so caution should be exercised at all times. Avoid taking short-cuts between the switchbacks as this will needlessly erode already unstable slopes.

Nicomen Lake is perfectly suited for a second night’s stopover. Rustic camping areas can be found at several points along the lake. Rock slides at the foot of Nicomen Ridge are an excellent place to observe the communal activities of large colonies of hoary marmots and pikas, small relatives of the Energizer Bunny that look like rats with big ears, bulbous eyes and furry tails. On one occasion we even spotted a wolverine at relatively close range. Infamous for their ferocity, sighting one of these creatures is sure to send shivers. If you haven’t been toting a collapsable fly rod you will now wish you had. Nicomen Lake is home to thousands of small but voracious mountain cutthroat trout. Most are of the catch and release variety but consult Fish and Wildlife Branch regulations for exact details on size and catch limits.

Down, Down, Down…

From Nicomen Lake you will begin losing altitude at a much faster pace. During the next 11 km sub-alpine will quickly give way to interior dry belt forest of pine, fir, spruce and hemlock. On the forest floor expect to find an inordinate variety of unusual moulds and fungi. Be sure to pack ample water since supplies are limited along this section of trail.

Camping on the third and final night is best at the Grainger Creek – Hope Pass Trail junction. Though rustic, this site is equipped with a fire grate and outhouse.

Those with time on their hands may want to explore, unencumbered, along the Hope Pass Trail, a circuitous route horse riders often use to reach Nicomen Lake.

The final leg of this four day route is a mere 8 km, largely downhill that ends at Cayuse Flats on highway 3 near the West Gate of Manning Park. To flag down the bus, look for a section of road with wide shoulders and ample visibility near this day use area. Drivers will only stop if safe to do so. The Greyhound should pass by between 12:30 PM and 1:00 PM each day.

Stein Valley Mini-Traverse <<->> Juan De Fuca Marine Trail

Level: Moderate

Distance: 29.3 km

Time: 2 – 4 days

Elevation Change: 537 m

Map: 92 I/5

Season: Mar to Oct

Access: Greyhound services Lytton, the nearest community to the Stein Valley trailhead, twice daily. [See <http://www.car-free.ca/miscellaneous/appendix/getting-to-hope-&-lytton.html>Getting to Hope & Lytton. ] As no taxi or other public transportation services exist it will be necessary to arrange for a lift 6.8 km to the trailhead through the Lytton & District Chamber of Commerce. See below for details. If arriving in Lytton without making prior arrangements negotiating with local residents on the main street is also effective and should cost between $10-25 each way. Be sure to arrange for a pick up at the end of your trip as well. Traffic is very limited along the access road so hitchhiking is not a particularly viable alternative. The ferry across the Fraser River, a unique, water-powered craft, does not operate during the heaviest days of spring runoff. If planning to go to the Stein at any time from May through early July check with travel information in Lytton or contact the department of highways to ensure that the ferry is indeed operating.

Assuming you arrived in Lytton on the morning bus you’ll likely reach the trailhead in the early afternoon, too early to set up camp. Those arriving later will find excellent camping at the trailhead on Van Winkle Flats. Water is 300 metres down the main trail at Stryen Creek but an outhouse, large fire pit and grassy, open terrain characteristic of the interior dry belt combine to make for an ideal place from which to get an early morning start. As the Stein River itself can be heavily laden with glacial till, topping up with water from clear-running side creeks whenever possible is advisable.

Trailhead to Devil’s Staircase: 5.3 km

Just beyond Stryen Creek you’ll encounter the first “power spot,” a granite outcropping where puberty rituals were once commonplace. Imagine nearly naked young Nlaka’pamux children left here in the dark, in the cold, often alone, filled with fear and awe and hunger until in a waking dream they encountered their personal spirits. The bizarre creatures daubed in scarlet onto the cliff face are the representations of those visions, the spirits which would guide them and fortify them for the rest of their lives. Their transition to adulthood complete, these young native people were free to return to their tribe accompanied by a newfound strength and purpose.

