Category Archives: Sea Kayaking

Desolation Sound

Level: Moderate

Tide Table: Prideaux Haven

Time: 1-7 days

Marine Chart: 3312 Desolation Sound

Warning: Water Scarce

Red Tide Alert: Desolation Sound

Distances:

Lund – Copeland Islands: 3 km Lund – Tenedos Bay: 25 km

Tenedos Bay – Prideaux Haven: 9 km Prideaux Haven – Refuge Cove: 15 km

Prideaux Haven – Grace Harbour: 19 km Okeover Arm – Grace Harbour: 9 km

Okeover Arm – Wootton Bay: 11 km Okeover Arm – Prideaux Haven: 25 km

Desolation Sound is one of the crown jewels of kayaking in British Columbia. A week most certainly will not be enough to explore all the nooks and crannies of this vast Provincial Marine Park. The park itself encompasses more than 60 km of shoreline. Arrange for pick up with your kayaking outfitter upon arrival at the Powell River bus depot or take a thirty-dollar taxi ride to either Okeover Arm or Lund 23 km north of town. If arriving on the second bus of the day you’ll find camping at both departure points. The cramped conditions at Okeover Arm Provincial Park are somewhat less than what one has come to expect from BC Parks. Private camping and showers can be found at nearby Y-Knot Camping & Charters.

Snapshot: Plying the sun-dappled waters of Desolation Sound near Galley Bay. Salt water is anathema to the fine micro-electronics of a camera. Keep it well-wrapped in multiple layers of plastic. A large Tupperware container securely bungeed to the deck will keep photo tools handy while paddling.

Though catering to the RV crowd, the private walk-in campsites at Lund are well-situated, overlooking picturesque Lund Harbour. Expect to find showers, laundry facilities and plenty of mosquitoes at SunLund By-The-Sea. If looking for something to do while swatting the bugs away head for the patio at adjacent Lundlubber’s BBQ where you can find a mean burger and frosty brew. Lund, with a population of just 800, has more than its share of funky cafes, coffee shops and gift boutiques. Keep in mind though that the sidewalks vanish rather early hereabouts. The general store doubles as a licensed liquor outlet for those who forgot to pack “provisions.” With luck you can even catch some culture before dipping your paddle as an active theatre group regularly mounts amateur productions in the local community centre.

Hot Tip

Powell River Visitors Bureau has produced a brilliant map of the entire region detailing, the Sunshine Coast Trail, the Powell Forest Canoe Route and <http://www.car-free.ca/bc-car-free/sea-kayaking/desolation-sound.html>Desolation Sound. The full-colour map includes topographic information, logging roads, and other routes of interest to mountain bikers, horseback riders and hikers. Key scuba diving, kayaking, climbing and camping locations are also highlighted. Click the link above to obtain a free copy of this excellent resource. Registered users can download a high resolution scan of the map in PDF format from the <http://www.car-free.ca/index.php/downloads>downloads section of the BC Car-Free website.

Upon awakening in the morning, coffee hounds will want to head directly for Cinnamamma’s Bakery in front of the Lund Hotel and Pub. The boat launching ramp behind the hotel is as good a place as any to meet up with your kayak outfitter if you went the taxi route.

One of the four outfitters which service the Powell River area calls Lund Hotel home. Ironically-named Good Diving & Kayaking, though ideally situated, offers the worst, surliest service on the coast. Only clunky plastic kayaks are offered for rent here though it is doubtful you will be told of that prior to renting. If you ask however, the owner will assure you that nobody uses fibreglass any more. Having rented kayaks at nearly every outfitter in British Columbia I can assure you that once again the exact opposite is true. Good is not equipped to transport kayaks back across Malaspina Peninsula so a circuit starting in Lund and ending in Okeover Arm is out of the question.

Y-Knot Camping & Charters, situated at Okeover Arm, offers a good selection of fibreglass boats but lack of a shuttle service also precludes the circuit as described below. Only Powell River Sea Kayak and Wolfson Creek Ventures will transport boats to your destination of choice. Both of these latter outfitters will also pick customers up at either the bus depot or airport in Powell River for a modest fee. No matter which outfitter you choose be sure to arrange to leave your backpacks with them before booking your boats.

Catching the first bus out of Vancouver will enable paddlers to be on the water by late afternoon if everything goes according to plan. From Lund Harbour turn north and if the prevailing winds are blowing, ride the breeze to the Copeland Islands just half an hour away. Some may be tempted to skip this 437-hectare Provincial Marine Park, taking advantage of the long evenings of summer to reach deep into Desolation Sound itself. Missing this charming archipelago would be aesthetic folly however. Set up camp early instead and use the extra daylight to explore the many rocks and islets in and out of the park known collectively as the Ragged Group. A word of warning one of the islands we camped on had an inordinate number of wood ticks. Be sure to keep the mosquito netting on your tent closed all times.

Look for a small collection of pictographs on the cliffs of Thulin Passage including one of a clearly discernible dolphin or orca-like creature. The prehistoric rock paintings are easy to find, just look for graffiti on top of them. That’s right, some moron splashed the word ACTIVE in bold, black letters across this priceless, irretrievable rock art. How someone could commit such an atrocity may be beyond comprehension but, if in your travels around the coast you ever happen upon a boat called Active, feel free to drill a few holes in the hull below the waterline.

Awaken refreshed and continue exploring northwards past Townley Island and the Powell Islets before rounding Sarah Point into Desolation Sound itself. If running short of water the Ragged Island Marina in Sharpes Bay is a dependable source. Sarah Point, named after one of Captain Vancouver’s sisters, is the northern terminus of the recently completed Sunshine Coast Trail. stretching 180 km south to Saltery Bay ferry terminal. During inclement weather it is possible to haul kayaks out and even camp here though the location is somewhat exposed.

Sudden Surprise: The sun peeks out again, sheepishly, after delivering a surprise black squall. Never underestimate what the weather can deliver. This time, while kayaking in Desolation Sound, just ten minutes warning was enough time to set up the tent and stow the gear before the wall of water hit. Kinghorn and Station Islands in the distance are located at the tidal midpoint of Georgia Strait.

