Tag Archives: Camping

Steveston Via West Dyke Trail

Terrain: Flat

Traffic: None

Season: Year Round

Distance: 11 km o/w

Access: Take the Canada Line to Aberdeen Station in Richmond, exiting from the north end of the station. Follow Cambie Road westward for a single block to gain access to the dykes that encircle the city of Richmond. Though only a block away, the traffic is a horror show around here. Just stay on the sidewalk. If your group has children in it, play it safe and walk bikes to the trail atop the embankment.

This route is not part of the original BC Car-Free guidebook.

Out in the Toolies: A patch of tule fringes the marshland along the West Dyke Trail. Tule [pronounced “tooly”], was harvested and woven into mats by Coast and Interior Salish. Tule mats had a wide variety of uses from roofing materials for seasonal camps to flooring and drying mats. The term “in the toolies”, meaning far from civilization, is derived from this hardy sedge.

Garry Point Park: Situated where the Fraser meets the sea, a kite enthusiast prepares to launch on a blustery day.

Steveston Quay: Prawns offered for sale at dockside.

Snowy Owls <<->> Stinging Needles

 

Barnston Island

Terrain: Access Hilly; Destination Flat

Traffic: Access Heavy; Destination Very Light

Season: Year Round

Distance: 29.5 km r/t

Access: From the north end of King George SkyTrain station follow 100 A Avenue for 5 km east until it ends at 160th Street. From there, turn left [north] and continue to 104 Avenue less than a kilometre away. This intersection is a confusing one due to the convergence of overpasses and on ramps related to TransCanada Highway 1. The most obvious overpass is poorly set up for cyclists though a narrow walkway on the bridge separates cyclists and pedestrians from the excessively heavy traffic here. Slightly east of that is a more accommodating overpass but either will do in a pinch. Cross the highway then continue eastward along 104 Avenue to the Barneston Island ferry just shy of four kilometres away.

This route is not part of the original BC Car-Free guidebook.

Note: Avoid taking the more direct route along 104 Avenue from Surrey Central SkyTrain station. The traffic along this route is excessive with many large commercial vehicles. At a minimum ride on the sidewalk and enjoy the fumes from a safe distance.

The inhabitants of Surrey are completely brainwashed to the automobile-centric ethos of the mid-20th century. That mindlessness is reflected in decision making at the municipal level and naturally extends to the city engineering department where establishing a bike route means posting a green sign with a bicycle on it. Inexplicably, posted bike routes suddenly disappear at key intersections then reappear again somewhere down the road as if to suggest most cyclists are equipped with personal teleporting devices. We aren’t.

Jerry Rig: The ferry — a barge and a tug lashed together — to Barnston Island takes just a few minutes and costs nothing.

To avoid the urban sprawl and suburban hideousness that Surrey is infamous for, it is possible to get closer to your destination by transferring to a bike-rack-equipped bus at Gateway SkyTrain Station. Board at Bay 4 at the south end of the station. The #501 Langley Centre bus will take cyclists, or those who prefer walking, to within 1.5 km of the ferry slip. Get off the bus immediately after it crosses the TransCanada Highway and follow 176th Street north to 104 Avenue. Be forewarned: the landscape hereabouts is industrial, as is the traffic. A right turn on 104 Avenue will take you a few short steps to the ferry. The bus runs from five in the morning until after midnight at half-hour intervals for most of the day with more frequent service during rush hour.

The ferry to Barnston Island takes just a few minutes and operates continuously M – F 6:20 AM – 11:55 PM and Sat – Sun 6:20 AM – 12:55 PM. There is no charge for this service operated on contract with the BC Ministry of Transportation and Infrastructure by Western Pacific Marine.

You’ll immediately note an agrarian whiff in the air upon landing at Barnston Island. In addition to some 150 residents of the human kind, Barnston Island is home to countless cattle, horses and goats. Avalon Dairy, the BC’s first organic milk producer, has a significant operation here. Opus Cranberries is a major supplier to the Ocean Spray brand, helping to establish BC as the second largest grower of the pleasantly tart fruit in North America. The annual cranberry harvest at the end of September is as visually stimulating as the berries are flavourful.

Whether in Vain: This weather vane on Barnston Island aims for the stars.

Inclusion in the province’s Agricultural Land Reserve has so far preserved the rural nature of Barnston Island though certain elements among the residents are bent on having that land-use restriction lifted. The pressures of greed are great; expect a catastrophe of the condominium kind at some point in the island’s future. In the meantime enjoy the pastoral ride.

Barnston Island was named after George Barnston, a member of the Hudson’s Bay Company team that founded Fort Langley nearby in 1827.

From the ferry dock a route counterclockwise around the island passes barns, silos and discarded tractors and other farm implements. A screen of trees mercifully obscures much of the industrial development and log booming operations along the shore of North Surrey. Within a few kilometres the road cuts through Katzie Indian Reserve Number Three. The road here is a little more fractured, enough so that a delicate road bike might be rattled to the core.

A farmhand on Barnston Island wades through a corral of colourful cranberries.

At Mann Point, the easternmost tip of the island, the route hugs the main channel of the mighty muddy Fraser River. For much of the way the view opens up, embracing the Golden Ears peaks in the distance and the eponymous suspension bridge at mid-ground. The foreground is littered with condo developments along the opposite bank in the Pitt Meadows.

Though Barnston Island has none of the commercial retailing often associated with popular recreation destinations, the northern tip of the island has a pit stop in the form of Robert Point Rest Area. Nothing fancy here: a washroom, a few picnic tables and access to the river shore from which tugboats may be observed hauling log booms to nearby mills. There is no potable water on the island so be sure to bring your own. The ferry dock lies a mere 1.8 km south of Robert Point.

At 9.8 km, a circle tour of the island is certainly walkable. Shutterbugs will find much in this pastoral microcosm during any season.

Back in Surrey, the return journey is largely uphill though not overly so. If running low on water there is a convenience store at 168th Street and 104 Avenue just over 2 km away from the ferry dock.

Bald Eagles <<->> The Tree to Sea Loop

 

Stein Valley Mini-Traverse

Level: Difficult

Distance: 51 km

Time: 5+ days

Elevation Change: 1870 m

Season: June to Sept

Map: 92 I/5 & 92 J/8

Access: From Vancouver take the bus to Pemberton [See Getting to Whistler.] and, as prearranged, meet the driver from Pemberton Taxi [604 894-1111] who will take you some 60 km further along the Duffy Lake Road to the Blowdown Pass area where this route begins. 3½ km beyond the Duffy Lake East Recreation Site the driver should turn right onto a disused logging road marked with a “No Through Road” sign. With luck the mainline will be passable for the next 9 km. If luck is not on your side and you find the road washed out you’ll have to hoof it uphill the rest of the way in. Stay on the mainline all the way until you reach a large flat parking area at about the 9 km mark. Take the first branch line to the left after this and continue for another 1½ km to the beginning of a private mining road. Contact the B.C. Forest Service in Lillooet to check road conditions ahead of time. Follow the mining road in towards Blowdown Pass.

