Tag Archives: Cycle Touring

Steveston Via West Dyke Trail

Terrain: Flat

Traffic: None

Season: Year Round

Distance: 11 km o/w

Access: Take the Canada Line to Aberdeen Station in Richmond, exiting from the north end of the station. Follow Cambie Road westward for a single block to gain access to the dykes that encircle the city of Richmond. Though only a block away, the traffic is a horror show around here. Just stay on the sidewalk. If your group has children in it, play it safe and walk bikes to the trail atop the embankment.

This route is not part of the original BC Car-Free guidebook.

Out in the Toolies: A patch of tule fringes the marshland along the West Dyke Trail. Tule [pronounced “tooly”], was harvested and woven into mats by Coast and Interior Salish. Tule mats had a wide variety of uses from roofing materials for seasonal camps to flooring and drying mats. The term “in the toolies”, meaning far from civilization, is derived from this hardy sedge.

Garry Point Park: Situated where the Fraser meets the sea, a kite enthusiast prepares to launch on a blustery day.

Steveston Quay: Prawns offered for sale at dockside.

Snowy Owls <<->> Stinging Needles

 

Barnston Island

Terrain: Access Hilly; Destination Flat

Traffic: Access Heavy; Destination Very Light

Season: Year Round

Distance: 29.5 km r/t

Access: From the north end of King George SkyTrain station follow 100 A Avenue for 5 km east until it ends at 160th Street. From there, turn left [north] and continue to 104 Avenue less than a kilometre away. This intersection is a confusing one due to the convergence of overpasses and on ramps related to TransCanada Highway 1. The most obvious overpass is poorly set up for cyclists though a narrow walkway on the bridge separates cyclists and pedestrians from the excessively heavy traffic here. Slightly east of that is a more accommodating overpass but either will do in a pinch. Cross the highway then continue eastward along 104 Avenue to the Barneston Island ferry just shy of four kilometres away.

This route is not part of the original BC Car-Free guidebook.

Note: Avoid taking the more direct route along 104 Avenue from Surrey Central SkyTrain station. The traffic along this route is excessive with many large commercial vehicles. At a minimum ride on the sidewalk and enjoy the fumes from a safe distance.

The inhabitants of Surrey are completely brainwashed to the automobile-centric ethos of the mid-20th century. That mindlessness is reflected in decision making at the municipal level and naturally extends to the city engineering department where establishing a bike route means posting a green sign with a bicycle on it. Inexplicably, posted bike routes suddenly disappear at key intersections then reappear again somewhere down the road as if to suggest most cyclists are equipped with personal teleporting devices. We aren’t.

Jerry Rig: The ferry — a barge and a tug lashed together — to Barnston Island takes just a few minutes and costs nothing.

To avoid the urban sprawl and suburban hideousness that Surrey is infamous for, it is possible to get closer to your destination by transferring to a bike-rack-equipped bus at Gateway SkyTrain Station. Board at Bay 4 at the south end of the station. The #501 Langley Centre bus will take cyclists, or those who prefer walking, to within 1.5 km of the ferry slip. Get off the bus immediately after it crosses the TransCanada Highway and follow 176th Street north to 104 Avenue. Be forewarned: the landscape hereabouts is industrial, as is the traffic. A right turn on 104 Avenue will take you a few short steps to the ferry. The bus runs from five in the morning until after midnight at half-hour intervals for most of the day with more frequent service during rush hour.

The ferry to Barnston Island takes just a few minutes and operates continuously M – F 6:20 AM – 11:55 PM and Sat – Sun 6:20 AM – 12:55 PM. There is no charge for this service operated on contract with the BC Ministry of Transportation and Infrastructure by Western Pacific Marine.

You’ll immediately note an agrarian whiff in the air upon landing at Barnston Island. In addition to some 150 residents of the human kind, Barnston Island is home to countless cattle, horses and goats. Avalon Dairy, the BC’s first organic milk producer, has a significant operation here. Opus Cranberries is a major supplier to the Ocean Spray brand, helping to establish BC as the second largest grower of the pleasantly tart fruit in North America. The annual cranberry harvest at the end of September is as visually stimulating as the berries are flavourful.

Whether in Vain: This weather vane on Barnston Island aims for the stars.

Inclusion in the province’s Agricultural Land Reserve has so far preserved the rural nature of Barnston Island though certain elements among the residents are bent on having that land-use restriction lifted. The pressures of greed are great; expect a catastrophe of the condominium kind at some point in the island’s future. In the meantime enjoy the pastoral ride.

Barnston Island was named after George Barnston, a member of the Hudson’s Bay Company team that founded Fort Langley nearby in 1827.

From the ferry dock a route counterclockwise around the island passes barns, silos and discarded tractors and other farm implements. A screen of trees mercifully obscures much of the industrial development and log booming operations along the shore of North Surrey. Within a few kilometres the road cuts through Katzie Indian Reserve Number Three. The road here is a little more fractured, enough so that a delicate road bike might be rattled to the core.

A farmhand on Barnston Island wades through a corral of colourful cranberries.

At Mann Point, the easternmost tip of the island, the route hugs the main channel of the mighty muddy Fraser River. For much of the way the view opens up, embracing the Golden Ears peaks in the distance and the eponymous suspension bridge at mid-ground. The foreground is littered with condo developments along the opposite bank in the Pitt Meadows.

Though Barnston Island has none of the commercial retailing often associated with popular recreation destinations, the northern tip of the island has a pit stop in the form of Robert Point Rest Area. Nothing fancy here: a washroom, a few picnic tables and access to the river shore from which tugboats may be observed hauling log booms to nearby mills. There is no potable water on the island so be sure to bring your own. The ferry dock lies a mere 1.8 km south of Robert Point.

At 9.8 km, a circle tour of the island is certainly walkable. Shutterbugs will find much in this pastoral microcosm during any season.

Back in Surrey, the return journey is largely uphill though not overly so. If running low on water there is a convenience store at 168th Street and 104 Avenue just over 2 km away from the ferry dock.

Bald Eagles <<->> The Tree to Sea Loop

 

San Juan Islands – San Juan Island

Terrain: Hilly

Traffic: Moderate

Season: Year Round

Distance: 72 km

Access: See section intro Getting to The San Juan Islands.

San Juan Island is the last of the four big islands in the San Juan Group that draw thousands of cyclists every year. The terrain and length of the cycling circuit, 72 km, is similar to that of Orcas though the scenery is far more diverse.

The island is unique in that rudimentary public transit exists, reaching most points of interest as it loops around the island on a 40 minute schedule. As a consequence, those not willing or able to explore the island on two wheels can do so on foot.

Campgrounds abound on San Juan Island but still arriving without reservations during high season is not recommended. The ideal place to set up a tent is San Juan County Park. Situated midway along the west coast of the island, cyclists can set up a base camp from which to explore the 41 km southern half of the island one day and the shorter, 31 km opposite end the next. Though San Juan County Park officially has only 11 individual campsites and no water, dozens more can pre-empt a piece of turf in the group campground. Bottled water and a few other essentials can be purchased in the park store. The real reason San Juan County Park is so popular has little to do with its amenities or lack thereof. Rather, orcas plying the waters of Haro Strait can often be seen from the foreshore and the bluffs overlooking Smallpox Bay. From the ferry slip Beaverton Valley Road provides the most direct access to the campground.

