Tag Archives: Backpacking

Sunshine Coast Trail Stage 3: Powell Lake to Fiddlehead Farm

Level: Easy

Distance: 31 km

Time: 2-3 days

Elevation Change: 570 m

Season: June – Oct

Access: See Getting to the Sunshine Coast Trail

If continuing the Sunshine Coast Trail from the previous stage then cross the Powell Lake bridge and, if in need of provisions, follow the road into the old townsite area. A number of small shops and restaurants will be found adjacent to the pulp mill. To regain the trailhead look for a dirt road veering to the left immediately after crossing the bridge at km 50.5. The trail follows a disused side track at the end of the road, 80 metres away. 700 metres further on the route double backs to the right and uphill. If you reach an active log dump then you have missed the turn off. Climb a hundred metres or so up to an active logging road then turn right, looking for orange trail markers some 70 metres down the road on the opposite side from which you came. From the outset the trail climbs steeply over rocky slopes but in little over a kilometre it will bring you back down to Mowat Bay [km 52.8]. Though camping here is not possible swimming certainly is. The small park has a boat launch, washrooms and a snack bar. Look for the trail to resume behind the volleyball courts at the waters edge. A short distance along the trail a sign will confirm that you are plodding along Tony’s Trail as the next 5.5 km section to Haywire Bay Regional Park is called.

The route from Mowat Bay to Haywire Bay [km 58.3] is uneventful save for Wednesday Point at km 55.4 which is an ideal spot to skinny dip or even set up a waterfront home for the night. After crossing the bridge at km 57 turn left and follow the logging road downhill to the boat launch. The lakeside trail is on the left near the bottom of the road and leads, half a click away, to the Haywire Bay camping area. Though just 7.8 km beyond the bridge at Powell Lake, the facility here is a sheer delight to footsore travellers, offering a chance to tidy up with hot showers. If such organized camping is not your thing however, pick up the trail, this time to Lost Lake, about 150 metres past the entrance to the camping area.

Lost Lake and Inland Lake

Thus far the hiking on Stage 3 of the Sunshine Coast Trail has been relatively easy with much of the first 8.5 kilometres being both well-travelled and well-maintained. At km 59 however bushwhacking may be necessary, depending on the season, as pioneer species rush to fill the gap in the forest created by a recent clearcut. Watch carefully for trail markers and black bears. A kilometre later the trail moves up to old-growth topped bluffs. Tiny Lost Lake is not so much missing as it is misplaced. You’ll find it at km 62. Look for carnivorous, jewel-dappled sundew at the swampy foreshore. Half a kilometre past the pond the trails zigzags 30 metres to the right down a disused logging road before resuming its march towards Inland Lake. Though the trail forks a few minutes further on, both forks lead to Inland Lake. During wetter times the left fork is reportedly dryer.

Day hikers and mountain bikers enjoy the easy access to Inland Lake Trail.

The hard-packed, gravel surface of the Inland Lake Trail is level and even wheelchair accessible. Turn right upon reaching it and circle the lake in a counter clockwise direction. There are many sites suited to picnicking, camping swimming or fishing along the circle route with outhouses established at regular intervals. The Sunshine Coast Trail veers off to the right [km 66.8] onto a footpath called Confederation Lake Trail after four kilometres of very easy lakeside walking. Stay with Inland Lake trail for 500 metres past the turn off to reach Antony Island, reportedly the best camping in the area. Spend the night here and you will understand why the locals call this Loon Lake.

A relative newcomer to the region, bullfrogs are an invasive species.

Onward and Upward Next morning backtrack to the sign for Confederation Lake fully prepared to overcome the most demanding section of trail yet. The path climbs to an altitude of 630 metres as it cuts through significant stands of ancient forest. Expect to encounter blowdowns, some of them quite huge, particularly in the spring and early summer. At the far end of Confederation Lake at km 74.1 look forward to finding all the comforts of home. There is a cozy cabin capable of housing six for a night and a picnic area complete with spiffy biffy. Prior to being swallowed up by forestry mega-giant Weyerhaeuser, McMillan Blodel set aside Confederation Lake and environs for posterity. As you’ll be losing the elevation you gained the previous day the final 7.3 km section of trail from Confederation Lake to Fiddlehead Farm [km 81.4] should prove easier going. At the height of summer however finding water along the way may be difficult. Err on the side of caution and pack enough to meet your needs from the outset. On the way the monotony of forest trudging is regularly broken up by bluffs overlooking Powell Lake and Goat Island to the north.