Depending on how far you’ve already had to hike you may want to make pretty Blowdown Lake your destination for the first night on the trail. From the start of the Silver Queen Mine road the lake is just 3 km away while windy Blowdown Pass is a further kilometre. Many different routes emanate from the alpine pass. True fanatics may want to set up a base camp from which to explore the wide open alpine hereabouts before continuing on the Mini-Traverse proper. Gott Peak to the north and Gotcha Peak to the south are popular half day ascents, both requiring route-finding skills.

From Blowdown Pass at 2150 m our route continues east along the mine road for 8½ km, dropping gradually at first then more steeply before taking up a course parallel to the South Fork of Cottonwood Creek. Abruptly the road crosses a bridge over Cottonwood Creek, heading off in a southerly direction. Continue hiking east along the north side of the creek for 15 minutes or so. Where the road plunges down towards the creek bed you’ll find a well-defined trail to the east, continuing to parallel the creek. Follow this trail for 5 km down through the meadow, passing a disused trapper’s cabin just before the confluence of Cottonwood Creek’s north and south fork. The best camping in the area is on the opposite side of the waterway. From Blowdown Pass to Cottonwood Junction expect a descent of 1170 m over 13½ km.

The trail next drops steeply south into the Stein River Valley continuing to follow the course of Cottonwood Creek. The trail is well-defined with little underbrush but your progress may be impeded again by deadfalls. No longer a hindrance, fallen logs will get you across Cattle Valley Creek 4½ km further on. The campsite here is well-established but Cottonwood Creek camp is just 3½ km away at the bottom of the valley. To reach it you’ll have to negotiate a succession of switchbacks over loose talus, following rock cairns where the footpath is not obvious. Pause in your route finding from time to time to enjoy the view of the valley laid out below. From Cottonwood Junction to the banks of the Stein is 8½ km with an elevation loss of just 390 m but the going can be taxing at times particularly if the trail has not been recently cleared of deadfalls.

At the bottom you’ll find the campsite just beyond the Stein Valley Heritage Trail. Follow the previous hike description in reverse to reach the community of Lytton at the confluence of the Fraser and Thompson Rivers.

Stein River Valley - Stein Lower Canyon to Mid-Valley <<->> Nicomen Lake

Seymour River Hatchery

Access: From downtown Vancouver load bike and body onto the #210 Upper Lynn Valley bus at Dunsmuir Street [Bay 2] next to Burrard SkyTrain station. Stay on the bus until the end of the line at the corner of Evelyn & Underwood Streets. The bus trip should take around 45 minutes. Take the short-cut east past two tennis courts and continue half a block to the corner of Dempsey and Lynn Valley Roads.

From here, the quickest route follows Rice Lake Road which drops steeply to a footbridge across Lynn Creek. Cross the bridge and climb back out of the canyon, following the broad gravel path for 500 metres or so to the parking lot at the end of Lillooet Road. Here you’ll find washrooms, drinking water, information displays with hand out maps and, of course, the start of the Lower Seymour Conservation Reserve Road. Also known as the Seymour Valley Trailway, the paved forest road extends to within 2 Km of the salmon hatchery.

For a slightly more circuitous route with rougher roads to ride, look for the Lynn Headwaters Regional Park entrance to the north of the corner of Dempsey and Lynn Valley Roads. Follow Intake Road for about a kilometre before reaching the park proper. Continue past the park HQ, crossing the bridge over Lynn Creek. At the information board take the bumpy road to the right, climbing east out of the Lynn drainage and into the Seymour watershed. Ignore side trails to Rice Lake. Just over a kilometre away you’ll reach a rustic educational centre with a couple of picnic tables. The paved Lower Seymour Conservation Reserve Road [Seymour Valley Trailway] doubles back from here in a northerly direction.

Still growing strong: Though logged in the early days of the 20th Century a few ancient giants remain in the Seymour drainage.

Those in North or West Vancouver can take the #228 Lynn Valley bus from Lonsdale Quay to the corner of Dempsey and Lynn Valley Roads, proceeding as above.

Alternatively, take the #210 Upper Lynn Valley bus to Phibbs Exchange and transfer to the #229 West Lynn bus. Get off at Lynn Canyon Park, cross the suspension bridge and follow the river upstream for a short distance until you find a huge wooden staircase.

Climb the stairs and continue uphill for another 20 minutes until you reach the parking lot near Rice Lake where the paved road begins.

If arriving by SeaBus, take the #229 West Lynn bus in reverse from Lonsdale Quay to Lynn Canyon Park and follow the instructions above. Refer to the Baden-Powell Trail East map embedded in this page below.

Hatchery

Originally built in 1977 by the British Columbia Institute of Technology as a teaching facility, the Seymour River Hatchery has since been upgraded and expanded. To date over 5 million salmon fry have been released.

The hatchery, which attracts some 10,000 visitors annually, is uniquely situated at the end of an 11 km stretch of paved road which is closed to vehicle traffic. Consequently, a great way to visit the site is on roller blades if you have them, bike or hike in if you don’t.

Getting there is half the fun: The route to the Seymour River Salmon Hatchery winds through mature second growth and a magnificent patch of old growth at road’s end. The road is 20 km round trip with about 2 km of unpaved trail at either end when arriving via Lynn Headwaters Regional Park.

The Lower Seymour Conservation Reserve (LSCR) road is a challenging balance of up and down though my wife claims, like some sketchy paradox from MC Escher: “it’s uphill all the way, in both directions.” Saddle up and decide for yourself.

Lunkers Lurking: In addition to salmon, gargantuan steelhead, rainbow trout with a yearning for the sea, return to the headwaters of the Seymour River to renew the cycle. Unlike the salmon, however, steelhead are able to return to the sea, repeating the cycle many times over.

The best time of year to view the spectacle of spawning salmon is from September on until first snowfall closes the road. The hatchery is open to the public, conducts hands-on educational programs in conjunction with the federal Department of Fisheries and provides numerous opportunities to volunteer. For more information visit the website of the Seymour Salmonid Society.

Sea to Sky VOICE <<->> The Chief & Squaw

Capilano Salmon Hatchery

Access: During peak hours Monday through Saturday catch the #246 Lonsdale Quay via Highland bus at any of the stops along West Georgia Street in downtown Vancouver. Stay on the bus until the corner of Capilano Road and Woods Drive in North Vancouver. The driver will usually call out the best place to transfer to the #236 Grouse Mountain bus.