San Juan Island is the island of choice for cetacean watching. The Whale Museum in Friday Harbor is a must-see. Many commercial whale watching packages include a stop at the public education facility as part of the tour. As part of its ongoing research, the museum maintains a toll-free hotline (1-800-562-8832) for reporting whale sightings. Confirmed recent sightings are then noted on the museum’s website at the Whale Museum.

From May through September each year more than 80 individual orcas in 3 pods take up residence in the waters of the San Juan Islands. Attracted by Canadian salmon returning to the Fraser River via American waters the orcas and their smaller cousins, Dall’s and Harbor porpoises, are a delight to thousands of vacationers. Though the population of the Southern Resident Community has remained stable for several decades the Canadian government declared the orcas “threatened” in 1999 due to concerns about pollution, growing maritime traffic and, particularly, over-fishing by American commercial interests.

Whale watching excursions come in many flavours from 60 foot motor cruisers, zippy, little zodiacs and kayak-based paddle tours. And while joining a tour may offer a certain amount of certainty doing so is certainly not necessary. The favourite location for land-based whale watching is just 4 km south of San Juan County Park at Lime Kiln Point State Park. The site of Lime Kiln Lighthouse since 1919, the rocky bluffs here provide the best vantage anywhere for viewing orcas, minke whales and porpoises. If statistics are anything to go by, in past mid-summers orcas passed by at least once a day 77% of the time. On a typical summer day foraging cetaceans may pass by several times. Plan on a picnic and several hours spent lounging in the sunshine to catch a glimpse. The decrepit kilns at the park attest to a once thriving lime industry on the island.

Continue exploring southward on scenic West Side Road. If you reach False Bay, 8½ km further on, at low tide plan on getting muddy while exploring the extensive tidal flats. Sandals or a pair of neoprene beach booties will save your costly cycling shoes from the ravages of salt water.

Near the southern entrance to False Bay the Pedal Inn campground caters exclusively to the cycling set. This is a full-service, private campground that features 25 walk-in sites, pay showers, laundry facilities and even a limited supply of groceries.

Unlike other destinations in the San Juan Islands, the archipelago’s namesake offers generous access to the waterfront for landlubbers. The peddling public can thank a potato pilfering porker for this happy state of affairs. The slaughter of a Hudson’s Bay Company pig in 1859 by an American settler sparked a controversy that became known as the “Pig War.” As tensions heightened British and American forces set up encampments at opposite ends of the island. More about boundaries than bacon, the border war fortunately was never fought. Instead the dispute was eventually arbitrated by Wilhelm I of Germany. The Kaiser ruled in favour of the American claim to the pork and the British finally cleared out in 1872. Both garrisons are now national historic parks. Nearly the whole southern end of the island is devoted to the San Juan Island National Historical Park’s American Camp. Interpretive history displays with staff dressed in period costumes, extensive beaches and easy hiking trails are the legacy of one time bilateral belligerence. A succession of low rocky headlands and crescents of sand comprise the shore south of the interpretive displays. These finally give way to 3 km long South Beach. The whole public foreshore extends nearly 6 km. Flanking the American Camp, Eagle Cove to the west and Cattle Beach picnic area to the east provide additional points of access. The former is a popular swimming hole while the latter features a lighthouse overlooking San Juan Channel.

On the opposite side of the peninsula a 5 km trail follows the shore of Griffin Bay as far as an inaptly-named cove called Fish Creek before looping back through grassy pastures and over the knoll called Mount Finlayson. En route look for feral rabbits grazing at the edge of forest cover. The bunnies, which once reached a population of over a quarter of a million, are thought to be descendants of livestock brought to the island by 19th-century settlers.

Stay with Cattle Point then Argyle Road to return directly to the commercial heart of the island. Friday Harbour is 10 km up island. For a less direct approach take a 5 km detour looping first along Pear Point Road and then back via Turn Point Road to experience more of the island’s charming waterfront. On the way expect to encounter popular Jackson Beach, a small spit of sand adjacent to a cannery. Further along a small beachfront picnic site will be found opposite Turn Island Marine State Park.

Friday Harbour, the largest community in the San Juans, bustles with gift and craft shops, cappuccino bars and restaurants of every variety. Yet in spite of the trend towards commercialization in recent years Friday Harbour still retains much of its rural ambiance. In addition to the aforementioned Whale Museum, Friday Harbor boasts a historical museum as well. The San Juan Island Historical Museum is housed in a 19th-century farmhouse furnished and refurbished to the standards of the day.

To continue exploring the highways and by ways of the northern end of the island leave the Friday Harbor on the Roche Harbor Road. Within 7 km you’ll reach marshy Sportsman Lake, a favourite haunting ground of birders.

Lakedale Campground, just a click and a half further down the road, will strike terror into the very heart of every solitude-seeking cyclist. The commercial campground boasts 120 sites, 10 of which are dedicated to cyclists. Visitors can enjoy the full range of services including pay showers, a well-supplied grocery store, canoe and rowboat rentals and even,of all things, pay fishing.

Seclusion of sorts can be found way off the beaten track at the Reuben Tarte Picnic Area at the northwest corner of the island. Birders and scuba divers in particular are drawn to the quiet beachfront here. Historic Roche Harbour Resort boasts bed and board fit for the heads of state, or fit, at least, for American Presidents Teddy Roosevelt and William Howard Taft who both stayed at the venerable waterfront lodge. The opulent resort was once home to a bustling community of lime makers. Even if ostentation is not your thing the historic buildings and the lime kilns and quarry operations should not be overlooked. Roche Harbour was once the west coast’s largest lime producing operation with an output of 15,000 barrels of lime daily.

To reach the second half of the San Juan Island National Historical Park follow West Valley Road south for 6 km from Roche Harbor. Many of the original buildings still exist at English Camp. In addition to historical displays visitors can enjoy two pleasant hikes at English Camp. One excursion winds for just a click and a half around Bell Point, following the shoreline of Garrison Bay and Westcott Bay through an landscape dominated by arbutus and fir. The second trail, somewhat longer and steeper, climbs past the British Cemetery to the summit of Mount Young. For good reason the British kept a lookout posted on the 180 metre peak. As now, observers then could enjoy a panorama encompassing the whole San Juan-Gulf Islands archipelago, extending as far as the Olympic Mountains to the southwest and Mt. Baker to the east while watching for the approach of menacing ships. Round trip to the top is 3 km.

The final stop on our circle tour of San Juan Island is Snug Harbor Resort on Mitchell Bay. Though catering to the yachting set, camping, groceries and water may be of interest to cyclists as well. San Juan County Park is just 3 km further along.