Nearby Kinghorn Island is the tidal midpoint of Georgia Strait. Water to the north of the island flows northwards rounding Vancouver Island at Cape Scott while that on the south shore is sucked by the moon past Victoria and out into the open Pacific. Being the last part of the inland waterway to feel the influence of the tides, the waters of Desolation Sound are not so thoroughly flushed and mixed by the tides as the waters on other parts of the coast. As oysters and swimmers alike can attest, the waters of Desolation Sound are considerably warmer than elsewhere.

Next scamper past Malaspina Inlet and the sometimes turbulent water off Zephine Head, making for a small islet at the far end of Galley Bay. This is one of the few spots beyond the Ragged Islands where kayakers can step out and stretch the kayak kinks out of their legs. Though a delightful place to camp, many will want to push on to Tenedos Bay.

From the Copelands to Galley Bay should take three to four hours depending on tides, winds and paddling ability. Continuing on to Tenedos Bay requires an additional two to three hours. Halfway there, the oyster-encrusted beaches of Portage Cove are a good place to stretch once again. Don’t be bullied by the “No Trespassing” signs here. While the land above the high tide mark may well be private property, the foreshore belongs to you and me. At some point in your explorations of Desolation Sound you may be tempted to sprint across the narrow isthmus at the head of enticingly named Portage Cove. Don’t even dream of it. Once a convenient short cut for native Indian paddlers, hence the name, Portage Cove is now a dead end. In spite of the best efforts of BC Parks negotiators, the owner has an unwavering faith in the supremacy of private property. Fortunately for him the law is on his side. You, however, have to paddle around Gifford Peninsula. Kayakers have no other option but to respect that privacy.

Pearly Stowaway: Can you spot the Japanese import in this photo? Actually, it’s a trick question as both the woman and the giant oyster came from Japan. The introduction of oysters however predates the Sony Walkman by more than a century. Sailing ships carrying lumber to Japan had to fill up with ballast for the return voyage. Crews scooped up sand and rocks and everything else including oyster spawn from Japanese beaches, carried it across the ocean then dumped it overboard before loading up with BC forest products again. The oyster obviously liked what it saw, proliferating rapidly along the coast and supplanting the indigenous Olympia oyster as it did so. Screw shells and oyster drills likewise stowed away then multiplied, with the latter predator becoming somewhat of a pest. As their name suggests these sea snails bore through the protective shells of their prey, slurping up the delicacies inside. Oyster drills can wreck havoc on mariculture.

There is however, no better place — perhaps in the world — to collect oysters, keeping collection limits and red tide warnings in mind. Let’s hope someone remembered to pack the soy sauce and wasabi.

At Tenedos Bay, also known as Deep Bay, you’ll find a number of rustic campsites, fire pits, outhouses and all the water you could ever want to drink. Unwin Lake, just a short, 5-minute hike away, is a great place to swim and wash the salt scum away. Though lacking similar amenities, the nearby Curme Islands are an exceedingly popular place to pitch tents as well. The northern grouping of islets offers the most accessible camping.

Further on, Prideaux Haven is paddlers’ heaven. This intricate maze of islands, rocks and deep narrow coves is just the sort of place the yachting set have in mind when they talk about “gunkholing.” Sadly, because of sewage from the many yachts and kayakers alike, the waters of Melanie Cove and Laura Cove are closed to the harvesting of bivalve molluscs.

Those who want to stretch their legs a bit can walk between the two coves along an old logging road. Look also for the remains of Old Phil’s homestead at the head of Laura Cove. Melanie Cove had its hermit hand logger too but time and forest have reclaimed the last vestiges of Philosopher Mike’s cabin. The shallows of Prideaux Haven reach bathtub temperatures on a hot summer day, perfect for practising group and self-rescue techniques.

Places to camp abound throughout Prideaux Haven though drinking water can be difficult to find. A small, seasonal stream near the tiny island at the head of Melanie Cove may yield potable water. Numerous creeks beyond Prideaux Haven trickle into the salt chuck but the nearest dependable source is a brisk 1½ hour paddle up Homfray Channel at Lloyd Creek. Don’t drink it all on the way back. Across the channel from Prideaux Haven water can also be found at Black Lake at the head of the Roscoe Bay on West Redonda Island. The warm waters of Black Lake attract an inordinate number of swimmers so you are advised to top drinking water up at the little spring that dribbles into the lake some 100 metres along the northern shore. There is also a waterfall on the northern shore at Roscoe Bay’s widest point. Hereabouts you’ll find plenty of evidence of bygone logging operations as well as remnants of an unsuccessful homestead. After topping up some paddlers may enjoy a hike up to Lianover Mountain [2240 metres.] Allow two hours round trip. At 5215 metres, Mt. Addenbroke, on adjacent East Redonda Island is the tallest point on any of the islands of BC’s tattered coast.

Whether hiking, camping or paddling you may want to pause for a moment to wonder what it was that inspired Captain George Vancouver in 1792 to label this area “desolate.” Was it a simple case of the blues or did Desolation Sound’s peculiar doldrums oppress him somehow? Certainly calm would have been of great concern to a sailor dependent on the wind for locomotion. He complained about the fishing as well as the stillness of the air. Of course oysters could not have been on the menu but mussels and clams should have been a complement to the then abundant salmon, cod, snapper and other fish. Maybe he forgot to pack the “buzzbombs.”

Naturally, at that time, Cap’n George couldn’t just scoot over to Refuge Cove, civilization’s nearest outpost in Desolation Sound. Present day explorers can find a range of services including telephone, water, groceries, liquor store, laundry and shower facilities, a restaurant, gift shop, post office and even “buzz bombs” and other fishing tackle. Those not craving a black cherry ice cream cone may want to explore the shores of Mink Island before setting a course for the protected waters of Malaspina Inlet. Be sure to keep together when crossing the open sound in order to heighten the visibility of your group. The nest of fjords hidden behind Malaspina and Gifford Peninsulas is home to extensive aquaculture operations. The first suitable beach camping will be found near Kakaekae Point. Delightful Grace Harbour beyond offers more developed facilities including water, pit toilets and a number of onshore campsites. A third alternative will be found at Edith Island overlooking the junction of Malaspina, Okeover and Lancelot Inlets. Allow four to five hours to cover the distance between Prideaux Haven and Grace Harbour.