Fishermen tease spawning salmon to snap at a hook in the canyon just below the hatchery

Next, get off at the corner of Capilano Road and Capilano Park Road and walk in to the hatchery. During non-peak hours take the #240 15th Street bus to the corner of Marine Drive and Capilano Road where you can catch the #246 Lonsdale Quay via Highland bus up Capilano Road. Transfer to the #236 as above. For an alternate route take SeaBus to Lonsdale Quay in North Vancouver and board the #236 Grouse Mountain bus. No other transfers will be necessary to reach hatchery.

Much closer to home than the Adams River Sockeye run, but also less dramatic, the Capilano River in North Vancouver is home of important coho and chinook salmon runs. The former start heading up the river in July while the latter begin in September. By the middle of November both runs are concluded. Juveniles are released from January to May. Capilano Canyon is particularly gorgeous in autumn with fingers of sunlight poking through the thick forest canopy at a low angle. Well-maintained trails along the river’s edge allow easy access to the salmon’s natural habitat and to “fish ladders” which steer salmon into the Capilano Salmon Hatchery. Glass walls built into ladder of the federal government facility reveal the fascinating underwater world of the Pacific salmon as they queue up for a fate somewhat different from that which nature intended. Rather than dying a noble death after a cosmic struggle these fish receive a bonk on the head and the roe or milt is unceremoniously squeezed from their bellies after which their carcasses are tossed on some dung heap. Isn’t science wonderful?

Just a few minutes downstream from the hatchery a more pleasing sight awaits. From a comfortable perch above the canyon walls you’ll bear witness to competition in its purest form. Massive chinook vie for control of a tiny patch gravel in which to incubate their eggs. The winner, like the loser, will most surely die but, with a little luck, it’s superior genetic material will mature and bolster the overall strength of the species.

While salmon don’t generally eat once they enter the river, you may see anglers in the canyon below teasing the aggressive fish into snapping at an obnoxious lure. While catch and release saps the salmon’s remaining strength, ripping it away from the nest it so steadfastly defends this is but one of the many perils the salmon faces as it attempts to close the circle of life.

Though virtually all of the forest on the North Shore is recovering second growth, check out the 500 year old giant fir that the loggers missed. At 61 metres tall, this is how much of the province once looked. Be sure to take the 20 minute stroll upstream to Cleveland Dam, construction of which necessitated the building of the province’s first fish hatchery.

A network of relatively easy trails makes exploring in the vicinity of the hatchery worthwhile at any time. Following the river downstream you can meet up again with the bus network at Park Royal shopping center. Catch the #250 Vancouver bus or indeed any Vancouver-bound bus back downtown from the south side of Marine Drive.

Bull Kelp <<->> Cattails

Adams River Salmon Watching

Some call it ‘salmon watching’ but watching people watch salmon is more like it. The Adam’s River salmon run peaks every four years attracting a quarter million people who line the banks of the crystal clear stream to witness the return of ten times as many sockeye salmon. An elegy of life played out in miniature, the spectacle of the life cycle closing is often described as an emotional experience by onlookers. Many are moved to tears as they watch natural selection in its most perfect expression.

Against All Odds: Salmon are thought to use the earth’s magnetic field for navigating on the open ocean. Closer to shore pheromones unique to each river are relied upon to hone in on the waterway of their birth. Salmon are reportedly able to detect the scent of their particular river in concentrations as weak as 1 or 2 parts per million.

Upon returning home, a nesting pair typically releases 4000 eggs before dying. Of these 800 will survive to become tiny salmon fry. Predation or mishap in the river means only 200 smolts will ever reach the ocean. Birds of prey, sea mammals or disease take their toll however with just 10 adults setting out to rediscover the river of their birth. Fishermen will snag 8 of those, leaving a single pair to complete the cycle. Such grim calculations leave no margin of error. Unusually virulent disease, over-fishing, the tirades of global warming or stream damage through logging, construction or pollution could easily upset such a delicate balance sending the species into a downward spiral.

Of the 4000 eggs laid by each female only two will survive to finish the return journey four years later to the place of their birth. The others will succumb to natural and human predation, fisheries mismanagement, natural and human-devised ecological disasters and, finally, the rigours of the 490 km journey upstream against the currents of the mighty Fraser and Thompson Rivers. Only the toughest, the canniest survive.

With their reserves of fat entirely depleted, the crimson flesh of the weary sockeye can be seen through their skin. In a final heroic act the sockeye pair off, fashion a nest in the river gravel, spawn then guard their precious legacy, until exhausted, they die, becoming just food for scavenging eagles and crows and bears and other creatures. In peak years 2½ million typically cram the river and spawning channels to overflowing. In off years too however, sockeye, in fewer numbers, return during September and October. The drama is no less inspiring and, since the crush of migrating humans is considerably less, the experience may be all the more satisfying. 2010 was a peak year so, likewise 2014, 2018 and so on every four years should also mark their triumphant return. 2010 saw a record breaking salmon run which the DFO estimated at 3.8 million sockeye returning to the Adams River as part of a overall run of 8.6 million in the entire Fraser River watershed.

Of course the local Chamber of Commerce, always eager to capitalize on a promising event, has mounted the Salute to the Sockeye to coincide with the quadrennial return. Typical events include the Squilax Pow Wow, Square Dance Weekends, Family Theatre, North Shuswap Artisans Craft & Pottery Sales, Snowmobile Poker Run and so on. Hokey yes, but then again, 2½ million spawning salmon is a hard act to follow.

Greyhound will take you as far as Salmon Arm, east of Kamloops, six times daily. A 30 minute limo or taxi ride will be enough to complete the journey to the banks of the Adams River. Book accommodation or camping sites well ahead of time to avoid disappointment. If you plan on tenting out make sure your sleeping bag can cut the season. There is no camping allowed at Roderick Haig-Brown Provincial Park where this marvel unfolds but Cottonwood Campsite right next door is ideally situated and features log cabins, showers, even laundry in addition to lakeside campsites.

Cottonwood Campsite:

RR#1, S8, C9
Chase , British Columbia
Canada, V0E 1M0

(250) 679-8406

There are 272 campsites available at Shuswap Lake Provincial Park 13 km further along the road.

About the Author: Brian Grover <<->> Bald Eagles

The Mid-Coast Trail

Level: Challenging

Distance: 43 km

Time: 5 Days

Map: 92 E/8 & 92 E/10

Terrain: Undulating

Season: May – Sept

Comparisons between the Mid-Coast Trail and the West Coast Trail are inevitable. And while both largely follow the beach along the western fringes of Vancouver Island, the comparison stops there. The West Coast Trail has earned an international reputation over the years attracting as many as 9,359 hikers in a single season. Environmental degradation was inevitable. Litter and sewage and broad hiking avenues supplanted a once pristine wilderness. Foot traffic comparable to the Stanley Park Seawall forced indigenous wildlife away from the coast, forcing also Parks Canada to impose quotas for the first time in 1992.