From San Juan Island hop on board the ferry once more, this time headed back for Sidney, B.C. on Vancouver Island. If intending to continue exploring this archipelago by bicycle you will no doubt find the name, the country and even the atmosphere has changed. Now called the Gulf Islands, the pace of life seems to slow considerably. As actively as tourism has been pursued in the San Juans, it has been shunned by many who have come to the Gulf Islands seeking peace and an escape from the hurley burly of the complex modern world.

San Juan Islands - Orcas Island <<->> Bird Watching Introduction

San Juan Islands – Orcas Island

Terrain: Hilly

Traffic: Heavy

Season: Year Round

Distance: 77 km

Access: See section intro, Getting to The San Juan Islands.

Campgrounds, B & B’s and vacation resorts abound on Orcas Island. In fact, the only thing more plentiful is the number of tourists who invade the island every summer. For that reason dropping in without reservations during high season is pure folly. If camping out it will be necessary to cycle from the ferry terminal across island for 20 to 30 km fully laden with gear. With the exception of the private campground at West Beach Resort on the northwest corner of Orcas Island, most camping will be found on the eastern half of the Island. Unlike the previous two islands, Orcas Island is a rugged, mountainous rock with many hills to be overcome. Demanding, yes, but most certainly worth it.

Being a mecca for vacationers, Orcas Island, boasts a profusion of services. Restaurants, groceries and the like are usually just around the next corner.

From the ferry follow the aptly named Horseshoe Highway around Eastsound, the deep fjord which nearly severs Orcas Island in two. A longer, alternative route follows White Beach Road and Dolphin Bay Road around the shoulder of Mt. Woolard enabling cyclists with gonzo thigh muscles to avoid a good portion of the busy Horseshoe Highway. Pause for a well-earned moment of reflection at marshy Killebrew Lake. While RV camping is allowed here tents are not as there are no facilities of any kind.

The village of East Sound at the head of the like-named waterway is the urban centre of Orcas Island. Stock up on provisions here, get bikes fixed if necessary and plan a visit to the Orcas Island Historical Museum. Housed in six log cabins dating to the island’s pioneer era, the museum features displays of first nations culture as well as that of the settlers who supplanted them.


Orcas Island is rich in architectural history as well. Many of the island’s resorts were originally constructed according to Victorian-era models as hideaways for Seattle’s hoi polloi. The Orcas Hotel above the ferry terminal dates from the opening moments of the last century while the Post Office at Deer Harbor commenced operations in 1883. Rosario Resort got its start of in 1904 as the residence of industrialist and former Seattle mayor Robert Moran. Much of the wealthy ship builder’s estate was eventually donated to the state park system. Moran State Park is the result of that generous act of philanthropy.

Madrona Point, named for the arbutus trees which flourish on the rocky bluffs there, once served as a burial ground for the local Lummi Indians. Less than half a kilometre from East Sound, Madrona Point is an ideal spot from which to enjoy lunch and south-facing views overlooking Eastsound. As with the rest of the San Juan Islands, legal access points to the foreshore can be few and far between. Just east of Madrona Point, at the foot of Lover’s Lane, Fishing Bay Waterfront Park provides additional access to the beach overlooking Indian Island. The first campgrounds along Horseshoe Highway will be found on the shores of Cascade Lake in Moran State Park. There are two additional campgrounds higher up at Mountain Lake while walk-in sites are located in between. Altogether there are 166 campsites spread through five separate campgrounds within the park including 15 sites set aside specifically for cyclists and those who arrive without motor vehicle transportation. Those who arrive without reservations can only count on misery.

For camping with an ocean view try the Obstruction Pass Campground just beyond the settlement of Olga. Just nine campsites, all without water, populate this tiny timbered point. Designed specifically for kayakers, cyclists and hikers, there are no drive in campsites. The rocky bluffs and gravel beach are ideal vantage points from which to toast the setting summer sun.

A further 10 walk-in campsites can be found on the shores of Doe Bay. Even when full, wayward cyclists can usually find a foothold somewhere on the property. More than a campground, organic cooking, whole earth crafts and rustic accommodation make Doe Bay Resort perfect for groovin’ on a sunny afternoon. A relaxing, au naturel dip in the mineral hot tub is de rigueur. Be sure to wear some flowers in your hair.

The high point of Orcas Island- literally – is Mount Constitution. On an exceptionally clear day Mt. Baker, Mt. Ranier and even Vancouver, B.C. are visible from the stone observation tower at the 734 m summit. The truly gung-ho may want to try cycling up the road to the top of Mt. Constitution. Hiking is the recommended approach. Altogether Moran State Park has 50 km of hiking trails suited to nearly every ability level. Extending from sea level at Rosario and connecting both Cascade Lake and Mountain Lakes, a network of trails continues via Twin Lakes to reach the mountaintop. Very few trails are open to terrain-crunching mountain bikes.

Leave enough time on your return to the ferry landing to finish your explorations of the western half of the island. A thin sliver of beach is accessible at the end of North Beach Road near the island’s air strip. To avoid retracing your route follow a circuitous route along the Enchanted Forest Road, Crow Valley Road and Deer Harbor Road to visit West Sound village and historic Deer Harbor. Birders may spot something out of the ordinary at the Frank Richardson Wildlife Preserve. Follow Sunset Beach Road to reach the eight hectare marsh.

San Juan Islands - Shaw Island <<->> San Juan Islands - San Juan Island

San Juan Islands – Shaw Island

Terrain: Flat

Traffic: Light

Season: Year Round

Distance: 22 km

Access: See section intro, Getting to The San Juan Islands.

At 20 square kilometres, Shaw Island is the smallest, least developed of the San Juans. A general store, a historical society museum and a county campsite comprise the amenities on Shaw Island. The cycling circuit is a mere 22 km of well-paved country roads from which you’ll glimpse virgin stands of timber, historic farms and an active commercial salmon fishery. You may even want to scout the beach for agates at South Beach County Park [(206) 468-2580.]

Arrive early at Shaw Landing and head directly for the only campsite on the island. If in need of provisions pause for a moment after disembarking from the ferry. The general store at Shaw Landing is the only place on the island where groceries can be procured. Be forewarned that, since the Little Portion store is operated by a group of Franciscan nuns, it remains closed on Sundays.

To reach the park follow the road around the head of Blind Bay, turning left upon reaching Squaw Bay Road. South Beach County Park, about a kilometre further on, sadly has just 12 tents sites. If you find it full you may wish to do a quick circuit of the island then catch the ferry onward to Orcas Island in the afternoon. Those who crave a certain amount of solitude far from the hurly burly of other more tourist-infested campgrounds will find South Beach County Park a sheer delight however. The south-facing beach, a crescent of fine sand and gravel nearly a kilometre long, winds around the peninsula along the east side of Indian Cove and into Squaw Bay. Enjoy taking long walks, beachcombing and observing the abundant shore birds here as the rest of the foreshore of Shaw Island is off-limits due to the tyranny American real estate law. The shore at the western end of the island is a nature preserve.

Cyclists are limited to exploring the rural nature of inland Shaw Island rather than the maritime features ringing it. From South Beach County Park continue along Squaw Bay Road making a right at Hoffman Cove Road. At the island’s principal intersection you’ll find the Little Red Schoolhouse which still operates as a one-room school for the children of Shaw Island’s 163 year-round residents. Kitty-corner to the historic school a log cabin serves as the island’s museum. Visitors are welcome every Monday and Saturday.

