Terrain: Very Hilly

Traffic: Heavy

Season: Year Round

Distance: 73 km

Access: See Getting to The Gulf Islands.

With more than 10,000 permanent residents spread over 180 square kilometres, Saltspring Island is the largest, most-populated of the Gulf Islands. As a consequence the island is well-serviced by BC Ferries. Direct service from the lower mainland is still abominable though, with only two sailings a day connecting Tsawwassen with Long Harbour on Saltspring. Both disembark late enough to reach by Translink, too late in fact for the early birds among us to catch any worms. The first sailing of the day usually leaves during late morning, sometimes even in the early afternoon. This would be a travesty if a workaround didn’t exist. Fortunately sailings bound for Swartz Bay near Victoria depart much more frequently: hourly during summer high season and every odd hour before June or after September.

Upon arrival in Swartz Bay turn around and immediately board another ferry, this time headed for Fulford Harbour on the southern end of Saltspring Island. These ferries operate at approximately 90 minute intervals taking just 35 minutes to shuttle across Satellite Channel. When purchasing your ticket in Tsawwassen ask for a “Throughfare Ticket” which gives you both ferries for the price of the ill-conceived direct route. Arriving in Fulford Harbour has the additional advantage of being handy to Ruckle Park, without a doubt the finest campsite in all of the Gulf Islands. For that reason the route as described in this book will start at the southernmost ferry terminal and work northwards. One further advantage of arriving in Fulford Harbour is the ready availability of both bicycle [Fulford Spokespeople: 250-930-2453] and kayak rentals. Upon arrival most traffic will follow the main road to the left around the head of the inlet. If planning on camping then head right on Beaver Point Road instead to reach Ruckle Provincial Park 10 clicks away. Peddling, paddling or even just hoofing it are all possibilities.

Note: if visiting Saltspring without wheels a rudimentary public transit system exists, connecting all three ferry terminals with most corners of the island. Click for details on the Salt Spring Island Transit System. Ruckle Park is NOT one of those corners however so either walking, hitching or taxi [$35; cash only] will be required to close the 10 km gap from Fulford Harbour. There are two taxi companies operating on the island:

* Amber Cab: 250-537-3277

* Silver Shadow Taxi: 250-537-3030

Acquired from the pioneering Ruckle family in 1974, the 480 hectare provincial park features interpretive displays of the original homestead, a working farm still owned by Ruckle descendants, 7 km of shoreline to explore and more than 70 walk-in campsites situated on grassy bluffs with stunning views overlooking Swanson Channel. As a bonus not a single site is available for the gas-guzzling RV set. On the downside, popularity means people and the campground can be packed on a summer long weekend; a good time to stay away. Consider visiting on the shoulder season or better yet in the dead of winter to experience the site in all its desolation. Ruckle Park is an ideal spot for storm watching if properly equipped. Reservations are not possible or necessary.

The Cow with the crumpled horn calls Ruckle Farm home. Highland cattle beef, wild turkeys, sheep’s wool, produce from an organic vegetable patch and heritage apples are just some of the agricultural products available for purchase from Ruckle Farm.

To begin exploring the island in earnest backtrack to Fulford Harbour or consider taking a shortcut along Steward Road. The latter leads through Peter Arnell Park to the Saltspring Island Hostel. Hosteling is a great alternative to camping especially for those travelling solo, enabling cyclists to lighten their load considerably while having the opportunity to meet other like-minded people. Cusheon Lake Road reconnects with the main thoroughfare, Fulford-Ganges Road, just beyond the lake for which it was named. A short, 1.8 km section of Steward Road is unpaved.

Saint Paul’s Church: The optimistic epitaph on the grave maker reads “We Will Meet Again.”

The long cut has its appeal too so back-peddle to Fulford Harbour. Just a kilometre from the ferry terminal charming Saint Paul’s Church, built in 1880, sits on a rise overlooking the harbour. Pause for pictures, picnic, or penitence but not for long. Why is it whenever we find a charming church in the Gulf Islands there is usually a pub lurking nearby? Contemplate that question over a frosty, frothy mug or two at Fulford Inn just down the road. The south island watering hole is actually equidistant from St. Paul’s and another church, Saint Mary’s, that was erected 6 years later. If planning to peddle in from Ruckle Park for a pint o’ bitter in the evening keep in mind that the park gate closes at sunset. Slamming into it in a suds-induced fog is no way to leave your mark on the island.

BC Transit Never Had It So Good: The bus stop at the junction of Isabella Point Road and Fulford-Ganges Road provides all the comforts of home.

Just across the street from the pub, Isabella Point Road leads to a number of secluded beaches and a little-used hiking route to the top of Mount Taum. Closer at hand take Musgrave Road to Drummond Park for a look at Saltspring’s most famous petroglyph. Thought by many to be the image of a seal, the rock carving was moved to its present location from the foreshore of Fulford Harbour. Musgrave Road, an unsurfaced service road, provides mountain-bike equipped riders with bone-crunching access to a number of hiking trails including Mount Taum, Hope Hill, and Bruce Peak. All boast panoramas overlooking the Gulf and San Juan Islands while only Hope Hill is without a collection of transmission towers on top. Hiking stats for each destination are listed below. Cars and trucks also ply the dusty access roads.

Destination Trailhead via Hiking Distance Elevation Ability

Hope Hill Musgrave 3.5 km 5 km r/t 648 m Moderate

Bruce Peak Musgrave 10 km 6 km 709 m Challenging

Mount Taum Taum Rd 13 km Negligible 602 m Easy

From Isabella Point Road Fulford-Ganges Road cuts 3 km across island, marching through open pasture land, verdant in spring, turning golden later on. Burgoyne Bay Road continues straight connecting up with the opposite shore 1.5 km away while the main drag climbs northwards up a long hill. On the straightaway up top look for Dukes Road to begin scrambling to the top of Baynes Peak. The other, more popular route to Mount Maxwell Provincial Park can be found a further click and a half towards Ganges. Turn left on Blackburn Road which leads past Blackburn Meadows, one of the island’s two 9-hole golf courses. Upon reaching Cranberry Road turn left and follow the signs ever upwards. All too soon pavement gives way to rough, secondary road. Since the route to the top is well-marked it is well-travelled as well. A handkerchief over the mouth may help ameliorate dust kicked up by approaching vehicles. Rather than biting dust, park your bikes at Saltspring Guided Rides instead and hoof it uphill on the back of beast. The riding stable will accommodate groups as small as two people. Baynes Peak is only a short distance from the end of the access road. Steep cliffs along the southern edges of the park present considerable danger while affording magnificent views of Fulford Valley, Burgoyne Bay and Vancouver Island beyond it. Step gingerly if fog grips the summit.