The 43 km Mid-Coast Trail, by contrast, is a well-kept secret. Recently protected by the provincial government’s Clayoquot Land Use decision, the Mid-Coast Trail remains a true coastal wilderness attracting only a handful of savvy purists every year. For the time being its relative remoteness is its best protection.

The Vanishing Wilds: Hiking along the intertidal fringe of the Mid-Coast Trail reveals virgin wilderness like beautiful Barchester Beach. Bears and wolves live here and just a few of that ‘most dangerous game’ ever passes through. These ecotourists travelled all the way from the industrial wasteland of Japan just to experience what most local British Columbians take for granted.

Getting There is Half the Fun

Most hikers reach the trailhead from Tofino [See Getting to Tofino]. A few local bush pilots will land on Escalante beach. Though fast, this approach is not recommended for the faint of heart.

Alternately, hikers can contract the services of local guide and entrepreneur Peter Buckland who will arrange air or water transport from Tofino to his property at Boat Basin.

A third, more leisurely, route to the trailhead, relies on the expertise of local guide and fisherman Dave Ignace [see below]. The first leg of the adventure takes us over choppy waters to Hesquiat, site of a once thriving aboriginal village and Catholic mission. The name for the community is onomatopoeic, derived from the sound eel grass laden with herring roe makes as it slides through one’s teeth. As the name-meister Captain John Walbran put it:

“At Hesquiaht village a saltwater grass called ‘segmo’ drifts on shore in large quantities, especially at the time of the herring spawning, which the Natives are in the habit of tearing asunder with their teeth to disengage from the grass or wee the spawn, which is esteemed by them a great delicacy.”

A tsunami in 1964 and modern maladies like small pox and urbanization have reduced Hesquiat to just the Ignace family. This is the last outpost of hospitality on the central coast. Dave and his wife Diane have established a rustic camping area and, as an added bonus will host a lavish split-salmon and crab barbecue on the beach. Anticipation of the seafood, fresh garden salad, wild blackberry flan and bonfire potatoes will fortify hikers through days of backpackers’ rations.

From Hesquiat, Dave’s boat handling skills will be required to ferry hikers past the breakers of Estavan Point, over the rollers of the open Pacific, through myriad kelp beds, reefs and other hidden hazards. At Escalante Point near the mouth of Nootka Sound it’s time to bid your worthy seaman farewell, wade ashore and set up a base camp before setting out to explore the beaches to the north.

Nature Mirrors Art

From Escalante set an easy pace following the coastline southwards. Sand soon gives way to a field of gigantic, voluptuous sandstone and conglomerate formations reminiscent of Henry Moore’s wildest abstract imaginings. And if Moore sensuality is not your thing you’ll find a hint of Salvadore Dali’s jagged dreamscapes in the massive tectonic uplifts that follow.

Crusty Uplift: Hiking the Mid-Coast Trail is frequently called an uplifting experience: about every 200 million years.

At Split Cape you’ll encounter the only real impediment to navigation though the surge channel here is easily overcome with a quick scramble through the bushes at all but the highest of tides.

That Old Sinking Feeling

Barchester Bay affords exquisite beach camping but step quickly when fording the river here as patches of quicksand are sure to surprise. This is not the Tarzan movie variety of quicksand, however, so mucky boots are the worst you’ll endure.

Since the river at Barchester is brackish, wading upstream will be necessary to ensure fresh supplies. In fact, finding fresh water all along the Mid-Coast Trail can be a problem in the summer months with many creeks either dry or reduced to a trickle. Keep a sharp eye open for any wet spots at the forest edge. Usable sources will often disappear under the sand upon reaching the beach. Remember to top up whenever possible, tasting first for salt contamination.

Expect to encounter black bears scavenging on the beach. On one occasion we were able to watch and photograph, from a safe distance, a sow with two cubs for about ten minutes before being discovered. Wolves too are in abundance on this part of the coast though spotting these shy animals is no easy task. Imagine though, crawling out of your tent in the morning to discover fresh wolf tracks on top of your own!

Shelter Skelter: Peter Buckland’s homey cabin at Homais Cove was originally built to accommodate hikers who passed through his property at Boat Basin following the Escalante River down to the beach. It looks like they had a whale of a rib feast. Bronto burger anyone?

In 1774 the Spanish made contact with the original inhabitants of Hesquit at Estavan Point. Now you’ll find the tallest lighthouse, 39 m, on Vancouver Island. Built in 1907, Estavan Point Light Station is one of the few remaining manned lighthouses on the west coast. This will be your closest link to the outside world. Estavan Point lighthouse was the only place in Canada to see action during WW II. A marauding Japanese submarine crew fired more than 25 shells at the beacon but missed every time. Maybe it is true, as the Japanese say “Tôdai moto kurashi – It’s darkest at the foot of the lighthouse.” Following the assault, lighthouses up and down the coast were very dark indeed: blacked out in fact, until the end of the war. For its part, the submarine was sunk a few months later off the coast of New Zealand. The beach prior to Estavan Point or the tiny one at Smokehouse Bay are perhaps the best spots for camping on the third night. If actually planning to sleep, the further from the Estavan Point fog horn the better.

Rock Carving

A petroglyph can be found on one of the beach boulders just prior to Matlahaw Point. For those who intend to continue past Hesquiat to Boat Basin, you’ll find ideal camping in the vicinity of Teahmit Indian Reserve. Perhaps it goes without saying but respect for the land should be paramount at all times. Hikers should be especially observant when crossing native lands.

At Hesquiat you will be greeted by Dave Ignace and family once again. From here he will ferry you on to Hot Springs Cove for a well-earned soak in the finest natural hot spring on the west coast.

For transportation to and from the trailhead contact Dave & Diane Ignace in Hesquiat:

Dave & Diane Ignace

250-670-1164

PO Box 418
Tofino, B.C. V0R 2Z0

The West Coast Trail <<->> The Powell Forest Canoe Route

The West Coast Trail

Day One Pachena Bay to Michigan Creek 12 kilometres.

After signing in at Pachena Bay at the northern end near the community of Bamfield you’ll find the going very easy at first. A number of impassible headlands make beach walking out of the question until Michigan Creek. The first 10 km of the trail follow what was once a supply road for the Pachena Point Lighthouse. As a consequence the trail is generally flat and so wide that walking two abreast is possible. Just a kilometre before the lighthouse on this pretty but otherwise uneventful section of trail a viewpoint affords a view of Flat Rocks where sea lions often enjoy basking in the sun on a warm spring or autumn day.