Continue peddling north along the Ben Nevis Loop Road turning right where it rejoins Blind Bay Road. If time allows follow Neck Point Road 5 km out and back for more of Shaw Island’s pleasant rural landscape. If unable to camp over on Shaw Island follow Blind Bay Road all the way back to the ferry landing. A short detour along Smugglers Cove Road reveals more of the island’s foreshore. Smuggling, incidentally, has a long history throughout the San Juan Islands. A myriad of islands and heavy maritime traffic have made eluding interdiction easy. Illegal immigrants from China, wool, whisky and, to this day, British Columbia’s fine hemp products, have all found their way into the States from its neighbour to the north via these waters.

Desolation Sound <<->> San Juan Islands - Orcas Island

San Juan Islands – Lopez Island

Terrain: Fairly Flat

Traffic: Light

Season: Year Round

Distance: 53 km

Access: See section intro, Getting to The San Juan Islands.

Since pedalling Lopez Island’s 53 km circuit is easy, cyclists will have plenty of time to explore the foreshore, stop for a refreshing dip in Hummel Lake or photograph the ample agricultural artifacts of the island’s frontier era. Farming continues to be the principle industry here.

While there are numerous inns and B & B’s to choose from venture not to Lopez without reservations. Most rooms throughout these islands are booked up as much as 6 months in advance. Campers too may find both Spencer Spit State Park and Odlin County Park full to bursting during the high season summer months.

From the ferry both of the island’s campgrounds are nearby. Since campgrounds throughout the San Juan Islands fill up fast, securing a campsite should be a high-priority. Setting up camp early not only reserves a spot for the night, but allows you to leave behind most of your gear. Of course valuables such as camera and cash should never be left unattended. Neither park on Lopez Island has showers so embark on a clockwise tour around the island, ending up towards the end of the day in the Fishermen Bay – Lopez Village area where showers, laundry and provisions can all be had.

Odlin County Park, on the sunset side of the island, is just 1½ km from the ferry dock. Altogether Odlin County Park boasts 30 campsites and a sandy beach overlooking Upright Channel. With luck, one of the more secluded beachfront bicycle campsites will be available. If full, sprint across to the sunrise side via Port Stanley Road to Spencer Spit State Park. The park can accommodate 49 groups, including 18 walk-in campsites for cyclists and kayakers above the beach.

To begin your explorations head down island towards Hunter and Mud Bays, avoiding Center Road, the island’s busiest, wherever possible. At the end of Islandale Road you’ll find a public wharf on the little peninsula separating both bays. Public access to the waterfront can be had further along Mud Bay Road and again near the end of Sperry Road. Unlike in Canada where 98 percent of all foreshore belongs to the Crown and is publicly accessible, in the U.S. most beaches are part of the private property above them and owners can and do enforce their ownership.

En route to the beach, at the corner of Mud Bay Road and Mackaye Harbor Road, you’ll find the Islandale Bicycle Rest, a small picnic area set aside for cyclists. Picnic tables, outhouses and shade have been provided for the comfort of the many two-wheeled tourists who visit Lopez each year. Not surprisingly water, that scarcest of commodities, is not available.

There are two more noteworthy points of waterfront access on the southeast corner of Lopez Island. Hughes Bay County Park off Watmough Head Road features a gravel beach at the bottom of a steep, wooden staircase. Mackaye Harbor Road leads to Agate Beach Picnic Area where again all the amenities except water are available. Working around to the west cyclists will find a boat launch at Mackaye Harbor and a public pier at historic Richardson. The latter was once a busy fishing and steamship port from which the island’s produce reached markets in Seattle.

From Richardson take Burt Road across island to reach the old-growth forest reserve at Shark Reef Recreation Area. Birders with an interest in waterfowl will want to set their sights on Hummel Lake while those captivated by predatory habits will find a variety of raptors but no sharks at Shark Reef Recreation Area. The old-growth sustains a variety of owls while the nation’s symbol can be found nesting in the topmost branches. Rather than a beach expect to find rocky shelves along the foreshore.

Shark Reef Road leads back up island past the local airport. Pick up Fisherman Bay Road to reach the island’s commercial heart. Along the way take a side trip down Bayshore Road to reach the narrow neck of land which separates Fisherman Bay from the more open waters of San Juan Channel. The road continues along the spit past the picnic area at Otis Perkins Park to eventually end at private property. A number of services related to maritime recreation as well as public laundry and showers facilities, a bike rental shop, restaurants, a dive shop and a motel can be found at the settlement of Fisherman Bay. Just minutes further along the road at Lopez Village groceries, public showers, accommodations, restaurants and even a museum will be found.

Lopez Road will take campers back to Odlin County Park while those staying at Spencer Spit State Park can follow Hummel Lake Road to return to camp. Fishermen can cast in the lake for trout and bass.

The Gulf Islands: Saturna Island <<->> Trincomali Channel

The Gulf Islands: Saturna Island

Terrain: Fairly Flat

Traffic: Light

Season: Year Round

Distance: 34 km

Access: See Getting to The Gulf Islands.

Saturna Island is hard to get to and the locals are usually content to keep it that way. With just 350 permanent residents to service, ferry sailings to the island are extremely limited. From Vancouver it is impossible to reach the morning sailing out of Tswwaasen by bus on any day except Saturday. Typically the second and last sailing occurs in the early evening which means visitors will arrive on Saturna at dusk or after dark with just enough time check-in. Since the ordeal is further complicated by stops at other islands and usually one transfer along the way, a trip to Saturna Island usually takes about three hours.

On a Friday for instance visitors could board the 6:30 PM ferry, arriving at around nine o’clock. They could then spend a full two days cycling and hiking then leave on the four o’clock boat on Sunday, arriving back in Tswwaasen by 7 PM. Due to the oddball schedule a simple day trip is out of the question.

The best way to reach Saturna Island is from one of the other Gulf Islands in the context of a longer, multi-day exploration of the archipelago. Visit Saturna last, then, after a day or two of exploration, return to the city on an early-morning run midweek or the late-afternoon one on the weekend. At times it may be practical to hop from one of the other Gulf Islands to Swartz Bay near Victoria then scoot over to Saturna.

Shuttle at Sunset: A flotilla of ferries big and small weaves the communities of Gulf Islands into the larger fabric of the province.

Finding a place to put up for the night is likewise complicated by Saturna Island’s overprotective populace. In spite of the fact that the provincial government ministry responsible for parks has long sought to open up its holdings at Winter Cove to camping, fierce local opposition has thus far prevented any such action. And while residents have valid concerns regarding forest fires or way-of-life the less patient among the recreating public sometimes chalk their motives up to mere selfishness. Certainly the self-interest of lodge and B & B owners is well-served by disallowing camping island-wide. A smaller, monied class of tourist is attracted while the budget traveller is discouraged from visiting Saturna by a lack of services. Parks, ferry deficits and infrastructure are all covered by general revenue however, so the island does not belong just to the Islanders. Currently there is no camping whatsoever on the island.

