Level: Difficult

Distance: 51 km

Time: 5+ days

Elevation Change: 1870 m

Season: June to Sept

Map: 92 I/5 & 92 J/8

Access: From Vancouver take the bus to Pemberton [See Getting to Whistler.] and, as prearranged, meet the driver from Pemberton Taxi [604 894-1111] who will take you some 60 km further along the Duffy Lake Road to the Blowdown Pass area where this route begins. 3½ km beyond the Duffy Lake East Recreation Site the driver should turn right onto a disused logging road marked with a “No Through Road” sign. With luck the mainline will be passable for the next 9 km. If luck is not on your side and you find the road washed out you’ll have to hoof it uphill the rest of the way in. Stay on the mainline all the way until you reach a large flat parking area at about the 9 km mark. Take the first branch line to the left after this and continue for another 1½ km to the beginning of a private mining road. Contact the B.C. Forest Service in Lillooet to check road conditions ahead of time. Follow the mining road in towards Blowdown Pass.

Depending on how far you’ve already had to hike you may want to make pretty Blowdown Lake your destination for the first night on the trail. From the start of the Silver Queen Mine road the lake is just 3 km away while windy Blowdown Pass is a further kilometre. Many different routes emanate from the alpine pass. True fanatics may want to set up a base camp from which to explore the wide open alpine hereabouts before continuing on the Mini-Traverse proper. Gott Peak to the north and Gotcha Peak to the south are popular half day ascents, both requiring route-finding skills.

From Blowdown Pass at 2150 m our route continues east along the mine road for 8½ km, dropping gradually at first then more steeply before taking up a course parallel to the South Fork of Cottonwood Creek. Abruptly the road crosses a bridge over Cottonwood Creek, heading off in a southerly direction. Continue hiking east along the north side of the creek for 15 minutes or so. Where the road plunges down towards the creek bed you’ll find a well-defined trail to the east, continuing to parallel the creek. Follow this trail for 5 km down through the meadow, passing a disused trapper’s cabin just before the confluence of Cottonwood Creek’s north and south fork. The best camping in the area is on the opposite side of the waterway. From Blowdown Pass to Cottonwood Junction expect a descent of 1170 m over 13½ km.

The trail next drops steeply south into the Stein River Valley continuing to follow the course of Cottonwood Creek. The trail is well-defined with little underbrush but your progress may be impeded again by deadfalls. No longer a hindrance, fallen logs will get you across Cattle Valley Creek 4½ km further on. The campsite here is well-established but Cottonwood Creek camp is just 3½ km away at the bottom of the valley. To reach it you’ll have to negotiate a succession of switchbacks over loose talus, following rock cairns where the footpath is not obvious. Pause in your route finding from time to time to enjoy the view of the valley laid out below. From Cottonwood Junction to the banks of the Stein is 8½ km with an elevation loss of just 390 m but the going can be taxing at times particularly if the trail has not been recently cleared of deadfalls.

At the bottom you’ll find the campsite just beyond the Stein Valley Heritage Trail. Follow the previous hike description in reverse to reach the community of Lytton at the confluence of the Fraser and Thompson Rivers.

Stein River Valley - Stein Lower Canyon to Mid-Valley <<->> Nicomen Lake

Level: Challenging

Distance: 43 km

Time: 5 Days

Map: 92 E/8 & 92 E/10

Terrain: Undulating

Season: May – Sept

Comparisons between the Mid-Coast Trail and the West Coast Trail are inevitable. And while both largely follow the beach along the western fringes of Vancouver Island, the comparison stops there. The West Coast Trail has earned an international reputation over the years attracting as many as 9,359 hikers in a single season. Environmental degradation was inevitable. Litter and sewage and broad hiking avenues supplanted a once pristine wilderness. Foot traffic comparable to the Stanley Park Seawall forced indigenous wildlife away from the coast, forcing also Parks Canada to impose quotas for the first time in 1992.

The 43 km Mid-Coast Trail, by contrast, is a well-kept secret. Recently protected by the provincial government’s Clayoquot Land Use decision, the Mid-Coast Trail remains a true coastal wilderness attracting only a handful of savvy purists every year. For the time being its relative remoteness is its best protection.

The Vanishing Wilds: Hiking along the intertidal fringe of the Mid-Coast Trail reveals virgin wilderness like beautiful Barchester Beach. Bears and wolves live here and just a few of that ‘most dangerous game’ ever passes through. These ecotourists travelled all the way from the industrial wasteland of Japan just to experience what most local British Columbians take for granted.

Getting There is Half the Fun

Most hikers reach the trailhead from Tofino [See Getting to Tofino]. A few local bush pilots will land on Escalante beach. Though fast, this approach is not recommended for the faint of heart.

Alternately, hikers can contract the services of local guide and entrepreneur Peter Buckland who will arrange air or water transport from Tofino to his property at Boat Basin.

A third, more leisurely, route to the trailhead, relies on the expertise of local guide and fisherman Dave Ignace [see below]. The first leg of the adventure takes us over choppy waters to Hesquiat, site of a once thriving aboriginal village and Catholic mission. The name for the community is onomatopoeic, derived from the sound eel grass laden with herring roe makes as it slides through one’s teeth. As the name-meister Captain John Walbran put it:

“At Hesquiaht village a saltwater grass called ‘segmo’ drifts on shore in large quantities, especially at the time of the herring spawning, which the Natives are in the habit of tearing asunder with their teeth to disengage from the grass or wee the spawn, which is esteemed by them a great delicacy.”

A tsunami in 1964 and modern maladies like small pox and urbanization have reduced Hesquiat to just the Ignace family. This is the last outpost of hospitality on the central coast. Dave and his wife Diane have established a rustic camping area and, as an added bonus will host a lavish split-salmon and crab barbecue on the beach. Anticipation of the seafood, fresh garden salad, wild blackberry flan and bonfire potatoes will fortify hikers through days of backpackers’ rations.

From Hesquiat, Dave’s boat handling skills will be required to ferry hikers past the breakers of Estavan Point, over the rollers of the open Pacific, through myriad kelp beds, reefs and other hidden hazards. At Escalante Point near the mouth of Nootka Sound it’s time to bid your worthy seaman farewell, wade ashore and set up a base camp before setting out to explore the beaches to the north.

Nature Mirrors Art

From Escalante set an easy pace following the coastline southwards. Sand soon gives way to a field of gigantic, voluptuous sandstone and conglomerate formations reminiscent of Henry Moore’s wildest abstract imaginings. And if Moore sensuality is not your thing you’ll find a hint of Salvadore Dali’s jagged dreamscapes in the massive tectonic uplifts that follow.

Crusty Uplift: Hiking the Mid-Coast Trail is frequently called an uplifting experience: about every 200 million years.

At Split Cape you’ll encounter the only real impediment to navigation though the surge channel here is easily overcome with a quick scramble through the bushes at all but the highest of tides.

That Old Sinking Feeling

Barchester Bay affords exquisite beach camping but step quickly when fording the river here as patches of quicksand are sure to surprise. This is not the Tarzan movie variety of quicksand, however, so mucky boots are the worst you’ll endure.

Since the river at Barchester is brackish, wading upstream will be necessary to ensure fresh supplies. In fact, finding fresh water all along the Mid-Coast Trail can be a problem in the summer months with many creeks either dry or reduced to a trickle. Keep a sharp eye open for any wet spots at the forest edge. Usable sources will often disappear under the sand upon reaching the beach. Remember to top up whenever possible, tasting first for salt contamination.

Expect to encounter black bears scavenging on the beach. On one occasion we were able to watch and photograph, from a safe distance, a sow with two cubs for about ten minutes before being discovered. Wolves too are in abundance on this part of the coast though spotting these shy animals is no easy task. Imagine though, crawling out of your tent in the morning to discover fresh wolf tracks on top of your own!

Shelter Skelter: Peter Buckland’s homey cabin at Homais Cove was originally built to accommodate hikers who passed through his property at Boat Basin following the Escalante River down to the beach. It looks like they had a whale of a rib feast. Bronto burger anyone?

In 1774 the Spanish made contact with the original inhabitants of Hesquit at Estavan Point. Now you’ll find the tallest lighthouse, 39 m, on Vancouver Island. Built in 1907, Estavan Point Light Station is one of the few remaining manned lighthouses on the west coast. This will be your closest link to the outside world. Estavan Point lighthouse was the only place in Canada to see action during WW II. A marauding Japanese submarine crew fired more than 25 shells at the beacon but missed every time. Maybe it is true, as the Japanese say “Tôdai moto kurashi – It’s darkest at the foot of the lighthouse.” Following the assault, lighthouses up and down the coast were very dark indeed: blacked out in fact, until the end of the war. For its part, the submarine was sunk a few months later off the coast of New Zealand. The beach prior to Estavan Point or the tiny one at Smokehouse Bay are perhaps the best spots for camping on the third night. If actually planning to sleep, the further from the Estavan Point fog horn the better.

Rock Carving

A petroglyph can be found on one of the beach boulders just prior to Matlahaw Point. For those who intend to continue past Hesquiat to Boat Basin, you’ll find ideal camping in the vicinity of Teahmit Indian Reserve. Perhaps it goes without saying but respect for the land should be paramount at all times. Hikers should be especially observant when crossing native lands.

At Hesquiat you will be greeted by Dave Ignace and family once again. From here he will ferry you on to Hot Springs Cove for a well-earned soak in the finest natural hot spring on the west coast.