At the lighthouse you’ll be greeted in your native language no matter where in the world you come from. Hikers are welcome to look around the Lighthouse grounds during posted visiting hours but keep in mind that this is home to the lighthouse keepers. Disturb nothing including the keepers as they go about their daily chores. Only recently the original tower was decommissioned, replaced with an automated light-on-a-stick. The original beacon at Pachena Point, now a Recognized Heritage Building, is the last remaining wooden lighthouse in British Columbia. The massive Fresnel lens and oil wick lamp have operated faultlessly since 1907.

Two kilometres on consider calling it a day at the popular Michigan Creek campsite[km 12.] After setting up camp check out the boiler and other rusty bits of iron from the steamship Michigan that ran aground here in January 1893 costing a number of lives.

Much of the next day will be spent hiking along the beach. Loose rocks, slippery seaweed-covered surfaces, soft sinking sand and surge channels all require special attention especially when encumbered with a heavy backpack. The majority of ankle, wrist and arm injuries occur on the intertidal shelf. A sturdy driftwood walking stick or ski pole can go a long way towards providing the additional stability needed along the shore route. Once you reach the ladders at the bottom end of the trail you’ll doubtless agree that a collapsible walking stick is well worth the investment.

The West Coast Trail-Day Two Michigan Creek to Tsusiat 12½ km

From Michigan Creek the first two kilometres to Darling River are beach accessible during all but the highest tides [below 3.7 metres.] The cable car across the Darling River [km 14] is the first of many you will encounter on the West Coast Trail. They are fun to ride on and will keep your feet dry but often the cable cars are out of order. When creeks are running low marching across them instead will save considerable time and energy. Whenever fording streams undo your waist belt and loosen your pack straps in the event that you stumble and have to quickly jettison your pack.

If the tides are in your favour, continue along the beach for a further 3 km until Tsocowis Creek. Though a forest route is available, most prefer the open coastal scenery and the ease of walking the beach route affords. Keep an eye seaward as the foreshore is popular with foraging Gray whales.

The next three kilometres to Trestle Creek follow a relatively easy forest footpath packed with historical relics. To find the trail from the beach, look for fishing floats hanging in the trees. Access points are marked this way all along the West Coast Trail. Be sure to top up your water at Billy Goat Creek as the elixir of life can be hard to find the rest of the way to the Klanawa River. About a kilometre beyond Billy Goat Creek pause for a moment at the Valencia viewpoint to consider the victims of the shipwreck in January 1906 which ultimately led to the construction of the Pachena Point Light Station and the West Coast Lifesaving Trail. In time the sea has claimed every last remnant of wreckage leaving only the dimmest memory of the 126 people who died on the rocks off distant Shelter Bight. Those not mercifully claimed by drowning were trapped with cliffs at their backs and impassible headlands on either side. Many faced the raging sea bravely only to be exhausted and broken by hypothermia. Amazingly, 38 survivors managed to scramble to safety.

Just beyond the viewpoint you’ll come across first a grader then a steam “donkey” [km 19] left behind after completion of the Lifesaving trail in 1909. The road-wide portion of the trail extended from Bamfield to the site of the Valencia wreck at Shelter Bight, continuing on to Carmanah Point as a well-defined trail. Beyond Carmanah the Lifesaving trail was a rough footpath hacked through the forest to Port Renfrew. Though all sections have been vastly improved, today this relativity persists.

The winch on the rocks at Shelter Bight and the anchor at Trestle Creek are thought to come from the 1923 wreck of the steamer Robert E. Lewers. At low tide wreckage from the Janet Cowan which sank in 1895 can also be seen at Shelter Bight [km 20.]

Either trail or beach will take you the 2½ km from Trestle Creek to the cable car crossing at Klanawa River. Since you will have already covered 11 km since Michigan Creek some will want to stop here for the night and Klanawa River [km 23] is certainly a suitable spot to pitch a tent. Many, however, will want to push on for another 1½ km through the forest to the most popular place on the West Coast Trail, Tsusiat Falls. The sandy beach, picturesque waterfall, dipping pool and sea caves are attractive enough for some hikers to camp over for several days at a time. The crowds can be insufferable however so many others would rather opt for a more wilderness setting to set up camp. The choice is yours. Assuming you fall into the latter category and decide to stop for the night at Klanawa keep in mind that the river is tidal so you may have to go upstream some distance in order to get untainted water when the tide is in. Always taste the water first before filling up to avoid contaminating your container.

The West Coast Trail-Day Three Tsusiat Falls to Dare Point 13½ km

Even if you didn’t camp at Tsusiat Falls [km 25.5] you will want to stop to enjoy the scenery and snap a few pictures. From the falls the beach again affords the best hiking. Tsusiat Point a kilometre away is impassible at tides above 2.7 metres. The Hole-in-the-Wall at the point is another popular photo op. Another kilometre reveals an anchor mired in the beach near a forest access trail. The beach route continues another kilometre before Tsuquadra Point [km 29] forces hikers back into the forest for the last three kilometres before Nitinat Narrows.

Tsuquadra Indian Reserve is now out of bounds since hikers in the past have desecrated important cultural sites hereabouts. The beaches along this section of trail however are very attractive with numerous sea caves revealed at low tide. Trails just before and after the reserve provide access to public portions of the beach. Ring the dinner bell, a giant iron triangle, when you reach Nitinat Narrows [km 32] to call for the ferry across this treacherous waterway. The ferry, operated by members of the Ditidaht Indian Band from early May to early October, costs $12.50 and is the only way to cross this deep tidal river. Keep your Trail Use Permit handy to show the operator when you board. Both ferries along the West Coast Trail must be paid for in advance upon registration. On a hot day it may be possible to purchase an ice cold brew or two from the skipper. Remember, however, if you intend to enjoy your beer at the next campsite you are expected to carry your empties, as with all your garbage, to be properly disposed of at the end of the trail. Water is going to be a problem for the next 10 km so be sure to top up with water once you reach the opposite shore. There is excellent water to the left of the main trail just a few steps from the dock. Due to the ignorance and immaturity of hikers in the past, the Indian villages of Whyac and Clo-oose [km 35] are now off limits. Hikers must remain on the forest the trail for the next 4 km until reaching the Cheewhat River. A number of unique petroglyphs in the vicinity of Clo-oose record the passage of the paddlewheel steamer Beaver and other sailing ships in 1836. These treasures too are now off-limits to hikers. From one of the cliff-top viewpoints between the two villages note the anchor below, all that remains of the Skagit which was shipwrecked in 1906.