In spite of these controversies and hardships Saturna Island is well worth a visit, not least because the seasonal invasion of visitors that plagues other islands is noticeably absent in this out-of-the-way corner of the gulf.

The price of solitude may come higher but includes a shower. Reservations are a must as Saturna Island boasts just two lodges and a handful of B & Bs and becoming stranded during high season is a real possibility. Most of the B & Bs are located near the ferry terminal in the vicinity of Lyall Harbor, an obvious choice if arriving in the evening.

Saturna can be enjoyed by peddle, paddle and walking shoes.

Progress, in the form of Saturna Lodge, blasted its way onto the accommodation scene late last century. Not only does the luxury resort offer all of the usual facilities, it includes development of strata title condominiums and comes attached to coastal British Columbia’s first vineyard and winery. 1999 saw production of the first local vintage. Needless to say local wine figures prominently in the lounge and dining room. The lodge, with just seven rooms, overlooks Boot Cove off Payne Road.

At the very opposite end of both the island and the political spectrum, East Point Resort features six rustic housekeeping cottages and could not be more in keeping with the island ethos. Located on secluded beachfront with views overlooking Tumbo Island, East Point Resort also offers boat rentals for those interested in exploring the offshore islands. Fishing and crabbing off East Point is reportedly the best in the Gulf Islands.

All politics aside, to begin exploring Saturna Island follow East Point Road from the ferry landing at Saturna Point past the government wharf and community hall. The latter structure, built in 1933, serves as locus of a farmers market every Saturday all summer long. The commercial heart of the island lies three kilometres from the ferry at the crossroads of East Point Road, Narvaez Bay Road and Harris Road. Funky Saturna General Store is the place to stock up on groceries, wine and other necessities before proceeding into the hinterland. From the crossroads here East Point Road drops down to Sunset Boulevard which in turn leads a short distance to a small gravel beach at the head of Lyall Harbour. Not ready for a dip? Proceed uphill again for another four clicks to where East Point road suddenly veers right. Veer left instead to reach the waterfront at Winter Cove Provincial Marine Park just a kilometre away.

Top up with water here and set aside at least an hour to loop past marshes and shoreline north to the open waters of Georgia Strait. Tidal currents through Boat Passage, as the narrow gap between Saturna and Samuel Island is called, can reach in excess of 7 knots or 13 k/mh. From shore the turgid waters of Boat Passage are a sight to behold. From the cockpit of a kayak they are best avoided altogether though experienced paddlers may enjoy the thrill of shooting the chute. In a pinch the rocky point overlooking the passage can be portaged over.

As mentioned, 91 hectare Winter Cove Provincial Marine Park was at one time destined to be the site of a wilderness walk-in campground though local opposition put that idea on hold. Now it is the site of the annual Canada Day Lamb Barbecue. Imagine the carcasses of freshly slaughtered baby lambs roasting on giant skewers around a huge bonfire and perhaps you can picture this traditional event. Some may question why such a hedonistic bacchanal can occur on public lands while something as innocuous camping cannot. Direct your questions to BC Parks.

Back on the saddle, East Point Road will now take you for a 10.5 kilometre sprint along the northern coast of Saturna Island. You can expect to pass numerous points of beach access. The waters adjacent to Russell Reef in particular are ideal for swimming. At times the forest canopy arches over the road while at others tremendous vistas of Georgia Strait and beyond are revealed.

While there may be little or no traffic always pedal in single file as you never know what may come barrelling around the next corner. Six clicks into this coastal byway the road passes through native reserve lands. Shortly thereafter the final four kilometres of road becomes Tumbo Channel Road.

A federal light station dominates East Point. The beacon was established in 1888 following a shipwreck two years previously on Boiling Reef. Surrounded by a Regional Park since 1996, the grounds are now open to the public though the lighthouse remains off-limits. The bluffs hereabouts offer unobstructed views of the American San Juan Islands and beyond to distant Mt. Baker. Closer to shore the reefs and kelp beds just off East Point are a pelagic bird watchers’ paradise. Tidal currents which rip eastward through Tumbo Channel on both the ebb and the flood churn up feed for a myriad of species.

East Point is also considered the Gulf Islands’ best site for land-based orca watching. The whales, usually members of the K pod, are said to pass by nearly every day from May through November in their never-ending quest for salmon.

At the foreshore expect to find pebble and shell beaches edged by wind and wave-whipped formations of sandstone and conglomerate. Photo opportunities abound of course as do chances to explore the watery microcosms left behind as the tide recedes. Sun supplicants no doubt can find a secluded pocket beach on which to worship. Cliffside Road offers an alternative route for the return journey. As the 2.5 km road begins looping back to re-join the main road look for a trailhead on the left side of the road. Just three kilometres round-trip, this amble follows the rocky bluffs above Fiddlers Cove. The arid heights are typical Gulf Islands: sun-burnt meadows dotted with gnarled arbutus. As the trail passes through Indian reserve lands contact the joint owners for permission to enter prior to visiting. The Tsawout band office can be reached at (250) 652-9101 while the Tseycum Indian Band phone number is (250) 656-0858. Please respect the land and the spirit of any posted signs.

To explore other corners of the island return to Saturna General Store. Narvaez Bay Road leads 8 km through the heart of Saturna Island to the waterway named for Captain Jose Maria Narvaez of the Spanish schooner Saturnina in 1791. The island of course took its name from the sailing vessel which Narvaez commanded. The foreshore is inaccessible though the 16 click ride passes through pastoral scenery bereft of vehicle traffic. Look for deer grazing at the side of the road particularly at dawn and dusk.

Harris Road follows the valley bottom between Mt. Fighter and Mt. Warburton Pike. Those in the mood for a thigh burner should ascend Saturna’s highest mountain (490 m) via Staples Road. Be prepared to dodge both deer and feral goats while navigating the narrow dirt track. The latter are descendants of livestock brought to the island by the earliest homesteaders. To reach the summit of Mt. Warburton Pike on foot, park bikes at the end of Harris Road. A couple of trails emanate from here.

The course to the left leads to the aforementioned peak with its crown of TV towers and beyond to Brown Ridge Nature Trail. Eight kilometres round-trip, the cliffside route reveals a panorama extending from the nearby Pender Islands and southward to include the San Juan Islands and distant peaks in Washington’s Olympic National Park. As this hike passes over private property respect the privilege or lose it. Three-kilometre Quarry Trail also begins at the end of Harris Road. Setting out on a powerline right-of-way the route soon veers off to the right, dropping down to an unsurfaced road. Follow the road right to reach pretty Saturna Beach at Thompson Park. A left turn here leads to Saturna Island Vineyards where tours are offered daily from 11:30 AM to 4 PM June through October.

Arrive early at the ferry dock in preparation for the return voyage. While doing so will ostensibly ensure your passage on the infrequent vessel, more importantly it is a handy excuse to pay homage at the pub next door. The Lighthouse Pub is an ideal vantage point from which to survey the coast for approaching mariners while sampling the indigenous service, suds and supper.