For transportation to and from the trailhead contact Dave & Diane Ignace in Hesquiat:

Dave & Diane Ignace

250-670-1164

PO Box 418
Tofino, B.C. V0R 2Z0

The West Coast Trail <<->> The Powell Forest Canoe Route

Day One Pachena Bay to Michigan Creek 12 kilometres.

After signing in at Pachena Bay at the northern end near the community of Bamfield you’ll find the going very easy at first. A number of impassible headlands make beach walking out of the question until Michigan Creek. The first 10 km of the trail follow what was once a supply road for the Pachena Point Lighthouse. As a consequence the trail is generally flat and so wide that walking two abreast is possible. Just a kilometre before the lighthouse on this pretty but otherwise uneventful section of trail a viewpoint affords a view of Flat Rocks where sea lions often enjoy basking in the sun on a warm spring or autumn day.

At the lighthouse you’ll be greeted in your native language no matter where in the world you come from. Hikers are welcome to look around the Lighthouse grounds during posted visiting hours but keep in mind that this is home to the lighthouse keepers. Disturb nothing including the keepers as they go about their daily chores. Only recently the original tower was decommissioned, replaced with an automated light-on-a-stick. The original beacon at Pachena Point, now a Recognized Heritage Building, is the last remaining wooden lighthouse in British Columbia. The massive Fresnel lens and oil wick lamp have operated faultlessly since 1907.

Two kilometres on consider calling it a day at the popular Michigan Creek campsite[km 12.] After setting up camp check out the boiler and other rusty bits of iron from the steamship Michigan that ran aground here in January 1893 costing a number of lives.

Much of the next day will be spent hiking along the beach. Loose rocks, slippery seaweed-covered surfaces, soft sinking sand and surge channels all require special attention especially when encumbered with a heavy backpack. The majority of ankle, wrist and arm injuries occur on the intertidal shelf. A sturdy driftwood walking stick or ski pole can go a long way towards providing the additional stability needed along the shore route. Once you reach the ladders at the bottom end of the trail you’ll doubtless agree that a collapsible walking stick is well worth the investment.

The West Coast Trail-Day Two Michigan Creek to Tsusiat 12½ km

From Michigan Creek the first two kilometres to Darling River are beach accessible during all but the highest tides [below 3.7 metres.] The cable car across the Darling River [km 14] is the first of many you will encounter on the West Coast Trail. They are fun to ride on and will keep your feet dry but often the cable cars are out of order. When creeks are running low marching across them instead will save considerable time and energy. Whenever fording streams undo your waist belt and loosen your pack straps in the event that you stumble and have to quickly jettison your pack.

If the tides are in your favour, continue along the beach for a further 3 km until Tsocowis Creek. Though a forest route is available, most prefer the open coastal scenery and the ease of walking the beach route affords. Keep an eye seaward as the foreshore is popular with foraging Gray whales.

The next three kilometres to Trestle Creek follow a relatively easy forest footpath packed with historical relics. To find the trail from the beach, look for fishing floats hanging in the trees. Access points are marked this way all along the West Coast Trail. Be sure to top up your water at Billy Goat Creek as the elixir of life can be hard to find the rest of the way to the Klanawa River. About a kilometre beyond Billy Goat Creek pause for a moment at the Valencia viewpoint to consider the victims of the shipwreck in January 1906 which ultimately led to the construction of the Pachena Point Light Station and the West Coast Lifesaving Trail. In time the sea has claimed every last remnant of wreckage leaving only the dimmest memory of the 126 people who died on the rocks off distant Shelter Bight. Those not mercifully claimed by drowning were trapped with cliffs at their backs and impassible headlands on either side. Many faced the raging sea bravely only to be exhausted and broken by hypothermia. Amazingly, 38 survivors managed to scramble to safety.

Just beyond the viewpoint you’ll come across first a grader then a steam “donkey” [km 19] left behind after completion of the Lifesaving trail in 1909. The road-wide portion of the trail extended from Bamfield to the site of the Valencia wreck at Shelter Bight, continuing on to Carmanah Point as a well-defined trail. Beyond Carmanah the Lifesaving trail was a rough footpath hacked through the forest to Port Renfrew. Though all sections have been vastly improved, today this relativity persists.

The winch on the rocks at Shelter Bight and the anchor at Trestle Creek are thought to come from the 1923 wreck of the steamer Robert E. Lewers. At low tide wreckage from the Janet Cowan which sank in 1895 can also be seen at Shelter Bight [km 20.]

Either trail or beach will take you the 2½ km from Trestle Creek to the cable car crossing at Klanawa River. Since you will have already covered 11 km since Michigan Creek some will want to stop here for the night and Klanawa River [km 23] is certainly a suitable spot to pitch a tent. Many, however, will want to push on for another 1½ km through the forest to the most popular place on the West Coast Trail, Tsusiat Falls. The sandy beach, picturesque waterfall, dipping pool and sea caves are attractive enough for some hikers to camp over for several days at a time. The crowds can be insufferable however so many others would rather opt for a more wilderness setting to set up camp. The choice is yours. Assuming you fall into the latter category and decide to stop for the night at Klanawa keep in mind that the river is tidal so you may have to go upstream some distance in order to get untainted water when the tide is in. Always taste the water first before filling up to avoid contaminating your container.

The West Coast Trail-Day Three Tsusiat Falls to Dare Point 13½ km

Even if you didn’t camp at Tsusiat Falls [km 25.5] you will want to stop to enjoy the scenery and snap a few pictures. From the falls the beach again affords the best hiking. Tsusiat Point a kilometre away is impassible at tides above 2.7 metres. The Hole-in-the-Wall at the point is another popular photo op. Another kilometre reveals an anchor mired in the beach near a forest access trail. The beach route continues another kilometre before Tsuquadra Point [km 29] forces hikers back into the forest for the last three kilometres before Nitinat Narrows.

Tsuquadra Indian Reserve is now out of bounds since hikers in the past have desecrated important cultural sites hereabouts. The beaches along this section of trail however are very attractive with numerous sea caves revealed at low tide. Trails just before and after the reserve provide access to public portions of the beach. Ring the dinner bell, a giant iron triangle, when you reach Nitinat Narrows [km 32] to call for the ferry across this treacherous waterway. The ferry, operated by members of the Ditidaht Indian Band from early May to early October, costs $12.50 and is the only way to cross this deep tidal river. Keep your Trail Use Permit handy to show the operator when you board. Both ferries along the West Coast Trail must be paid for in advance upon registration. On a hot day it may be possible to purchase an ice cold brew or two from the skipper. Remember, however, if you intend to enjoy your beer at the next campsite you are expected to carry your empties, as with all your garbage, to be properly disposed of at the end of the trail. Water is going to be a problem for the next 10 km so be sure to top up with water once you reach the opposite shore. There is excellent water to the left of the main trail just a few steps from the dock. Due to the ignorance and immaturity of hikers in the past, the Indian villages of Whyac and Clo-oose [km 35] are now off limits. Hikers must remain on the forest the trail for the next 4 km until reaching the Cheewhat River. A number of unique petroglyphs in the vicinity of Clo-oose record the passage of the paddlewheel steamer Beaver and other sailing ships in 1836. These treasures too are now off-limits to hikers. From one of the cliff-top viewpoints between the two villages note the anchor below, all that remains of the Skagit which was shipwrecked in 1906.

Meaning “river of urine,” water from the Cheewhat is undrinkable. A small spring to the left of the trail just before the Cheewhat River Bridge is, in spite of the sulphuric tinge, the best water in the area. What may be caustic to humans seems oddly attractive to crabs, however. Sizable dungeness crabs often litter the bottom of the shallow Cheewhat River as it meanders out to sea below the bridge. If equipped with a fishing license you may discover the real reason for carrying that hiking stick day after day. Using the oldest trick in the book, scare the crabs with the stick towards a companion waiting in the shallows. Always grip the crabs from behind, grasping the main shell firmly between thumb and forefingers. Use any other technique and you will no doubt find out how eager indeed the crabs are to end up in a pot of boiling water.

The point of land overlooking the mouth of the Cheewhat River is also Indian Reserve and therefore out of bounds but the sandy beach beyond that and extending for nearly 1½ km to Dare Point would be ideal for camping except for the lack of water. Only one site about 1 km away has an adequate supply. Since you will have already covered 13½ km since Klanawa River setting up camp here might be well-advised.

The West Coast Trail-Day Four Dare Pt to Walbran Cr 16 km

You’ll start the day on the forest footpath again but only for a kilometre or so. Once past Dare Point [km 37] the beach is again accessible except when tides are running below 2.1 metres. Wreckage including the anchor from the steamer Santa Rita which ran aground in 1923 can be found in a surge channel about halfway between Dare Point and Dare Beach. The headland before Dare Beach is passable at low tide but the forest route, being both faster and safer, is recommended. From Dare Beach the trail moves inland and includes some sections of boardwalk leading to Carmanah Point Lighthouse. Before leaving the beach note the unique natural breakwater off shore called the Cribs [km 40.]

The Carmanah Point Light Station [km 44] was first manned in 1891 as a complement to the Cape Beale Light Station which was established in 1874 as a reference point to assist mariners searching for the entrance to Juan de Fuca Strait.

Beyond the lighthouse you’ll regain the beach once again. The trail follows a beach-only route for the next 7 km to Vancouver Point. If time is on your side, take a break at Carmanah Creek [km 46] and wade upstream 1.3 km unencumbered with packs for a look at the Carmanah Giant, the world’s largest sitka spruce tree. The Carmanah Giant is 95 metres tall and 3 metres thick at the base. Carmanah Creek is also an excellent place to camp though I have seen the river and the beaches in the vicinity absolutely polluted from tens of thousands of krill-feasting herring gulls. The overwhelming stench made camping impossible.