The trail continues over fairly even terrain for the next 5 km before reaching the ominously named Devil’s Staircase. The forest cover of the lower canyon is refreshingly different for those used to the lush vegetation of coastal British Columbia. Here ponderous ponderosa pine with striking jigsaw-puzzle bark and lodgepole pine predominate in the arid, rocky terrain. There is little understory vegetation and lichens cling to every surface. The luminous yellow wolf lichen is particularly conspicuous, a warning to hungry ungulates to stay clear. Morels, gigantic shaggy manes and pine mushrooms pop up following the autumn rains. All are easily recognizable and delicious and the latter matsutake in particular are harvested by local natives for shipment to Japan where they may fetch $30 – $100 or more per mushroom in the supermarkets. In late summer and fall look for spawning salmon whenever the trail veers near the river bank. Pink, coho and chinook salmon all fight for spawning sites in the gravel of the Stein River with odd-numbered years seeing the heaviest returns of spawning pinks. By November most will have been reduced to spent carcasses, scant pickings for scavenging ravens, marten and bear. At the foot of the Devil’s Staircase a side trail leads to a pleasantly situated campsite. Mount the “stairs” instead and zigzag up to the 400 metre mark where the trail crosses a wide scree slope then descends to the valley bottom again before repeating the manoeuvre up and over rocky talus one more time. While carefully picking your way over these rocky slides note the relatively large, well-formed crystals of mica and quartz. This one kilometre section of trail is by far the most difficult though very few should find it taxing in the extreme. At the foot of the second talus slope a series of pictographs can be found on the cliff faces some 100 metres downstream.

The main route continues upstream through a small cedar grove, winding along the river until the 8.3 km mark where you’ll encounter a teepee on the benchland above the river. Innumerable tent sites, a pit toilet and bear-proof food locker juxtaposed against steep cliffs towering overhead on the other side of the river completes the picture. The teepee stands as a monument to the protest rallies throughout the Stein Valley in the late 1980s during the campaign to save the Stein Valley from certain annihilation at the hands of the logging interests. No need to be beguiled by this attractive site however as excellent camping can be found in many places from here to Cable Crossing. Pause a moment at Teaspoon Creek 1.2 km further on to contemplate the so-called “culturally modified trees” that abound in the large cedar grove here. During the dog days of summer the cool darkness here will be most welcome.

Devil’s Staircase to Buried Treasure: 5.5 km

Keep an eye open for the glint of buried treasure as you cover the next 1.2 km to Earl’s Cabin. Once the home of trapper Fred Earl, the original cabin was abandoned when Earl went off to fight for God and country during World War I. Regrettably, Earl never returned leaving behind rumours of a $12,000 cache of gold which he had reportedly panned from the creek that bears his name. The cabin which occupies the site at present is a reconstruction. The forest hereabouts was opened up considerably during the forest fire of 1994 as Earl’s cabin became ground zero in the battle against the blaze. A rough helicopter landing pad and base camp were then hewn from the forest. The understory vegetation has recovered though the scorched bark of larger trees hereabouts should provide a sober reminder to keep fires small when you must keep them at all.

Earl’s Cabin to Cable Crossing: 2.4 km

The main trail follows Earl Creek upstream to a small bridge before returning to the banks of the Stein River. The next 1.3 km are easy going, leading to a point where the trail is squeezed between rocky bluffs and the cascading river itself. Though in recent history some sections of the cliff have collapsed, the rest of the face is alive with surreal creatures daubed in haematite-based pigments. Continuing on for another 15 minutes or so you will come to a large forest campsite complete with the usual amenities. The cable car, 13.2 km from the trailhead, is nearby. Another trapper’s cabin will be found about 300 metres beyond the campsite on the same side of the river. This cabin was built in 1953 by Adam Klein who began trapping in the area some 28 years earlier after running away from home at the age of 18.

If you prefer a more open setting to camp in, cross the river one at a time on the rickety cable car that dates from 1986 when the Western Canada Wilderness Committee sought to encourage recreation in the area as a way of building support against planned logging. Be sure to unhook the cable car from the landing when finished so other hikers can also cross here. Continue upstream another few minutes along the foot of a field of huge boulders. After spring runoff a large island in the centre of the river makes an ideal site for camping under the stars. To reach the island it may be necessary to get your feet wet crossing a flood channel. Camping here is not recommended during the spring or during periods of high rainfall.

Cable Crossing to Ponderosa Shelter: 7.8 km

From Cable Crossing the dry, arid benchlands give way to the interior Douglas fir zone. Huge cottonwoods, aspen and poplar are common along the river’s edge while the underbrush has suddenly become thick, sometimes impenetrable. Due to reduced traffic and abundant vegetation the trail narrows considerably and can be quite overgrown and marshy in the spring. The 7.8 km to Ponderosa Shelter can be undertaken as an out and back day trip with limited gear or, for those with time on their hands, a camping destination in itself. On the way to Ponderosa Shelter you’ll cross a number of creeks in quick succession. The first suitable campsite is at Waterfall Creek. Just 400 metres beyond note the beaver pond from which you’ll soon climb above the valley bottom. The trail skirts the edge of a succession of “granite gardens” before returning to the flood plains below. Just 20 minutes further on take the left fork of the trail to reach Ponderosa Shelter, an attractive wilderness campsite complete with dilapidated wooden structure.