For a bit of wilderness luxury look for the turn off to Fiddlehead Farm at km 80.5. The 33 hectare international wilderness hostel boasts a wood-fired sauna, budget-priced rooms, campground and farm-fresh viands. Those hoping to return to civilization the easy way can board a speed boat back to the Shinglemill Pub & Restaurant at the bottom of Powell Lake for $20. Runs back to town are generally scheduled for Mondays and Fridays and, like the hostel, are available by prior arrangement only. Those intent on keeping to the wilderness as much as possible should detour to Giavanno Lake for a more primitive camping experience.

Sunshine Coast Trail Stage 2: Malaspina Road to Powell Lake <<->> Sunshine Coast Trail-Stage 4: Fiddlehead Farm to Lois River

Sunshine Coast Trail Stage 2: Malaspina Road to Powell Lake

Level: Moderate

Distance: 29.9 km

Time: 2-3 days

Elevation Change: 140 m

Season: Year-round

Access: See Getting to the Sunshine Coast Trail

From the start at Malaspina Road the Thunder Ridge Trail passes through second-growth forest with a sprinkling of old-growth. These lone ancients are likely seed trees that were left behind when the forest was originally downed. One big and gnarly Douglas fir of note measures 2.3 metres through the middle. Big Gnarly, as the locals coincidentally call it, will be found 3.5 kilometres from the start of this section at km 24.8. One further ancient giant overlooks the 28.5 km mark.

An effigy gazes seaward from the bell tower at Sacred Heart Church on the shores of Sliammon Indian Reserve.

The 3.6 km stretch of trail from Plummer Creek Rd. [25.2 km] to Southview Road is flat and easy so expect to make good time. The middle part of Toquenetch Trail, as this section is called, follows a small creek where spawning salmon may be spotted from late summer onwards. Upon reaching Southview Road [28.8 km] turn left and cross the bridge, taking the first right which should be marked Homestead Campsite. Just beyond this intersection look for the trail plunging back into the forest on the left. Homestead Campsite, with creek water, an outhouse, fire pit and picnic tables, will be found a short distance from the little-used side road.

Canyon Trails

The next 8.9 km section, knitting together the Marathon and Appleton Canyon Trails, is also fairly easy going with varied scenery. Each step now takes you further from the coastal environment as the trail winds inland. A number of bluffs in the vicinity of km 31.6 afford welcomed views. Linger to enjoy them as the trail continues through a horror-show clear-cut immediately upon leaving the bluffs. Follow plastic survey tape and metal markers for approximately 200 metres to pick your way through the mayhem. Reiveleys Pond [km 33.5] too may dispense a few moments of quiet reflection though on a hot day a cool dip might be a more satisfying reward for your efforts. The campsite at Appleton Creek offers the usual primitive amenities. Sixty metres past the main site the trail forks with the left leading to Wilde Road and an outhouse and the right continuing through Appleton Canyon. Follow the latter route to reach a succession of tumbling waterfalls and numerous suitable campsites at creekside. The two-kilometre Appleton Canyon is undeveloped at this time so the usual cautions regarding wilderness sanitation apply. Upon reaching Wilde Road [km 37.7] turn right and look for the Sliammon Lakes Trail 40 metres downhill on the opposite side of the road.

The Appleton Canyon segment of the Sunshine Coast Trail drops past a succession of cascades including Gorge Falls, Bandit Falls and Sylph Falls.

Wilde Road to Wildwood

While Wilde Road leads down to Sliammon Indian reserve and fish hatchery, the Sunshine Coast Trail continues east, skirting the edge of Powell River’s wildest, wooded suburb 8 kilometres away. Initially the route marches through forest of mixed second and old-growth reaching Theyetl Lake [km 38.8], Sliammon Lake [km 39.2], Dogleg Pond [km 41.5] then Little Sliammon Lake [km 42.5] in quick succession. Numerous campsites have been established along the way with only those on Sliammon Lake boasting outhouses. All of the lakes are stocked with trout and offer birding opportunities. At km 44.9 the trail abruptly veers left onto an old logging road. Follow the road for 700 metres to a wide turnaround with left and right branches. The right branch leads to Sutherland Street in Wildwood while the left is called Scout Trail and is the continuation of the Sunshine Coast Trail. The road branches to the right again after 100 metres, finally petering out after 800 metres or more to become a proper footpath. If in doubt stay with the orange markers.