The Gulf Islands: Saltspring Island <<->> San Juan Islands - Lopez Island

The Gulf Islands: Saltspring Island

Terrain: Very Hilly

Traffic: Heavy

Season: Year Round

Distance: 73 km

Access: See Getting to The Gulf Islands.

With more than 10,000 permanent residents spread over 180 square kilometres, Saltspring Island is the largest, most-populated of the Gulf Islands. As a consequence the island is well-serviced by BC Ferries. Direct service from the lower mainland is still abominable though, with only two sailings a day connecting Tsawwassen with Long Harbour on Saltspring. Both disembark late enough to reach by Translink, too late in fact for the early birds among us to catch any worms. The first sailing of the day usually leaves during late morning, sometimes even in the early afternoon. This would be a travesty if a workaround didn’t exist. Fortunately sailings bound for Swartz Bay near Victoria depart much more frequently: hourly during summer high season and every odd hour before June or after September.

Upon arrival in Swartz Bay turn around and immediately board another ferry, this time headed for Fulford Harbour on the southern end of Saltspring Island. These ferries operate at approximately 90 minute intervals taking just 35 minutes to shuttle across Satellite Channel. When purchasing your ticket in Tsawwassen ask for a “Throughfare Ticket” which gives you both ferries for the price of the ill-conceived direct route. Arriving in Fulford Harbour has the additional advantage of being handy to Ruckle Park, without a doubt the finest campsite in all of the Gulf Islands. For that reason the route as described in this book will start at the southernmost ferry terminal and work northwards. One further advantage of arriving in Fulford Harbour is the ready availability of both bicycle [Fulford Spokespeople: 250-930-2453] and kayak rentals. Upon arrival most traffic will follow the main road to the left around the head of the inlet. If planning on camping then head right on Beaver Point Road instead to reach Ruckle Provincial Park 10 clicks away. Peddling, paddling or even just hoofing it are all possibilities.

Note: if visiting Saltspring without wheels a rudimentary public transit system exists, connecting all three ferry terminals with most corners of the island. Click for details on the Salt Spring Island Transit System. Ruckle Park is NOT one of those corners however so either walking, hitching or taxi [$35; cash only] will be required to close the 10 km gap from Fulford Harbour. There are two taxi companies operating on the island:

* Amber Cab: 250-537-3277

* Silver Shadow Taxi: 250-537-3030

Acquired from the pioneering Ruckle family in 1974, the 480 hectare provincial park features interpretive displays of the original homestead, a working farm still owned by Ruckle descendants, 7 km of shoreline to explore and more than 70 walk-in campsites situated on grassy bluffs with stunning views overlooking Swanson Channel. As a bonus not a single site is available for the gas-guzzling RV set. On the downside, popularity means people and the campground can be packed on a summer long weekend; a good time to stay away. Consider visiting on the shoulder season or better yet in the dead of winter to experience the site in all its desolation. Ruckle Park is an ideal spot for storm watching if properly equipped. Reservations are not possible or necessary.

The Cow with the crumpled horn calls Ruckle Farm home. Highland cattle beef, wild turkeys, sheep’s wool, produce from an organic vegetable patch and heritage apples are just some of the agricultural products available for purchase from Ruckle Farm.

To begin exploring the island in earnest backtrack to Fulford Harbour or consider taking a shortcut along Steward Road. The latter leads through Peter Arnell Park to the Saltspring Island Hostel. Hosteling is a great alternative to camping especially for those travelling solo, enabling cyclists to lighten their load considerably while having the opportunity to meet other like-minded people. Cusheon Lake Road reconnects with the main thoroughfare, Fulford-Ganges Road, just beyond the lake for which it was named. A short, 1.8 km section of Steward Road is unpaved.

Saint Paul’s Church: The optimistic epitaph on the grave maker reads “We Will Meet Again.”

The long cut has its appeal too so back-peddle to Fulford Harbour. Just a kilometre from the ferry terminal charming Saint Paul’s Church, built in 1880, sits on a rise overlooking the harbour. Pause for pictures, picnic, or penitence but not for long. Why is it whenever we find a charming church in the Gulf Islands there is usually a pub lurking nearby? Contemplate that question over a frosty, frothy mug or two at Fulford Inn just down the road. The south island watering hole is actually equidistant from St. Paul’s and another church, Saint Mary’s, that was erected 6 years later. If planning to peddle in from Ruckle Park for a pint o’ bitter in the evening keep in mind that the park gate closes at sunset. Slamming into it in a suds-induced fog is no way to leave your mark on the island.

BC Transit Never Had It So Good: The bus stop at the junction of Isabella Point Road and Fulford-Ganges Road provides all the comforts of home.

Just across the street from the pub, Isabella Point Road leads to a number of secluded beaches and a little-used hiking route to the top of Mount Taum. Closer at hand take Musgrave Road to Drummond Park for a look at Saltspring’s most famous petroglyph. Thought by many to be the image of a seal, the rock carving was moved to its present location from the foreshore of Fulford Harbour. Musgrave Road, an unsurfaced service road, provides mountain-bike equipped riders with bone-crunching access to a number of hiking trails including Mount Taum, Hope Hill, and Bruce Peak. All boast panoramas overlooking the Gulf and San Juan Islands while only Hope Hill is without a collection of transmission towers on top. Hiking stats for each destination are listed below. Cars and trucks also ply the dusty access roads.

Destination Trailhead via Hiking Distance Elevation Ability

Hope Hill Musgrave 3.5 km 5 km r/t 648 m Moderate

Bruce Peak Musgrave 10 km 6 km 709 m Challenging

Mount Taum Taum Rd 13 km Negligible 602 m Easy

From Isabella Point Road Fulford-Ganges Road cuts 3 km across island, marching through open pasture land, verdant in spring, turning golden later on. Burgoyne Bay Road continues straight connecting up with the opposite shore 1.5 km away while the main drag climbs northwards up a long hill. On the straightaway up top look for Dukes Road to begin scrambling to the top of Baynes Peak. The other, more popular route to Mount Maxwell Provincial Park can be found a further click and a half towards Ganges. Turn left on Blackburn Road which leads past Blackburn Meadows, one of the island’s two 9-hole golf courses. Upon reaching Cranberry Road turn left and follow the signs ever upwards. All too soon pavement gives way to rough, secondary road. Since the route to the top is well-marked it is well-travelled as well. A handkerchief over the mouth may help ameliorate dust kicked up by approaching vehicles. Rather than biting dust, park your bikes at Saltspring Guided Rides instead and hoof it uphill on the back of beast. The riding stable will accommodate groups as small as two people. Baynes Peak is only a short distance from the end of the access road. Steep cliffs along the southern edges of the park present considerable danger while affording magnificent views of Fulford Valley, Burgoyne Bay and Vancouver Island beyond it. Step gingerly if fog grips the summit.

Waiting for the ferry at Fulford Harbour.