Most weekend warriors never tread beyond Ponderosa Shelter though the description continues to Cottonwood Creek 8.3 km away through similar, mid-valley, terrain. Returning to the trailhead 21 km away is best done over two days with the bulk of the distance being accomplished on the first day. The remainder can be undertaken prior to making a rendezvous with your prearranged shuttle.

Ponderosa Shelter to Cottonwood Cr: 8.3 km

Those continuing deeper into the valley will encounter the remains of a log lean-to 400 metres beyond Ponderosa Shelter. The next kilometre brings welcomed if brief respite from the marsh and mosquitoes as the forest opens up somewhat before reverting to wetlands once again. Note in passing that many of the red cedars here too bear the marks of fibre harvesting dating to pre-European times. At about the halfway point between Ponderosa Shelter and Cottonwood Creek climb the bluffs for a panorama of the mid-valley. From here swamp gives way to open forest once again all the way to Burnt Cabin Creek where you’ll find a rustic campsite. Continuing on to Cottonwood Creek, the trail follows the river through the flood plains once more, passing through stands of ancient cottonwood then over a boulder garden just one kilometre from the campsite. Attractive Cottonwood Falls is just a few minutes upstream from the camp.

The other campsite near Cottonwood Creek has been set aside as a Youth Rediscovery camp, part of a program aimed at putting native youths in touch with their heritage.

One of the back doors on the Stein Valley, Blowdown Pass, can be reached from Cottonwood Creek campsite. Follow the Blowdown Pass Trail for about half an hour to reach a viewpoint well above the valley bottom. Hiking the 33 km through to Duffy Lake Road is certainly possible though such an uphill undertaking is complicated by a complete lack of public transportation alternatives between Pemberton and Lillooet. Hitchhiking remains viable along this paved wilderness highway for the truly determined. Rather than climbing out of the Stein Valley, follow the route in reverse instead, starting high near Duffy Lake and working down from Blowdown Pass to Cottonwood Creek following the Stein to the trailhead at Van Dyke Flats. The alpine scenery is certainly worth the extra hassle involved. This mini-traverse is detailed below.

Stein River Valley Introduction <<->> Stein Valley Mini-Traverse

The Hidden Place it was called and hidden it remained for some 7000 years. To the Nlaka’pamux Indians who lived at its mouth it was a mystical valley, at once the abode of spirits and the provider of sustenance.

Early European explorers corrupted its Nlaka’pamux name to a more pronounceable Styne. The Hidden Place had been found. Yet as time and new traditions Anglicized its name to Stein, the valley remained largely untouched by the wanton greed that had begun to lay waste to other nearby wildernesses piece by piece. Geography and a marginal endowment of industrial resources have served the spirits of the Stein well. While every neighbouring watershed has endured the brutality of chainsaw and bulldozer the Stein remains today much the same as the Hidden Place that has long provided medicine and meals for the Nlaka’pamux.

Island in a Sea of Stumps

Often called an island in a sea of stumps, the Stein is characterized by rugged, steep-sided slopes, U-shaped from wave upon wave of glaciation The valley bottom is surprisingly flat with a nearly level pitch, making it ideal for hiking and backpacking. Fully six of the 12 biogeoclimatic zones found in B.C. are represented in the Stein watershed. Such diversity supports mountain goats, black bears, mule deer, moose, wolverine, coyote, marten, mink and beaver and provides the grizzly bear with its last refuge in the southwest corner of the province.

Such diversity moreover has traditionally provided the Nlaka’pamux with an abundance of fresh green shoots, berries, roots, tubers, meat and fish.

More than a larder, the Hidden Place is the last refuge of a pantheon of spirits who once guided all aspects of Nlaka’pamux civilization. The imprint of the gods is felt at every step along the river. Numerous “power spots” – high ledges, caves, natural grottos – dot the landscape, bearing yet the visions of dreamers and shamans in the form of wondrous rock paintings centuries old.

Of some 36 know heritage sites in the Stein, with as many more at its mouth, 14 have been daubed with the blood-red representations of mystical events. Often pictured on the rocky tableaux are images of guardian spirits who revealed themselves to native youths during solitary coming-of-age rituals.

The modern day hiker encountering these images can sometimes sense the true power and force of mystic imagination.