Set aside at least a day for exploring Lancelot and Theodosia Inlets. The best water in the area will be found at Thors Cove so top up before heading deeper into the fjord. Thynne Island is one of just two spots that are ideal for camping in the area. Captain Vancouver is known to have breakfasted on the island more than 200 years ago following the disappointing revelation that Theodosia Inlet was not the beginning of the mythical Northwest Passage after all. You too can discover the massive tidal flats that broke his heart at the head of the inlet. Theodosia Inlet was home to a bustling logging community of 5000 in the early 1900s. The logging railway which eventually reached 50 km inland closed down during the Dirty Thirties though active logging continues to the present day.

Good camping can also be found on Madge Island in Isabel Bay. Expect to find artifacts dating to the days of hand logging on the island while on shore, at the north end of the bay, the remains of a number old cabins and a seasonal creek that in a pinch may provide water will be found.

The route as described should take from five days to a week though exploration could easily be broken down into a series of weekenders as well. Exploration of the Ragged Islands could be accomplished as an overnighter. Likewise a two or three-day weekend would be plenty of time to poke around in the various fjords adjacent to Okeover Arm. A similar amount of time would be needed to reach Tenedos Bay and Prideaux Haven though the pace would be far from leisurely.

Trincomali Channel <<->> San Juan Islands - Shaw Island

Trincomali Channel

Level: Challenging

Distance: 82 km

Time: 2-3 days

Tide Table: Dionisio Pt

Warning: Strong Winds

Marine Chart: 3313

The Gulf Islands is the name commonly associated with a group of more than 200 rocks, islets, and islands sprinkled all along the southeastern shore of Vancouver Island. And while just about any place among the islands is interesting enough for day or overnight paddling, the following route ties a number of features together including exquisite geology, limited human habitation, bountiful nature, convenient access, two kayak rental companies and excellent camping in a route rarely travelled by commercial water craft. There are a few drawbacks to this otherwise perfect location. Water is scarce so bring plenty, four or five litres per day at least. The sea is polluted from sewage making any kind of shellfish consumption out of the question. Crabs or fish are fine however and swimming is not a problem.

You may reach Trincomali Channel via Tsawwassen Ferry terminal [See Appendix Getting to Tsawwassen.] Ferry service is very limited to Galiano Island so give yourself plenty of time to board the ferry. Debark at Sturdies Bay and call a taxi to take you to either one of two kayaking outfitters at Montague Harbour. If you decide not to begin paddling in earnest right away Montague Harbour Provincial Park is an excellent place to camp while preparing for an early morning start. Reservations are recommended but be sure to specify the more scenic walk-in campsites when you call. Even without reservations there should be plenty of space in the grassy overflow camping area. An added bonus to spending a night on Galiano is the shuttle bus that arrives at the park gate every hour on the hour to whisk thirsty campers away to the renowned Hummingbird Pub for exceptional micro-brewery beer and the finest fish and chips in the Gulf Islands. The bus returns to the campground on the half hour all evening long. The bus service, which costs $2 round trip, is seasonal, beginning on the May 24th long weekend and wrapping up on the Labour Day weekend in September. Service commences at 6 PM and continues on until last call at 11:30 PM.

Don’t drink too much, however, as an early morning start is recommended to take advantage of the typically calmer conditions that dawn brings. With luck and planning you’ll be able to catch an incoming tide to help propel you along to your destination.

Choose your route depending on wind and weather conditions. If calm you may want to explore the group of islands just off Montague Harbour including the bird sanctuary at the Ballingall Islets. From here you’ll have to make a dash across the open waters of Trincomali Channel. It is recommended that you head straight across the Channel to Saltspring Island in order to limit your exposure to wind, wave and marine traffic. Out of harm’s way, you’ll want to check out Walker Hook before continuing on to Wallace Island.

Alternately hug the coastline of Galiano as you paddle northward. Even though you can expect to repeat this section on the return voyage it is certainly worth repeating.

Just 2 km beyond the white shell beach of Montague Harbour Marine Park you will encounter a large low-lying rock that serves as a harbour seal nursery. Remain well offshore to avoid stressing these sea mammals. Likely, the younger seals will plop into the security of the sea at your approach, popping up in your wake to check out the curious creatures called kayakers.

Moving along the high sandstone cliffs of Galiano keep an eye peeled for eagles surveying their fishing turf or turf-grazing deer on the bluffs above. At the 5½ km mark you’ll encounter a large cliff-side cormorant rookery.

At kilometre nine, the beach at the north end of Retreat Cove makes an ideal spot to stop for lunch and stretch cramped leg muscles before darting across the open waters of Trincomali Channel. Since you will, in all likelihood, be exposed to broadside wave and wind action some members of your group may feel uncomfortable during the half hour crossing to Wallace Island. To provide support and increase the visibility of your group remain clumped together while crossing the two kilometres to Panther Point where, incidentally, the HMS Panther ran aground in 1874. No need to repeat the performance.

A Provincial Marine Park, Wallace Island offers excellent camping, hiking and the best drinking water you’ll encounter in the area. The main camping area at Conover Cove is the site of a once thriving vacation resort operated by David Conover from 1946 to 1966. Numerous historic buildings, an orchard and bountiful herb gardens have been preserved by BC Parks. You may want to plan a recipe that calls for fresh mint, chives or oregano during your stay on the island. A hand pump 400 metres north of the dock supplies deliciously cool water, perfect for replenishing supplies or a refreshing scrub down. You’ll find a photogenic old truck and tractor in the same meadow. The popularity of Conover Cove among the yachting set and the difficulty of landing or launching a kayak at low tide makes this a less than ideal place for over-nighting. Cabin Bay and Chivers Point, 3.3 km further along, both offer more seclusion though their growing popularity with kayakers means you’ll likely still be sharing with others, particularly on weekends. The campfire ban is strictly enforced on Wallace Island by parks staff patrolling in motorized zodiacs. Even after dark Big Sister will be watching from her beach front home on Galiano. Violators will be fined.

Continuing northward, you’ll want to explore the Secretary Islands, Mowgli and Norway Islands, Reid Island and the Rose Islets before zipping back across Trincomali Channel towards the Indian reserve at Shingle Point. Follow the Valdes Island shore for another 1.7 km to Blackberry Point for ideally-situated camping. As yet unembraced by the BC Parks system, beach fires are permitted here but you will find no toilets or potable water. Be sure to secure kayaks well and pitch your tents in the bush above the beach as it all but disappears during the highest tides of the year. Competition for suitable sites is fierce so arrive early.