Waiting for the ferry at Fulford Harbour.

What goes up must come down but by all means maintain a controlled descent to avoid becoming a hood ornament. Stay with Cranberry Road to coast most of the way into Ganges. On the outskirts of town note Mouat Provincial Park on the left. Other than being central to all parts of the island and convenient to all manner of services, the campground has little to recommend itself. But then again, what was that they said about location, location, location?

Ganges is indeed the commercial heart of, not only Saltspring but, the whole chain of southern Gulf Islands. Visitors with the urge to consume will find more than enough quaint little gift shops and galleries and funky fashion boutiques to satiate even the most jaded consumer appetites. Cap off that buying spree by taking in the Saturday morning market at the oceanfront on Ganges Harbour. Candles, raku pottery, stained-glass, hand-woven goods, health and beauty concoctions and a cornucopia of organic produce from the island larder will be on display throughout the summer. During fall, in the run-up to xmas, a series of craft shows are mounted at different community halls around the island. Many of the goods are sold nowhere else in the world at no other time ensuring that your purchases are indeed unique. Visiting the island at that time of year is a great way to escape the city and wrap up that xmas shopping in one fell swoop. Many artists and artisans open their studios to the public every autumn as well. A complete listing of participating studios is published each year. Contact tourist information for details of both venues.

Salt Spring Market: Island artists and artisans congregate every Saturday April through October at Centennial Park at seaside in Ganges.

A quick walk-through Ganges village will encourage other appetites is well. Choosing from the breadth of cuisine offered by island eateries can be difficult. Notably, Moby’s Pub showcases island musical talent every weekend.

From Ruckle Park, Ganges is 23.5 km. From Fulford Harbour it is 14.5 km. Ganges and Long Harbour are six clicks apart while the loop around the north end of the island is 29.5 km. To embark on this latter circle tour leave the urban center behind via Lower Ganges Road. En route up island you’ll pass by the second golf course before reaching an intersection with Upper Ganges Road. Turn left here to reach Vesuvius Bay where Saltspring’s third ferry terminal will be found. The frequent shuttle scoots across Stuart Channel to Crofton on Vancouver Island. Those with time on their hands may want to consider looping back to Vancouver via Crofton, Chemainus and Ladysmith to Nanaimo where the ferries to Tsawwassen, Gabriola Island [p 148,] Newcastle Island [p 209] and Horseshoe Bay will be found. The Vesuvius Inn, famed for its sunsets, serves up drinks, dinner and darts daily. As the name suggests Sunset Drive reveals the orange orb as well while passing through a sparsely populated rural landscape. Just before reaching West Eagle Road you’ll pass the trailhead in to Channel Ridge, an easy 9 km return toddle into the local watershed. The foreshore at northern Southey Point is minuscule but Jack Foster Trail leads 2 km in to a secluded beach opposite Wallace Island. Look for the trailhead on the right after turning onto Southey Point Road. Loop around to North End Road to avoid retracing your steps. North End Road offers two possible routes for returning back down the island. The most direct route cuts down the middle of the island passing close to St. Mary Lake. Access to the lakefront is extremely limited however belonging to private residences or countless lodges and B & Bs. Turn off onto North Beach Road instead for an oceanfront route that provides plenty of beach access.

Salty Springs Resort, at the roadside here, is the only place on the island where the public has access to the artesian wells for which the island was named. Guests at the resort can enjoy a mineral bath supplied by one of the springs. Altogether 14 minerals springs have been identified at the northern end of the island, all on private land. The largest feeds a 25 m pond ringed with salt crystals. Incidentally, though the earliest settlers soon dubbed the island “Salt Spring,” it was officially known as Chuan Island in 1854, being renamed Admiral Island after Admiral Baynes in 1859. The name-meisters in Ottawa finally got with the program in 1905, creating the compound “Saltspring” out of the original. Baynes may have lost his title but was able to retain the mid-island peak as his own.

The lagoon created by a protruberance called Walker Hook can be accessed at the bottom of Fort Street. A good spot for launching kayaks, Walker Hook is the last point of access before the road veers inland again, making a beeline back to Ganges. Those planning to take the direct ferry back to Tsawwassen should turn off at Long Harbour Road.

On The Road Again: This little poult marches to the sound of a different drumschtick, eschewing the flock to explore well beyond the barnyard at Ruckle Farm.

The Gulf Islands: Pender Islands <<->> The Gulf Islands: Saturna Island

Terrain: Moderate – Hilly

Traffic: Light

Season: Year Round

Distance: 43 km

Access: See Getting to The Gulf Islands

Two ferries a day service the Pender Islands from Tsawwaasen and while departure times vary day to day there is always a morning sailing and an evening sailing. More importantly, all morning sailings can be reached via bus from downtown Vancouver. For precise details see Getting to The Gulf Islands.

Those not too keen on dragging a bike load of the gear around the island are in for some good news as well. Otter Bay Marina, around the corner from the ferry landing has tent sites, pay showers, coin laundry and groceries. Those arriving without bikes can even be accommodated with a limited number of rentals. While tent sites are far from ideal, they are indeed handy.

Garden Variety Bike: The seeds of change, planted long ago, bear fruit, cyclically speaking.

The Penders, North and South, were once part of the same wasp-waisted land mass. Rather than row around either end of the island, locals were in the habit of portaging over the narrow isthmus separating Browning and Bedwell Harbours. An accommodating federal government dredged a canal between the waterways in 1903 when traffic out and about the islands was decidedly of the maritime variety. As the local population grew, seeking more reliable land-based modes of transport they demanded a bridge. The provincial government responded, rejoining the islands again in 1955. Now both modes of transportation are accommodated with masted ships as tall as 8.5 m able to scoot under the overpass at high water.

More than 2500 people call the Penders home. The north island is by far the most settled of the two as pioneers began preempting land hereabouts in the 1800s, largely ignoring the more rugged southern end. The communities of Port Washington and Hope Bay retain a funked-up 19th-century air that is oddly reminiscent of the nearby American San Juan Islands. Groceries, crafts, fine arts and photo ops galore will present themselves as you explore this historic end of the island.

Huff and puff up the hill from the ferry terminal and turn left at Otter Bay Road to reach Port Washington 2.5 km away. On the way, golfers may be tempted by nine holes on the right side of the road. With extra tee offs for each hole and a clubhouse the truly determined can squeeze in a full 19.

At the outskirts of sleepy Port Washington note Old Orchard Farm, a Victorian homestead named for the historic fruit trees which annually yield more than 50 varieties of pear, apple and plum. Some species, delicious but not transportable, have all but disappeared in the modern world of agribusiness. Down by the government wharf false-fronted Port Washington store looks like a set from a western movie. At the end of the road turn right onto Bridges Road and loop around to a small pocket beach just minutes away. Or skip the loop to climb to the summit of George Hill instead.