Hands Off

It should go without saying that these pictographs are treasures of the Nlaka’pamux and should be accorded all due respect. To mar, deface, or otherwise despoil these treasures is not only rude and ignorant, it is highly illegal. Since the skin contains oils and acids even lightly touching them can cause irreparable damage. Other vestiges of the Nlaka’pamux linger in the Stein. At its confluence with the Fraser where the Indians wintered in gigantic pithouses can still be found the shallow depressions of their winter storehouses. In the same area a boulder carved with petroglyphs can also be beheld. Upstream at Stryen, Teaspoon and Earl Creeks hikers will encounter numerous cedar trees with large, rectangular strips of bark missing. Somewhat unromantically labelled culturally modified trees (CMT’s) by the archaeological community, these small groves of cedars were an important source of fibre for clothing, cord, roofing, insulation, basketry and even diapers. So rare and important in fact was cedar bark that the Nlaka’pamux were willing to walk some 22 km round trip to collect it.

Rough hack marks at the top and bottom of each bare patch, the work of sharp-edged stones, would date the harvest to before the appearance of Europeans with their high tech implements of steel. Only small patches of bark were removed to allow for the survival of the relatively rare cedar trees. That they continue to live today, attests to the truly conservationist nature of the Nlaka’pamux. The Stein watershed was formally declared Stein Valley Nlaka’pamux Heritage Park on November 23, 1995 following a hard-fought 20-year battle to protect the wilderness, historical and anthropological features of the region from industrial development. The park is jointly managed by the provincial government and the Lytton Indian Band.

Stein Traverse

The route as described through the lower canyon is part of a longer trail known variously as the Stein Traverse or the Stein River Heritage Trail. The 75 km traverse starts at the end of a remote four-wheel-drive road in the alpine and is not readily accessible via public transportation. The lower canyon of the Stein where the traverse ends is accessible however, leading to a wilderness area of striking diversity and beauty. The route detailed below takes a minimum of four days, including travel time, though the Stein Valley can be enjoyed as a simple overnighter. Alternately, many more days could easily be spent exploring this fascinating watershed.

With accessibility problems and requiring experience and route finding skills well beyond the scope of this book, the demanding Stein Traverse has not been included. The 51 km Mini-Traverse on the other hand follows a well-marked trail from Blowdown Pass to the headwaters of Cottonwood Creek then on down to the Stein River itself, following the lower canyon route described below in reverse.

Sunshine Coast Trail-Stage 5: Lois Dam to Saltery Bay <<->> Stein River Valley - Stein Lower Canyon to Mid-Valley

Level: Difficult

Distance: 42 km

Time: 3-4 days

Season: June – Oct

Elevation Change: 1280 m

Access: See Getting to the Sunshine Coast Trail

This is the final section of the Sunshine Coast Trail in more ways than one. Much of the route was little more than a sketch on a map until the summer of 1998 when it was roughed out in its entirety. And rough it is though volunteers from the Powell River Parks & Wilderness Society continue to upgrade every part of the trail whenever weather and time permits. The group deserves our applause and admiration first and foremost for having the vision to even conceive of such an undertaking. One thing which sets this project apart is the willingness of PRPAWS to eschew bureaucracy and get on with the project even when confronted with jurisdictional arcania that could easily have stalled similar projects for decades. The thousands of hours of hard labour donated to the Sunshine Coast Trail have literally put Powell River on the map.

From the campground on Lois River the trail leads upstream for a kilometre to the dam [km 133] then continues along the eastern shore of Lois Lake for 6.8 kilometres to a primitive lakeside campsite. On the way at km 136 you’ll pass the start of the Powell Forest Canoe Route at a campsite operated by the British Columbia Forest Service. Picnic tables and outhouses comprise the amenities here. Once the trail leaves the lakeside expect to gain altitude, slowly a first then more steeply as the route switches back and forth up 10 kilometres to the tiny Elephant Lakes. There are no amenities to speak of but camping is permitted at the lakes which are situated more or less at the halfway point on this last stage of the trail.

The next campsite is 8.5 kilometres away atop Mt. Troubridge [km 157.2], a demanding uphill slog that reaches an altitude of 1280 metres. On the way up the footpath passes through magnificent stands of ancient Douglas fir and yellow cedar. What goes up must come down however and the knee-burning descent to the end of the trail at Saltery Bay, 17.8 kilometres away, should take similar time and effort. On the way you’ll pass a campsite at Rainy Day Lake [km 166.4.] Breaking the descent into two may be well-advised depending on your transportation arrangements. Those returning to Vancouver will want to catch the bus on board the ferry from Saltery Bay to Earls Cove.