The coast north of Blackberry Point is, reminiscent of Galiano Island, comprised largely of eroded sandstone galleries of every imaginable abstraction. At some point you may want to pay a visit to the De Courcy Group of Islands.

De Courcy Island was once the home of a secretive cult known as the Aquarian Foundation. After bilking and boinking his way to infamy, the charismatic leader, Brother XII, vanished in 1933 amidst charges of fraud and rumours of hidden treasure. Besides the allure of buried gold, all that remains of the lascivious cult is Brother XII Trail, a short footpath along the sandstone bluffs of Pirates Cove Provincial Marine Park.

Today the park offers camping, drinking water, toilets, the yachting crowd and mosquitoes in abundance. If possible camp along the western shore well away from the main campsite to avoid the latter two. Better yet, establish Blackberry Point as a base camp and investigate this area as an excursion.

All good things must end and exploring Trincomali Channel is no exception. To save time you may want to make a beeline following the coast of Valdes and Galiano directly back to Montague Harbour. Plan your crossing of the gap between the two islands to coincide with slack tide. Savvy paddlers will choose the lull after high water in order to catch the ebbing current homeward. A word of Warning: DO NOT attempt to navigate any of the major narrows, Porlier Pass, Gabriola Passage or Active Pass at any time except slack tide and you had better be equipped with accurate tide information. Misjudgment could cost dearly. It is best to avoid these areas altogether as heavy commercial marine traffic compounds the problems of racing currents, rapids, standing waves, back eddies and whirlpools.

San Juan Islands - Lopez Island <<->> Desolation Sound

Hot Springs Cove

Access: See Getting to Tofino

Level: Difficult

Distance: 114 km

Time: 2-3 days

Tide Table: Tofino

Red Tide Alert: Area 24

Warning: Open Ocean

Marine Chart: 3673 & 3674

This extremely popular route begins much the same as the previous Meares Island circumnavigation. From Maurus Channel however, veer west into Calmus Passage under the stern gaze of the Catface Range. After some 4½ km of protected paddling you’ll break into the relatively open waters between Flores and Vargas Island. Granted, a wide array of small islands, rocks and reefs break up the breakers somewhat as they roll in off the Pacific but, on a stormy day, that protection is spurious at best. The most direct route across the gap is still 5½ km ending at Gibson Marine Park on the southeastern tip of Flores Island. Hugging the coast of Vancouver Island, though longer, provides access to many beaches for camping, exploring or just stretching the cramps out of legs and shoulders.

Though very likely crowded, Whitesand Cove at Gibson Marine Park is well worth a visit. The park, 17 km from Tofino, is comprised of two sandy crescents that make great camping and a somewhat coolish hot springs located at the southern end of Matilda Inlet and accessible by trail from Whitesand Cove. The clear, odourless spring water gurgles out at 25°C into a cement pool measuring 6 x 2.4 metres and 1.2 metres deep.

In addition, the Ahousaht Wild Side Heritage Trail cuts across Whitesand Cove, stretching from the community of Marktosis to Cow Bay 11 km away and beyond, for the truly energetic, to the peak of Mount Flores.

The interpretive trail was established by Ahousaht women to build pride and develop employment locally. Guides are available to share native history and culture with the many visitors who pass through each year. Guided tours can be prearranged by calling 1-888-670-9586. Ancient forests, middens, culturally modified trees and a dozen secluded beaches are just some of the highlights of the tour.

The paddling route along the lee side of Flores Island is generally protected and as such is the waterway of choice for local fishermen, forest workers, tour boats and water taxis. Being protected from the breakers of the open Pacific, the foreshore of Millar Channel [16 km] and Shelter Inlet [8 km] are steep and fjord-like with suitable places to pitch a tent less common than on the weather ravaged windward side of Flores Island.

As the name suggests Obstruction Island creates a venturi effect, magnifying tidal currents throughout the 2.4 km length of Hayden Passage. Plan to reach the narrow waterway at slack or, better yet, on an ebbing tide and let the man in the moon do the driving.

After rounding the north west corner of Flores Island at Starling Point expect wind and wave to pick up. Depending on the conditions, scoot across Sydney Inlet to enjoy the refuge provided by Openit Peninsula. Though camping is prohibited anywhere in the park, pull out at the tiny sandy cove just 2½ km further on, just prior to Sharp Point at the very tip of Maquinna Provincial Park. Those dying for a soak will be heartened to know that Ramsay Hot Spring, as the geothermal vent is called, is just a few steps away. Otherwise continue paddling for another couple kilometres into Hot Springs Cove , landing at the busy government wharf. Camping can be found, for a fee, on adjacent private property. Drinking water, available from a hand pump just above the dock, is foul-tasting though potable in a pinch. Avoid it altogether by topping up well-before reaching the cove.

From the wharf the hot spring is a pleasant 1½ km jog along a split cedar boardwalk. Many mariners have replaced boards with name plates from their ships making for interesting reading along the way. The hot spring is one of the province’s finest, clear, slightly sulphurous, gurgling out of a crack in the rocks at 51° C, far too hot for immediate use. Thankfully the water tumbles over a short cliff, cascading down through a succession of soaking pools, each one slightly cooler than the one above it. Soaking in the bottom pool is a delight. Hot water pours in from above while chilling saltwater slops in from the ever-active sea. The whole scene occurs in a cleft in the rocks facing the setting sun and, if that were not enough, the whole cleft is usually lit by candlelight as the sky darkens to a deep purple. Clothing is optional but footwear is not. The rocks are jagged enough but usually some dope has just dropped a wine glass, scattering glass about in the pools. Do watch where you sit. If you must drink, use plastic.

When you’ve had enough soaks to make your fingers look like those movie theatre hot dogs then it may be time to make a decision on how to return from whence you came. Only advanced kayakers should consider taking the open ocean route around Flores and Vargas Islands. The weather along the West Coast can change literally minute by minute. Gentle Pacific rollers can become furious breakers whipped to a frenzy by gale-force winds in an instant. Fog can quickly roll in, obscuring all landmarks and the myriad of treacherous reefs and rocks that line the route. On the other hand, if your paddling skills are up to it the rewards of this route are many. Uncountable sandy beaches, a rugged, wind-torn landscape, seclusion and a sense of being on the very edge of the world can all be expected. The choice is yours but err on the side of caution.