To reach Hope Bay, 3 km away, two alternatives exist. The main drag, Port Washington Road, slides past Southridge Farms County Store while Clam Bay Road winds towards the coast through forested back road. The beach at Bricky Bay, where a brick works once stood, can be accessed via Coast Shale Road. Broken bits of red brick still litter the beach.

Farm houses dating from the 1890s and Hope Bay Store built in 1912 dominate the community of Hope Bay. Look for hidden treasures in the motley collection of clapboard shops near the dock. Locally fashioned clothing, jewellery, pottery and glassware are all offered up for discriminating buyers.

From Hope Bay follow Bedwell Harbour Road for 3 km down island past the oldest church on the island, a homestead dating from 1895 and the pioneer cemetery where the makers of early local history preempted their last bit of turf.

Just before reaching the local airstrip the road drops down through a steep s-turn, ending on a long straightaway. As traffic tends to bottleneck here, slowdown to avoid mishap. Near the end of the straightaway further traffic congestion may be found in the vicinity of Driftwood Centre where residents do much of their shopping. A supermarket, bakery, liquor store and laundromat provide the essentials of island existence. Visitors can browse the gift shops or have their questions answered at the tourist information centre. Be sure to check the bulletin board for the lowdown on upcoming shindigs. Homegrown music, theatre and dance productions are regularly mounted by the more expressive hereabouts. Everything but homegrown will be on sale every Saturday morning when islanders show up to show off their green thumbs and creativity at the Farmers’ Market. Seasonal veggies, herbs and fruit fresh from the farm are offered for sale alongside textiles, hand-painted stationery, dried flowers, pottery and much more. The herb superb? Ask around.

Just across from Driftwood Centre, Hamilton Road leads down to a beach of the same name and Bedwell Harbour Island Resort next door. All three marinas on the two Penders have facilities directed at the tenting public including tent sites, pay showers and coin laundry machines. The latter may come in handy if exploring several islands over many days. Camping in the open, grassy field edging the beach here can be a noisy affair with more of a carnival, than wilderness air but the sun deck, suds and pub food come highly recommended.

The more solitude-inclined will want to push 2 km further on, climbing the hill beyond Driftwood Centre to Prior Centennial Provincial Park where campers can seek refuge in the cool forest darkness. Unless arriving with reservations you are likely to find the campground full during the height of summer as its popularity far outstrips the meagre 17 campsites which are available. Though ideally situated for exploring the island, services are rustic when compared to the marinas. Pit toilets and a hand pump for water are the extent of the plumbing provided here. Please help conserve water whenever visiting the Gulf Islands as the elixir of life can be scarce on these arid rocks. For a change of pace dismount and follow the Heart Trail from the campsite to a low prominence overlooking Browning Harbour. The trail eventually connects up with a Minotaur’s labyrinth of roads, crescents and cul-de-sacs known collectively, sometimes derisively, as Magic Lake Estates. The 1960s real estate development sparked a fierce debate that eventually led to the creation of a political body called the Islands Trust in 1974. Much like a mayor and city council, the Trust tempers unbridled development through the creation of zoning bylaws throughout the Gulf Islands.

Though the residential neighbourhood could easily be skipped several notable beaches lie beyond. Head to either Thieves Bay or Shingle Bay on Swanson Channel for a dip of the salty variety or detour to the estate’s namesake to dunk your toes in freshwater instead. While at Magic Lake be sure to take in the Golf Island Disk Park too. BYOF. There are no green fees at the 18-pole frisbee fairway. A couple of other secluded beaches will be found in the vicinity of Peter Cove 5 km away at the far eastern end of North Pender.

One of the best beaches in the Penders is nearby at the head of Bedwell Harbour. Little-known Medicine Beach was obviously home to a sizable native Indian settlement as evidenced by the millions of broken clam shells strewn along the foreshore. Such “kitchen middens” are commonplace on the coast of British Columbia, mute evidence of the breadth of pre-European civilization. The saltwater marsh behind the midden, habitat for rare plants and a wide variety of waterfowl, is uncommon in the Gulf Islands. To reach Medicine Beach and the neighbouring convenience store from Prior Centennial Provincial Park leave Canal Road where it abruptly zigs to the left, continuing straight on Aldridge Rd. for a short distance to the junction of Schooner Way and Wallace Rd. Medicine Beach is on the left while the grocery store is on the right.

Zigging down Canal Road and zagging past the school and health center are necessary to continue exploring southwards. Hosteling aficionados should keep an eye out for the turn off to Cooper’s Landing which provides budget accommodations under the aegis of Hosteling International. Kayaking, canoeing, whale watching and scuba diving can all be undertaken through the facility. The turn off to Cooper’s Landing is just before the Canal Bridge on the left. Prior to becoming a shortcut for early pioneers, for 5000 years in fact before the arrival of a few hearty Spanish and British explorers, the isthmus was a safe haven for an extended family tribe of original inhabitants who flourished on the resource-rich west coast. Though much evidence of their habitation was destroyed when the canal was dredged, the midden, known as the Helisen Archeological Site, was thoroughly excavated in the 1980s.

On the opposite side of the bridge an immediate right on Ainslie Point Road provides access to hiking trails to the summit of Mount Norman or along the foreshore to Beaumont Provincial Marine Park. From the 260 metre summit of the former a panorama of the Gulf and San Juan archipelago is revealed. The latter hike leads to a secluded arc of sand and gravel along the shores of Bedwell Harbour. Tenting is possible but access is either on foot or by boat only. As campsites abound on the Penders save this delight for some future paddle trip.

Much more accessible, Mortimer Spit will be found to the left of Canal Road just seconds beyond the bridge. The peaceful crescent of gravel and shell has seen tragic times as well. The conquest of native populations throughout the New World was an often bloody affair. And while the taming of coastal British Columbia cannot be compared to the massacres which occurred throughout Latin America and the American Southwest it was not without its frictions either. In 1863 two white settlers camping on Mortimer Spit were set upon by three native men and a woman while they slept. In the ensuing fracas one of the settlers was killed while the other was wounded. White justice of course carried the bigger stick and the male natives eventually swung from a rope. Continuing down island, the next eight kilometres pass through a sparsely populated rural landscape. Just 10 percent of Pender residents live on the south island. A side trip down Boundary Pass Drive leads to Little Bay another pocket beach favoured by those seeking seclusion. From here to Bedwell Harbour the main route follows Spalding Road through mature coniferous forest before culminating in a series of steep turns leading down to the five star Bedwell Harbour Island Resort. Tenting is possible here too but is clearly a sideline as the resort complex boasts an onshore hotel, restaurant, pub, grocery store and houses Canada Customs depot for mariners arriving from across the border.