Sunshine Coast Trail-Stage 4: Fiddlehead Farm to Lois River <<->> Stein River Valley Introduction

Level: Demanding

Distance: 46.6 km

Time: 3-5 days

Elevation Change: 1067 m

Season: June – Oct

Access: See Getting to the Sunshine Coast Trail

Having come this far, the summit of Tin Hat Mountain is an option which should not be missed. Those on a time budget can scale the peak as an out and back overnighter from Fiddlehead Farm. Only those well-equipped and absolutely sure of their abilities should consider undertaking the climb to 1067 metres as a day trip. If pushing on down the Sunshine Coast Trail then consider the panorama from the top of Tin Hat as just a side trip on the long trek southwards. The turn off to the mountain is just over six clicks from the hostel. Leave backpacks securely behind at the crossroads to make the 1.3 km climb unencumbered. Many backpacks have detachable day packs or fanny packs for carrying food, first-aid kit and all-weather clothing in just this kind of situation. From the top the panorama stretches for a full 360 degrees to embrace over 30 Lakes, the Rainbow Range to the north and, to the north-east the South Powell Divide. Be sure to complete the ascent in a timely fashion as Spring Lake, a suitable, if undeveloped site to put up for the night, lies an additional six clicks from the detour. Much of the route cuts through virgin groves of forest that the loggers bypassed. A number of abandoned lumber camps will be encountered on the way to Goat Lake Road. Having flourished a century or more ago most have been reduced to mouldering ruins largely reclaimed by the forest they set out to topple.

From Spring Lake a little-used logging spur leads two kilometres to Lewis Lake where you’ll find a real campsite complete with outhouse.

Home on the Range

The next morning embark on a track along the crest of the Smith Range which divides the lakes arrayed along the first half of the Powell Forest Canoe Route from Haslam Lake which supplies Powell River with its drinking water. A number of suitable tent sites will be found in the vicinity of March Lake 7 km beyond Spring Lake but push on another six clicks to reach Coyote Lake before dark to slice the remainder of this stage in half. The terrain as far as March Lake is relatively flat though expect to be slowed by deadfalls as these sections are infrequently travelled and maintained. Save time for refreshment with an icy dip in Elk Lake before proceeding to the bluffs in the vicinity of Granite Lake. Patches of old-growth around Coyote Lake will provide welcomed relief from the late afternoon sun.

Trail Markers along the Sunshine Coast Trail. Here, a canoe portage for the Powell Forest Canoe Route.

Anticipate steeper terrain along the final 13 kilometres to Goat Lake Main Road though thankfully more elevation will be lost than gained. Walt Hill and Blue Ridge both provide vistas of the surrounding countryside. If running short of time plan on putting up at the picnic area, mile 4 on the Goat Lake Mainline. During times of higher than average fire danger expect to hear a procession of logging trucks and crummy crews heading into the bush well before first light the next morning. Three kilometres further down the Sunshine Coast Trail a bona fide campsite has been established on the banks of the Lois River. Deep pools in the canyon downstream from the dam are popular with locals and visitors alike but be forewarned if a siren blows clear the banks of the river as the sluice gates upstream are about to be opened. Many locals refer to the popular swimming hole as Eagle River. If completing this stage of the Sunshine Coast Trail as a self-contained unit scamper 2 km downstream to Highway 101. Then wait for the bus on the opposite side the road according to the schedule in the appendix of this book.

Sunshine Coast Trail Stage 3: Powell Lake to Fiddlehead Farm <<->> Sunshine Coast Trail-Stage 5: Lois Dam to Saltery Bay

Level: Easy

Distance: 31 km

Time: 2-3 days

Elevation Change: 570 m

Season: June – Oct

Access: See Getting to the Sunshine Coast Trail

If continuing the Sunshine Coast Trail from the previous stage then cross the Powell Lake bridge and, if in need of provisions, follow the road into the old townsite area. A number of small shops and restaurants will be found adjacent to the pulp mill. To regain the trailhead look for a dirt road veering to the left immediately after crossing the bridge at km 50.5. The trail follows a disused side track at the end of the road, 80 metres away. 700 metres further on the route double backs to the right and uphill. If you reach an active log dump then you have missed the turn off. Climb a hundred metres or so up to an active logging road then turn right, looking for orange trail markers some 70 metres down the road on the opposite side from which you came. From the outset the trail climbs steeply over rocky slopes but in little over a kilometre it will bring you back down to Mowat Bay [km 52.8]. Though camping here is not possible swimming certainly is. The small park has a boat launch, washrooms and a snack bar. Look for the trail to resume behind the volleyball courts at the waters edge. A short distance along the trail a sign will confirm that you are plodding along Tony’s Trail as the next 5.5 km section to Haywire Bay Regional Park is called.