Landing in the surf can be especially problematic. In many cases there may be rocks off either end of a beach that can serve as a breakwater. Scoot in behind them to make your landing. Alternatively, surf the waves in as hard and as fast as you can manage then scramble out and up the beach before the next wave fills your cockpit with sand and seaweed. Be sure to decide upon your plan of action well before reaching the line of breakers. Once committed there is no way out. Never allow your kayak to go broadside to the breakers or indeed you will flip.

The many clusters of offshore rocks and small islets are ideal for harvesting mussels, keeping in mind the usual caveats about red tide. Bottom feeders can be taken just about anywhere but for a challenge try trolling for salmon through the rocky shoals. The La Croix Group, well off the tip of Vargas Island, is a particularly good place to hook dinner.

Dependable freshwater can be found at Cow Bay on the south west coast of Flores Island. On a fine day enjoy poking around the many islets clustered around Bartlett Island in the gap between Flores and Vargas. The collection of fine camping beaches at the northwest corner of Vargas Island are a popular destination for guided kayaking tour groups and can be crowded during the summer.

Orcas prowl the coast with residents feasting on fish and transients filling up on fellow sea mammals like seals and sea lions. During spring and fall keep an eye open for migrating Gray whales while paddling. At any time while relaxing on the beach, resident Grays may pop into your particular cove to sluice up a snack from the crustacean-rich foreshore. Ahous Bay on Vargas Island in particular is popular with these baleen whales. Around the corner at Medallion Beach expect to find a proliferation of sand dollars from which the beach was named. On the final approach to Tofino stay together and stay alert for boat and sea plane traffic. You may find the sights and sounds of civilization, even Tofino’s, surprisingly jarring after an extended wilderness excursion.

Click for a wider perspective on Clayoquot Sound.

Meares Island Circumnavigation <<->> Sunshine Coast Trail Introduction & Access

Clayoquot Sound

Clayoquot Sound was the site of an intense battle in the early 1990s between multinational logging interests and a coalition of environmental and Native Indian groups. Hundreds were arrested for blockading logging roads but ultimately protesters won a number of concessions over big business. Not the least of these was, belatedly, a five year moratorium on all logging in the area with perpetual protection for many major blocks of rain forest.

Kayaking out of Tofino, on the edge of Clayoquot Sound, is logistically very simple. The Tofino Sea Kayaking Company, where you pick up your kayak is located next to the Canadian Coast Guard just a few steps away from the bus depot. After you arrive walk down towards the main dock turning right on Main Street. You cannot miss the funky kayak shop and espresso bar.

Getting to Tofino by bus, while pretty simple from Vancouver, is a full day trip. Nonetheless, if you arrive in the mid-afternoon, June to September, there’s still plenty of time to get organized, equipped and paddle 4 km over to a gorgeous sandy beach on Vargas Island. Since the beach, which lies south of Rassier Point, is somewhat exposed to the open Pacific you can expect to be kayaking in fairly heavy rollers with surf breaking on the beach making landing troublesome at the very least. There’s only one thing to do. Ride the surf in while paddling like mad and then, when the surf recedes leaving you high and dry on the beach, quickly jump out and pull your craft further up the beach before the next breaker rolls in. The southern end of the beach belongs to the Yarkis Indian reserve. Respect this traditional land and refrain from camping here.

If you decide to stay in a hotel with a real bed and a shower check out Maquinna Lodge, virtually across the street from the Tofino Sea Kayaking Company. It’s nothing special but the rooms are clean and quiet and it’s budget-priced. As always reservations are recommended.

From your campsite on the edge of Clayoquot Sound you have choices, many choices. This book will outline two popular routes but the sound is a nearly limitless web of open Pacific and protected inland waterways, islands big and small with channels and inlets and arms and bays reaching in every direction. You could easily spend weeks exploring this part of the coast and still never see it all. A word of warning however. Do not venture beyond land into the open Pacific unless you are a confident kayaker with many nautical kilometres and years of paddling behind you.

Hotham Sound Loop <<->> Meares Island Circumnavigation

Meares Island Circumnavigation

Access: See Getting to Tofino

Level: Challenging

Distance: 55 km

Time: 2-4 days

Warning: Strong Currents

Tide Table: Tofino

Red Tide Administrative Unit: Area 24

Marine Chart: 3673

Here’s where knowing and understanding your tide chart can be a big bonus. For some reason the tide floods in a huge clockwise circle almost completely around Meares Island. The current ebbs in the other direction. Consulting your tide table, you can decide which direction to tackle the island in, allowing the current to push or pull you around the island. Only for the 10 km stretch along Browning Passage will you likely be fighting the tide. The difference in effort required is quite astounding. We found that tidal actions on the far side of Meares tended to lag about an hour behind times predicted for Tofino in the tide chart.

Clayoquot Sound South

Assuming you spent the night on the beach at Rassier Point and that you can follow a tidal flow in a clockwise direction, head north into Maurus Channel after launching your craft in the surf. Otherwise follow these instructions in reverse. With a current and the prevailing tailwind you’ll make time quickly. At Robert Point 5 km away and again just beyond it are two rough, somewhat inadequate campsites. Continuing on to Sarnac Island and beyond keep in mind that sources of good drinking water can be hard to come by all over the rocky coast of British Columbia. The north side of Meares Island is no exception so stay close to the cliffs and watch for a clean little stream about 3 km past Sarnac Island.

Fourteen kilometres after you started you’ll begin to feel the pull of Matlset Narrows. Currents here reach up to 4 knots or 7½ km/h so sit back and enjoy the ride. If you didn’t read your tide chart correctly or threw caution to the wind and decided to buck the tide then here you’ll regret it. For the next three kilometres you’ll be working hard just to maintain. A number of beaches on the north side are good for camping though some are a bit steep. Camping at the little tombolo on the south side is marginal at best. If you continue on into Warn Bay you’ll find an excellent site with a good source of water at an unnamed cove just beyond the beaches. Squatters have anchored a float cabin here offshore but will enjoy a friendly hello from their unexpected neighbours. As a bonus this site is well-endowed with large patches of sea asparagus for those craving greens in their diet. For obvious reasons be sure to set your tents well above the most recent high water mark which can be discerned as a thin line of green seaweed and flotsam and jetsam. Beaches are narrow throughout the area but there should be enough space for a tent or two.