The final 3.5 km dash down island follows Gowlland Point Road through more forest landscape, past a couple of side roads to the beach. Craddock Road too leads to the the foreshore near Tilly Point, a spot popular with scuba divers drawn to a network of underwater caves. A gravel beach at Drummond Bay can be accessed by turning off on Higgs Road.

Gowlland Point is a favourite spot for winter storm watching or at any time when the sun is shining. Poking around tide pools and wave-carved caves, exploring the grassy headland above the beach or simply lazing in the sun are all just rewards for the long, 20 click pedal down island. The U.S. border is just two kilometres offshore. Small wonder that Pender Island was once the staging area for smugglers running whiskey and rum into the parched, prohibition-era San Juan Islands visible in the distance.

The Gulf Islands: Mayne Island <<->> The Gulf Islands: Saltspring Island

The Gulf Islands: Mayne Island

Terrain: Rolling

Traffic: Light

Season: Year Round

Distance: 25 km

Access: See Getting to The Gulf Islands.

At 21 square kilometres Mayne Island is the smallest of the Gulf Islands. While summer homes abound just 900 people call Mayne Island home. By ferry from Tswwaasen you’ll island-hop first to Galiano Island then on to Village Bay at Mayne Island. As the ferry from Galiano Island rounds Helen Point look for bald eagles roosting in trees above both sides of the channel. At times a dozen or more white heads can be picked out against the dark backdrop of forest. The constricted waters of Active Pass concentrate the tidal flows into and out of Georgia Strait, concentrating too the salmon which coastal eagles thrive on.

Sunflowers: Gardening throughout the Gulf Islands is more than a hobby, it’s a way of life. As water supply is a constant concern on these arid rocks many capture rooftop rainwater, storing it in cisterns for summer use. Drip irrigation helps stretch limited water supplies to the max.

The first thing to strike one upon arrival at Mayne Island’s Village Bay is a sense of desolation. Apart from an old converted bus at the ferry terminal which sometimes dispenses hamburgers there is no commercial activity. Rows of houses ring the bay at a distance and a real estate office just beyond the ferry terminal is boarded up, mission accomplished perhaps. A tourism information display fades in the sun and the ferry traffic hustle and bustle soon fades too leaving visitors wondering. Wonder not! In spite of its small size Mayne Island has all of the charms of its bigger neighbors. Follow Village Bay Road to Miners Bay to find both hurly and burly in equal quantities.

Village Bay has no village, likewise no miners will be found in Miners Bay. The miners passed through long ago. Stricken with gold fever in the 1858 Fraser River gold rush thousands of frantic fortune seekers arrived from California and beyond via Victoria. Being halfway from Vancouver Island to the mouth of the Fraser River, Miners Bay became a marshalling area for the crossing of Georgia Strait.

Unlike the previous island, Mayne is small enough to tackle completely on foot. With two private campgrounds, three grocery stores, two with liquor counters, nearly as many B & B’s as there are houses and countless lodges, several pubs and restaurants and a bakery there are plenty of amenities on the island.

While it may cost a little more it is always a good idea to buy provisions locally thereby giving something back to the economy.

Both campgrounds are equidistant from MOM’s, the Mayne Open Market, and, once you settle in, it should take a mere 10 minutes by bike, 30 minutes on foot.

Mayne Island Eco Camping is the most conveniently situated campground. Located along the beach overlooking Active Pass, Mayne Island Eco Camping is just 10 minutes from the ferry by bike. More importantly, camping here puts your tent well within staggering distance of the pub at Miner’s Bay. In addition to seclusion, you’ll find hot showers, kayak rentals and even wi-fi internet access here as well.

Miner’s Bay is the hub of the community so finding suitable accommodation there is a logical step. The two bedroom cabins operated by the Springwater Lodge have awesome views of Active Pass but are incompetently operated and serviced. You can expect to find broken toilets, broken heaters, broken curtain rods, missing furniture and many other signs of neglect. Nonetheless the location and the view might make these distractions endurable at least to visitors on foot. Those equipped with bicycles will find little inconvenience no matter what corner of the island they choose to snuggle into for the night.

Regardless of where you park your bike the description of Mayne Island begins in Miners Bay. Springwater Lodge is noteworthy if not for the beer and burgers, then because it has been in operation continuously since it was first built in the 1890s. From the dock next door follow Georgina Point Road northwards. Within a kilometre you’ll pass quaint St. Mary Magdalene Anglican Church which was constructed in 1897 soon after the aforementioned pub opened its doors. Saturday night suds and Sunday morning solace. The churchyard ghosts can boast of one of the island’s best views.

Continue along the road for 2 km to reach the lighthouse at Georgina Point Heritage Park. The park keeps odd hours, open daily from 1 to 3 PM, but is a pleasant place to stop for lunch. Capt. George Vancouver must have thought so too as he and his crew, according to local legend, visited the point overlooking Active Pass and Georgia Strait. Some careless crew member left behind a coin dated 1794 and a knife which were excavated nearly a century later when the lighthouse was first erected in 1885. The present-day light station dates from 1940 while the tower was built in 1969.

There are a number of beach access points along the north shore of Mayne Island. Just outside the park gate a tiny beach on Maud Bay at the foot of Cherry Tree Bay Road is a great place to strip and dip on a hot summer day. Similarly, Bayview Drive leads to the rocky foreshore of Oyster Bay where swimming may be out of the question but sandstone formations eroded by wind and wave are sure to tantalize. Further along Waugh Road as the main drag is called, Porter then Petrus Road will take you to the boat launch on David Cove. When Waugh Road turns abruptly south, becoming Campbell Bay Road, look for a trail leading off to the left. A delightful beach at the head of Campbell Bay will be found at the end of this short trail.

From the beach huff and puff your way for 2 km up to Fernhill Road where choices await. A left turn leads to much of the rest of the island while a right along Fernhill will take you past the Plumper Pass Lockup back to Miners Bay. The jail, which now serves as a museum, was built in 1896. The museum is open every Friday, Saturday and Sunday from 11 AM to 3 PM throughout July and August. Call (250) 539-5286 to verify. Those with an interest in gardening may want to drop in to the island’s recycling center next door. The facility features a composting demonstration area as well as a deer and drought resistant demo garden. With a large, nearly domesticated deer population and just half the rainfall of Vancouver gardening can be a challenge to local residents. To contact the recycling depot call (250) 539-3380.

Follow Fernhill Road in the opposite direction to reach the island’s second central business district. Otherwise known as MOM’s, Mayne Open Market is less than a kilometre away from Campbell Bay Road. In addition to a market with fresh island produce and a liquor outlet, MOM’s features gourmet cooking and a lineup for ice cream that really is worth lining up for. A health clinic can also be found nearby.