Continuing on from Carmanah Creek looks easy. Do not be misled. The powdery sand places unique demands on your calf muscles, knees and lower back. While you will move forward at a rapid pace you’ll find it exhausting work. Even at the water’s edge, where the wet, packed sand is firmer, walking is never easy. Mercifully, the rocky sandstone shelves provide some relief when the tide is low. If the tide is below 3.7 metres it is possible to walk around Vancouver Point [km 51] and on to the mouth of the Walbran River [km 53.] Wading the river will be necessary, however, so this route is not recommended during spring runoff or following heavy rains. After 16 km of steady trudging you’ll be more than eager to pitch the tent at this picturesque site.

The West Coast Trail-Day Five Walbran Cr to Camper Cr 9 km

Awaken well-rested after the long haul on the previous day to realize you have to undertake a mere 9 km amble today. Look a little closer at your map and notice that the terrain, relatively flat thus far, is about to undergo a dramatic transformation. The beach has suddenly become problematic forcing hikers away from the coast and into the forest. A succession of creeks big and small has cut deep ravines across your route. As you will soon discover, this day will stand out as a seemingly endless sequence of ladders, some of them broken, all of them slippery. From this day forward, when you think of the phrase “temperate rain forest” you will recall the magnificent gloom you are about to enter. Depending on the weather, you may also think of mud.

The 3 km from Walbran Creek to Logan Creek could be accomplished on the beach, at least when tides are below 2.1 metres, were it not for the dangerous surge channel at Adrenaline Creek [km 55.] Adrenaline Surge is a wide fissure that cuts through the intertidal shelf to the cliff face where a waterfall tumbles into the channel. During periods of low precipitation, and when tides are below 1.7 metres, an exposed rock in the middle of the surge channel provides a perilous stepping stone to the other side. Be forewarned: hikers have died here.

By comparison, the forest route is largely uneventful. From Walbran Creek you’ll climb 150 metres or so to a boggy area, excellent mosquito habitat early in the season, before climbing ladders down into the ravine carved by Adrenaline Creek. After climbing out the other side, it will be another kilometre before you begin descending into Logan Creek canyon [km 56.] Ladders will drop you on to a suspension bridge which should not be crossed by more than six people at once. If you wish to access the beach and camping area follow the trail to the right once you have reached the opposite side of the span. Otherwise mount the ladders again to climb out of the ravine. There is no beach route between Logan Creek and Cullite Creek [km 58.]

The high ground is marshy once again but thankfully the trail is topped with a cedar boardwalk. Pay close attention to your footing as some boards may be cracked or broken. Always try to step across two boards at once in case one happens to give way. Repeat the up-down performance at Cullite Creek, crossing the river via cable car. Even if not camping at Cullite Cove this exquisite site is certainly worth a side trip. From the beach here I have seen a pod of killer whales swim by and on a different occasion, enjoyed watching a family of otters beachcombing in the early morning.

Just ½ km further on you’ll encounter the bridge across Sandstone Creek. Descend the ladders to the beach to find another exceedingly attractive campsite complete with tumbling waterfall. Those who have had enough of yo-yo hiking will be pleased to know that the beach now becomes a viable alternative again. The catch is that getting onto the intertidal shelf at Sandstone Creek may require a bit of wading and is not accessible at all when the tide is above 1.2 metres. Having gained the shelf, the beach is passable to Camper Creek when tides are below 1.7 metres. When unsure, err on the side of caution and stay with the boggy forest route. The 3½ km to Camper Creek require no tricky manoeuvring, just steady plodding. As the best, last campsite before the end of the trail, Camper Creek [km 62] can get crowded. The

West Coast Trail- Day Six Camper Cr to Gordon R 13 km

After crossing the creek on the cable car and climbing out of the ravine, the end of the trail is a steady slog through the forest mud. Alternatives that involve the beach add welcomed variation as well as significant distance to your day. At two and three kilometres from Camper Creek the beach becomes accessible once again. Take the second access route to avoid a difficult surge channel. The rocky shelf here is passable when tides are below 2.4 metres for 1 km. Most hikers then return to the forest for the duration of the trip.

The geology along the next two kilometres of shelf to Owen Point, however, should not be missed. Known locally as Moonscape, the sandstone surfaces along the way have been uniquely sculpted by aeons of weather and water.

Owen Point itself is passable when the tide is below 1.8 metres. The beach route beyond that to Thrasher Cove is narrow with many loose rocks and can be clogged with driftwood making this an often demanding route. Cleft Falls and a series of delightful sea caves might just make following this route worthwhile however. As the going will be slow be sure to allow enough time to cover the 2½ km from the point to Thrasher Cove while the tide is out. Thrasher Cove is an attractive place to camp but those determined to reach the end of the trail before nightfall will have to climb 1 km steeply up to the main trail [km 70.] On the final 5 km leg of the journey you’ll reach the highest point on the West Coast Trail, a viewpoint overlooking Port San Juan.

Shortly thereafter [km 72] you’ll encounter another abandoned steam “donkey.” This one was used to log the area in days gone by. This is the only section of the West Coast Trail which suffered the bite of the cross cut saw. Compare the thick understory vegetation that has resulted with the relatively open spaces beneath the canopy of virgin forest you passed through the day before. When you finally reach the trailhead at Gordon River [km 75] wait for the herring skiff that will ferry you across to the other side. Like the ferry that took you across Nitinat Narrows, boat transportation here costs $12.50 and should have been paid when you registered. The ferry operates just four times daily at 9:15 and 11:15 every morning and at 3:15 and 6:15 in the afternoon. Your Trail Use Permit is your ticket to ride. Return your permit to the Parks Canada office at the mouth of Gordon River. For those who have to weather one more night in the area while waiting for transportation there is commercial camping nearby at the Pacheenaht Indian reserve for $8 per tent per night.

The West Coast Trail - Introduction <<->> The Mid-Coast Trail

Level: Difficult

Distance: 75 km

Time: 4 – 7 Days

Map: Provided to registrants

Terrain: Undulating

Season: May – Sept

Extending 75 km along the southwestern shore of Vancouver Island, the West Coast Trail attracts 8,600 hikers each year. Visitors, encumbered with heavy backpacks, are challenged by deep ravines with seemingly endless ladders, slippery beach trails, taxing river fords, drenching rains and, at times, knee-deep mud. Sound horrible? The rewards are less easy to enumerate but include some of the finest scenery in the world, magnificent wildlife including bears and cougars, Gray whales and orcas. For better or worse, hiking the West Coast Trail is an experience never to be forgotten. For many it may be an endurance test, but compared with the perils of a bygone era, undertaking the West Coast Trail today is, if you’ll excuse the pun, a walk in the park.

Currents of Doom

Prevailing currents that sweep northward along the California, Oregon and Washington coasts run headlong into the flank of Vancouver Island as it juts out into the Pacific. Running at speeds of as much as 5 km/h, The California Current intercepts the warmer Japanese Current just offshore, creating thick banks of fog while at the same time pinning all manner of flotsam and jetsam against the rugged coastline.

Flotsam and Jetsam

Above these colliding currents, offshore winds – often raging typhoons – tend to slam everything in towards the shoreline.

Dead Reckoning

Before the advent of steam, sailing ships needed plenty of room to manoeuvre under even the best of conditions. Unfortunately for many a doomed sailor the myriad rocks, islets, reefs and shoals left little room for anything once an error had been committed.

In the early days of B.C. shipping, finding the entrance to Juan de Fuca Strait on a fine, clear day could prove demanding. Locating the strait on a dark and stormy night was a daunting, often deadly task. Inaccurate navigational charts, a lack of navigational aids such as lighthouses, foghorns and beacons meant often near blind groping for the entrance at night in the worst possible weather. Little wonder that so many captains overshot Juan de Fuca Strait only to have their ships ravaged by the savage Graveyard of the Pacific.

Since 1854 some 70 or more ships big and small have been dashed to bits on the gnarly southwest coast of Vancouver Island. Over the decades hundreds have been killed. Some have been lucky, meeting death quickly and mercifully in the pounding, grinding surf. Those less fortunate met death slowly and excruciatingly. Spared a watery grave they huddled on wild beaches wet and cold, continually lashed by the elements, unable to kindle fire, too weak to find food until life slipped away with a shiver.

Countless others have been saved by the largely unacknowledged heroism of local natives. Time and time again the original inhabitants pulled survivors from the mayhem, provided shelter and food in the wilderness or ferried them as far away as Sooke and Victoria, at considerable personal risk, in their seaworthy dugout canoes. In 1906, following the loss of 126 lives from the steamer Valencia, Pachena Point Lighthouse and the West Coast Life-saving Trail were built. In addition to the rough-hewn trail, a network of rustic cabins and a telegraph line were constructed to support future shipwrecked survivors.

Lighthouse keepers and their ever-vigilant families played an increasingly important role as navigational aids were installed along the coast. Often running or rowing through many kilometres of darkness and storm, they were able to bring help to foundering vessels whenever the primitive telegraph lines failed.

Present day hikers on the West Coast Trail can scarcely conceive of the perils shipwrecked mariners faced. Often marooned in the harshest winter months, survivors had no broad avenues to follow, no suspension bridges, ferries or cable cars on which to cross rivers. There were no ladders up the sides of steep, greasy-slick ravines. Often survivors had no food, little clothing and even less hope. Yet against the odds many survived.