On the western side of Warn Bay you may enjoy watching the operation of a salmon farm in full swing. Rearing, feeding, catching and processing these fish is a full time, all-consuming occupation but in the evening hours the workers may find chatting with curious paddlers a pleasant distraction. Who knows, they may be willing to sell you a fish for supper. Try barbequing it the Indian way for a very tasty treat. Next morning get up with the tides again and catch another subsidized ride, this time heading south along Fortune Channel. As you round Plover Point into Mosquito Harbour keep an eye out for feeding seals. One of the inquisitive sea mammals popped up just 3 metres from my boat for a lengthy peek, so close in fact that his heavy breathing was clearly audible. Moments later, as we sat enjoying our lunch on the largest of the Wood Islets a small pod of Pacific white-sided dolphins cruised by, headed in the direction from which we had just come.

Mosquito Harbour makes a pleasant exploratory side trip and you’ll find passable camping at the head of the harbour. Halfway along the deep inlet on the west bank note the pilings and other vestiges of Sutton Cedar Mill, site of a onetime “gypo” lumbering operation. Though few of the forests of Meares Island ever felt the bite of the loggers axe, those hereabouts certainly did. One giant western red cedar, 5 metres in diameter, at the mouth of Sutton Mill Creek was bypassed by fallers of the day and still stands towering 49 metres above the tidal flats. Continuing south past the Kirshaw Islets we were lucky to encounter a yearling black bear foraging on the beach. As he shared our curiosity we were able to move in close and watch him watching us for several minutes before something deep in his young heart informed him that he was faced with creatures perhaps best avoided and he retreated slowly into the gloom of the rain forest understory.

Following that moment of truth we encountered an even stranger phenomenon. Suddenly, maybe half a kilometre in front of us a large ominous-looking standing wave appeared, lasted 10 minutes, then vanished without a trace. Some inexplicable tidal phenomenon? The back of a whale? A hydra-headed sea monster or sun-heated delusion? We’ll probably never know.

At Heelboom Bay, otherwise known as C’is-a-qis, you’ll find limited if acceptable camping, plenty of water and a dirty, mouse-infested cabin built by The Friends of Clayoquot, an environmental conglomerate designed to eliminate logging. From here, at one time a concerted campaign was mounted to save Meares Island from the loggers’ chain saws. Behind the cabin a rough trail leads 4 hours across island to the Great Cedar Loop, a grove of giant cedars, once threatened, now protected. If intent on viewing these ancient conifers paddling over to Lemmens Inlet is a perhaps a better choice since you’ll be passing it by anyway before the day is out. First however, the confused waters at the southeast corner of Meares Island will have to be overcome. Strong currents through Dawley Passage will either treat or tease you but here the rip is mercifully short. As you round Auseth Point into Browning Passage the tide abruptly changes direction. With superior planning and a little help from the moon you may be able to ride the last 10 km on a receding tide.

At Duckling Island make for Meares Creek for a glimpse of a towering Sitka spruce. Though the top was sheered off sometime over the ages by wind or snow this spruce still tips the scales at a colossal 48.8 metres tall with a girth of 4.4 metres. Sitka spruce is known to be particularly resistant to salt spay and tends to predominate at the foreshore of BC’s wild west coast. For more of the same, paddle over to the other end of the tidal flats to pick up the 2.6 km Great Cedar Loop, a popular ecotourism destination. Alternatively look for a small jetty around the corner adjacent to Morpheus Island. Innumerable venerable old western red cedars and sitka spruce have agglomerated on this lowland peninsula including the world’s fourth tallest western red cedar: 42.7 metres tall and 18.3 metres around at the base. Lemmens Inlet cuts deep into the heart of Meares Island, revealing an environment rich in mud flats and eel grass, the cradle of life for so many species from lowly molluscs and crustaceans to apex species like dolphins and bald eagles and black bears. Herring seek the eel grass for spawning while young salmon smolts use it as a hideout in which to mature. In addition, fishermen will find bottom feeders such as rock cod or flounder in abundance. Lemmens Inlet is also an important stopover on the flyways of many migratory birds and should be particularly animated in spring and fall.

Adventure Cove is site of Fort Defiance, built in 1791 by American entrepreneur Robert Gray. Though the centuries have erased the trading post completely, the site is now classified as a BC Heritage Site. When you head back to Tofino swing by Beck Island for a good look at a low level eagle’s eyrie. Boat and seaplane traffic can be heavy in Tofino Harbour so stay together and be aware of activity around you. In the event of fog stay close to channel markers, something other navigators will be intent on avoiding.

Click for a wider perspective on Clayoquot Sound.

Clayoquot Sound <<->> Hot Springs Cove

Hotham Sound Loop

Level: Challenging

Distance: 54 km

Time: 2 – 3 days

Warning: Winds, Open Water

Tide Table: Blind Bay

Marine Chart: Jervis Inlet 3514

Access: Via Egmont

No matter how you slice it crossing several kilometres of open water will be necessary in order to reach Hotham Sound. The shortest gap is two kilometres across the ferry lanes from Captain Island to Foley Head. A further sprint of 1.3 km across the ferry lanes through the turbulence at the head of Agamemnon Channel is necessitated by this approach however. Make for Egmont Point after launching your graceful craft instead. Once past the point steer a course for Foley Head 3.4 km away. On this bearing only the currents of Jervis Inlet come into play and marine traffic is far less up-and-down the channel. As a bonus, the seal haul out at the Miller Islets provides a distraction about a quarter of the way across. Powerful winds do emanate from Jervis Inlet so an early morning start is recommended.

A mid-day view of mist-shrouded Hotham Sound taken from near Captain Island with steep-sided Foley Head darkly dominating the right foreground. The delicate tendrils of Freil Falls, just above the headland, are all but obliterated by the wet coast weather.

At Foley Head zig right for a side excursion to explore nearby Sydney Island and Goliath Bay or zag left and follow the coastline for another 4 kilometres before rounding into the typically calm waters of Hotham Sound proper. Either way you’re bound to encounter a number of active aquaculture operations tucked into the nooks and crannies of the coast hereabouts.

Plan to stop at Granville Bay for lunch, a snack or a much-needed stretch at the very least. Paddlers will want to stumble out of their boats again for pictures at the rocky beach in front of 444 m Freil Falls, a spectacular hanging valley visible even from the ferry as it shuttles its way between Earl’s Cove and Saltery Bay. The small, oyster-encrusted beach just prior to the falls is an ideal place to pitch up to five tents. A seasonal brook pours fresh water over the rocks at the south end of the beach.

