A project initiated by the Boy Scouts and Girl Guides, the Baden-Powell Centennial Trail was constructed in 1971 to commemorate British Columbia’s first 100 years as a province. This 41.7-km trail stretches from Horseshoe Bay in the west, across the south-facing slopes of the North Shore Mountains to Deep Cove in the east.

Most of the trails on Canada’s rugged west coast have a lot of vertical mixed in with their horizontal. This trail is no exception. Over the course of the Baden-Powell Centennial Trail you can expect to encounter nearly 5 km of elevation change. You’ll climb 2438 metres and lose slightly more, 2530 metres, on the downside. Nearly half of your elevation gain will be in the first section alone.

The trail is readily accessible at many points along its length using public transportation and is best undertaken over a number of days. The Baden-Powell Trail is especially popular in the springtime for preseason conditioning while most hiking routes in the province of are still under snow. The route cuts across a large number of administrative areas. For that reason you will find great variety in the quality of maintenance and signage along the way. Though closed to mountain bikes expect to encounter cyclists at any point on the trail. Keep in mind that if you choose to complete any sections of the trail in the opposite direction from those described below your time could vary considerably depending on the slope.

Mount Fromme <<->> Baden-Powell Centennial Trail: Horseshoe-Bay to Cypress Provincial Park

Level: Moderate

Distance: 11 km

Time: 5 h

Map: 92 G/6

Elev Change: 855 m

Season: June to Nov.

Access: The #246 [Park Royal, Vancouver or Highland] Bus will connect with the trailhead on Mosquito Creek whether you board at North Vancouver’s Lonsdale Quay or at any of the stops along West Georgia in Vancouver. Translink. The #246 Highland bus only originates in Vancouver Monday through Saturday during peak hours. The #240 15th Street bus however follows the same route at any time, necessitating a transfer to the #246 Highland on Marine Drive at the foot of Capilano Road in North Vancouver during off-peak hours. Whichever route you take, get off at the corner of Montroyal Boulevard and Glencanyon Drive and walk west, towards the fire hall, crossing the bridge over Mosquito Creek to find the start of the trail.

The trail to Mount Fromme starts off the same as the previous hike but follows Mosquito Creek’s western bank upstream instead. Within a couple minutes a sign declares that the trail is not maintained by the District of North Vancouver, warning of numerous hazards along the way. The trail is indeed rough especially at the upper end just before it meets up with the Baden-Powell Trail. Sections may even be flooded during spring runoff. The creekside route however is attractive with Mosquito Creek pouring steeply down over a course strewn with larger boulders. Photo enthusiasts may want to pack in a tripod and practice those tumbling-brook shots. To reach the creek crossing upstream at the Baden-Powell Trail should take just 40 minutes.

For an easier but longer alternative walk west along Montroyal Boulevard past Mosquito Creek, turning right at Skyline Drive. Follow the road uphill to the parking area under a BC Hydro powerline. Follow the right-of-way east (right,) staying with the road when it veers north. Continue uphill until the road intersects with the Baden-Powell Trail. Head east along the trail for a few minutes to return to Mosquito Creek.

Whichever route you take, cross the skookum iron and plank bridge over Mosquito Creek and note a side trail leading along the eastern bank of the stream. Though not the route to Mount Fromme, a brief, 10-minute stroll upstream leads to the mouth of an attractive gorge that was originally dammed as a source of water for early North Vancouver residents. The wooden dam is deteriorating now as are the wood and wire pipes.

You may also notice a faint path on the opposite bank at the foot of the dam. During times of low water, boulder hop across the creek and scramble up the steep bank to marvel at a cluster of Douglas fir giants, leftovers from when the North Shore was originally logged. Some of the behemoths have reached 2 metres in diameter and 60 metres tall.

Parasitical fungi, insects and their feathered predators all have a role to play in reverse-engineering dead or dying trees. Eventually the entire tree will be consumed, transformed into into a nutrient-rich soil that fosters new plant life.

The Mount Fromme trail proper begins a few steps east along the Baden-Powell Trail just behind two giant water tanks at the top of Prospect Drive. The trail marker states “To old Grouse Mountain Highway. 50 minutes. Trail not maintained.” In spite of the admonishment, foot traffic is frequent enough to keep the trail open. A maze of old trails, old logging roads and the Grouse Mountain service road can sometimes make getting to Mount Fromme a confusing proposition. The first 50 minutes are steep but straightforward, leading, as the sign says, to the back door route that is still used by the Grouse Mountain Resort.