The Litter of History

Hikers today will encounter the old telegraph wire still hanging in trees. Rescue huts decay in the forests as boilers and anchors and broken chunks of iron and steel rust on the beaches. And in the sun, in the summer, it’s hard to image the hell that was the Graveyard of the Pacific.

Access

There are two ways of undertaking the West Coast Trail. From the south, starting at Port Renfrew, you can expect to get the worst over first, with your hike getting progressively easier as the days wear on. This northward route culminates in a pleasant, well-earned cruise along the Alberni Inlet from Bamfield to Port Alberni. The other possibility is start hiking from Bamfield (pop 400) undertaking the easiest sections while your backpack is heaviest. The theory is, your physical conditioning will gradually improve to meet the demands of an increasingly difficult route. The reality for those who try to undertake the West Coast Trail too quickly, however, is they may reach the difficult bottom end fatigued and stiff, heightening the potential for injury. The key, of course, is to allow plenty of time to drink in the sights and sounds. Backpacking should never seem to be a forced march. I have met those who try to undertake the trail as an overnighter, presumably just for the bragging rights. By any definition, doing so is sheer folly.

This book will detail access and egress to both trailheads north and south but will focus on a southward route description aimed at less experienced hikers.

Getting There

The West Coast Trail Express offers one-stop shopping for transportation to either end of the trail. A fleet of maxed-out minibuses delivers hikers daily from Victoria while those originating in Vancouver can intercept a Bamfield-bound bus in Nanaimo.

Northward Ho!

If you decide to follow the trail from Port Renfrew northwards to Bamfield the West Coast Trail Express costs $30 and leaves from in front of the Island Coach Lines bus terminal in Victoria at 700 Douglas Street arriving in Port Renfrew 2½ hours later. When you finish your hike the same transportation company will pick you up at Pachena Bay near Bamfield and return you to Victoria or Nanaimo for $50. If you would prefer to avoid the dusty logging roads on the return, Alberni Marine Transportation operates a ferry service between Bamfield and Port Alberni every day in the summer except Monday and Wednesday. The ferries MV Lady Rose or MV Frances Barkley make any number of whistle-stops at cabins and fish farms along the Alberni Inlet arriving invariably behind schedule. Fortunately, bus service from Port Alberni is frequent enough to be relied upon no matter how late the ferry returns. From the Public Quay where you will get your land legs back again, the bus terminal is a mere 10 minute walk. If you’ve had your fill of walking, grab a cab instead. From Port Alberni, Vancouver Island Coach Lines will deliver you to the connecting Maverick Coach Lines bus in Nanaimo for the final leg of the journey back to Vancouver.

Southward Ho!

If undertaking the trail in the recommended north-south direction, arriving in Bamfield by boat is logistically difficult though not impossible. The ferries leave Port Alberni at 8 am every Tuesday, Thursday, Friday, Saturday and Sunday, too early to be accessed directly by public transportation from Vancouver which arrives at 10 AM at the earliest. The only alternative would be to arrive in Port Alberni the day before then board the ferry at the Public Quay after a good night’s sleep at a nearby motel. Needless to say the logistics and cost of bus, accommodation and boat make this alternative hard to justify.

The West Coast Trail Express is both faster and cheaper, bumping and grinding its way over dirt roads from either Victoria or Nanaimo on a daily basis. Pick up in Nanaimo is at the Departure Bay Ferry Terminal at 8:45 every morning and costs $50. You’ll have to be on the first ferry [6:30 AM] from Horseshoe Bay in order to connect. [Click for details on getting to Horseshoe Bay .]

Reservation System

The recreation potential of the West Coast Trail area was recognized as long ago as 1926 when it was formally set aside as a park reserve by the provincial government. Ulterior designs on the land and its forests by the logging lobby were enough to convince the government to rescind the reserve designation in 1947. The West Coast Lifesaving Trail was simply too remote for recreational use they argued. In spite of the poor condition of the trail word gradually spread of this natural wonder until, in the 1960s, the federal government persuaded its provincial counterpart to set the land aside for broader usage. Pacific Rim National Park was born in 1970 and from that point forward recreational use exploded. By the 1990s recreational overuse, not the logging interests, was threatening the very wilderness values along the West Coast Trail so revered by users. In 1992, for the first time, a quota was imposed limiting the number of hikers that could enjoy the trail. Though trail beds, bridges and camping facilities including outhouses have steadily improved, hiker impact on the ecosystem has continued to grow causing regular reductions in the annual quota. At present only 26 users may access the trail daily from each trailhead. Twenty of those must have reservations while just six hikers are allowed on the trail from the often extensive waiting lists at Gordon River near Port Renfrew or Pachena Bay near Bamfield. Permits are issued to those on the waiting lists daily at 1 PM. Reservations can be made up to 90 days in advance but because of the demand reservations are usually gobbled up within minutes of becoming available. Those who show up at the trailhead can expect to wait for several days before getting on the trail. Those with reservations must pay a $25 reservation fee while all users must pay a $70 user fee at the trailhead and must carry a park use permit at all times while on the trail. The permit must be returned when leaving the trail. In addition to trail upkeep, the user fee pays for regular rescue patrols, pre-trail orientation, and each user receives a waterproof map and tide chart.

Parks Canada does not allow camping in the vicinity of either trailhead. Those on the waiting list can find commercial camping on adjacent Indian land. The Huu-Ay-Aht Band at Pachena Bay charges $18 per night for a campsite while the Pacheenaht Band at Gordon River levies a fee of $3 per night for each tent. Some hikers resent paying to wait just to get on the trail. Keep in mind, however, that the trail cuts through Indian land at many points and without the blessing of all three local bands, hiking the trail would not be possible at all. Wherever you may be recreating it is always a good idea to try to support the local economy in some small way either through the purchase of provisions, local transportation services, tacky tourist T-shirts, or even just a cheese burger in paradise. Those making a living from the recreational trade will prove to be invaluable allies if push ever comes to shove in the myriad land-use battles that define outdoor recreation in British Columbia.

Since inexperience is by far the greatest danger in wilderness situations Parks Canada staff have sought to improve the kind of information each trail user receives. Consequently all West Coast Trail users must now undertake an orientation session prior to starting the trail. Orientations are offered daily at each trailhead at 9:30 AM, noon, 1:30 PM and 3:30 PM. Given the importance Parks Canada places on accurate information it seems somehow ironic that whenever I’ve called as either a hiker, guide or as an author I have received inaccurate information or could not find answers to my questions at all. Parks staff will try to dissuade hikers from harvesting seafood of any kind in Pacific Rim National Park of which the West Coast Trail is part. The fact remains however that doing so is entirely legal, subject to the laws of the province of British Columbia. A fishing license is of course necessary and catch limits must be adhered to. For two good reasons it is better to sample fruits de mer than feast on them. The obvious reason is to limit the impact visitors to the area have on marine life. The second reason is to limit the impact, including death, that marine life may have on visitors to the area. Paralytic shellfish poisoning or red tide is a seasonal toxin associated with all bivalve molluscs that can cause paralysis and death. Pigging out on mussels, clams, oysters and other species of shellfish could have dire consequences even when an area is officially open to harvesting. If intending to harvest seafood contact the red tide hotline [see info grid, page 140] before setting off on the West Coast Trail.

Every morning and every evening Parks Canada staff patrol offshore in red or gray inflatable zodiacs. Those with injuries or requiring assistance can flag the boats down at any of the following preferred evacuation sites:

Pachena Lighthouse Carmanah Lighthouse Camper Bay

Tsocowis Creek Cullite Cove Thrasher Cove

Nitinat Narrows Logan Creek

Being, as the Boy Scouts say, prepared is the single most important thing you can do to make your trip to the West Coast Trail a safe and enjoyable one. The trail is first and foremost a wilderness one. Bring enough food for an extra day should accident or incident demand it. Wear clothing that allows you to stay cool yet protects your skin on hot summer days. When it rains it pours on the West Coast of Vancouver Island and rain it does even in the summer months. Average annual rainfall is 120 mm. Clothing that keeps you dry and warm is just as essential. Cheap backpacks, sleeping bags, tents and footgear can cost you dearly. More than anything pack your common sense along with your toothbrush and you’ll meet the elements evenly matched.

Sundew <<->> The West Coast Trail

Level: Moderate

Distance: 47 km

Time: 4+ Days

Terrain: Undulating

Map: 92 C/9 & 92 C/8

Season: Mar – Oct

Access: The West Coast Trail Express services the Juan de Fuca Marine Trail from Victoria. Visit the website for rates and schedules or call 250-477-8700 or 1-888-999-2288. Catch the West Coast Trail Express from in front of the bus terminal at 700 Douglas Street. Expect to reach the trailhead in the late afternoon. This shuttle service connects to the southern terminus of the West Coast Trail as well as any of four access points along the Juan de Fuca Trail. Reservations are required. See Getting to Tsawwaasen for logistics on reaching the provincial capital from downtown Vancouver.

The 707 hectare Juan de Fuca Marine Trail connects Botanical Beach Provincial Park in the north to China Beach Provincial Park 47 km to the south. The popularity and global renown of the nearby West Coast Trail made convincing argument for the preservation of other examples of the unique environment along Vancouver Island’s west coast. The Juan de Fuca Trail was officially commemorated in 1994 as a tribute to the Commonwealth Games held in Victoria that year. Creation of the trail would not have been possible without generous donations or exchanges of land from Western Forest Products and TimberWest and support from the Pacheenaht First Nation. As many as 100 local, primarily native, youths were engaged in the creation of the trail through a provincial government work experience program. Construction of the trail pumped $8½ million into the local economy. Time your visit to the Juan de Fuca Marine Trail to take advantage of the lowest possible tides. Not only will your progress along the beaches be enhanced, but innumerable natural phenomena become accessible when the tide drops below one metre.