MOM’s is at the crossroads of three separate routes. Continue along the left fork which starts out as Fernhill Road but soon becomes Bennett Bay Road to reach the waterfront 2 km away. The expansive, sandy beach at the head of Bennett Bay is popular for swimming and sun tanning while the rocky foreshore flanking it can provide hours of beachcombing at low tide. Before you drop from hunger and thirst drop in to the Mayne Inn overlooking Bennett Bay to quell the hunger pangs and sooth that parched throat. Return to MOM’s for another ice cream for dessert.

The road to Horton Bay passes through more than three kilometres of pastoral scenery. Many of the orchards date to the late 19th-century when the King apple was king. Mayne Island’s oldest homestead is found along Horton Bay Road. The farmhouse was built in 1871.

Tomatoes rather than apples became the crop of choice between the wars. Japanese immigrants settled in large numbers, capitalizing on the island’s rich soil and balmy climate, to develop a thriving greenhouse industry. With the outbreak of World War II more than 30 percent of Mayne Island’s residents were suddenly whisked off to work camps in BC’s interior, farms and livelihood confiscated.

At the end of Horton Bay Road itself there is a red and black government pier.

Gallagher Bay Road leads to the island’s other campground. Calling Journey’s End Farm a campground may be stretching the truth somewhat but it is possible to pitch a tent for $12. The facilities include a couple rickety tables, a toilet that is little more than a hole in the ground and a distant water supply that must be shared with the livestock. For that reason, however, you may find the campsite completely deserted. That privacy, coupled with the five star location atop rocky bluffs overlooking Navy Channel may be inducement enough to check it out. Follow Simpson Road to its end to pitch a tent. Continue along Gallagher Bay Road to explore the southern shore of Mayne Island. The road signage is confusing hereabouts but for the most part the main route is obvious. Abruptly Gallagher Bay Road ends becoming Marine Drive right and left. The right fork is the main road while the left fork leads to Piggot Bay, a pleasant, sandy crescent facing Saturna Island. Being exposed to driving northwesterlies, expect the beach to be choked with driftwood. Head to Piggot Bay for winter storm watching.

Marine Drive as main drag soon gives way to Mariners Way. Marine Drive as side road however leads to another sandy southside beach, this time at Conconi Reef Park near the eastern end of Navy Channel Road.

To reach Dinner Bay Park take East West Road from Mariners Way. While the beach is small the park includes a boat launch, picnic tables, public washrooms and a playground. Take Dinner Bay Road then Dalton Drive to return to the ferry terminal at Village Bay.

Mayne Island Hiking Trails

Mount Parke Park Hiking Trail

Those on foot can take a longish shortcut, returning to Village Bay from the opposite side of the island over the top of Mount Parke rather than by road around its shoulder. Mountain bikers should respect the landscape and stick to the roads. The trail to Mount Parke Park starts from the end of Montrose Road behind MOM’s. Outhouses provided by the regional district are located near the trailhead. The first section is decidedly up, cutting across private property initially then, after numerous switchbacks, reaching the ridgeline 45 minutes later. At the top of the ridge the trail branches both east and west with stunning views from the cliffside to the south overlooking Saturna Island and beyond to the San Juan Islands. Follow the west [right] branch for a further 20 minutes ever upwards towards the 271 m peak which, incidentally is off-limits, being the site of a federal maritime traffic radar installation. From the gate take the service road back downhill to where it continues losing elevation as Wood Dale Drive. Within half an hour you can expect to pass under a giant arch of logs at the intersection of Village Bay Road. Take a left to reach the ferry dock in a matter of minutes or take a right to reach the next trail.

Helen Point Hiking Trail

Nearly a kilometre and a half from the ferry, where power lines cross Village Bay Road, you’ll find the start of a nine kilometre hike along the foreshore bluffs of Active Pass. Since the route cuts through native Indian land it is necessary to obtain permission from the Tsartlip Band Office [(250) 652-3988] before setting out. Since access is allowed only through the good graces of the band council the tenants of no-trace hiking should be strictly adhered to. Failure to do so could result in a perpetual loss of access for the public at large.

[Note: Reader Stephen Akins wrote January 15, 2009 to share this insight: “FYI: I called the Tsartlip Band Office and they say they are no longer allowing people to hike Helen point.”]

The trail follows the powerline down towards Indian Bay before turning left to parallel the shoreline all the way to Helen Point. Hikers will pass through mature stands of mixed coniferous forest with arbutus clinging to the rocky shoreline bluffs. En route hikers may notice CMTs, cedar trees which bear the scars of fibre harvesting. These culturally modified trees are, of course, historic artifacts and must be treated as such. The removal or defacement of any artifact is prohibited by law. Forest gives way to open bluffs at Helen Point, adjacent to Active Pass’s narrowest section. Tides propelled by following winds can push currents to in excess of 15 km/h here.

The Gulf Islands: Galiano Island <<->> The Gulf Islands: Pender Islands

Terrain: Hilly

Traffic: Light

Season: Year Round

Distance:

Ferry dock to Montague Harbour: 10.5 km o/w

Montague Harbour to northern end: 27 km o/w

Access: See Getting to The Gulf Islands.

Galiano Island is the first stop on the inter-island ferry from Tsawwassen. There are two campgrounds on Galiano Island but only the one at Montague Harbour is accessible due to a right-of-way dispute. For the foreseeable future badly-needed Dionisio Point Provincial Marine Park will remain off-limits to land-based visitors. Lodges, cabins, B & Bs and resorts abound. Too numerous to include, contact the reservation hotlines listed below to discuss your needs. The route described below assumes you are planning to camp at Montague Harbour Provincial Marine Park. If you made alternative arrangements, vary the route according to your needs.

The ferry from Swartz Bay grinds its way towards Active Pass as seen from high atop Mount Galiano. Mayne and Saturna Islands dominate the background.

Named for the Spanish ship captain who explored the coast in 1792, Galiano Island is part of a long, undersea ridge comprised of Mayne and Saturna Islands to the south and Valdes, Gabriola, Protection and Newcastle Islands to the north. At 26 km long and just 2 km wide, Galiano is the second largest of the Gulf Islands.

In the vicinity of the ferry terminal expect to find numerous shops, a bakery, coffee shop, bookstore and bike rentals. Every Saturday from mid-May to early September there is an Artisans’ Market from 9:30 AM to 2:30 PM. Look for it behind Galiano Island Books at 76 Madrona Road.