As you gradually gain altitude numerous bluffs open up. The best view hereabouts however is from the summit of Scout Mountain 20 minutes or so off the main trail at km 47.4. Nearly two kilometres following this detour the trail empties onto a gravel road. Though Powell Lake is clearly visible to the left don’t be beguiled as your route continues to the right, 40 metres uphill. Less than a kilometre later the trail spills out into Kinsmen Park at lakeside. At the 50 click mark this is the end of the second stage and fittingly the Shinglemill Pub & Restaurant next door is open for business. Unless continuing deeper into the hinterland call for a cab from the pub after toasting your success. Kinsmen Park is, incidentally, the end of the <http://www.car-free.ca/bc-car-free/canoeing/the-powell-forest-canoe-route.html>Powell Forest Canoe Route.

Sunshine Coast Trail Stage 1: Sarah Point to Malaspina Road <<->> Sunshine Coast Trail Stage 3: Powell Lake to Fiddlehead Farm

Sunshine Coast Trail Stage 1: Sarah Point to Malaspina Road

Level: Moderate

Distance: 21.3 km

Time: 2-3 days

Elevation Change: 340 m

Season: Year-round

Access: See Getting to the Sunshine Coast Trail

Catch the first bus of the day to reach the trailhead by late afternoon. From the bus depot in Westview hop in a cab to complete the road portion of the journey. Taxi fare to Lund should be around $30. From here a water taxi, costing $50 for up to six people, will be required to reach Sarah Point. Advanced reservations are a must. There are a number of rustic campsites at the beginning of the trail. The sun-baked bluffs of Sarah Point itself are an ideal perch from which to witness the renowned sunsets of the Sunshine Coast. Load up on water, however, before boarding the water taxi as the point is dry. If blustery weather rather than a gentle sunset greets you then push on to Myrmidon Cove 4 km away on the more protected side of Malaspina Peninsula. Myrmidon Cove is endowed with water but no other amenities. On the way expect pleasant views overlooking Desolation Sound and one small beach at Feather Cove, 2.8 km from the beginning of the trail.

Ocean views and saltwater access will continue off and on through much of the next day. Early-rising bird watchers will want to approach Hinder Lake quietly to avoid scaring the waterfowl away. Use extra care in the vicinity of Hinder Lake as it is a source of water for nearby residents and hikers alike. The Knob [km 7.6] in particular provides vistas of Okeover Inlet. At km 9.6 a side trail leads down to a campsite on Cochrane Bay endowed with both water and oysters. Be sure to check with the Red Tide Hotline before harvesting the latter.

Alternately join the resident beaver for a snack any day of the week at [km 12.1] Wednesday Lake. The feature of the beaver lodge is double-digested bark. If you thought to pack along a lightweight fly rod then perhaps you can tease a trout or two out of the pond and into the frying pan instead. The campsite at Wednesday Lake has drinking water, a pit toilet and the plaintive cries of loons to lull you into slumber. Rather than scooping water directly from the lake, dip into the outfall just beyond the camp to reduce the amount of suspended particulate matter. Lest the beaver sports a fever treat all water to be on the safe side. Giardia is no way to start a vacation.

Gwendoline Hills Trail

The final 9 kilometres on this first stage of the Sunshine Coast Trail are the most taxing. Though you might find a trickle here and a drip there, a reliable source of drinking water is nonexistent. Likewise, there are no established campsites along the way. The trail primarily winds through forest including the occasional pocket of old-growth with viewpoints few and far between. Take them in whenever they crop up. Just past Wednesday Lake a short side trail leads to a viewpoint overlooking Okeover Inlet. At the 16 km mark views in the opposite direction overlooking the Strait of Georgia can be had from Manzanita Bluffs.