Turn left upon reaching the dirt road and within a few steps expect to be confronted with a choice. The left fork is a disused logging road that eventually reconnects with the so-called Grouse Mountain Highway. The right fork is a continuation of the “Highway” which loops around to the right in a large switchback. Not always obvious, the middle route is the best option: a 20 minute short-cut named Per Gynt Trail that cuts across the aforementioned loop.

Upon regaining the old Grouse Mountain Highway turn left again. After following the service road for another 30 minutes look for numerous ribbons hanging in the trees to the right of the road. This is the steep, final fragment of the Per Gynt Trail. Forest will soon enough give way to subalpine as the trail climbs up towards Mount Fromme’s North and South Peaks. Plan to take sustenance at the top while gorging on views of Lynn Valley below and Lynn Peak and The Needles beyond. Mt. Fromme was named for the CEO of the company that originally logged much of the North Shore.

Though most will want to return via the Per Gynt Trail an alternative loop exists that leads back down to Mountain Highway. Since the trail, signed to “Senate Peak (North.)”, is badly marked and overgrown only the experienced should consider this shortcut.

Nestled at the foot of the draw between Mount Fromme’s twin peaks lies a mountain tarn known as Meech Lake. Make for the pond after filling up on bagels and buena vistas. Marked with old splashes of red paint, peeling orange squares and the odd pink ribbon, the route plunges steeply down to the Grouse Mountain Highway. At the bottom the trail continues across the road as Pipeline Trail, swinging back to the first Per Gynt shortcut mentioned above.

For an easier out stick with the Grouse Mountain service road as it leads southwest to the main chalet. Numerous sideroads can be confusing but the main one is clearly marked with a sign stating that the top of the mountain is up and to the right. The road will switchback across Blueberry Ski Run several times before reaching the resort proper.

The tourist trap boasts giftshops, resturants and a pub overlooking Vancover where nachos and suds are features of the house. Hiking out on the Grouse Grind is free but a quick exit via the tram will cost $5. At the base of Grouse Mountain the #236 Lonsdale Quay bus leads to the North Vancouver SeaBus terminal. For a faster, all-bus route, transfer to the #246 Vancouver or #246 Park Royal bus at the intersection of Capilano Road and Ridgewood Drive. The former operates during daytime peak hours Monday to Saturday while the latter will take you as far as the corner of Marine Drive and Garden Avenue at any other time before proceeding on the West Vancouver. Transfer to the connecting #240 Vancouver bus to reach downtown.

Alternately, take the #232 Phibbs Exchange bus to Edgemont Village and transfer to the #246 as described above.

Mosquito Creek <<->> Baden-Powell Centennial Trail Introduction

Level: Easy

Distance: 3½ km

Time: 1½ h

Elevation Change: 200 m

Season: Year Round

Map: N/A

Access: The #246 [Park Royal, Vancouver or Highland] Bus will connect with the trailhead on Mosquito Creek whether you board at North Vancouver’s Lonsdale Quay or at any of the stops along West Georgia in Vancouver. Translink. The #246 Highland bus only originates in Vancouver Monday through Saturday during peak hours. The #240 15th Street bus however follows the same route at any time, necessitating a transfer to the #246 Highland on Marine Drive at the foot of Capilano Road in North Vancouver during off-peak hours. Whichever route you take, get off at the corner of Montroyal Boulevard and Glencanyon Drive and walk west, towards the fire hall, crossing the bridge over Mosquito Creek to find the start of the trail.

For those craving open air, the urban walkway along the banks of Mosquito Creek is a pleasant diversion at any time of the year. The trail follows the creek downhill as far as Evergreen Place where the stream disappears — poof! — down a giant bathtub drain. Pause a moment to admire [or scorn] the graffiti “tags” which adorn the walls of the overflow chute.

The trail continues sans waterway through the forest a short distance before it too vanishes, becoming Del Rio Crescent instead. Continue walking southward as Mosquito Creek tumbles out of its subterranean conduit again at busy Queen’s Road. After crossing the road you’ll find yourself in William Griffin Park.