From the dock climb Sturdies Bay Road for 5 km to the Hummingbird Pub. Just beyond this popular watering hole Porlier Pass Road veers off to the right. You want to continue on the left branch, now Georgeson Bay Road, for a couple mpments where you’ll find two general stores. The Corner Store, somewhat far from any corners, also serves as a liquor store and has a notice board where local secrets can be uncovered. The Daystar Market opposite specializes in locally grown organic produce. After stocking up on provisions you’ll want to continue for 1 km along Georgeson Bay Road until the main route winds right onto Montague Road. Immediately the road becomes steep, getting steeper by the second. On the way up just remember what goes up must come down. And indeed you will. The ride down the other side of the hill is a scream. Don’t overdo it however as manoeuvring down and around the numerous curves with a fully loaded bike could have dire consequences.

Three and a half kilometres on, near the bottom of the hill, Montague Park Road suddenly veers off to the right. Take it if you want to set up camp right away or go straight to Montague Harbour Marina where you can purchase limited grocery items, order a bite to eat or rent kayaks. <http://www.seakayak.ca/>Gulf Islands Kayaking was the first and most successful company to set up a paddling business on the island. In addition to their standard offerings, the Full Moon Paddle is a sheer delight.

Pedal Power: Expect to discover miles of smiles on each and every Gulf Island. Though the pace of life is decidedly slower helmets are required over here too, except when grinning for the camera.

The very best campsites have been set aside for the campground reservations system. A signboard at the entrance to the park indicates who gets what. Any sites which are not specifically earmarked are up for grabs. If you arrive without reservations make a note of those sites which are not taken so you may make an informed selection. The walk-in sites are far superior than those designed for people with vehicles. Though it is a good idea to make reservations well in advance during the summer there is always room for an extra tent in the group camping area.

Keep a close eye on your food at all times as the raccoons and crows in the park have made a profession out of pilfering whatever they can’t beg. Their cuteness wears a little thin when these bandits have gulped down the last of your tofu dogs. When that happens you are not completely stranded however.

The view from atop Mount Galiano

Though most shops close very early on the island, a bus will magically appear at the park gate at 6 PM and every hour thereafter until 11 PM. No doubt in cahoots with the raccoons, the bus will take you to and return you from the Hummingbird Pub for just two dollars. This service is available nightly from the end of May to the Labour Day long weekend. There are numerous other restaurants on the island but most are in the vicinity of the Sturdies Bay ferry landing. One notable exception is La Berengerie [(250) 539-5392] on Montague Road near Clanton Road. Reservations are required to sample this fusion of French and West Coast cuisine.

Clanton Road will also take you on an exploratory ride up island, rejoining Porlier Pass Road at the top of a 0.7 km grunt. 7.8 km further on, over undulating terrain, there is an ice cream cone with your name on it. The Blue Goose Country Kitchen at the corner of McClure Road and Porlier Pass Road serves designer coffee in addition to its renowned home-made ice cream.

You’ll easily burn off the extra calories by the time you reach Lovers’ Leap Viewpoint 7.3 km later. From cliff top you’ll be rewarded with views of Trincomali Channel, Wallace Island and Saltspring Island in the distance. Exploration of this area by kayak is detailed here. If your butt isn’t sore yet horseback riding opportunities exist at the Bodega Resort another 4 km down the road. The end of the road is a final four clicks away at Spanish Hill.

Chartering a boat on Galiano Island is as easy is picking up the phone. Check for options on the Galiano Island InfoCentre website. Fishing gear is usually included in the price. Active Pass is always popular though familiarity with currents and traffic patterns in the busy channel are recommended. Your skipper will most certainly have insight into local salmon habits.

For a change of pace set the two-wheeler aside and check out these Hiking Trails on Galiano Island:

Bodega Ridge

Bluffs Park

Mount Galiano

Salal <<->> The Gulf Islands: Mayne Island

With a permanent population of 4000, Gabriola Island is the third most populous island on the coast of British Columbia. And while Gabriola Island has been on the beaten track of intrepid Spanish explorers since the late-18th Century, it does not get as much tourist traffic as many of the other islands in Georgia Strait. Gabriola is no less fascinating and a quick burn around the island by bicycle can even be undertaken as a day trip from Vancouver. While Gabriola Island may be a bit large for some people, at 29 km, a circle tour of the island on foot is not out of the question over a long weekend.

The rocks at Gabriola’s United Church site come alive in the afternoon sun. Many of the petroglyphs are nearly invisible at other times of day. Step lightly and stay on the grass.

The less ambitious can tap into local knowledge through Gabriola Island Taxi [250-247-0049 Hours: 6am – 2am], getting a lift and the lowdown at the same time. This rural island is perfect cycling territory however, and as such, the description below has been optimized for cyclists.

From downtown Vancouver pedal west along Georgia Street, through Stanley Park, across the Lion’s Gate Bridge and follow the picturesque Lower Levels route along Marine Drive to Horseshoe Bay. [Non-peddlers should refer to Appendix: Getting to Horseshoe Bay.] Hop the ferry to Nanaimo and, after disembarking at Departure Bay, follow the noxious fumes out of the ferry terminal to Stewart Avenue. You should notice Sealand Public Market immediately on your left. From the foreshore here follow the seawall to the Gabriola Island ferry dock just beyond the Bastion, a historic Hudson’s Bay Company fort and prominent landmark in downtown Nanaimo. Foot passengers can follow the same pleasant urban walkway or grab a cab at the ferry terminal and cover the same distance in 10 to 15 minutes for $10 or so. The Nanaimo Seaporter is a shuttle service that connects Nanaimo’s four ferry terminals: Departure Bay, Newcastle Island, Gabriola Island and Duke Point. Though a good idea deserving our patronage, the service is a bit undependable at present.

Though the ferry schedule to Gabriola Island seems to change frequently, and some might say mysteriously, the service is generally good, running hourly from approximately 6 in the morning to 11 at night. For the most up-to-date schedule click: BC Ferries Nanaimo Harbour to Gabriola Island route. The ferry typically covers the 7 km crossing in 20 to 25 minutes. As with many of the smaller ferries on the west coast, the fare you pay includes the return voyage.

Island Time

Once on terra firma again climb the hill, taking the first left you come to. If planning to camp you’ll find waterfront tent sites less than a kilometre along Taylor Bay Road. Operated by Nanaimo and District Credit Union, Gabriola Island Camping is well-maintained and conveniently-located. The foreshore here alone can provide many hours of exploration at low tide. Photo enthusiasts especially will appreciate the endless opportunities provided by Gabriola’s unique sandstone formations.

Visitors can also pitch a tent at Page’s Resort Marina on the opposite end of the island. These latter campsites have been established for the benefit of mariners and are not so conveniently-situated for landlubbers.