Botanical Beach

The northern trailhead starts at the end of Cerantes Road, 2.5 km from the hotel and government wharf in Port Renfrew. Since we are following the trail in reverse, working through the easiest sections while our packs are heaviest and conditioning possibly not at its best, this hike starts at kilometre 47, counting down as we proceed. Be sure to check the notice board at the trailhead for up-to-the-minute trail condition reports as well as tide tables posted for the benefit of those who may have forgotten this essential information when preparing for the trip. Be sure to correct tide tables for daylight savings time where appropriate.

Botanical Beach was the site of a marine biology research station sponsored by the University of Minnesota from 1900 to 1906. The Juan de Fuca Marine Trail proper skips much of the rich intertidal zone at Botanical Beach. If arriving at the trailhead at low tide plan on spending some time exploring the tide pool-pocked reef and unique geology of the foreshore between Botany Bay and the start of the trail itself before setting out.

Gawking Gullivers: Three other-worldly creatures steal the sun, striking terror into the hearts of the Lilliputian community of a tide pool at Botanical Beach. Tiny fish dart for cover, hermit crabs duck into their borrowed hermitages while their less-armoured brethren scramble under rocks and plants until the towering menace retreats trailwards.

The coast parallels a fault line along the colliding North American and Juan de Fuca Plates. As a consequence, much of the foreshore is an odd mixture of volcanic and metamorphosed sedimentary rocks. At the far eastern end of the Botanical Beach low tide reveals three sea caves. Keen eyes may discern even keener eyes gazing back from a giant eagle nest nestled atop an ancient spruce. Though camping is actually frowned upon here, this secluded corner would be an ideal spot to pitch a tent if arriving later than anticipated. The site boasts both water and driftwood though building a fire too early is sure to catch the keenest eyes of all: those of the park ranger.

Botanical Beach to Parkinson Creek 10 km

The first 10 kilometres of the Juan de Fuca Marine Trail follow a route through climax forest of mixed cedar and hemlock just beyond a barrier of thick salal that rims the rocky shore. Though sometimes cursed by coastal hikers, this salal and other shoreline vegetation provides the important function of “pruning” the gusting wind blowing in from the ocean, thereby protecting the forest which rises behind it. Numerous breaches in this cover provide ample access to the unusual geology of the coast all the way to Providence Cove. The trail is generally easy with many boardwalk sections during the first 4 km. Past Tom Baird Creek watch for sea lions basking on the rocks. Anticipate many muddy sections as you climb up towards Soule Creek [km 43.]

Tiny, well-protected Providence Cove was once an important seasonal village for the ancestors of the Pacheenaht nation. Camping and fires are prohibited at the steep, pebble beach now but forest campsites, bear caches and pit toilets will be found ½ km further on at Payzant Creek [km 40.] Situated high above the stream, the site is accentuated by a delightful waterfall. Tent pads are poorly engineered, however, and fill up with rain water during even moderate sprinkles. There is no direct beach access here.

Except at high tide, less than a kilometre from the bridge at Payzant Creek, you’ll have an opportunity to leave the forest and explore along the expansive intertidal shelf for nearly one and half clicks. Backtracking will be necessary to regain the trail as there is no access at the eastern end.

At Parkinson Creek [km 37.2] there are no camping facilities but you will find a parking lot, pit toilets and an information board. Minute Creek Forest Service Road provides access through the logging clearcuts from Highway 14, 3.8 km away.

You’ll also find very extraordinary seal caves just west of the mouth of Parkinson Creek. The caves are only accessible from the beach during the lowest of tides. Watch for a side trail near the Parkinson Creek trailhead that leads down to a viewpoint. From the bluff peer back west to glimpse the well-concealed seal nursery.

Parkinson Creek to Sombrio Beach 9 km

Push for Kuitshie Creek 4 km further on before camping for the night. In addition to forest campsites and pit toilets the secluded beach is an ideal place from which to enjoy the long, slow evenings of early summer. Along the way hikers are periodically treated to buena vista’s from the bluffs overlooking Juan de Fuca Strait. Such views must be paid for however and the trail exacts its toll in the form of deep ravines, exposed roots, mud holes, deadfalls and numerous stairs to be overcome. As contracted staff spend an inordinate amount of time chasing down delinquent hikers, trail maintenance suffers. Hikers on the other hand are often loathe to pay for such poorly maintained trails. Much of the Juan de Fuca Marine Trail is reminiscent of the West Coast Trail of yesteryear: knee-deep mud and ankle-busting roots that slow progress down to a crawl.

Bushwhacker Blues: Exposed roots, pools of mud, deadfalls and impenetrable salal challenge every step along the Juan de Fuca Marine Trail. Since maintenance contracts are in part tied to user fees, contract holders spend an inordinate amount of time tracking down delinquent campers, much to the detriment of trail maintenance. As one weary hiker put it: “I don’t really feel very good about paying with the trail in such bad condition.” Interestingly, while day-use areas tend to be very well-maintained, day users pay nothing for the facilities.

Just a kilometre before Kuitshie Creek the trail winds past a small grove of ancient cedars that the loggers missed.

The next 5 kilometres to Sombrio Beach through a swath of regenerated second growth are uneventful except for a camping spot at Little Kuitshie Creek [km 33] cut from an impenetrable wall of salal. Expect the usual amenities. Tent sites are gravel-topped and drain well.

Slightly more than a kilometre beyond Little Kuitshie Creek you’ll encounter a suspension bridge across the ravine at Minute Creek. From here the closest approach to Sombrio Beach is just 2 clicks away. The proximity of logging clearcuts can be unsightly at times. Of more concern to hikers, these open gashes in the forest promote the proliferation of berries which can support an inordinate numbers of bears. Of the three coastal hiking routes detailed in this book the Juan de Fuca Marine Trail boasts the largest concentrations of these foraging omnivores. Failure to practice no-trace camping or hang food

The expansive foreshore of Sombrio Beach is accessible more than two kilometres before reaching the Sombrio River when tides are running low. Otherwise stay with trail, a more circuitous route, until reaching the suspension bridge. Cliffs preclude foreshore navigation when the flood reaches its peak. Those taking the boulder-strewn beach route however will be rewarded with two cliff-hanging waterfalls and, at Sombrio’s western end, fossil beds richly-endowed with all manner of shellfish: snails, clams, dentalia and mussels.

A sturdy walking stick can save a lot of grief whenever traipsing across the rocky foreshore with heavy backpacks. Seaweed slick rocks have broken many a wrist or forearm. Even away from the beach the extra stability of a “third leg” will prove its usefulness time and again. Though any stick will do, a collapsible monopod-style walking stick or ski pole can be handy when climbing ladders or steep trails. Ski poles, however, can be slippery on rocks.

Sombrio Beach 2 km

Expect company at Sombrio Beach [km 29.] The access road, though unsurfaced, is short and well-marked with the gorgeous beaches attracting surfers, picnicking families and the overnight car-camping crowd. There are, however, numerous squeaky, wooden tent pads in the vicinity of the river mouth. Towards the eastern half more secluded spots for beach camping can be found.

Little actual sand will be found along Sombrio’s white crescent. Starting at the headland in the west, the beach is comprised of basketball-sized boulders that become progressively smaller as one proceeds eastward. Around the river the rocks have been reduced to the size and shape of sun-bleached baseballs. Small pebbles and sand comprise the foreshore at the headland on the opposite end. At low tide, note the sea caves too at the base of the eastern cliffs.

Whenever following a route along the beach scan the sea from time to time looking for resident orcas and Gray whales. Each spring 18,000 migrating Gray whales pass by on their way to the Bering Sea from Baja, Mexico. As you rest on a driftwood log gaze across Juan de Fuca Strait to Neah Bay on Washington’s Olympic Peninsula and contemplate the revival of coastal whaling that occurred there in 1999. Were the Native American whalers simply reasserting a traditional right? Was the slaughter necessary for the band to earn back the self-esteem that had been robbed from them as their culture collapsed? Or was it just an ill-thought out act of brutality by a mob of celebrity mongerers?

Sombrio Beach to Chin [Zin] Beach 6 km

The headland at the far end of the Sombrio Beach is impassible. To regain the main trail look for bright orange fish floats hanging in the trees. Most beach egress points along the Juan de Fuca Marine Trail have been marked this way. As you climb up the main trail from Sombrio Beach to the cliff top you may realize that you’re leaving the easiest hiking behind. The next 18 km are particularly demanding as the steep terrain is deeply fissured from innumerable creeks that tumble across the Juan de Fuca Marine Trail from the hills above. On the other hand you’ll be passing through exquisite examples of coastal temperate rain forest. After passing Sombrio viewpoint drop your packs and explore the side trail overlooking a shelf where sea lions enjoy basking in the sun.

The main trail next climbs inland eventually following a logging road before plunging down a series of switchbacks to the suspension bridge across Loss Creek Canyon. Once across, the steep terrain with many switchbacks continues for four more kilometres, finally dumping hikers out on to the beach where a new challenge awaits.

The headland just a kilometre further on is impassible at high and even moderately low tides. If the moon is on your side you may wish to undertake a side trip before rounding the headland. During times of extremely low tide, those below one metre, an arch and several sea caves reveal themselves near the western end of Chin Beach. Explore but dally not if you want to continue on to Chin Creek for beach camping at its best. Luckily, an alternative forest route exists for bypassing this barrier. From here to Bear Beach 12 km away there are very few other camping opportunities.