The route from Mowat Bay to Haywire Bay [km 58.3] is uneventful save for Wednesday Point at km 55.4 which is an ideal spot to skinny dip or even set up a waterfront home for the night. After crossing the bridge at km 57 turn left and follow the logging road downhill to the boat launch. The lakeside trail is on the left near the bottom of the road and leads, half a click away, to the Haywire Bay camping area. Though just 7.8 km beyond the bridge at Powell Lake, the facility here is a sheer delight to footsore travellers, offering a chance to tidy up with hot showers. If such organized camping is not your thing however, pick up the trail, this time to Lost Lake, about 150 metres past the entrance to the camping area.

Lost Lake and Inland Lake

Thus far the hiking on Stage 3 of the Sunshine Coast Trail has been relatively easy with much of the first 8.5 kilometres being both well-travelled and well-maintained. At km 59 however bushwhacking may be necessary, depending on the season, as pioneer species rush to fill the gap in the forest created by a recent clearcut. Watch carefully for trail markers and black bears. A kilometre later the trail moves up to old-growth topped bluffs. Tiny Lost Lake is not so much missing as it is misplaced. You’ll find it at km 62. Look for carnivorous, jewel-dappled sundew at the swampy foreshore. Half a kilometre past the pond the trails zigzags 30 metres to the right down a disused logging road before resuming its march towards Inland Lake. Though the trail forks a few minutes further on, both forks lead to Inland Lake. During wetter times the left fork is reportedly dryer.

Day hikers and mountain bikers enjoy the easy access to Inland Lake Trail.

The hard-packed, gravel surface of the Inland Lake Trail is level and even wheelchair accessible. Turn right upon reaching it and circle the lake in a counter clockwise direction. There are many sites suited to picnicking, camping swimming or fishing along the circle route with outhouses established at regular intervals. The Sunshine Coast Trail veers off to the right [km 66.8] onto a footpath called Confederation Lake Trail after four kilometres of very easy lakeside walking. Stay with Inland Lake trail for 500 metres past the turn off to reach Antony Island, reportedly the best camping in the area. Spend the night here and you will understand why the locals call this Loon Lake.

A relative newcomer to the region, bullfrogs are an invasive species.

Onward and Upward Next morning backtrack to the sign for Confederation Lake fully prepared to overcome the most demanding section of trail yet. The path climbs to an altitude of 630 metres as it cuts through significant stands of ancient forest. Expect to encounter blowdowns, some of them quite huge, particularly in the spring and early summer. At the far end of Confederation Lake at km 74.1 look forward to finding all the comforts of home. There is a cozy cabin capable of housing six for a night and a picnic area complete with spiffy biffy. Prior to being swallowed up by forestry mega-giant Weyerhaeuser, McMillan Blodel set aside Confederation Lake and environs for posterity. As you’ll be losing the elevation you gained the previous day the final 7.3 km section of trail from Confederation Lake to Fiddlehead Farm [km 81.4] should prove easier going. At the height of summer however finding water along the way may be difficult. Err on the side of caution and pack enough to meet your needs from the outset. On the way the monotony of forest trudging is regularly broken up by bluffs overlooking Powell Lake and Goat Island to the north.

For a bit of wilderness luxury look for the turn off to Fiddlehead Farm at km 80.5. The 33 hectare international wilderness hostel boasts a wood-fired sauna, budget-priced rooms, campground and farm-fresh viands. Those hoping to return to civilization the easy way can board a speed boat back to the Shinglemill Pub & Restaurant at the bottom of Powell Lake for $20. Runs back to town are generally scheduled for Mondays and Fridays and, like the hostel, are available by prior arrangement only. Those intent on keeping to the wilderness as much as possible should detour to Giavanno Lake for a more primitive camping experience.

Sunshine Coast Trail Stage 2: Malaspina Road to Powell Lake <<->> Sunshine Coast Trail-Stage 4: Fiddlehead Farm to Lois River

Level: Moderate

Distance: 29.9 km

Time: 2-3 days

Elevation Change: 140 m

Season: Year-round

Access: See Getting to the Sunshine Coast Trail

From the start at Malaspina Road the Thunder Ridge Trail passes through second-growth forest with a sprinkling of old-growth. These lone ancients are likely seed trees that were left behind when the forest was originally downed. One big and gnarly Douglas fir of note measures 2.3 metres through the middle. Big Gnarly, as the locals coincidentally call it, will be found 3.5 kilometres from the start of this section at km 24.8. One further ancient giant overlooks the 28.5 km mark.