Since you probably arrived at midday or later confine your explorations to the northern tip of the island on the first day. After losing your load at the campsite continue along Taylor Bay Road a further kilometre or so until you come to Malaspina Drive at the foot of which you’ll find the renowned Malaspina Galleries. These wind and wave-sculpted sandstone formations even caught the eye of Spanish explorers Galiano and Valdes in 1792. Commander Galiano’s sketch of these geological features was found in an old trunk in the Museum of Madrid 100 years after he drew it.

Mode of Expression

No need to decry the latter-day pictographs, graffiti that has been slopped all over these natural wonders. Instead consider it an inadvertent statement: nature’s best juxtaposed with humanity’s worst: yin & wanker; beauty & the Butthead; Bambi meets Godzilla perhaps. Since erosion is proceeding rapidly by geological standards, most of the paint has been sandblasted away leaving an embossed effect. The Galleries are a favourite hang out of local youths who while away the summer months baking in the reflected sunlight inside the Galleries and diving off the top into the deep waters below. Their carefree lifestyle should be the envy of every city slicker who visits the island.

From Malaspina Galleries the beach will take amblers on to Gabriola Sands Provincial Park during all but the highest tides while cyclists should stick with the road. A short distance past Malaspina Drive, Taylor Bay Road ends in a dirt track. The main road abruptly changes name and direction leading another half kilometre to a small shopping mall where the essentials, wine and cheese, can be obtained. In addition to grocery and liquor stores the Twin Beaches Shopping Centre is home to a deli, second hand store, hair salon and auto dealership.

Son of a Beach

Across the road you’ll find the entrance to Gabriola Sands Provincial Park. Locally known as Twin Beaches, this popular picnic area occupies a narrow spit with sandy beaches on either side. Leave bikes behind to explore the foreshore beyond the park where more of Gabriola’s famous sandstone formations will be found. By road follow DeCourcy Road to Tinson Point and look for dedicated beach access routes between the cottages.

From Twin Beaches Shopping Centre the main drag continues on to Berry Point over a road of the same name. The expansive beach at Orlebar Point, as Berry Point is officially gazetted, is the perfect place for picking, of all things, blackberries. Picnicking and exploring tidal pools are popular pursuits as well. Later in the day snuggle into a sandstone chair to catch the sunset. Wine and cheese, anyone?

Watering Holes

On the way back to your campsite you may be tempted to stop in at the nearby Surf Lodge pub. Closer to camp, burgers and brew can also be had at the White Hart Pub overlooking the ferry landing at Descano Bay. Those staying at Page’s Marine Resort will want to quench their thirst at the Bitter End Pub at Silva Bay Resort. Arrive early to get a patio seat. Those who have been camping on the island a bit too long will be edified to know that Silva Bay Resort has pay showers in addition to fine ale. Though Page’s and Silva Bay Resort are adjacent to each other as the crow flies getting there follows quite a roundabout route as the road goes.

Though many have been beguiled by the notion that “Gabriola” is derived from the Spanish gaviota for “seagull,” the actual etymology may be somewhat less fitting. According to Captain John T. Walbran, BC’s foremost authority on coastal place names, Gabriola is simply a corruption of a Spanish surname. In 1791 Jose Maria Narvaez labelled the eastern end of the island Punta de Gaviola or Gaviola Point. Through usage over the ensuing centuries the name came to include the whole island.

Rock Carvings

Gabriola is sometimes also called “Petroglyph Island” for the simple reason that it is one of just four important concentrations of petroglyphs in British Columbia. Quadra Island, Prince Rupert Harbour and a collection of sites on the mid-Fraser River share that distinction. To date nearly 80 petroglyphs have been uncovered on the island, many quite recently. As the island develops the past is steadily being uncovered. No doubt many more of these rock carvings lay hidden under a patina of moss.

While some of the petroglyphs may have been carved during post-European times, others are thought to date back some 2000 years or more. Though petroglyphs tend to depict a pantheon of mythical beings, a cross between the temporal and imaginative realms, little is known of their purpose, use and significance. While some have suggested that they are simply prehistoric graffiti most archaeologists agree this ancient art form expresses something far deeper than “Joe loves Sue,” or “Grad 99.”

To take in Gabriola’s petroglyphs stop first at the local museum. While there are no actual petroglyphs here there are plenty of reproductions which, unlike the real thing, can be explored in tactile fashion. To make a quick and easy wall-hanging place a square of artist’s canvas over the casting and rub it with conté, graphite or even chalk. When finished spray the rubbing with fixative and mount it on something stiff like plywood or particle-board.

Making T-Shirts

Though many of the petroglyphs are quite large some are the perfect size to fit on a T-shirt. Using a product like Pentel’s FabricFun™ Pastel Dye Sticks, available at art shops, first make a rubbing with the waxy crayons, pressing hard to push the dye deep into the fabric. The dye must be set with a hot iron before washing or wearing your creation.

To get to the museum follow South Road away from the ferry dock past the Agricultural Hall where, incidentally, a colourful Farmers’ Market is held every Saturday [10 AM to 2 PM] from May through September. The museum will be found just a few pedal pumps further on.

South Road continues eastward through a quiet forest landscape, passing a golf course before it begins descending a steep, 18% grade to sea level once again. Be sure to keep your speed under control on the downhill section as a sharp S-bend at the bottom could spell disaster for a runaway bike. As the road levels out you’ll find Brickyard Beach off to the right. Red brick fragments attest to the brick-making operation that thrived here from 1895 until the end of World War II. The flat lowlands provide access to a number of other beaches as well. At Stokes Road, cut past the Pioneer Cemetery to reach the tidal flats along False Narrows. Each spring seals, sea lions and eagles congregate here in the narrow passage between Gabriola Island and adjacent Mudge Island. A healthy population of resident great blue herons can usually be seen foraging at the waters edge year-round. The Community Hall just beyond Stokes Road is site of the salmon barbecue held every August.

A further 2 km down South Road behind the United Church at Price Road you’ll find a large collection of petroglyphs. The short trail to the site is well-marked though the ancient rock carvings themselves are not easily discernible. Avoid walking on any of the sandstone outcroppings here as nearly every surface has been incised with shamanistic doodles. Thus far 56 petroglyphs have been identified at the United Church site which was once likely an important religious place for a radically different denomination.

Probably other carvings lurk just below the thin covering of grass and moss but no doubt you will agree that they are best left as they are once you witness the tourists stomping across these sacred images. Or as an archeologist acquaintance once said perhaps they should all be covered with a layer of plastic and several tons of concrete until the human race can grow up enough to fully appreciate their significance. Like many other such sites in British Columbia you’ll even find fresh graffiti scratched into the rocks here. Is there a genetic impulse to be a dork? The best time to visit the United Church site is in the early evening when the tourists are busy chomping mushroom burgers and the sun is low. As the shadows lengthen the hitherto invisible carvings spring to life filling the forest with echoes of a distant time. Price Road itself leads to another secluded beach. From Price turn right onto Island View Drive then take a left on Grilse Road, veering right again when you reach Spring Beach Drive and continuing until you reach the beach parking area.