What goes up must come down but by all means maintain a controlled descent to avoid becoming a hood ornament. Stay with Cranberry Road to coast most of the way into Ganges. On the outskirts of town note Mouat Provincial Park on the left. Other than being central to all parts of the island and convenient to all manner of services, the campground has little to recommend itself. But then again, what was that they said about location, location, location?

Ganges is indeed the commercial heart of, not only Saltspring but, the whole chain of southern Gulf Islands. Visitors with the urge to consume will find more than enough quaint little gift shops and galleries and funky fashion boutiques to satiate even the most jaded consumer appetites. Cap off that buying spree by taking in the Saturday morning market at the oceanfront on Ganges Harbour. Candles, raku pottery, stained-glass, hand-woven goods, health and beauty concoctions and a cornucopia of organic produce from the island larder will be on display throughout the summer. During fall, in the run-up to xmas, a series of craft shows are mounted at different community halls around the island. Many of the goods are sold nowhere else in the world at no other time ensuring that your purchases are indeed unique. Visiting the island at that time of year is a great way to escape the city and wrap up that xmas shopping in one fell swoop. Many artists and artisans open their studios to the public every autumn as well. A complete listing of participating studios is published each year. Contact tourist information for details of both venues.

Salt Spring Market: Island artists and artisans congregate every Saturday April through October at Centennial Park at seaside in Ganges.

A quick walk-through Ganges village will encourage other appetites is well. Choosing from the breadth of cuisine offered by island eateries can be difficult. Notably, Moby’s Pub showcases island musical talent every weekend.

From Ruckle Park, Ganges is 23.5 km. From Fulford Harbour it is 14.5 km. Ganges and Long Harbour are six clicks apart while the loop around the north end of the island is 29.5 km. To embark on this latter circle tour leave the urban center behind via Lower Ganges Road. En route up island you’ll pass by the second golf course before reaching an intersection with Upper Ganges Road. Turn left here to reach Vesuvius Bay where Saltspring’s third ferry terminal will be found. The frequent shuttle scoots across Stuart Channel to Crofton on Vancouver Island. Those with time on their hands may want to consider looping back to Vancouver via Crofton, Chemainus and Ladysmith to Nanaimo where the ferries to Tsawwassen, Gabriola Island [p 148,] Newcastle Island [p 209] and Horseshoe Bay will be found. The Vesuvius Inn, famed for its sunsets, serves up drinks, dinner and darts daily. As the name suggests Sunset Drive reveals the orange orb as well while passing through a sparsely populated rural landscape. Just before reaching West Eagle Road you’ll pass the trailhead in to Channel Ridge, an easy 9 km return toddle into the local watershed. The foreshore at northern Southey Point is minuscule but Jack Foster Trail leads 2 km in to a secluded beach opposite Wallace Island. Look for the trailhead on the right after turning onto Southey Point Road. Loop around to North End Road to avoid retracing your steps. North End Road offers two possible routes for returning back down the island. The most direct route cuts down the middle of the island passing close to St. Mary Lake. Access to the lakefront is extremely limited however belonging to private residences or countless lodges and B & Bs. Turn off onto North Beach Road instead for an oceanfront route that provides plenty of beach access.

Salty Springs Resort, at the roadside here, is the only place on the island where the public has access to the artesian wells for which the island was named. Guests at the resort can enjoy a mineral bath supplied by one of the springs. Altogether 14 minerals springs have been identified at the northern end of the island, all on private land. The largest feeds a 25 m pond ringed with salt crystals. Incidentally, though the earliest settlers soon dubbed the island “Salt Spring,” it was officially known as Chuan Island in 1854, being renamed Admiral Island after Admiral Baynes in 1859. The name-meisters in Ottawa finally got with the program in 1905, creating the compound “Saltspring” out of the original. Baynes may have lost his title but was able to retain the mid-island peak as his own.

The lagoon created by a protruberance called Walker Hook can be accessed at the bottom of Fort Street. A good spot for launching kayaks, Walker Hook is the last point of access before the road veers inland again, making a beeline back to Ganges. Those planning to take the direct ferry back to Tsawwassen should turn off at Long Harbour Road.

On The Road Again: This little poult marches to the sound of a different drumschtick, eschewing the flock to explore well beyond the barnyard at Ruckle Farm.

The Gulf Islands: Pender Islands <<->> The Gulf Islands: Saturna Island

The Gulf Islands: Pender Islands

Terrain: Moderate – Hilly

Traffic: Light

Season: Year Round

Distance: 43 km

Access: See Getting to The Gulf Islands

Two ferries a day service the Pender Islands from Tsawwaasen and while departure times vary day to day there is always a morning sailing and an evening sailing. More importantly, all morning sailings can be reached via bus from downtown Vancouver. For precise details see Getting to The Gulf Islands.

Those not too keen on dragging a bike load of the gear around the island are in for some good news as well. Otter Bay Marina, around the corner from the ferry landing has tent sites, pay showers, coin laundry and groceries. Those arriving without bikes can even be accommodated with a limited number of rentals. While tent sites are far from ideal, they are indeed handy.

Garden Variety Bike: The seeds of change, planted long ago, bear fruit, cyclically speaking.

The Penders, North and South, were once part of the same wasp-waisted land mass. Rather than row around either end of the island, locals were in the habit of portaging over the narrow isthmus separating Browning and Bedwell Harbours. An accommodating federal government dredged a canal between the waterways in 1903 when traffic out and about the islands was decidedly of the maritime variety. As the local population grew, seeking more reliable land-based modes of transport they demanded a bridge. The provincial government responded, rejoining the islands again in 1955. Now both modes of transportation are accommodated with masted ships as tall as 8.5 m able to scoot under the overpass at high water.

More than 2500 people call the Penders home. The north island is by far the most settled of the two as pioneers began preempting land hereabouts in the 1800s, largely ignoring the more rugged southern end. The communities of Port Washington and Hope Bay retain a funked-up 19th-century air that is oddly reminiscent of the nearby American San Juan Islands. Groceries, crafts, fine arts and photo ops galore will present themselves as you explore this historic end of the island.

Huff and puff up the hill from the ferry terminal and turn left at Otter Bay Road to reach Port Washington 2.5 km away. On the way, golfers may be tempted by nine holes on the right side of the road. With extra tee offs for each hole and a clubhouse the truly determined can squeeze in a full 19.

At the outskirts of sleepy Port Washington note Old Orchard Farm, a Victorian homestead named for the historic fruit trees which annually yield more than 50 varieties of pear, apple and plum. Some species, delicious but not transportable, have all but disappeared in the modern world of agribusiness. Down by the government wharf false-fronted Port Washington store looks like a set from a western movie. At the end of the road turn right onto Bridges Road and loop around to a small pocket beach just minutes away. Or skip the loop to climb to the summit of George Hill instead.

To reach Hope Bay, 3 km away, two alternatives exist. The main drag, Port Washington Road, slides past Southridge Farms County Store while Clam Bay Road winds towards the coast through forested back road. The beach at Bricky Bay, where a brick works once stood, can be accessed via Coast Shale Road. Broken bits of red brick still litter the beach.