An effigy gazes seaward from the bell tower at Sacred Heart Church on the shores of Sliammon Indian Reserve.

The 3.6 km stretch of trail from Plummer Creek Rd. [25.2 km] to Southview Road is flat and easy so expect to make good time. The middle part of Toquenetch Trail, as this section is called, follows a small creek where spawning salmon may be spotted from late summer onwards. Upon reaching Southview Road [28.8 km] turn left and cross the bridge, taking the first right which should be marked Homestead Campsite. Just beyond this intersection look for the trail plunging back into the forest on the left. Homestead Campsite, with creek water, an outhouse, fire pit and picnic tables, will be found a short distance from the little-used side road.

Canyon Trails

The next 8.9 km section, knitting together the Marathon and Appleton Canyon Trails, is also fairly easy going with varied scenery. Each step now takes you further from the coastal environment as the trail winds inland. A number of bluffs in the vicinity of km 31.6 afford welcomed views. Linger to enjoy them as the trail continues through a horror-show clear-cut immediately upon leaving the bluffs. Follow plastic survey tape and metal markers for approximately 200 metres to pick your way through the mayhem. Reiveleys Pond [km 33.5] too may dispense a few moments of quiet reflection though on a hot day a cool dip might be a more satisfying reward for your efforts. The campsite at Appleton Creek offers the usual primitive amenities. Sixty metres past the main site the trail forks with the left leading to Wilde Road and an outhouse and the right continuing through Appleton Canyon. Follow the latter route to reach a succession of tumbling waterfalls and numerous suitable campsites at creekside. The two-kilometre Appleton Canyon is undeveloped at this time so the usual cautions regarding wilderness sanitation apply. Upon reaching Wilde Road [km 37.7] turn right and look for the Sliammon Lakes Trail 40 metres downhill on the opposite side of the road.

The Appleton Canyon segment of the Sunshine Coast Trail drops past a succession of cascades including Gorge Falls, Bandit Falls and Sylph Falls.

Wilde Road to Wildwood

While Wilde Road leads down to Sliammon Indian reserve and fish hatchery, the Sunshine Coast Trail continues east, skirting the edge of Powell River’s wildest, wooded suburb 8 kilometres away. Initially the route marches through forest of mixed second and old-growth reaching Theyetl Lake [km 38.8], Sliammon Lake [km 39.2], Dogleg Pond [km 41.5] then Little Sliammon Lake [km 42.5] in quick succession. Numerous campsites have been established along the way with only those on Sliammon Lake boasting outhouses. All of the lakes are stocked with trout and offer birding opportunities. At km 44.9 the trail abruptly veers left onto an old logging road. Follow the road for 700 metres to a wide turnaround with left and right branches. The right branch leads to Sutherland Street in Wildwood while the left is called Scout Trail and is the continuation of the Sunshine Coast Trail. The road branches to the right again after 100 metres, finally petering out after 800 metres or more to become a proper footpath. If in doubt stay with the orange markers.

As you gradually gain altitude numerous bluffs open up. The best view hereabouts however is from the summit of Scout Mountain 20 minutes or so off the main trail at km 47.4. Nearly two kilometres following this detour the trail empties onto a gravel road. Though Powell Lake is clearly visible to the left don’t be beguiled as your route continues to the right, 40 metres uphill. Less than a kilometre later the trail spills out into Kinsmen Park at lakeside. At the 50 click mark this is the end of the second stage and fittingly the Shinglemill Pub & Restaurant next door is open for business. Unless continuing deeper into the hinterland call for a cab from the pub after toasting your success. Kinsmen Park is, incidentally, the end of the <http://www.car-free.ca/bc-car-free/canoeing/the-powell-forest-canoe-route.html>Powell Forest Canoe Route.

Sunshine Coast Trail Stage 1: Sarah Point to Malaspina Road <<->> Sunshine Coast Trail Stage 3: Powell Lake to Fiddlehead Farm

Level: Moderate

Distance: 21.3 km

Time: 2-3 days

Elevation Change: 340 m

Season: Year-round

Access: See Getting to the Sunshine Coast Trail

Catch the first bus of the day to reach the trailhead by late afternoon. From the bus depot in Westview hop in a cab to complete the road portion of the journey. Taxi fare to Lund should be around $30. From here a water taxi, costing $50 for up to six people, will be required to reach Sarah Point. Advanced reservations are a must. There are a number of rustic campsites at the beginning of the trail. The sun-baked bluffs of Sarah Point itself are an ideal perch from which to witness the renowned sunsets of the Sunshine Coast. Load up on water, however, before boarding the water taxi as the point is dry. If blustery weather rather than a gentle sunset greets you then push on to Myrmidon Cove 4 km away on the more protected side of Malaspina Peninsula. Myrmidon Cove is endowed with water but no other amenities. On the way expect pleasant views overlooking Desolation Sound and one small beach at Feather Cove, 2.8 km from the beginning of the trail.