A rustic campsite with water and picnic table has been established just 100 metres beyond the end of this section at Fern Creek but far superior alternatives abound just a short distance down Malaspina Road. Okeover Inlet Provincial Campground offers the least developed facilities but running water and pit toilets will be appreciated. If undertaking the Sunshine Coast Trail in small, easily-digestable segments or otherwise wanting to bailout at this point call for a taxi from the government wharf here. Nearby Y-Knot Campsite [(604) 483-3243] offers basic camping plus hot showers. Just prior to the end of the trail a well-marked side trail leads to Cedar Lodge B & B [(604) 483-4414] for those in dire need of both a hot water soak and a pillow. Reservations are required.

Sunshine Coast Trail Introduction & Access <<->> Sunshine Coast Trail Stage 2: Malaspina Road to Powell Lake

Sunshine Coast Trail Introduction & Access

Map: Geological Survey of Canada 1:50,000 series sheets for the trail are 92 F/15 & 92 F/16.

Powell River Visitors Bureau has produced a brilliant map of the entire region detailing, the Sunshine Coast Trail and the Powell Forest Canoe Route and Desolation Sound. The full-colour map includes topographic information, logging roads, and other routes of interest to hikers. Click to download.

The community of Powell River has it all, a remote, multi-day canoe route, a kayaker’s paradise and now a 175 km bush trek. For info on the first two, follow the links: the Powell Forest Canoe Route and Desolation Sound. The latter Sunshine Coast Trail is the most recent development and, though complete, upgrading is expected to continue for some years yet.

Known as “The Hulks,” a flotilla of WWII era transports rings the deep water booming ground adjacent to the Powell River paper mill, providing protection from the bluster.

The entire trail is marked with bright orange squares though more detailed signage will be gradually added. Some campsites are rustic in the extreme but then again that’s why we go there. The trail is so new in fact that this author has yet to hike its entire length. I did however live in Powell River for five years and have tramped and camped throughout the region including many of the areas embraced by the new trail. Since that was well-before the trail was ever conceived the description below will be necessarily scant.

Though on the British Columbia mainland, Powell River is an isolated community sandwiched between Desolation Sound to the north and Jervis Inlet to the south. The Sunshine Coast Trail runs from land’ s end at Sarah Point southward to the end of the road at the Saltery Bay ferry terminal. Ferries connect the mill town with Comox on Vancouver Island and, via the Sechelt Peninsula, to the Lower Mainland. Twice-daily bus service provides a car-free link from Vancouver. Refer to Getting to the Sunshine Coast for full details.

Hot Springs Cove <<->> Sunshine Coast Trail Stage 1: Sarah Point to Malaspina Road

Henrietta Lake

Level: Moderate

Distance: 10 km o/w

Time: 5 h

Elevation Change: 1475 m

Season: June to Oct

Map: 92 G/11

Access: Getting there is as simple as hopping a bus destined for Squamish [See Getting to Whistler.] The Woodfibre pulp mill is no longer in operation which is good news for those averse to the rotten egg scent of sulphur dioxide. The bad news is that the trailhead is no longer serviced by ferry from Darrell Bay. Instead, you’ll have to arrange private transportation across Howe Sound from Squamish. Contact Jay Bicknell [1-866-466-BOAT or 1-604-815-9647] at Squamish Riverjet.

Unlike various trails in Garibaldi Park, Henrietta Lake and beyond are rarely visited by more than a couple groups at a time. The route to Henrietta Lake follows a service road behind the now-defunct Woodfibre pulp mill. Breathe deeply: the air hasn’t smelled so good in decades. The service road will take you steeply up through a series of switchbacks, under a large powerline and up into the Woodfibre Creek Valley quickly leaving the sights, sounds and memory of heavy industry behind. At each branch of the road take the right fork to remain on the mainline.

At kilometre four you may enjoy a brief side trip to check out the flume which supplies the mill with water. A 15 minute stroll along the boardwalk-topped flume itself takes you to the intake pond. On a hot summer day this enticingly deep pool offers an icy jolt that will take your breath away. A metal grill separates the intake from the pool so there is little danger of being sucked down the flume. During times of high water, however, excess spills over the front of the pool creating a waterfall and considerable peril. Use your own judgment and keep in mind that whatever you do on company property is at your own risk. At the very least, top up water bottles here.

Lakeside Refuge: Watertight cabin overlooking the dam at Henrietta Lake.