The skateboarders at the skatepark are a marvel to behold, not least because no one bothers to don a helmet. Along the western edge of the trail a new salmon spawning channel is encouraging the return of coho and chum every fall. Beyond William Griffin Park, river and route sneak under the roaring Upper Levels Highway before winding through a thickly forested gully. The trail finally emerges at a grassy field bound by Larson Road and Fell Avenue. Follow the latter two blocks down to Marine Drive and catch the westbound #240 bus back to Vancouver.

MOMENTUM Magazine <<->> Mount Fromme

Access: Getting to Lynn Headwaters

Level: Demanding

Distance: 9½ km r/t

Time: 4 h

Elevation Change: 760 m

Season: May to Nov

Map: Vancouver N 92/G6

For access to Lynn Peak follow the gravel road to the right from the information board, turning abruptly left on to Lynn Loop Trail after 10 minutes or so.

This pleasant forest footpath branches after another 20 minutes. The right fork to 825-metre Lynn Peak is well marked, sloping upwards gently enough at first. Soon however you’ll begin mounting a series of switchbacks that zig and zag and zig again for 45 minutes up to a small south-facing break in the trees. Linger not, however, as the best is yet to come.

Deep Dusk: Not easy to see the forest for the trees as these three crowns poke out of the shadows, catching a few final rays of the evening sun.

Continue climbing at a more relaxed pace for another 30 minutes and an opening known as the Blimp Lookout reveals views to the east of Mount Seymour. Catch your breath here but save your lunch as a further 30 minutes of climbing will put you on top where you may wish to linger, taking in the panorama encompassing Mount Elsay and Mount Seymour to the east and, on a clear day, Mt. Baker, that massive volcano to the south east in Washington state. When you have had enough of unsurpassed scenery and fresh air retrace your steps back down to the trailhead.

Lynn Headwaters and Grouse Mountain <<->> MOMENTUM Magazine

Access: Getting to Lynn Headwaters

Level: Difficult

Distance: 16 km o/w

Time: 6 h

Elevation Change: 1122 m

Map: 92 G/6

Season: May to Nov

The trail to Grouse Mountain continues from where the previous hike left off. Thus far the trail has been relatively flat and well-maintained. The next 1.3 km section continues in much the same vein to the upper reaches of Lynn Creek where it suddenly turns west into the Hanes Valley. A fork to the right follows surveyor-tape markers 3½ km up to Lynn Lake where the creek originates. Expect the going to get much rougher, with the trail often following the creek bed and sometimes disappearing altogether in the underbrush. You’ll gain an additional 330 metres of elevation before reaching the lake.

Let It Rain: British Columbia has something to envy. Twenty-five percent of the world’s remaining temperate rainforests hug the rugged coast of the province. Yet more than half of this rare and exotic ecosystem, comprising just 0.02% of the earth’s land mass, has already felt the bite of the logger’s saw. The province’s remaining forest was once part of an intact ecosystem stretching from Northern California to Alaska. Fully 95% of the temperate rainforest south of the border has been razed. Such scarcity makes ecotourism set in the temperate rainforest of BC an increasingly valuable commodity when properly marketed throughout the globe. The plutocracy south of the border squandered its natural heritage already. We’re halfway there and seem likely to follow suit.

The left fork is no less demanding. Though the trail to Grouse Mountain is well-established, this is a demanding wilderness route with many rough, extremely steep sections. On the way you’ll gain an additional 892 metres of elevation. You may encounter heavy snow pack as late as June. During the spring runoff Lynn Creek may be impassible so be prepared to turn back early in the season. After fording the creek you’ll be following Hanes Creek up to Crown Pass 4½ km away. Numerous peaks are accessible from the pass while the main route to the left leads down to the Grouse Mountain Skyride an additional 3.6 km away. If hunger and thirst assail you at this point the main chalet has plenty of options to satisfy both. The truly gung ho may be tempted to walk down the Grouse Grind against the current of sweaty trendoids running up. Doing so will add a very steep 2.9 km to your day, saving you a few dollars.

Whether you choose to ride the tram down or hike out you can catch the bus back to Vancouver behind the main office at Grouse Mountain base. The #236 Lonsdale Quay bus will take you to the North Vancouver SeaBus terminal from which downtown Vancouver is just a 20-minute boat ride away. Alternately the #232 Phibbs Exchange bus will take you to Edgemont Village where you have to transfer to the #246 Vancouver or #246 Park Royal bus. The latter version is bound for West Vancouver necessitating yet another bus transfer at the corner of Marine Drive and Garden Avenue after the evening rush hour Monday to Saturday and all-day Sunday. With luck you’ll meet the connecting #240 Vancouver bus for the Lion’s Gate Bridge crossing.