Meaning “river of urine,” water from the Cheewhat is undrinkable. A small spring to the left of the trail just before the Cheewhat River Bridge is, in spite of the sulphuric tinge, the best water in the area. What may be caustic to humans seems oddly attractive to crabs, however. Sizable dungeness crabs often litter the bottom of the shallow Cheewhat River as it meanders out to sea below the bridge. If equipped with a fishing license you may discover the real reason for carrying that hiking stick day after day. Using the oldest trick in the book, scare the crabs with the stick towards a companion waiting in the shallows. Always grip the crabs from behind, grasping the main shell firmly between thumb and forefingers. Use any other technique and you will no doubt find out how eager indeed the crabs are to end up in a pot of boiling water.

The point of land overlooking the mouth of the Cheewhat River is also Indian Reserve and therefore out of bounds but the sandy beach beyond that and extending for nearly 1½ km to Dare Point would be ideal for camping except for the lack of water. Only one site about 1 km away has an adequate supply. Since you will have already covered 13½ km since Klanawa River setting up camp here might be well-advised.

The West Coast Trail-Day Four Dare Pt to Walbran Cr 16 km

You’ll start the day on the forest footpath again but only for a kilometre or so. Once past Dare Point [km 37] the beach is again accessible except when tides are running below 2.1 metres. Wreckage including the anchor from the steamer Santa Rita which ran aground in 1923 can be found in a surge channel about halfway between Dare Point and Dare Beach. The headland before Dare Beach is passable at low tide but the forest route, being both faster and safer, is recommended. From Dare Beach the trail moves inland and includes some sections of boardwalk leading to Carmanah Point Lighthouse. Before leaving the beach note the unique natural breakwater off shore called the Cribs [km 40.]

The Carmanah Point Light Station [km 44] was first manned in 1891 as a complement to the Cape Beale Light Station which was established in 1874 as a reference point to assist mariners searching for the entrance to Juan de Fuca Strait.

Beyond the lighthouse you’ll regain the beach once again. The trail follows a beach-only route for the next 7 km to Vancouver Point. If time is on your side, take a break at Carmanah Creek [km 46] and wade upstream 1.3 km unencumbered with packs for a look at the Carmanah Giant, the world’s largest sitka spruce tree. The Carmanah Giant is 95 metres tall and 3 metres thick at the base. Carmanah Creek is also an excellent place to camp though I have seen the river and the beaches in the vicinity absolutely polluted from tens of thousands of krill-feasting herring gulls. The overwhelming stench made camping impossible.

Continuing on from Carmanah Creek looks easy. Do not be misled. The powdery sand places unique demands on your calf muscles, knees and lower back. While you will move forward at a rapid pace you’ll find it exhausting work. Even at the water’s edge, where the wet, packed sand is firmer, walking is never easy. Mercifully, the rocky sandstone shelves provide some relief when the tide is low. If the tide is below 3.7 metres it is possible to walk around Vancouver Point [km 51] and on to the mouth of the Walbran River [km 53.] Wading the river will be necessary, however, so this route is not recommended during spring runoff or following heavy rains. After 16 km of steady trudging you’ll be more than eager to pitch the tent at this picturesque site.

The West Coast Trail-Day Five Walbran Cr to Camper Cr 9 km

Awaken well-rested after the long haul on the previous day to realize you have to undertake a mere 9 km amble today. Look a little closer at your map and notice that the terrain, relatively flat thus far, is about to undergo a dramatic transformation. The beach has suddenly become problematic forcing hikers away from the coast and into the forest. A succession of creeks big and small has cut deep ravines across your route. As you will soon discover, this day will stand out as a seemingly endless sequence of ladders, some of them broken, all of them slippery. From this day forward, when you think of the phrase “temperate rain forest” you will recall the magnificent gloom you are about to enter. Depending on the weather, you may also think of mud.

The 3 km from Walbran Creek to Logan Creek could be accomplished on the beach, at least when tides are below 2.1 metres, were it not for the dangerous surge channel at Adrenaline Creek [km 55.] Adrenaline Surge is a wide fissure that cuts through the intertidal shelf to the cliff face where a waterfall tumbles into the channel. During periods of low precipitation, and when tides are below 1.7 metres, an exposed rock in the middle of the surge channel provides a perilous stepping stone to the other side. Be forewarned: hikers have died here.

By comparison, the forest route is largely uneventful. From Walbran Creek you’ll climb 150 metres or so to a boggy area, excellent mosquito habitat early in the season, before climbing ladders down into the ravine carved by Adrenaline Creek. After climbing out the other side, it will be another kilometre before you begin descending into Logan Creek canyon [km 56.] Ladders will drop you on to a suspension bridge which should not be crossed by more than six people at once. If you wish to access the beach and camping area follow the trail to the right once you have reached the opposite side of the span. Otherwise mount the ladders again to climb out of the ravine. There is no beach route between Logan Creek and Cullite Creek [km 58.]

The high ground is marshy once again but thankfully the trail is topped with a cedar boardwalk. Pay close attention to your footing as some boards may be cracked or broken. Always try to step across two boards at once in case one happens to give way. Repeat the up-down performance at Cullite Creek, crossing the river via cable car. Even if not camping at Cullite Cove this exquisite site is certainly worth a side trip. From the beach here I have seen a pod of killer whales swim by and on a different occasion, enjoyed watching a family of otters beachcombing in the early morning.

Just ½ km further on you’ll encounter the bridge across Sandstone Creek. Descend the ladders to the beach to find another exceedingly attractive campsite complete with tumbling waterfall. Those who have had enough of yo-yo hiking will be pleased to know that the beach now becomes a viable alternative again. The catch is that getting onto the intertidal shelf at Sandstone Creek may require a bit of wading and is not accessible at all when the tide is above 1.2 metres. Having gained the shelf, the beach is passable to Camper Creek when tides are below 1.7 metres. When unsure, err on the side of caution and stay with the boggy forest route. The 3½ km to Camper Creek require no tricky manoeuvring, just steady plodding. As the best, last campsite before the end of the trail, Camper Creek [km 62] can get crowded. The

West Coast Trail- Day Six Camper Cr to Gordon R 13 km

After crossing the creek on the cable car and climbing out of the ravine, the end of the trail is a steady slog through the forest mud. Alternatives that involve the beach add welcomed variation as well as significant distance to your day. At two and three kilometres from Camper Creek the beach becomes accessible once again. Take the second access route to avoid a difficult surge channel. The rocky shelf here is passable when tides are below 2.4 metres for 1 km. Most hikers then return to the forest for the duration of the trip.

The geology along the next two kilometres of shelf to Owen Point, however, should not be missed. Known locally as Moonscape, the sandstone surfaces along the way have been uniquely sculpted by aeons of weather and water.