At kilometre six the logging road abruptly ends at a sturdy aluminum footbridge. Steep suddenly becomes steeper as you follow a series of switchbacks up the last pitch before Henrietta Lake. As the narrow trail winds upward through an attractive old growth forest it crosses and re-crosses remnants of a rail lift that was once used for hauling construction materials up to the lake when it was dammed in 1947. Near the end of the trail you’ll come across a strange looking structure. Keep out! It provides access for engineers from the pulp mill to the underground shaft that drains the lake.

At Henrietta Lake you’ll find the aforementioned dam, a rather rundown but watertight cabin, a rustic picnic table and a floating platform perfect for hot day dips of the skinny variety. The water of Henrietta Lake is surprisingly warm, bearable at any rate and supports a healthy, if over-fed, trout population. Try fly fishing later in the season-say September or October-once the bugs have bugged off for good.

Since water flows were once manually controlled the cabin originally served as a hermitage for on-site staff. Now, with the advent of automation, the cabin is still maintained as emergency shelter. Visitors are welcome to use it but are requested to clean up after themselves. Being mouse-infested, it is suggested that this resort be used only as a last resort, particularly since mice droppings as close as eastern Washington state have been linked to the deadly hanta virus. Outside there are comfortable campsites for up to two tents.

Behind the cabin the trail leads past a sturdy helipad and begins climbing steeply towards Mt Roderick. Look for a rusted diesel “donkey” in the bush to the right. Being less travelled the trail is somewhat overgrown with blue huckleberry bushes in places but is otherwise in good condition. Remember, bears also find the fruit delicious.

Once on top you’ll continue climbing the ridgeline past Sylvia Lake. The best camping is to be had beyond the rock slide. Or take the high road and continue past tiny Woodfibre Lake and on up to the summit of Mount Roderick at 1475 metres. A stupendous view on all sides is the reward for making the ascent.

Gray Whale Tours <<->> BC CAR-FREE

Garibaldi Park: Singing Pass Loop

Level: Moderate

Season: July to October

Distance:

Musical Bumps Route 9 km o/w; Time: 7 h

Fitzsimmons Creek Route 11 km o/w; Time: 8 h

Elevation Change: Roundhouse to Flute Summit +152 m Flute Summit to Russet Lake -945 m Russet Lake to Singing Pass +305 m Singing Pass to Whistler Village -610 m

Map: 92 J/2 Whistler.

A full-colour plastic map of the entire Garibaldi Region is available from Lower Mainland bookstores. Published by International Travel Maps at a scale of 1:100,000. They forgot to include a scale but that’s 1 cm = 1 km. The only other drawback is contour intervals are based on older government charts expressed in feet rather than metres. Conversion yields intervals of 61 m, not exactly a dream number to navigate with.

Access: [See Getting to Whistler.] The Whistler Express gondola will be found on the edge of the main village. The trailhead to Singing Pass starts from British Columbia’s premier four-season resort community. Visitors and newcomers to the West Coast may want to combine this moderate backpacking trip with a day or two spent exploring and relaxing in Whistler Village afterwards. Mountain biking, river rafting, golf are just a few of the summer pursuits popular here.

Until recently most hikers reached Singing Pass via the Fitzsimmons Creek access road, driving to within 7 km of the alpine pass. Washouts along the old logging road now preclude vehicle access. And while hikers and mountain bikers still use the road most visitors to this part of Garibaldi Provincial Park follow the “Musical Bumps” route instead. While purists and the very frugal may insist on reaching the trailhead on foot, trudging up through the open gashes slashed out of the forest for skiers makes for pretty dull hiking. The majority grudgingly dish out the astounding $21 required to ride the Whistler Express gondola up to the Roundhouse restaurant at the top of the mountain. The lift operates daily during high season from the last week of June through to the last week of September.

With most, but not all of the elevation already gained, check the map and information board after unloading to find the start of the Harmony Lake Trail. While trails snake around either side of Whistler glacier the left fork via Harmony Lake is shorter. After reuniting, the route scoots up and over one of Whistler Mountain’s sprawling shoulders before dropping down again to Burnt Stew Lake. M-m-m… What’s for lunch? The trail rises again up and around the “Musical Bumps,” past krumholtz, threading a path through seemingly endless rocky meadows. The faint path first skirts around to the east of Piccolo Summit then cuts over the top of 1981 m Flute Summit just a kilometre away before finally weaving 1½ km back around to the north and east of Oboe Summit.