Less than a kilometre further on, Harmony Islands Provincial Marine Park is undeveloped, lacking both water and decent access but the south end could do in a pinch. Being only 12 km from Egmont you may wish to push on however, secure in the knowledge that beaches suited to camping abound in Hotham Sound. The small prominence before Syren Pt, for instance, hides a landing, a dependable source of ice cold water and even a viewpoint from which to toast the sun god’s daily demise.

Be sure to include an oyster-shucking knife in your camping kit whenever advisories from the Red Tide Hotline are favourable. Pry open the lid, add a squeeze of lemon and a dash of Worcestershire sauce then tip it back. Yum! There’s nothing quite like oysters on the half shell fresh from the source. Return the shells to the water so the microscopic oyster spawn they harbour can mature and so bears with a gourmet flair will not be attracted to your site.

Continue probing the foreshore to the twin bays, Lena and Baker, at the head of the sound before doubling back along the opposite shore to St. Vincent Bay.

A well-developed campsite, established by kayaking outfitters, will be found 3 km from Baker Bay. Several more sites will be found across the sound from the Harmony Islands.

Culloden Point, 18 km from Baker Bay, is the jumping off point for another open water crossing. Currents are not significant here but your group will be crossing the ferry lane. As always cluster together to enhance your visibility as you make the three kilometre sprint to Nelson Island. Numerous spots to pitch a tent will present themselves along the final 10 km of the trip but the best beach by far will be found just before Captain Island. If still uncomfortable with turbulent water choose an early morning or late afternoon slack tide to scoot across the ferry lane of Agamemnon Channel on the final leg of your return to Egmont. Whenever forced to paddle against an outflowing tide in Skookumchuck Narrows hug the shoreline to pick up a boost from the numerous backeddies here.

Nelson Island Circumnavigation <<->> Clayoquot Sound

Nelson Island Circumnavigation

Level: Challenging

Distance: 60 km

Time: 2 – 3 days

Warning: Winds & Currents

Tide Table: Blind Bay

Marine Chart: Jervis Inlet 3514

Access: Via Egmont

Squeeze three days of freedom from urban reality and you have enough time to explore Nelson Island at a leisurely pace. Those arriving on the last bus of the day can find shelter and sustenance at the Backeddy Pub in Egmont. Be forewarned however that the campsite is a rowdy, noisy fisherman’s camp; little more than a parking lot. There will be no guarantee of a good night’s sleep in the great outdoors but an early start the next morning is possible. Depending on the drunken cacophony the night before make as much noise is possible when you get up. Keep in mind however that should you get into trouble out on the water these are the guys who will most likely be in a position to help.

The ope waters of Hotham Sound at dusk.

Set off early on a calm, sunny day with a receding tide and life couldn’t get better. Let the riffles pull you around the corner to the west where you can anticipate turbulence at the best times. In the waters off Captain Island three separate tidal streams converge with equally fuddled air flows often meeting above the water. Go with the flow and it will suck you 16 km through Agamemnon Channel, the narrow but deep passage between Nelson Island and the Sechelt Peninsula. Did you remember to check the Marine weather forecast before setting out? The currents of Agamemnon Channel will deposit you into the open waters of Malaspina Strait where, on a gusty day, white caps will be waiting to greet you. Whatever the conditions you have little choice but to turn right at Fearney Point and make for Quarry Bay. If tides are incoming, set off around Nelson Island in a counter-clockwise direction instead of bucking the currents in Agamemnon Channel.

Quarry Bay was once the source of the finest masonry granite on the coast. Stone from the abandoned quarry found its way into many of the neoclassical buildings of Vancouver and Victoria. A short trail leads from the bay to Little Quarry Lake, ideal for a dip or drink on a hot summer day.

Let the prevailing southeasterlies push you 6 km further on to Cape Cockburn for prime coastal camping. The sunsets overlooking Texeda Island more than compensate for the sometimes blustery location. Once around the cape take a moment to explore narrow Cockburn Bay before proceeding on to Hidden Basin. From the head of the lagoon a hiking trail cuts across the narrow isthmus to Blind Bay. During inclement weather portaging across may be preferable to paddling around. The reefs and islets of Blind Bay are sure to offer refuge during even the worst of weather. Camping can be found next to Hardy Island on tiny Musket Island.

An escape hatch, in the form of Telescope Passage, provides a hasty exit from Blind Bay on an incoming tide. On your explorations of the north coast of Nelson Island a wide indentation, Vanguard Bay, has been provided to poke around in. Captain Island will be the last stop before paddling once again across the confused waters at the convergence of Sechelt Inlet, Jervis Inlet and Agamemnon Channel. Camping will be found on Nelson Island just across from the western tip of Captain Island. At the opposite end of the Captain Island a short forest trail leads from the shore to a stand of ancient cedars. Take the opportunity to stretch out here as the next stop is Egmont.

Jervis Inlet <<->> Hotham Sound Loop

Jervis Inlet

Level: Difficult

Distance: 77 km o/w

Time: 7 day min

Warning: High Winds

Tide Table: Blind Bay

Marine Chart: Jervis Inlet 3514

Access: Via Egmont

Seasoned kayakers may want to paddle the length of Jervis Inlet in order to reach Princess Louisa Inlet, taking the Malibu Princess or a water taxi out again when time constraints prevent paddling both ways. High winds along Jervis Inlet are common while places to pull kayaks out of the water are not. Unless setting out during slack water expect strong but not perilous currents from the get go at Egmont. Aim for the Sutton Islets in the centre of the channel, taking a new bearing on Egmont Point after passing the funky island community. Seals have established their own community on the Miller Islets, 4 km from Egmont. If seas are calm skirt the islands to exchange gawks with the basking brutes. Stay well offshore though to avoid needlessly stressing them.

From the Miller Islets to Vancouver Bay 17 km further on hug the eastern shore of the Inlet. If you happen to see a spot to land and stretch take it, the next one could be hours away. The mouths of rivers and creeks in particular may offer a sliver of gravel on which to pause depending on the tides. The first suitable camping area you are likely to encounter along Prince of Wales Reach will be found at the muddy mouth of the Vancouver River. Though once an important settlement of the Sechelt Indian band, there are at present no full-time residents though land hereabouts is still designated as reserve land. A camp has been set up in the bay however for inculcating native values among band youths. Visitors from outside are discouraged.