For those who may be put off by the elevation gain an alternative would be to undertake the described route in reverse. Gain your elevation by taking the tram up to Grouse Mountain then walking up and over Crown Pass. Hanes Valley will lead you down to Lynn Headwaters Regional Park.

Norvan Falls <<->> Lynn Peak

Access: Getting to Lynn Headwaters

Level: Moderate

Distance: 14 km r/t

Time: 6 h

Elevation Change: 230 m

Map: 92 G/6

Season: April to Nov

From the information board take the left fork, following a wide, flat path paralleling the creek. On the left you’ll soon notice a stack of old, creosote covered wooden pipes, vestiges of North Vancouver’s water supply from the 1920s to 1983. After 1.7 km the trail forks. The easiest and most interesting route lies to the left on the Cedars Mill Trail. In the underbrush to the right of the trail you’ll note a miscellany of rusted artifacts dating to the early days of B.C. logging. These scraps of history are protected so refrain from pocketing a souvenir of your visit.

A Far Sketchier Route: To reach the top of Coliseum Mountain continue climbing above Norvan Falls. The trail, an additional 6 km each way, is far steeper from this point forward. Pictured here, Coliseum Mountain from the backside as seen from the Seymour River Salmon Hatchery.

Except during periods of high water it is possible to catch a glimpse of a giant western red cedar, nearby. A rough trail, adjacent to the old mill site but across Lynn Creek leads steeply up the bank to the foot of a 600 years old conifer measuring 50 metres tall and 4 metres around at the base. Be sure to exercise caution when rock hopping across the waterway. Follow the rough trail back downstream to see other cedar and Douglas fir giants that the loggers overlooked.

At the end of this 2.1 km section the trail opens up on a boulder field, evidence of periodic flooding. Enjoy the sunshine at creek side here as the trail next plunges into the forest darkness following a succession of old logging roads for 2.9 km to the bridge at Norvan Creek. On the way you’ll pass by another heap of historic relics. Broken bits of porcelain, a dented tea kettle and old, broken handsaws attest to the forestry operations which began here in the mid-1880s. Check out the massive stumps hereabouts and imagine the backbreaking work that must have been required to saw through one of these giants balanced on a springboard two or more metres above the forest floor.

Picturesque Norvan Falls will be found 300 metres upstream from the Norvan Creek Bridge. Whether turning back or continuing on to Grouse Mountain plan to stop here for lunch.

Lynn Loop <<->> Lynn Headwaters and Grouse Mountain

Access: Getting to Lynn Headwaters

Level: Easy

Distance: 5.7 km r/t

Time: 2½ h

Elevation Change: 250 m

Map: 92 G/6

Season: April to Nov

At 5.7 km, Lynn Loop is slightly longer and a somewhat steeper than the former stroll. In order to avoid climbing the switchback sections at the top end of the trail it is recommended that you complete the trail in a counter-clockwise direction. If so, expect the first half of the hike to wind through a mature, second generation forest while the return trip is more open, following the banks of Lynn Creek. Pause a moment to cool your toes here: but remember your toes and everyone else’s have rendered the water undrinkable.

Be Bear Aware: Lynn Headwaters is home — you are the invasive species — to both <http://www.car-free.ca/ramblings/ramblings/bear-attack.html>black bears and cougars. Neither wants an encounter with that nasty species, homo sapiens. Be alert at all times, travel as a group and possess foreknowledge of how to react when encountering these magnificent creatures on their own turf.

Lynn Loop Trail begins a short distance to the right [south-east] of the bridge. Watch for directional signs on the left of the road towards Rice Lake. The first half of the trail follows the high ground along a bench well above Lynn Creek. The first junction you’ll encounter leads up to Lynn Peak. Take the left fork instead for a short distance until you see another side trail veering off to the right. A few minutes along this track leads to a couple of glacial erratics, giant boulders deposited by receding glaciers at the end of the last ice age. Back on the main trail you’ll reach a major junction at the 3.1 km mark. Note the massive, upside-down cedar stump here. To return to where you started take the left fork 0.7 km down through a series of steep switchbacks. At the bottom you’ll take a left again following Lynn Creek downstream for 1.7 km of easy hiking.