Typically, during July and August the meadows are alive with a brilliant pastiche of wildflowers: splashes of yellow, purple and blue, white and red against the backdrop of glacial Cheakamus Lake far below and distant crags draped in ice. Stay on the trail to avoid unnecessary damage to the fragile alpine landscape.

After rounding Oboe Summit the route drops down again to Singing Pass less than a kilometre away. Just prior to reaching a You Are Here sign complements of BC Parks note the return trail via Fitzsimmons Creek branching off to the left.

Continue on, the best views can be had from a ridge just a mere 500 metres beyond Singing Pass. When drinking in the panorama of snow and glacier-covered peaks note Russet Lake nestled at the base of Fissile Peak. Make for the acorn-shaped cabin at the north end of the lake to set up tents. The cabin was built by the Alpine Club of Canada whose members frequently ascend the peaks and ice fields hereabouts. Unless planning to join them on the precipices, Russet Lake is the end of the road for backpackers.

Retrace the two kilometres back to Singing Pass where hikers are confronted with a choice. The shortest route back is the way you came, 8 km up and over the Musical Bumps to the gondola which, incidentally, ceases operations at 8:00 PM every evening. The loop route paralleling Fitzsimmons Creek is longer [10 kilometres] and while it passes through a delightful old-growth forest, half of the route passes through some of the forest industry’s finest clearcuts. On the upside it’s downhill all the way.

From Singing Pass the trail drops down through alpine meadows parallel to the course of Melody Creek. Gradually the stunted bonsai trees of sub alpine merge into a forest with trees getting larger as you drop into the valley. As you turn away from Melody Creek the forest becomes a mature stand of timber.

The boundary of Garibaldi Provincial Park is easy to recognize as the forest beyond it has been obliterated. The view does not improve for the rest of the journey though just past the boundary check out an abandoned gold mine at trail side. The gaping cavern, shored up with heavy wooden beams, and rusty ore cart rails are reminiscent of some cheesy western movie and seem somehow out of place here in the British Columbia outback.

Soon after the mine you’ll reach the parking lot from which hikers traditionally accessed Singing Pass. An alternative route drops from the parking lot directly down across Fitzsimmons Creek picking up a service road along the fringes of Blackcomb Mountain. Though more scenic, this less direct route entails crossing Fitzsimmons Creek which may be a torrent early in the season.

Except for a few washed out sections the 5 km from the parking lot to Whistler Village are uneventful. Stay alert for black bears which tend to proliferate in clearcut areas. The end of the dirt road joins Blackcomb Way just behind the main bus loop in the Village. Splurge a little if you can afford it and soak all the trail dust off in a private hot tub. Budget accommodations are also available.

Reviews <<->> River Rafting

Garibaldi Park: Panorama Ridge

Level: Moderate

Distance: 15 km r/t

Time: 5½ h

Elevation Change: 630 m

Season: June to Oct

Access: See previous hikes.

If the scenery from the top of Black Tusk was not enough then gaining the summit of Panorama Ridge will more than satisfy. Follow the same route from <http://www.car-free.ca/bc-car-free/backpacking/garibaldi-park-garibaldi-lake.html>Garibaldi Lake to where you zigged left to the Tusk. Zag to the right instead, this time, continuing along the main trail. The trail forks again at the divide between two watersheds with the right fork leading up to Panorama Ridge itself. Either before or after mounting the ridge be sure to leave enough time to explore the geological wonders along the left fork as well.

West-Facing North Face: Black Tusk dominates the view from a cliffside condo perched high atop Panorama Ridge.

This route leads over the divide, across the cinder flats, then steeply down to the cable car across the raging Cheakamus River. Follow it past Helm Lake to Cinder Cone, a tiny, 200 metre tall, extinct volcano at the foot of Helm Glacier. On a hot day the cool air and eerie blue light inside the ice caves below the glacier will provide respite from the sun. Backtrack now to the junction leading to Panorama Ridge where you’ll begin climbing almost immediately. The route follows a shoulder southward up to the east-west running ridge.