A small grove of giant cedars is accessible via a side trail that leaves Chin Beach just east of the outhouses. It should take 35 minutes unencumbered with packs to reach the ancient big trees. A further 15 minutes will take you to Highway 14.

Chin Beach to Bear Beach 12 km

At the east end of Chin Beach too progress may be impeded by excessively high tides and no alternative exists other than staying in touch with the moon’s influences and planning accordingly. The trail to Bear Beach is a demanding slog over very uneven terrain. Thankfully backpacks should be considerably lighter than when you first started out. The trail climbs steeply up to an emergency shelter perched at the top of the bluff. This cliff top condo is a great place to dry out during times of inclement weather. If you choose to tuck in here for the night the mice who got there first should quickly convince you that tenting out is infinitely preferable. The route follows the bluff high above the beach, cutting down then up again across many ravines and canyons through mature stands of second growth timber. From Magdalena Point, just past Newmarch Creek at the 14 km post, enjoy sweeping views of the Strait of Juan de Fuca before heading back into the forest, now a surviving stand of old-growth. Imagine what human events were transpiring when these giant cedars were just seedlings. The trail rises steeply for a kilometre now before plunging an equal distance back down towards the seashore. A side trail at Hoard Creek reveals a tiny secluded beach. One and a half kilometres further on, where you and Ledingham Creek both tumble out of the forest on to Bear Beach, notice Mushroom Rock, a geological anomaly more reminiscent of Wile E. Coyote country than coastal British Columbia. A kilometre further along the beach, just before reaching Clinch Creek, scraps of a shipwreck litter the foreshore. Depending on the tide, Bear Beach may be divided by an impassible headland just west of a Rosemond Creek. Beach campsites with pit toilets have been set up on either side of the barrier for those who are required to wait overnight for more favourable conditions. Wading around the sheer cliff walls is possible during all but the highest tides, those above three metres. If tempted to risk the crossing, attempt it only during relatively calm seas. Use a walking stick for stability and don’t even dream of wading barefoot. Keep in mind too, that massive rogue waves, created far out in the Pacific, can crash on the beaches along Vancouver Island’s west coast unexpectedly at any time, sweeping the inattentive far out to sea.

Bear Beach to China Beach 9 km

Beneath the cliffs of the east end of Bear Beach notice the wave-sculpted arch. Back track to the last orange marker and climb a unique set of stairs up the headland east of Bear Beach before encountering the rugged terrain once again. Magnificent views from the cliff tops above the beach are more than enough compensation for the steep gorges which must be overcome. Just 6 km on you’ll reach sandy Mystic Beach, an inviting place to camp if waiting for transportation pick up the next day. The end of the trail at China Beach is just 2 km away! Choose your real estate early if you want to pre-empt one of the choicer spots. Mystic Beach can get crowded on blue sky weekends. While hanging out there is plenty to explore. Stretching from a sea worn arch of sandstone at the far west end this delightful beach continues eastward for less than a kilometre past a small waterfall to the cliffs of San Simon Point. As one might expect, these features are accessible at low tide only. The trail rises steeply from Mystic Beach following a route across San Simon Point and one final suspension bridge before reaching the parking lot at popular China Beach.

Trail’s End: China Beach

As with Botanical Beach at the north end of the trail, the southern trailhead too is restricted to day use only. At the far western end of China Beach during tides of 2½ metres and lower, an attractive waterfall and pool are revealed where Pete Wolf Creek pours on to the beach. If time allows continue exploring the rocky shore from China Beach 2.2 km to Jordan River before your ride arrives. The shuttle is scheduled to leave Port Renfrew at 3:30 PM but is notoriously late. Wait for your pick up from the upper parking lot.

Nicomen Lake <<->> Keats Island

Level: Moderate

Distance: 42 km o/w

Time: 4 Days Elev Change: 1280 m

Season: July -Sept

Map: Manning Park 92H/2

Access: See Getting to Manning Park

Backpacking in British Columbia has its ups and downs. Usually, however, there seems to be a little too much of the former.

Nicomen Lake offers newcomers to the sport a welcomed respite. Though long enough at 42 km to present a challenge, the choicest route is predominantly downhill.

The trailhead starts from the parking lot below Blackwall Peak where chubby marmots will doubtless be begging for handouts. From Manning Park Lodge it will be necessary to cross busy Highway 3, heading left on the parallel access road. Find a safe place to hitchhike the 15 km up to the top of the dusty access road.

Buckhorn Birds Beg Bagles: A frisky Whisky-Jack spirits lunch away from one unhappy camper. AKA Canada Jay, Grey Jay and “Camp Robber,” the Whisky-Jack amazingly has never developed a fear of humans and will greet hikers, demanding a hand-out, whenever we trespass in their high elevation domain.

Heather Trail starts from an elevation of 1920 metres at the Blackwall Peak parking lot. Hikers will immediately begin dropping into sub-alpine meadows. Soon the path, actually an old fire access road, will level out. By the time you reach Buckhorn camp, just five clicks from the start, you will be gaining altitude again. Buckhorn is the perfect place to stop for lunch if you got an early start or to set up camp if rushing out after work. Expect company at meal time, since whisky-jacks here have long since grown accustomed to begging handouts from hikers. Otherwise known as grey jays, these bold creatures will make short work of any rations left unattended.

Since many day trippers usually turn back at Buckhorn one can expect more solitude from this point on. Expect to do some puffing too since the slope from here is decidedly up for the next five km. This section of trail passes through the site of an old forest fire. Gladly, the forest is slowly reclaiming its own.

A Family of Peaks

At click seven the Bonnivier Trail breaks off to the right, continuing another 22 km towards the park’s East Gate. Continue upwards and onwards however, towards the foot of First Brother Mountain. The main trail levels out at this point, skirting the shoulders of Second and Third Brother Mountains, but the truly gung ho may want to shed their backpacks and race to the summit. While a relatively easy climb, leave plenty of time to reach Kicking Horse Camp 3½ km further along.

With ample water, a toilet and even a rustic shelter, Kicking Horse is an ideal spot to camp on the first day out. Building campfires in the fragile sub-alpine is not only considered bad form, it is prohibited. Since most hikers, constrained by the demands of real life, will turn back at Kicking Horse the trail narrows somewhat from this point on. While the scenery has been nothing short of magnificent thus far, the best is yet to come.

The next 7½ km is comprised of gently rolling meadows splashed with every imaginable shade of purple, red, white, yellow, blue and green. Since human traffic is limited hikers can expect to encounter mule deer grazing against a backdrop of distant rugged peaks on all sides. You will be gradually losing altitude all day until reaching the razor-edged summit of Nicomen Ridge. From here the trail plunges steeply down a series of switchbacks for two kilometres to the edge of the blue jewel of Nicomen Lake.

Fancy Stance: Hoping for a career in modelling, this chubby buddy poses for the camera atop Blackwall Peak. A colony of hoary marmots greets visitors throughout the summer, retiring to their snug, subterranean city for the ski season.

Even with restraint your descent will be fast. Loose rock presents considerable hazard here so caution should be exercised at all times. Avoid taking short-cuts between the switchbacks as this will needlessly erode already unstable slopes.

Nicomen Lake is perfectly suited for a second night’s stopover. Rustic camping areas can be found at several points along the lake. Rock slides at the foot of Nicomen Ridge are an excellent place to observe the communal activities of large colonies of hoary marmots and pikas, small relatives of the Energizer Bunny that look like rats with big ears, bulbous eyes and furry tails. On one occasion we even spotted a wolverine at relatively close range. Infamous for their ferocity, sighting one of these creatures is sure to send shivers. If you haven’t been toting a collapsable fly rod you will now wish you had. Nicomen Lake is home to thousands of small but voracious mountain cutthroat trout. Most are of the catch and release variety but consult Fish and Wildlife Branch regulations for exact details on size and catch limits.

Down, Down, Down…

From Nicomen Lake you will begin losing altitude at a much faster pace. During the next 11 km sub-alpine will quickly give way to interior dry belt forest of pine, fir, spruce and hemlock. On the forest floor expect to find an inordinate variety of unusual moulds and fungi. Be sure to pack ample water since supplies are limited along this section of trail.

Camping on the third and final night is best at the Grainger Creek – Hope Pass Trail junction. Though rustic, this site is equipped with a fire grate and outhouse.

Those with time on their hands may want to explore, unencumbered, along the Hope Pass Trail, a circuitous route horse riders often use to reach Nicomen Lake.

The final leg of this four day route is a mere 8 km, largely downhill that ends at Cayuse Flats on highway 3 near the West Gate of Manning Park. To flag down the bus, look for a section of road with wide shoulders and ample visibility near this day use area. Drivers will only stop if safe to do so. The Greyhound should pass by between 12:30 PM and 1:00 PM each day.

Stein Valley Mini-Traverse <<->> Juan De Fuca Marine Trail

Level: Moderate

Distance: 29.3 km

Time: 2 – 4 days

Elevation Change: 537 m

Map: 92 I/5

Season: Mar to Oct

Access: Greyhound services Lytton, the nearest community to the Stein Valley trailhead, twice daily. [See <http://www.car-free.ca/miscellaneous/appendix/getting-to-hope-&-lytton.html>Getting to Hope & Lytton. ] As no taxi or other public transportation services exist it will be necessary to arrange for a lift 6.8 km to the trailhead through the Lytton & District Chamber of Commerce. See below for details. If arriving in Lytton without making prior arrangements negotiating with local residents on the main street is also effective and should cost between $10-25 each way. Be sure to arrange for a pick up at the end of your trip as well. Traffic is very limited along the access road so hitchhiking is not a particularly viable alternative. The ferry across the Fraser River, a unique, water-powered craft, does not operate during the heaviest days of spring runoff. If planning to go to the Stein at any time from May through early July check with travel information in Lytton or contact the department of highways to ensure that the ferry is indeed operating.