Ocean views and saltwater access will continue off and on through much of the next day. Early-rising bird watchers will want to approach Hinder Lake quietly to avoid scaring the waterfowl away. Use extra care in the vicinity of Hinder Lake as it is a source of water for nearby residents and hikers alike. The Knob [km 7.6] in particular provides vistas of Okeover Inlet. At km 9.6 a side trail leads down to a campsite on Cochrane Bay endowed with both water and oysters. Be sure to check with the Red Tide Hotline before harvesting the latter.

Alternately join the resident beaver for a snack any day of the week at [km 12.1] Wednesday Lake. The feature of the beaver lodge is double-digested bark. If you thought to pack along a lightweight fly rod then perhaps you can tease a trout or two out of the pond and into the frying pan instead. The campsite at Wednesday Lake has drinking water, a pit toilet and the plaintive cries of loons to lull you into slumber. Rather than scooping water directly from the lake, dip into the outfall just beyond the camp to reduce the amount of suspended particulate matter. Lest the beaver sports a fever treat all water to be on the safe side. Giardia is no way to start a vacation.

Gwendoline Hills Trail

The final 9 kilometres on this first stage of the Sunshine Coast Trail are the most taxing. Though you might find a trickle here and a drip there, a reliable source of drinking water is nonexistent. Likewise, there are no established campsites along the way. The trail primarily winds through forest including the occasional pocket of old-growth with viewpoints few and far between. Take them in whenever they crop up. Just past Wednesday Lake a short side trail leads to a viewpoint overlooking Okeover Inlet. At the 16 km mark views in the opposite direction overlooking the Strait of Georgia can be had from Manzanita Bluffs.

A rustic campsite with water and picnic table has been established just 100 metres beyond the end of this section at Fern Creek but far superior alternatives abound just a short distance down Malaspina Road. Okeover Inlet Provincial Campground offers the least developed facilities but running water and pit toilets will be appreciated. If undertaking the Sunshine Coast Trail in small, easily-digestable segments or otherwise wanting to bailout at this point call for a taxi from the government wharf here. Nearby Y-Knot Campsite [(604) 483-3243] offers basic camping plus hot showers. Just prior to the end of the trail a well-marked side trail leads to Cedar Lodge B & B [(604) 483-4414] for those in dire need of both a hot water soak and a pillow. Reservations are required.

Sunshine Coast Trail Introduction & Access <<->> Sunshine Coast Trail Stage 2: Malaspina Road to Powell Lake

Map: Geological Survey of Canada 1:50,000 series sheets for the trail are 92 F/15 & 92 F/16.

Powell River Visitors Bureau has produced a brilliant map of the entire region detailing, the Sunshine Coast Trail and the Powell Forest Canoe Route and Desolation Sound. The full-colour map includes topographic information, logging roads, and other routes of interest to hikers. Click to download.

The community of Powell River has it all, a remote, multi-day canoe route, a kayaker’s paradise and now a 175 km bush trek. For info on the first two, follow the links: the Powell Forest Canoe Route and Desolation Sound. The latter Sunshine Coast Trail is the most recent development and, though complete, upgrading is expected to continue for some years yet.

Known as “The Hulks,” a flotilla of WWII era transports rings the deep water booming ground adjacent to the Powell River paper mill, providing protection from the bluster.

The entire trail is marked with bright orange squares though more detailed signage will be gradually added. Some campsites are rustic in the extreme but then again that’s why we go there. The trail is so new in fact that this author has yet to hike its entire length. I did however live in Powell River for five years and have tramped and camped throughout the region including many of the areas embraced by the new trail. Since that was well-before the trail was ever conceived the description below will be necessarily scant.

Though on the British Columbia mainland, Powell River is an isolated community sandwiched between Desolation Sound to the north and Jervis Inlet to the south. The Sunshine Coast Trail runs from land’ s end at Sarah Point southward to the end of the road at the Saltery Bay ferry terminal. Ferries connect the mill town with Comox on Vancouver Island and, via the Sechelt Peninsula, to the Lower Mainland. Twice-daily bus service provides a car-free link from Vancouver. Refer to Getting to the Sunshine Coast for full details.

Hot Springs Cove <<->> Sunshine Coast Trail Stage 1: Sarah Point to Malaspina Road