From the summit gaze south across azure Garibaldi Lake to the appropriately named Table silhouetted against the glaciers clinging to stately Garibaldi Mountain in the distance. 2049 metre Mount Price and Clinker Peak off to the right are extinct volcanos, as are 2675 metre Castle Towers and Phyllis Engine directly east. Look north to take in a panorama — thus the name — that encompasses Black Tusk, Cinder Cone and Helm Glacier. From the top of the ridge retrace your steps back to camp. Experienced and well-equipped mountaineers may want to continue following Panorama Ridge in a circuit that sweeps across the eastern arm of the ice field along Gentian Ridge to 2145 metre Helm Peak before descending steeply to the foot of Helm Glacier. This route is not for the inexperienced however as some climbing is involved. Be sure to rope your party together before venturing on to the ice field, Tom.

Ramblings <<->> Reviews

Garibaldi Park: Black Tusk

Level: Moderate

Distance: 14 km r/t

Time: 5½ h

Elevation Change: 850 m

Season: June to Oct

Map: 92 G/14 Cheakamus River & 92 G/15 Mamquam Mountain. A full-colour plastic map of the entire Garibaldi Region is available from Lower Mainland bookstores. Published by International Travel Maps at a scale of 1:100,000. They forgot to include a scale but that’s 1 cm = 1 km. The only other drawback is contour intervals are based on older government charts expressed in feet rather than metres. Conversion yields intervals of 61 m, not exactly a dream number to navigate with.

Black Tusk Access: The bus to Whistler [See Appendix Getting to Whistler] will drop you off at a side road 37 km north of Squamish on Highway 99. Make sure the driver completely understands where you want to get off. There should be ample room for the bus to pull over at the turn off. Look for signs along the Highway indicating Garibaldi Provincial Park, Black Tusk.

After getting off the bus follow the paved side road 2½ km east to the Rubble Creek parking lot. Be thankful you don’t have a car to park here as, on a typical weekend, at least some of them will be broken into. The route to the Tusk begins with the previous Garibaldi Lake trail description.

Whether camping or day tripping, a pilgrimage to the Tusk is de rigueur though climbing to the 2316 m summit is not recommended without special equipment. The trail to Black Tusk climbs away from Garibaldi Lake for three kilometres before rejoining the trail from Taylor Meadows campsite at Black Tusk Meadows. Expect the meadows to be alive with colour in the springtime, a verdant canvas splashed with purple heather and lupins, fiery red Indian paintbrush and golden butter cups all visited time and again by the busiest of bumblebees. Please remain on trails at all times to avoid disturbing this fragile landscape.

Continue through the meadows for a short distance before veering left on the fork that leads 2½ km up through loose talus to the base of the Tusk itself. This striking monolith is thought to be a volcanic plug; a column of solidified lava left behind as the cone is eroded away. The trail ends at the base of the only safely climbable chimney to the top. Novices should not attempt to scale the 100 metre route without benefit of ropes, helmet and the guidance of more experienced climbers. Always ascend or descend one at a time as the crumbly volcanic material presents considerable hazard to those below. The view from the top is without peer, extending from the Tantalus Range in the southwest and turquoise Garibaldi Lake at the foot of Panorama Ridge across to the Fitzsimmons Range in the northeast behind Whistler Village.

Horseback Riding <<->> Ramblings

Garibaldi Park: Garibaldi Lake

Level: Difficult

Distance: 11.8 km o/w

Time: 5 h

Elevation Change: 1210 m

Season: June to October

Map: 92 G/14 Cheakamus River & 92 G/15 Mamquam Mountain. A full-colour plastic map of the entire Garibaldi Region is available from Lower Mainland bookstores. Published by International Travel Maps at a scale of 1:100,000. They forgot to include a scale but that’s 1 cm = 1 km. The only other drawback is contour intervals are based on older government charts expressed in feet rather than metres. Conversion yields intervals of 61 m, not exactly a dream number to navigate with.

Access: The bus to Whistler [See Appendix Getting to Whistler] will drop you off at a side road 37 km north of Squamish on Highway 99. Make sure the driver completely understands where you want to get off. There should be ample room for the bus to pull over at the turn off. Look for signs along the Highway indicating Garibaldi Provincial Park, Black Tusk.

After getting off the bus follow the paved side road 2½ km east to the Rubble Creek parking lot. Be thankful you don’t have a car to park here as, on a typical weekend, at least some of them will be broken into. The trail proper begins from here.

Though steep, the route into this part of Garibaldi Provincial Park can be undertaken as a day trip for those who are reasonably fit. Rushing through the Black Tusk area, however, seems somehow sacrilegious given the sights you will necessarily miss.