Owen Point itself is passable when the tide is below 1.8 metres. The beach route beyond that to Thrasher Cove is narrow with many loose rocks and can be clogged with driftwood making this an often demanding route. Cleft Falls and a series of delightful sea caves might just make following this route worthwhile however. As the going will be slow be sure to allow enough time to cover the 2½ km from the point to Thrasher Cove while the tide is out. Thrasher Cove is an attractive place to camp but those determined to reach the end of the trail before nightfall will have to climb 1 km steeply up to the main trail [km 70.] On the final 5 km leg of the journey you’ll reach the highest point on the West Coast Trail, a viewpoint overlooking Port San Juan.

Shortly thereafter [km 72] you’ll encounter another abandoned steam “donkey.” This one was used to log the area in days gone by. This is the only section of the West Coast Trail which suffered the bite of the cross cut saw. Compare the thick understory vegetation that has resulted with the relatively open spaces beneath the canopy of virgin forest you passed through the day before. When you finally reach the trailhead at Gordon River [km 75] wait for the herring skiff that will ferry you across to the other side. Like the ferry that took you across Nitinat Narrows, boat transportation here costs $12.50 and should have been paid when you registered. The ferry operates just four times daily at 9:15 and 11:15 every morning and at 3:15 and 6:15 in the afternoon. Your Trail Use Permit is your ticket to ride. Return your permit to the Parks Canada office at the mouth of Gordon River. For those who have to weather one more night in the area while waiting for transportation there is commercial camping nearby at the Pacheenaht Indian reserve for $8 per tent per night.

The West Coast Trail - Introduction <<->> The Mid-Coast Trail

The West Coast Trail – Introduction

Level: Difficult

Distance: 75 km

Time: 4 – 7 Days

Map: Provided to registrants

Terrain: Undulating

Season: May – Sept

Extending 75 km along the southwestern shore of Vancouver Island, the West Coast Trail attracts 8,600 hikers each year. Visitors, encumbered with heavy backpacks, are challenged by deep ravines with seemingly endless ladders, slippery beach trails, taxing river fords, drenching rains and, at times, knee-deep mud. Sound horrible? The rewards are less easy to enumerate but include some of the finest scenery in the world, magnificent wildlife including bears and cougars, Gray whales and orcas. For better or worse, hiking the West Coast Trail is an experience never to be forgotten. For many it may be an endurance test, but compared with the perils of a bygone era, undertaking the West Coast Trail today is, if you’ll excuse the pun, a walk in the park.

Currents of Doom

Prevailing currents that sweep northward along the California, Oregon and Washington coasts run headlong into the flank of Vancouver Island as it juts out into the Pacific. Running at speeds of as much as 5 km/h, The California Current intercepts the warmer Japanese Current just offshore, creating thick banks of fog while at the same time pinning all manner of flotsam and jetsam against the rugged coastline.

Flotsam and Jetsam

Above these colliding currents, offshore winds – often raging typhoons – tend to slam everything in towards the shoreline.

Dead Reckoning

Before the advent of steam, sailing ships needed plenty of room to manoeuvre under even the best of conditions. Unfortunately for many a doomed sailor the myriad rocks, islets, reefs and shoals left little room for anything once an error had been committed.

In the early days of B.C. shipping, finding the entrance to Juan de Fuca Strait on a fine, clear day could prove demanding. Locating the strait on a dark and stormy night was a daunting, often deadly task. Inaccurate navigational charts, a lack of navigational aids such as lighthouses, foghorns and beacons meant often near blind groping for the entrance at night in the worst possible weather. Little wonder that so many captains overshot Juan de Fuca Strait only to have their ships ravaged by the savage Graveyard of the Pacific.

Since 1854 some 70 or more ships big and small have been dashed to bits on the gnarly southwest coast of Vancouver Island. Over the decades hundreds have been killed. Some have been lucky, meeting death quickly and mercifully in the pounding, grinding surf. Those less fortunate met death slowly and excruciatingly. Spared a watery grave they huddled on wild beaches wet and cold, continually lashed by the elements, unable to kindle fire, too weak to find food until life slipped away with a shiver.

Countless others have been saved by the largely unacknowledged heroism of local natives. Time and time again the original inhabitants pulled survivors from the mayhem, provided shelter and food in the wilderness or ferried them as far away as Sooke and Victoria, at considerable personal risk, in their seaworthy dugout canoes. In 1906, following the loss of 126 lives from the steamer Valencia, Pachena Point Lighthouse and the West Coast Life-saving Trail were built. In addition to the rough-hewn trail, a network of rustic cabins and a telegraph line were constructed to support future shipwrecked survivors.

Lighthouse keepers and their ever-vigilant families played an increasingly important role as navigational aids were installed along the coast. Often running or rowing through many kilometres of darkness and storm, they were able to bring help to foundering vessels whenever the primitive telegraph lines failed.

Present day hikers on the West Coast Trail can scarcely conceive of the perils shipwrecked mariners faced. Often marooned in the harshest winter months, survivors had no broad avenues to follow, no suspension bridges, ferries or cable cars on which to cross rivers. There were no ladders up the sides of steep, greasy-slick ravines. Often survivors had no food, little clothing and even less hope. Yet against the odds many survived.

The Litter of History

Hikers today will encounter the old telegraph wire still hanging in trees. Rescue huts decay in the forests as boilers and anchors and broken chunks of iron and steel rust on the beaches. And in the sun, in the summer, it’s hard to image the hell that was the Graveyard of the Pacific.

Access

There are two ways of undertaking the West Coast Trail. From the south, starting at Port Renfrew, you can expect to get the worst over first, with your hike getting progressively easier as the days wear on. This northward route culminates in a pleasant, well-earned cruise along the Alberni Inlet from Bamfield to Port Alberni. The other possibility is start hiking from Bamfield (pop 400) undertaking the easiest sections while your backpack is heaviest. The theory is, your physical conditioning will gradually improve to meet the demands of an increasingly difficult route. The reality for those who try to undertake the West Coast Trail too quickly, however, is they may reach the difficult bottom end fatigued and stiff, heightening the potential for injury. The key, of course, is to allow plenty of time to drink in the sights and sounds. Backpacking should never seem to be a forced march. I have met those who try to undertake the trail as an overnighter, presumably just for the bragging rights. By any definition, doing so is sheer folly.

This book will detail access and egress to both trailheads north and south but will focus on a southward route description aimed at less experienced hikers.

Getting There

The West Coast Trail Express offers one-stop shopping for transportation to either end of the trail. A fleet of maxed-out minibuses delivers hikers daily from Victoria while those originating in Vancouver can intercept a Bamfield-bound bus in Nanaimo.

Northward Ho!