Yet another beach will be found less than a kilometre beyond the chapel. Turn right at Cooper Road and take an immediate left on Gray Road at the foot of which you’ll find a pleasant beach on the shores of Degnen Bay. This is one of the best spots to launch kayaks and small boats.

South Road begins to climb once again but the side excursions have not quite finished. Pause a moment as well to sample the blackberries that grow in abundance along both sides of the road. Look for baby lambs frolicking at Gray’s Farm in the spring. Degnen Bay Road leads to a government wharf and pay phone. The petroglyph of a dolphin-like creature carved into a sandstone shelf at the head of Degnen Bay is a must-see but is best accessed via Martin Road across from Gossip Corner. The skeletal representation encased by the creature’s outline is thought by some to signify death or passage beyond this world to another. The solitary image can only be viewed when the tide is very low. One of the early residents of Gabriola Island, Frank Degnen, reportedly deepened the outline in a misguided attempt to enhance the glyph.

Twenty hectare Drumbeg Provincial Park is also well worth a visit. Follow Coast Road then Stalker Road for nearly two kilometres before reaching Drumbeg Bay at the southeast corner of the island. The foreshore is comprised of a couple small gravel beaches dominated by low sandstone bluffs topped with garry oak. The park overlooks a sweeping bay studded with low rocks where sea lions sometimes congregate. As the extensive midden here suggests Drumbeg Bay was once an important seasonal encampment of the Coast Salish. On one occasion here we had the good fortune to witness close at hand a river otter grooming itself by rubbing face and body over a patch of freshly exposed seaweed.

At low tide it is possible to follow the beach as far north as the mouth of Silva Bay though cliffs prevent access to the marinas beyond. Once back on South Road, continue climbing past a pastoral sheep farm until you reach a quaint log church. Both Catholic and Anglican parishes have sought solace for the soul at the chapel since 1912. Across the road at Silva Bay Marina they are serving up sin in the form of frosty mugs of draft and better than average pub food. The truly devilish may want to bypass the holy Eucharist and head straight for the yam chips.

At Silva Bay the road switches gears with up becoming down. South Road becomes North Road, a generally straight route that leads down through “the tunnel,” lengthy sections of forest that arch over the road. Watch for deer along the road, particularly in the early morning or early evening or after a shower. Barrett Road is the turn off to 12 hectare Sandwell Provincial Park. The road drops steeply at an 18% grade through many twists and turns. Be prepared to make a left at Bluewater Road then an immediate left onto Bond Street at the bottom of which you’ll take another left onto The Strand which leads directly to the park itself.

From the parking lot a short, 650 metre forest footpath leads to the beach. Just before reaching the flat shoreline note the giant boulder garden. Evidence of an ancient midden left behind by the island’s original inhabitants can also be seen. Facilities are minimal at Sandwell Beach, just outhouses and a couple picnic tables. Birding enthusiasts may spot something of interest in the marsh just behind the beach. The beach itself is a delightful dark sand arc which is often deserted or nearly so. Sandwell Park, which was created in 1988, looks out across Lock Bay towards the Entrance Island Lighthouse and beyond to the mainland. The beach is home to three more petroglyphs. Two will be found above the high tide mark on a large boulder with a concave top. The carvings of simplistic faces may be obscured by driftwood logs piled up during winter storms. The third petroglyph will be found nearby and may have post-European origins. The excessive depth of the carvings suggests that a metal tool may have been used while the content, a hunter chasing down a deer, is unusual in coastal British Columbia suggesting an era of greater communication or even a European hand at work.

Backpacking <<->> Birding

Cycle Touring is the one activity that needs little advance preparation or training and can be done just about anywhere in the province where there are roads. If you can ride a bicycle you can hit the road. And while British Columbia is a mountainous province Vancouver Island and the Gulf Islands all offer excellent touring opportunities that are not too physically challenging.

Equipment

Given the popularity of mountain bikes in BC it’s hardly a wonder that most touring is done on these slow but sturdy, low-geared conveyances. The truth of the matter is, however, that the mountain bike is really the wrong equipment for road-based touring. A touring bike will get you farther faster and in more comfort.

If you decide to rent, keep in mind that rental shops almost exclusively stock mountain bikes. There are numerous rental shops on Denman Street between Robson and Georgia. Consider renting at your destination instead where possible and avoid some of the headaches of transporting the bike past barriers engineered primarily for cars. Rentals, where available, are detailed following the description of each outing.

Our Community Bikes is a unique organization which refurbishes used bikes and offers them for resale, rent or even giveaway if you qualify. Located at 3283 Main Street in Vancouver, Our Community Bikes also operates a fully-equipped repair shop for do-it-yourselfers.

Because of their tarnished image – once popular but supplanted but the far cooler-looking mountain bike – touring-style bikes can be picked up quite cheaply second hand. If you are planning to buy a used bike be sure to check out the used and consignment racks of many bike shops.

Helmets are mandatory for all cyclists in BC.

A bike rack and a set of good rear panniers is essential. Carrying your belongings in a pack on your back is not an option. Not only will your bike be top heavy and off balance, but back strain and heat exhaustion can result. Cycling, which involves the continuous movement of the body’s largest muscle groups, generates a lot of heat. Your exposed back acts like the radiator of a car, channelling heat away from the body. During hot summer weather interfering with this function could have disastrous results. A few shops rent panniers but most do not. Since a good set of panniers can be had for as little as $100 it’s best to make the purchase yourself. Check out the Mountain Equipment Co-op for the best prices in town.

Phat Seats

Don’t be beguiled by fat bike seats with lots of cushioning. These will only cause chaffing and a great deal of pain over the long haul. A slimline touring seat with very little padding will cause far fewer problems once your rear end has become acclimatized. Obviously, jumping on a new bike and heading off into the sunset is not a great way to break your butt in. Prior to attempting any multi-day excursions it is wise to spend some time day tripping around Vancouver and beyond to beef up the bottom as well as other muscles that will come in handy when slogging up hills with a fully loaded bike.

Those who plan to camp out will of course need the usual camping equipment: tent, sleeping bag, Ensolite pad, cooking utensils. Equipment weight is a much more important consideration with cycling than with backpacking. One way to sidestep this whole issue would be to plan on staying at inexpensive lodges, hostels and bed and breakfasts during your trip. It goes without saying that advance reservations are a must.

Appendix <<->> Backpacking