After getting off the bus follow the paved side road 2½ km east to the Rubble Creek parking lot. Be thankful you don’t have a car to park here as, on a typical weekend, at least some of them will be broken into. The trail proper begins from here and you will be gaining elevation for most of the day, climbing steeply through a seemingly endless succession of switchbacks. The trail, sometimes derisively referred to as “Garibaldi Highway,” is wide and well-maintained, capable of accommodating heavy summer foot traffic. At the 6 km mark the trail forks with the left branch leading to Taylor Meadows campsite just 1½ km further on.

Continue climbing for three kilometres in the opposite direction in order to reach Garibaldi Lake campsite. Huts have been erected at both campsites but, unless you relish the idea of field mice crawling across your face while you sleep, bring a tent. Snowshoers and Nordic skiers will find the well-equipped huts a godsend during the winter. Because of ease of access from Vancouver both campsites are usually overfull on weekends during the summer. For that reason a weekday visit to the Black Tusk area is strongly advised. 195,080 hectare Garibaldi Provincial Park is the busiest in British Columbia. Camping at Taylor Meadows costs $5 while setting up a tent at the more popular lakeshore campsite costs twice as much.

Continuing along the right fork you’ll soon encounter a viewpoint overlooking The Barrier, the giant volcanic dam that created Garibaldi Lake when a river of lava, ash and cinder spewed out of Mt. Price some 11,000 years ago. For the most part, area lakes drain through, not over, the porous volcanic stone with just puny Rubble Creek visible on the surface. The area below the unstable Barrier has been declared a Civil Defence Zone and, while it isn’t expected to come crashing down into the valley any day soon, an earthquake could trigger just such a cataclysm. The Barrier has spawned massive landslides as recently as 1855.

Following the viewpoint, the trail soon begins to level out before descending to the park headquarters and camping area in front of the aptly named Battleship Islands. Either Taylor Meadows or Garibaldi Lake are ideally situated base camps for exploring the Black Tusk Meadows and Panorama Ridge high above. Pit toilets are available at both campsites but you will be expected to pack out any refuse you create. Fires are prohibited throughout this area.

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Backpacking Checklist

□ Backpack lined with orange, jumbo-sized plastic garbage bags.
□ Sleeping Bag; Avoid down unless planning to do a lot of winter camping. Feathers get soggy under typical “wet coast” conditions.
□ Ensolite Foam Pad; Lighter and more useful than the popular Therm-A-Rest, foam pads can be used for comfort around the camp without worrying about burns and punctures. In emergencies, foam can be cut up and used for splint pads or backpack repair. Yellow foam pads also can be used to signal with.
□ Tent or bivy sack
□ Stove; Avoid the ones which require disposable butane canisters.
□ Cooking Gear; Eat directly from the pot and avoid carrying bowl and plate.
□ Water Bottle; Keep it handy and rehydrate often.
□ Flashlight or headlamp and batteries.
□ Duct tape; 1001 uses from repairing packs, kayaks, boots, etc.
□ Nylon Cord; 20 metres or more. Ideal for hanging food, tarps, wet clothes, etc.
□ First Aid Kit and the knowledge to use it.
□ Knife; Swiss Army: good, Rambo: bad.
□ Whistle
□ Topographical Map & Compass
□ Personal clothing; Lightweight, quick-dry, clothing suited to layering. Avoid cotton as it dangerously conducts heat away from the body when wet.
□ Anorak or other weather-resistant shell. Breathable fabrics are ideal.
□ Sun hat; Wide-brimmed or with neck flap.
□ Sunglasses with UV filtration
□ Sunscreen & lip salve
□ Moleskin; lots if prone to blisters
□ Mosquito Repellent
□ Matches & firestarter
□ Hiking Boots; Well-broken in before the trip.
□ Socks; Ultra-thin polypropylene undersocks used in combination with thicker wool socks will help keep feet dry and prevent blisters. No cotton.
□ Camp Shoes; Back up footwear with the emphasis on comfort; should be durable enough for hiking in if necessary. Sandals are inadequate for the job.
□ Camera
□ Personal effects; Keep it light. First timers always bring too much.
□ Toilet paper

Cycle Touring <<->> Getaways