Farm houses dating from the 1890s and Hope Bay Store built in 1912 dominate the community of Hope Bay. Look for hidden treasures in the motley collection of clapboard shops near the dock. Locally fashioned clothing, jewellery, pottery and glassware are all offered up for discriminating buyers.

From Hope Bay follow Bedwell Harbour Road for 3 km down island past the oldest church on the island, a homestead dating from 1895 and the pioneer cemetery where the makers of early local history preempted their last bit of turf.

Just before reaching the local airstrip the road drops down through a steep s-turn, ending on a long straightaway. As traffic tends to bottleneck here, slowdown to avoid mishap. Near the end of the straightaway further traffic congestion may be found in the vicinity of Driftwood Centre where residents do much of their shopping. A supermarket, bakery, liquor store and laundromat provide the essentials of island existence. Visitors can browse the gift shops or have their questions answered at the tourist information centre. Be sure to check the bulletin board for the lowdown on upcoming shindigs. Homegrown music, theatre and dance productions are regularly mounted by the more expressive hereabouts. Everything but homegrown will be on sale every Saturday morning when islanders show up to show off their green thumbs and creativity at the Farmers’ Market. Seasonal veggies, herbs and fruit fresh from the farm are offered for sale alongside textiles, hand-painted stationery, dried flowers, pottery and much more. The herb superb? Ask around.

Just across from Driftwood Centre, Hamilton Road leads down to a beach of the same name and Bedwell Harbour Island Resort next door. All three marinas on the two Penders have facilities directed at the tenting public including tent sites, pay showers and coin laundry machines. The latter may come in handy if exploring several islands over many days. Camping in the open, grassy field edging the beach here can be a noisy affair with more of a carnival, than wilderness air but the sun deck, suds and pub food come highly recommended.

The more solitude-inclined will want to push 2 km further on, climbing the hill beyond Driftwood Centre to Prior Centennial Provincial Park where campers can seek refuge in the cool forest darkness. Unless arriving with reservations you are likely to find the campground full during the height of summer as its popularity far outstrips the meagre 17 campsites which are available. Though ideally situated for exploring the island, services are rustic when compared to the marinas. Pit toilets and a hand pump for water are the extent of the plumbing provided here. Please help conserve water whenever visiting the Gulf Islands as the elixir of life can be scarce on these arid rocks. For a change of pace dismount and follow the Heart Trail from the campsite to a low prominence overlooking Browning Harbour. The trail eventually connects up with a Minotaur’s labyrinth of roads, crescents and cul-de-sacs known collectively, sometimes derisively, as Magic Lake Estates. The 1960s real estate development sparked a fierce debate that eventually led to the creation of a political body called the Islands Trust in 1974. Much like a mayor and city council, the Trust tempers unbridled development through the creation of zoning bylaws throughout the Gulf Islands.

Though the residential neighbourhood could easily be skipped several notable beaches lie beyond. Head to either Thieves Bay or Shingle Bay on Swanson Channel for a dip of the salty variety or detour to the estate’s namesake to dunk your toes in freshwater instead. While at Magic Lake be sure to take in the Golf Island Disk Park too. BYOF. There are no green fees at the 18-pole frisbee fairway. A couple of other secluded beaches will be found in the vicinity of Peter Cove 5 km away at the far eastern end of North Pender.

One of the best beaches in the Penders is nearby at the head of Bedwell Harbour. Little-known Medicine Beach was obviously home to a sizable native Indian settlement as evidenced by the millions of broken clam shells strewn along the foreshore. Such “kitchen middens” are commonplace on the coast of British Columbia, mute evidence of the breadth of pre-European civilization. The saltwater marsh behind the midden, habitat for rare plants and a wide variety of waterfowl, is uncommon in the Gulf Islands. To reach Medicine Beach and the neighbouring convenience store from Prior Centennial Provincial Park leave Canal Road where it abruptly zigs to the left, continuing straight on Aldridge Rd. for a short distance to the junction of Schooner Way and Wallace Rd. Medicine Beach is on the left while the grocery store is on the right.

Zigging down Canal Road and zagging past the school and health center are necessary to continue exploring southwards. Hosteling aficionados should keep an eye out for the turn off to Cooper’s Landing which provides budget accommodations under the aegis of Hosteling International. Kayaking, canoeing, whale watching and scuba diving can all be undertaken through the facility. The turn off to Cooper’s Landing is just before the Canal Bridge on the left. Prior to becoming a shortcut for early pioneers, for 5000 years in fact before the arrival of a few hearty Spanish and British explorers, the isthmus was a safe haven for an extended family tribe of original inhabitants who flourished on the resource-rich west coast. Though much evidence of their habitation was destroyed when the canal was dredged, the midden, known as the Helisen Archeological Site, was thoroughly excavated in the 1980s.

On the opposite side of the bridge an immediate right on Ainslie Point Road provides access to hiking trails to the summit of Mount Norman or along the foreshore to Beaumont Provincial Marine Park. From the 260 metre summit of the former a panorama of the Gulf and San Juan archipelago is revealed. The latter hike leads to a secluded arc of sand and gravel along the shores of Bedwell Harbour. Tenting is possible but access is either on foot or by boat only. As campsites abound on the Penders save this delight for some future paddle trip.

Much more accessible, Mortimer Spit will be found to the left of Canal Road just seconds beyond the bridge. The peaceful crescent of gravel and shell has seen tragic times as well. The conquest of native populations throughout the New World was an often bloody affair. And while the taming of coastal British Columbia cannot be compared to the massacres which occurred throughout Latin America and the American Southwest it was not without its frictions either. In 1863 two white settlers camping on Mortimer Spit were set upon by three native men and a woman while they slept. In the ensuing fracas one of the settlers was killed while the other was wounded. White justice of course carried the bigger stick and the male natives eventually swung from a rope. Continuing down island, the next eight kilometres pass through a sparsely populated rural landscape. Just 10 percent of Pender residents live on the south island. A side trip down Boundary Pass Drive leads to Little Bay another pocket beach favoured by those seeking seclusion. From here to Bedwell Harbour the main route follows Spalding Road through mature coniferous forest before culminating in a series of steep turns leading down to the five star Bedwell Harbour Island Resort. Tenting is possible here too but is clearly a sideline as the resort complex boasts an onshore hotel, restaurant, pub, grocery store and houses Canada Customs depot for mariners arriving from across the border.

The final 3.5 km dash down island follows Gowlland Point Road through more forest landscape, past a couple of side roads to the beach. Craddock Road too leads to the the foreshore near Tilly Point, a spot popular with scuba divers drawn to a network of underwater caves. A gravel beach at Drummond Bay can be accessed by turning off on Higgs Road.

Gowlland Point is a favourite spot for winter storm watching or at any time when the sun is shining. Poking around tide pools and wave-carved caves, exploring the grassy headland above the beach or simply lazing in the sun are all just rewards for the long, 20 click pedal down island. The U.S. border is just two kilometres offshore. Small wonder that Pender Island was once the staging area for smugglers running whiskey and rum into the parched, prohibition-era San Juan Islands visible in the distance.

The Gulf Islands: Mayne Island <<->> The Gulf Islands: Saltspring Island