Assuming you arrived in Lytton on the morning bus you’ll likely reach the trailhead in the early afternoon, too early to set up camp. Those arriving later will find excellent camping at the trailhead on Van Winkle Flats. Water is 300 metres down the main trail at Stryen Creek but an outhouse, large fire pit and grassy, open terrain characteristic of the interior dry belt combine to make for an ideal place from which to get an early morning start. As the Stein River itself can be heavily laden with glacial till, topping up with water from clear-running side creeks whenever possible is advisable.

Trailhead to Devil’s Staircase: 5.3 km

Just beyond Stryen Creek you’ll encounter the first “power spot,” a granite outcropping where puberty rituals were once commonplace. Imagine nearly naked young Nlaka’pamux children left here in the dark, in the cold, often alone, filled with fear and awe and hunger until in a waking dream they encountered their personal spirits. The bizarre creatures daubed in scarlet onto the cliff face are the representations of those visions, the spirits which would guide them and fortify them for the rest of their lives. Their transition to adulthood complete, these young native people were free to return to their tribe accompanied by a newfound strength and purpose.

The trail continues over fairly even terrain for the next 5 km before reaching the ominously named Devil’s Staircase. The forest cover of the lower canyon is refreshingly different for those used to the lush vegetation of coastal British Columbia. Here ponderous ponderosa pine with striking jigsaw-puzzle bark and lodgepole pine predominate in the arid, rocky terrain. There is little understory vegetation and lichens cling to every surface. The luminous yellow wolf lichen is particularly conspicuous, a warning to hungry ungulates to stay clear. Morels, gigantic shaggy manes and pine mushrooms pop up following the autumn rains. All are easily recognizable and delicious and the latter matsutake in particular are harvested by local natives for shipment to Japan where they may fetch $30 – $100 or more per mushroom in the supermarkets. In late summer and fall look for spawning salmon whenever the trail veers near the river bank. Pink, coho and chinook salmon all fight for spawning sites in the gravel of the Stein River with odd-numbered years seeing the heaviest returns of spawning pinks. By November most will have been reduced to spent carcasses, scant pickings for scavenging ravens, marten and bear. At the foot of the Devil’s Staircase a side trail leads to a pleasantly situated campsite. Mount the “stairs” instead and zigzag up to the 400 metre mark where the trail crosses a wide scree slope then descends to the valley bottom again before repeating the manoeuvre up and over rocky talus one more time. While carefully picking your way over these rocky slides note the relatively large, well-formed crystals of mica and quartz. This one kilometre section of trail is by far the most difficult though very few should find it taxing in the extreme. At the foot of the second talus slope a series of pictographs can be found on the cliff faces some 100 metres downstream.

The main route continues upstream through a small cedar grove, winding along the river until the 8.3 km mark where you’ll encounter a teepee on the benchland above the river. Innumerable tent sites, a pit toilet and bear-proof food locker juxtaposed against steep cliffs towering overhead on the other side of the river completes the picture. The teepee stands as a monument to the protest rallies throughout the Stein Valley in the late 1980s during the campaign to save the Stein Valley from certain annihilation at the hands of the logging interests. No need to be beguiled by this attractive site however as excellent camping can be found in many places from here to Cable Crossing. Pause a moment at Teaspoon Creek 1.2 km further on to contemplate the so-called “culturally modified trees” that abound in the large cedar grove here. During the dog days of summer the cool darkness here will be most welcome.

Devil’s Staircase to Buried Treasure: 5.5 km

Keep an eye open for the glint of buried treasure as you cover the next 1.2 km to Earl’s Cabin. Once the home of trapper Fred Earl, the original cabin was abandoned when Earl went off to fight for God and country during World War I. Regrettably, Earl never returned leaving behind rumours of a $12,000 cache of gold which he had reportedly panned from the creek that bears his name. The cabin which occupies the site at present is a reconstruction. The forest hereabouts was opened up considerably during the forest fire of 1994 as Earl’s cabin became ground zero in the battle against the blaze. A rough helicopter landing pad and base camp were then hewn from the forest. The understory vegetation has recovered though the scorched bark of larger trees hereabouts should provide a sober reminder to keep fires small when you must keep them at all.

Earl’s Cabin to Cable Crossing: 2.4 km

The main trail follows Earl Creek upstream to a small bridge before returning to the banks of the Stein River. The next 1.3 km are easy going, leading to a point where the trail is squeezed between rocky bluffs and the cascading river itself. Though in recent history some sections of the cliff have collapsed, the rest of the face is alive with surreal creatures daubed in haematite-based pigments. Continuing on for another 15 minutes or so you will come to a large forest campsite complete with the usual amenities. The cable car, 13.2 km from the trailhead, is nearby. Another trapper’s cabin will be found about 300 metres beyond the campsite on the same side of the river. This cabin was built in 1953 by Adam Klein who began trapping in the area some 28 years earlier after running away from home at the age of 18.

If you prefer a more open setting to camp in, cross the river one at a time on the rickety cable car that dates from 1986 when the Western Canada Wilderness Committee sought to encourage recreation in the area as a way of building support against planned logging. Be sure to unhook the cable car from the landing when finished so other hikers can also cross here. Continue upstream another few minutes along the foot of a field of huge boulders. After spring runoff a large island in the centre of the river makes an ideal site for camping under the stars. To reach the island it may be necessary to get your feet wet crossing a flood channel. Camping here is not recommended during the spring or during periods of high rainfall.

Cable Crossing to Ponderosa Shelter: 7.8 km

From Cable Crossing the dry, arid benchlands give way to the interior Douglas fir zone. Huge cottonwoods, aspen and poplar are common along the river’s edge while the underbrush has suddenly become thick, sometimes impenetrable. Due to reduced traffic and abundant vegetation the trail narrows considerably and can be quite overgrown and marshy in the spring. The 7.8 km to Ponderosa Shelter can be undertaken as an out and back day trip with limited gear or, for those with time on their hands, a camping destination in itself. On the way to Ponderosa Shelter you’ll cross a number of creeks in quick succession. The first suitable campsite is at Waterfall Creek. Just 400 metres beyond note the beaver pond from which you’ll soon climb above the valley bottom. The trail skirts the edge of a succession of “granite gardens” before returning to the flood plains below. Just 20 minutes further on take the left fork of the trail to reach Ponderosa Shelter, an attractive wilderness campsite complete with dilapidated wooden structure.

Most weekend warriors never tread beyond Ponderosa Shelter though the description continues to Cottonwood Creek 8.3 km away through similar, mid-valley, terrain. Returning to the trailhead 21 km away is best done over two days with the bulk of the distance being accomplished on the first day. The remainder can be undertaken prior to making a rendezvous with your prearranged shuttle.

Ponderosa Shelter to Cottonwood Cr: 8.3 km

Those continuing deeper into the valley will encounter the remains of a log lean-to 400 metres beyond Ponderosa Shelter. The next kilometre brings welcomed if brief respite from the marsh and mosquitoes as the forest opens up somewhat before reverting to wetlands once again. Note in passing that many of the red cedars here too bear the marks of fibre harvesting dating to pre-European times. At about the halfway point between Ponderosa Shelter and Cottonwood Creek climb the bluffs for a panorama of the mid-valley. From here swamp gives way to open forest once again all the way to Burnt Cabin Creek where you’ll find a rustic campsite. Continuing on to Cottonwood Creek, the trail follows the river through the flood plains once more, passing through stands of ancient cottonwood then over a boulder garden just one kilometre from the campsite. Attractive Cottonwood Falls is just a few minutes upstream from the camp.

The other campsite near Cottonwood Creek has been set aside as a Youth Rediscovery camp, part of a program aimed at putting native youths in touch with their heritage.

One of the back doors on the Stein Valley, Blowdown Pass, can be reached from Cottonwood Creek campsite. Follow the Blowdown Pass Trail for about half an hour to reach a viewpoint well above the valley bottom. Hiking the 33 km through to Duffy Lake Road is certainly possible though such an uphill undertaking is complicated by a complete lack of public transportation alternatives between Pemberton and Lillooet. Hitchhiking remains viable along this paved wilderness highway for the truly determined. Rather than climbing out of the Stein Valley, follow the route in reverse instead, starting high near Duffy Lake and working down from Blowdown Pass to Cottonwood Creek following the Stein to the trailhead at Van Dyke Flats. The alpine scenery is certainly worth the extra hassle involved. This mini-traverse is detailed below.

Stein River Valley Introduction <<->> Stein Valley Mini-Traverse

The Hidden Place it was called and hidden it remained for some 7000 years. To the Nlaka’pamux Indians who lived at its mouth it was a mystical valley, at once the abode of spirits and the provider of sustenance.

Early European explorers corrupted its Nlaka’pamux name to a more pronounceable Styne. The Hidden Place had been found. Yet as time and new traditions Anglicized its name to Stein, the valley remained largely untouched by the wanton greed that had begun to lay waste to other nearby wildernesses piece by piece. Geography and a marginal endowment of industrial resources have served the spirits of the Stein well. While every neighbouring watershed has endured the brutality of chainsaw and bulldozer the Stein remains today much the same as the Hidden Place that has long provided medicine and meals for the Nlaka’pamux.