If you decide to follow the trail from Port Renfrew northwards to Bamfield the West Coast Trail Express costs $30 and leaves from in front of the Island Coach Lines bus terminal in Victoria at 700 Douglas Street arriving in Port Renfrew 2½ hours later. When you finish your hike the same transportation company will pick you up at Pachena Bay near Bamfield and return you to Victoria or Nanaimo for $50. If you would prefer to avoid the dusty logging roads on the return, Alberni Marine Transportation operates a ferry service between Bamfield and Port Alberni every day in the summer except Monday and Wednesday. The ferries MV Lady Rose or MV Frances Barkley make any number of whistle-stops at cabins and fish farms along the Alberni Inlet arriving invariably behind schedule. Fortunately, bus service from Port Alberni is frequent enough to be relied upon no matter how late the ferry returns. From the Public Quay where you will get your land legs back again, the bus terminal is a mere 10 minute walk. If you’ve had your fill of walking, grab a cab instead. From Port Alberni, Vancouver Island Coach Lines will deliver you to the connecting Maverick Coach Lines bus in Nanaimo for the final leg of the journey back to Vancouver.

Southward Ho!

If undertaking the trail in the recommended north-south direction, arriving in Bamfield by boat is logistically difficult though not impossible. The ferries leave Port Alberni at 8 am every Tuesday, Thursday, Friday, Saturday and Sunday, too early to be accessed directly by public transportation from Vancouver which arrives at 10 AM at the earliest. The only alternative would be to arrive in Port Alberni the day before then board the ferry at the Public Quay after a good night’s sleep at a nearby motel. Needless to say the logistics and cost of bus, accommodation and boat make this alternative hard to justify.

The West Coast Trail Express is both faster and cheaper, bumping and grinding its way over dirt roads from either Victoria or Nanaimo on a daily basis. Pick up in Nanaimo is at the Departure Bay Ferry Terminal at 8:45 every morning and costs $50. You’ll have to be on the first ferry [6:30 AM] from Horseshoe Bay in order to connect. [Click for details on getting to Horseshoe Bay .]

Reservation System

The recreation potential of the West Coast Trail area was recognized as long ago as 1926 when it was formally set aside as a park reserve by the provincial government. Ulterior designs on the land and its forests by the logging lobby were enough to convince the government to rescind the reserve designation in 1947. The West Coast Lifesaving Trail was simply too remote for recreational use they argued. In spite of the poor condition of the trail word gradually spread of this natural wonder until, in the 1960s, the federal government persuaded its provincial counterpart to set the land aside for broader usage. Pacific Rim National Park was born in 1970 and from that point forward recreational use exploded. By the 1990s recreational overuse, not the logging interests, was threatening the very wilderness values along the West Coast Trail so revered by users. In 1992, for the first time, a quota was imposed limiting the number of hikers that could enjoy the trail. Though trail beds, bridges and camping facilities including outhouses have steadily improved, hiker impact on the ecosystem has continued to grow causing regular reductions in the annual quota. At present only 26 users may access the trail daily from each trailhead. Twenty of those must have reservations while just six hikers are allowed on the trail from the often extensive waiting lists at Gordon River near Port Renfrew or Pachena Bay near Bamfield. Permits are issued to those on the waiting lists daily at 1 PM. Reservations can be made up to 90 days in advance but because of the demand reservations are usually gobbled up within minutes of becoming available. Those who show up at the trailhead can expect to wait for several days before getting on the trail. Those with reservations must pay a $25 reservation fee while all users must pay a $70 user fee at the trailhead and must carry a park use permit at all times while on the trail. The permit must be returned when leaving the trail. In addition to trail upkeep, the user fee pays for regular rescue patrols, pre-trail orientation, and each user receives a waterproof map and tide chart.

Parks Canada does not allow camping in the vicinity of either trailhead. Those on the waiting list can find commercial camping on adjacent Indian land. The Huu-Ay-Aht Band at Pachena Bay charges $18 per night for a campsite while the Pacheenaht Band at Gordon River levies a fee of $3 per night for each tent. Some hikers resent paying to wait just to get on the trail. Keep in mind, however, that the trail cuts through Indian land at many points and without the blessing of all three local bands, hiking the trail would not be possible at all. Wherever you may be recreating it is always a good idea to try to support the local economy in some small way either through the purchase of provisions, local transportation services, tacky tourist T-shirts, or even just a cheese burger in paradise. Those making a living from the recreational trade will prove to be invaluable allies if push ever comes to shove in the myriad land-use battles that define outdoor recreation in British Columbia.

Since inexperience is by far the greatest danger in wilderness situations Parks Canada staff have sought to improve the kind of information each trail user receives. Consequently all West Coast Trail users must now undertake an orientation session prior to starting the trail. Orientations are offered daily at each trailhead at 9:30 AM, noon, 1:30 PM and 3:30 PM. Given the importance Parks Canada places on accurate information it seems somehow ironic that whenever I’ve called as either a hiker, guide or as an author I have received inaccurate information or could not find answers to my questions at all. Parks staff will try to dissuade hikers from harvesting seafood of any kind in Pacific Rim National Park of which the West Coast Trail is part. The fact remains however that doing so is entirely legal, subject to the laws of the province of British Columbia. A fishing license is of course necessary and catch limits must be adhered to. For two good reasons it is better to sample fruits de mer than feast on them. The obvious reason is to limit the impact visitors to the area have on marine life. The second reason is to limit the impact, including death, that marine life may have on visitors to the area. Paralytic shellfish poisoning or red tide is a seasonal toxin associated with all bivalve molluscs that can cause paralysis and death. Pigging out on mussels, clams, oysters and other species of shellfish could have dire consequences even when an area is officially open to harvesting. If intending to harvest seafood contact the red tide hotline [see info grid, page 140] before setting off on the West Coast Trail.

Every morning and every evening Parks Canada staff patrol offshore in red or gray inflatable zodiacs. Those with injuries or requiring assistance can flag the boats down at any of the following preferred evacuation sites:

Pachena Lighthouse Carmanah Lighthouse Camper Bay

Tsocowis Creek Cullite Cove Thrasher Cove

Nitinat Narrows Logan Creek

Being, as the Boy Scouts say, prepared is the single most important thing you can do to make your trip to the West Coast Trail a safe and enjoyable one. The trail is first and foremost a wilderness one. Bring enough food for an extra day should accident or incident demand it. Wear clothing that allows you to stay cool yet protects your skin on hot summer days. When it rains it pours on the West Coast of Vancouver Island and rain it does even in the summer months. Average annual rainfall is 120 mm. Clothing that keeps you dry and warm is just as essential. Cheap backpacks, sleeping bags, tents and footgear can cost you dearly. More than anything pack your common sense along with your toothbrush and you’ll meet the elements evenly matched.

Sundew <<->> The West Coast Trail