An alternative route continues along the bench land for an additional 2.4 km to the debris chute at the start of the trail to Norvan Falls and on to Grouse Mountain. Though, considerably longer, you’ll drop down to Lynn Creek at a much more gradual pace. From the debris chute double back along the Cedars Mill Trail for 2.1 km before regaining the Lynn Loop Trail. Altogether, this extension will nearly double your hike to 10.3 km but the going is no more difficult than the shorter option detailed above.

Rice Lake <<->> Norvan Falls

Access: Getting to Lynn Headwaters

Level: Very Easy

Distance: 4 km r/t

Time: 2 h

Elevation Change: 25 m

Map: 92 G/6

Season: Year Round

By far the easiest hike in the area is the pleasant 4 km saunter around Rice Lake. To reach the lake head up the hill to the right of the information board. Follow the directional signs to Rice Lake on the left side of the road. At the dock, pause to ask the trout fishermen about their luck and, out of curiosity, peer into the water along the pilings. Depending on the time of the year you’re bound to see countless salamanders. Suspended in the water too, those tiny orange specks are, in reality, a fresh water cousin to the brine shrimp of “sea-monkey” fame. The fresh water variety are called daphnia or water fleas.

Lynn Headwaters: Access & Map <<->> Lynn Loop

Access: From downtown Vancouver hop a #210 Upper Lynn Valley bus from Dunsmuir Street next to Burrard SkyTrain station. Stay on the bus to the end of the line at the corner of Evelyn & Underwood Streets. The bus trip should take around 45 minutes. Take the short-cut east past two tennis courts and continue half a block to the corner of Dempsey and Lynn Valley Roads. From there you’ll see the park entrance to the north. Follow Intake Road for about a kilometre before reaching the park proper.

Those in North or West Vancouver can take the #228 Lynn Valley bus from Lonsdale Quay to the corner of Dempsey and Lynn Valley Roads.

Formerly the source of drinking water for the city of North Vancouver, Lynn Headwaters Regional Park was opened to the public when floods damaged water intakes in 1983. Hiking is by far the main attraction here with trails suited to all levels of experience and ability.

Be sure to top up your water at the picnic area as most of the water you’ll meet up with while hiking has been polluted by people and their dogs. From the picnic area cross the bridge to access the trails of 4,685-hectare Lynn Headwaters Regional Park. An information board here provides hikers with background information on the park, directions, maps, trail conditions and common sense safety information.

Buntzen Lake: Miscellaneous <<->> Rice Lake

Level: Easy

Distance: 4 km r/t

Time: 1½ hr Elevation: 50 m

Season: Year Round

Map: 92 G/6

Access: Take the bus to Horseshoe Bay and catch the ferry to Langdale on the Sunshine Coast. Crossing time is 40 minutes. As you step off the loading ramp of the Langdale ferry you’ll find the foot passenger ferry to New Brighton immediately on your right. Since this ferry services both Gambier Island and Keats Island make sure you get on the correct sailing.

To avoid retracing your steps, contact Cormorant Marine water taxi [604-250-2630] in Horseshoe Bay to find out if any trips are planned directly to West Bay. Though scheduling is sporadic and custom trips prohibitively expensive it may be possible to piggyback on another previously scheduled outing for just $20 or so. From West Bay just follow the directions below in reverse, returning via ferry from New Brighton and Langdale.

A boat ride or two, a pleasant rural stroll, and lunch at a charming country store are the highlights of this low-key day trip. From the government wharf in New Brighton climb the hill past the pay phone, staying with the right fork when you reach the Gambier Island General Store [604-886-3838.] Soon enough the road levels out, taking you past old homesteads and newer recreational properties as it winds through mixed forest of maple, hemlock and fir.

Think Globally, Buy Locally. Gambier Island Store has a sandwich and a porch swing with your name on it.

Chest-high glades of sword fern burning with backlight offer plenty of opportunities for the photographically-inclined. Continue straight at the only other intersection en route to reach the long pier at West Bay. Or turn right and take a side trip to Gambier Harbour, adding 6 km to your day. Return to the general store for a gourmet sandwich before heading back to the city. Later in the summer picking blackberries along the foreshore is a good way to kill time while waiting for the ferry.

Cave Exploring <<->> Cycle Touring