Island in a Sea of Stumps

Often called an island in a sea of stumps, the Stein is characterized by rugged, steep-sided slopes, U-shaped from wave upon wave of glaciation The valley bottom is surprisingly flat with a nearly level pitch, making it ideal for hiking and backpacking. Fully six of the 12 biogeoclimatic zones found in B.C. are represented in the Stein watershed. Such diversity supports mountain goats, black bears, mule deer, moose, wolverine, coyote, marten, mink and beaver and provides the grizzly bear with its last refuge in the southwest corner of the province.

Such diversity moreover has traditionally provided the Nlaka’pamux with an abundance of fresh green shoots, berries, roots, tubers, meat and fish.

More than a larder, the Hidden Place is the last refuge of a pantheon of spirits who once guided all aspects of Nlaka’pamux civilization. The imprint of the gods is felt at every step along the river. Numerous “power spots” – high ledges, caves, natural grottos – dot the landscape, bearing yet the visions of dreamers and shamans in the form of wondrous rock paintings centuries old.

Of some 36 know heritage sites in the Stein, with as many more at its mouth, 14 have been daubed with the blood-red representations of mystical events. Often pictured on the rocky tableaux are images of guardian spirits who revealed themselves to native youths during solitary coming-of-age rituals.

The modern day hiker encountering these images can sometimes sense the true power and force of mystic imagination.

Hands Off

It should go without saying that these pictographs are treasures of the Nlaka’pamux and should be accorded all due respect. To mar, deface, or otherwise despoil these treasures is not only rude and ignorant, it is highly illegal. Since the skin contains oils and acids even lightly touching them can cause irreparable damage. Other vestiges of the Nlaka’pamux linger in the Stein. At its confluence with the Fraser where the Indians wintered in gigantic pithouses can still be found the shallow depressions of their winter storehouses. In the same area a boulder carved with petroglyphs can also be beheld. Upstream at Stryen, Teaspoon and Earl Creeks hikers will encounter numerous cedar trees with large, rectangular strips of bark missing. Somewhat unromantically labelled culturally modified trees (CMT’s) by the archaeological community, these small groves of cedars were an important source of fibre for clothing, cord, roofing, insulation, basketry and even diapers. So rare and important in fact was cedar bark that the Nlaka’pamux were willing to walk some 22 km round trip to collect it.

Rough hack marks at the top and bottom of each bare patch, the work of sharp-edged stones, would date the harvest to before the appearance of Europeans with their high tech implements of steel. Only small patches of bark were removed to allow for the survival of the relatively rare cedar trees. That they continue to live today, attests to the truly conservationist nature of the Nlaka’pamux. The Stein watershed was formally declared Stein Valley Nlaka’pamux Heritage Park on November 23, 1995 following a hard-fought 20-year battle to protect the wilderness, historical and anthropological features of the region from industrial development. The park is jointly managed by the provincial government and the Lytton Indian Band.

Stein Traverse

The route as described through the lower canyon is part of a longer trail known variously as the Stein Traverse or the Stein River Heritage Trail. The 75 km traverse starts at the end of a remote four-wheel-drive road in the alpine and is not readily accessible via public transportation. The lower canyon of the Stein where the traverse ends is accessible however, leading to a wilderness area of striking diversity and beauty. The route detailed below takes a minimum of four days, including travel time, though the Stein Valley can be enjoyed as a simple overnighter. Alternately, many more days could easily be spent exploring this fascinating watershed.

With accessibility problems and requiring experience and route finding skills well beyond the scope of this book, the demanding Stein Traverse has not been included. The 51 km Mini-Traverse on the other hand follows a well-marked trail from Blowdown Pass to the headwaters of Cottonwood Creek then on down to the Stein River itself, following the lower canyon route described below in reverse.

Sunshine Coast Trail-Stage 5: Lois Dam to Saltery Bay <<->> Stein River Valley - Stein Lower Canyon to Mid-Valley

Level: Difficult

Distance: 42 km

Time: 3-4 days

Season: June – Oct

Elevation Change: 1280 m

Access: See Getting to the Sunshine Coast Trail

This is the final section of the Sunshine Coast Trail in more ways than one. Much of the route was little more than a sketch on a map until the summer of 1998 when it was roughed out in its entirety. And rough it is though volunteers from the Powell River Parks & Wilderness Society continue to upgrade every part of the trail whenever weather and time permits. The group deserves our applause and admiration first and foremost for having the vision to even conceive of such an undertaking. One thing which sets this project apart is the willingness of PRPAWS to eschew bureaucracy and get on with the project even when confronted with jurisdictional arcania that could easily have stalled similar projects for decades. The thousands of hours of hard labour donated to the Sunshine Coast Trail have literally put Powell River on the map.

From the campground on Lois River the trail leads upstream for a kilometre to the dam [km 133] then continues along the eastern shore of Lois Lake for 6.8 kilometres to a primitive lakeside campsite. On the way at km 136 you’ll pass the start of the Powell Forest Canoe Route at a campsite operated by the British Columbia Forest Service. Picnic tables and outhouses comprise the amenities here. Once the trail leaves the lakeside expect to gain altitude, slowly a first then more steeply as the route switches back and forth up 10 kilometres to the tiny Elephant Lakes. There are no amenities to speak of but camping is permitted at the lakes which are situated more or less at the halfway point on this last stage of the trail.

The next campsite is 8.5 kilometres away atop Mt. Troubridge [km 157.2], a demanding uphill slog that reaches an altitude of 1280 metres. On the way up the footpath passes through magnificent stands of ancient Douglas fir and yellow cedar. What goes up must come down however and the knee-burning descent to the end of the trail at Saltery Bay, 17.8 kilometres away, should take similar time and effort. On the way you’ll pass a campsite at Rainy Day Lake [km 166.4.] Breaking the descent into two may be well-advised depending on your transportation arrangements. Those returning to Vancouver will want to catch the bus on board the ferry from Saltery Bay to Earls Cove.

Sunshine Coast Trail-Stage 4: Fiddlehead Farm to Lois River <<->> Stein River Valley Introduction

Level: Demanding

Distance: 46.6 km

Time: 3-5 days

Elevation Change: 1067 m

Season: June – Oct

Access: See Getting to the Sunshine Coast Trail

Having come this far, the summit of Tin Hat Mountain is an option which should not be missed. Those on a time budget can scale the peak as an out and back overnighter from Fiddlehead Farm. Only those well-equipped and absolutely sure of their abilities should consider undertaking the climb to 1067 metres as a day trip. If pushing on down the Sunshine Coast Trail then consider the panorama from the top of Tin Hat as just a side trip on the long trek southwards. The turn off to the mountain is just over six clicks from the hostel. Leave backpacks securely behind at the crossroads to make the 1.3 km climb unencumbered. Many backpacks have detachable day packs or fanny packs for carrying food, first-aid kit and all-weather clothing in just this kind of situation. From the top the panorama stretches for a full 360 degrees to embrace over 30 Lakes, the Rainbow Range to the north and, to the north-east the South Powell Divide. Be sure to complete the ascent in a timely fashion as Spring Lake, a suitable, if undeveloped site to put up for the night, lies an additional six clicks from the detour. Much of the route cuts through virgin groves of forest that the loggers bypassed. A number of abandoned lumber camps will be encountered on the way to Goat Lake Road. Having flourished a century or more ago most have been reduced to mouldering ruins largely reclaimed by the forest they set out to topple.

From Spring Lake a little-used logging spur leads two kilometres to Lewis Lake where you’ll find a real campsite complete with outhouse.

Home on the Range

The next morning embark on a track along the crest of the Smith Range which divides the lakes arrayed along the first half of the Powell Forest Canoe Route from Haslam Lake which supplies Powell River with its drinking water. A number of suitable tent sites will be found in the vicinity of March Lake 7 km beyond Spring Lake but push on another six clicks to reach Coyote Lake before dark to slice the remainder of this stage in half. The terrain as far as March Lake is relatively flat though expect to be slowed by deadfalls as these sections are infrequently travelled and maintained. Save time for refreshment with an icy dip in Elk Lake before proceeding to the bluffs in the vicinity of Granite Lake. Patches of old-growth around Coyote Lake will provide welcomed relief from the late afternoon sun.

Trail Markers along the Sunshine Coast Trail. Here, a canoe portage for the Powell Forest Canoe Route.

Anticipate steeper terrain along the final 13 kilometres to Goat Lake Main Road though thankfully more elevation will be lost than gained. Walt Hill and Blue Ridge both provide vistas of the surrounding countryside. If running short of time plan on putting up at the picnic area, mile 4 on the Goat Lake Mainline. During times of higher than average fire danger expect to hear a procession of logging trucks and crummy crews heading into the bush well before first light the next morning. Three kilometres further down the Sunshine Coast Trail a bona fide campsite has been established on the banks of the Lois River. Deep pools in the canyon downstream from the dam are popular with locals and visitors alike but be forewarned if a siren blows clear the banks of the river as the sluice gates upstream are about to be opened. Many locals refer to the popular swimming hole as Eagle River. If completing this stage of the Sunshine Coast Trail as a self-contained unit scamper 2 km downstream to Highway 101. Then wait for the bus on the opposite side the road according to the schedule in the appendix of this book.

Sunshine Coast Trail Stage 3: Powell Lake to Fiddlehead Farm <<->> Sunshine Coast Trail-Stage 5: Lois Dam to Saltery Bay