A hiking trail follows the Vancouver River inland providing a good opportunity to stretch the cockpit cramps out of leg and back muscles. Continue hugging the shore of Jervis Inlet as you resume paddling inland. A windless, early morning start on incoming tide would be ideal as you can expect to cover 34 km before reaching Deserted Bay where the next best camping will be found. In a pinch, the Indian reserve at the mouth of the Brittain River should yield a suitable site for camping. Brittain River, formerly a permanent settlement famed for crafting dugout canoes, is 15 km from Vancouver Bay on the opposite side of Princess Royal Reach.

An uncharacteristic lowland stretching from Stakawus Creek to Deserted Bay and beyond suddenly provides numerous opportunities for pitching a tent. Once again the land belongs to the Sechelt Band though no-trace camping is permitted. Deserted Bay, a once thriving community of Tsonai Coast Salish, had been abandoned by the time it got its name.

From Deserted Bay the steep-sided fjord resumes as Queens Reach. Malibu Rapids is a mere 11 km further on. Just 2 km beyond Malibu a pictograph can be seen at cliff side. Another important Coast Salish settlement, that of the Hunaechin, was once situated at the head of Jervis Inlet, 11 km further on in a northwesterly direction.

When Captain Vancouver reached the head of the fjord he was overcome with despondency, tersely noting in the ship’s log, “All our hopes vanished.” The good captain was of course pursuing that elusive chimera, known as the Northwest Passage. Princess Louisa Inlet evaded him as well. Likely he mistook the Malibu Rapids for the mouth of a river.

Princess Louisa Inlet <<->> Nelson Island Circumnavigation

Princess Louisa Inlet

Level: Moderate

Distance: 14 km r/t

Time: 1 day

Warning: Rapids

Marine Chart: Jervis Inlet 3514

Access: Via Egmont

Tide Table: Egmont

Malibu Camp, a nondenominational christian youth centre situated at the mouth of Princess Louisa Inlet, has good news for kayakers. Until recently a visit to this magical little waterway required a boat, an airplane or, for kayakers, a week or more to paddle the full length of Jervis Inlet. Every six days throughout the summer the 38 metre Malibu Princess makes a freight run to Malibu camp and kayakers can piggyback to the head of the inlet, turning a momentous undertaking into a simple day trip. Alternately, more intrepid paddlers can reach deep into the Inlet on the Malibu Princess and paddle back one way. Being on a six-day cycle means the ship leaves on a different day each week. Call the M.V. Malibu Princess to get their schedule of departures or to book passage. Though not explicitly noted in company literature, the captain was adamant about ensuring that we were well-fed on the morning red-eye as well as the return voyage at supper time.

Upon arrival at Malibu Camp the ship will dock at one of two wharves depending on the tides. If water is high and the captain decides to use the inner dock then kayakers can just paddle away once their craft is unloaded. The more likely scenario however is that the Malibu Princess will dock on the outside, presenting kayakers with four choices: shoot the rapids on a flood tide, wait for slack water to navigate Malibu Narrows, portage through the camp and around the whitewater or hitch a ride aboard the smaller vessels which are used to ferry freight around the rapids. In all likelihood kayakers will have to wait until all of the freight is unloaded but this service is included in the price of passage.

If planning to return to Egmont aboard the Malibu Princess on the same day keep an eye on the clock. Be sure to keep the captain apprised of your intentions and find out directly from him exactly what time the ship will be returning in the late afternoon. The Malibu Princess actually makes two return trips along Jervis Inlet on the same day. The first one is the freight run at 6 AM which returns to Egmont with a load of 300 happy campers. On the next run the ship will arrive at Malibu Camp stuffed to the gunwales with a fresh batch of Christians teens. If you can return to the camp early enough the arrival ceremony is a spectacle certainly worth watching. On the final run back to Egmont the ship will be virtually empty.

Egmont Marina Resort will deliver rental kayaks to the Malibu Princess in the morning, picking them up again at the end of the day. Malibu was originally built for the glitterati of the 1940s. Since wildlife and the wild life are incongruous, the luxury resort failed to attract enough of the spoiled Hollywood crowd to make a profit. Eventually it was sold to the Young Life Foundation which provides christian retreats for hundreds of teens each summer.

From the first dip of the paddle it will become apparent that Princess Louisa Inlet is nothing less than a natural wonder. Surprisingly calm conditions prevail in the narrow waterway which is just 7 km long, sandwiched between towering granite walls laced with countless waterfalls on either side. During spring runoff until late June more than 60 waterfalls can be seen dropping 2000 metres or more into the sea. At the head of the Inlet, Loquilts Creek crashes over 37 metre Chatterbox Falls filling the air with thunder and a fine cooling mist. Rustic campsites can be found adjacent to the falls or about halfway along the inlet tucked in behind Macdonald Island.

Though half a day is plenty of time to paddle the length of Princess Louisa Inlet and back it is certainly not enough time to fully appreciate its splendour.

The park at the head of the inlet owes its existence to the generosity of “Mac” Macdonald who purchased the land in 1927. Having struck the motherlode the previous year while prospecting in Nevada, James Macdonald promptly retired, wintering over in Mexico while devoting his summers to Chatterbox Falls. Never the recluse, “Mac” considered himself to be just a custodian of the property which rightfully belonged to the wider society of mariners who frequent the area. As early as 1953 “Mac” transferred title of the property to a perpetual trust which in turn discharged its duty by overseeing the formation of a Provincial Marine Park. “Mac” continued to host all manner of visitor to the park until 1972, when, at the age of 83, he retired for good. He died six years later.

Refer to the map of Malibu Rapids to see the best approach when returning on a flooding tide.

The venturi effect of the narrows accelerates the water up to 19 km/h. As it leaves the chute the current bounces off the south wall, cutting across to the other side of the Inlet before straightening out. Kayakers should approach along the southern wall carefully watching the line of foam to discern current patterns. Head into the current at an oblique angle as it cuts across the inlet. Expect your kayak to be jolted hard when it reaches the main stream. Paddle like mad at this point steering with but across the stream towards the cliffs along the opposite bank. Your objective is to catch the back eddies which will sweep you towards the dock. If you miss the back eddies you will be swept back into the inlet from which you must try again. Bucking the tides head on is an exercise in futility.

Unless of course you want to shoot the chute on the ebbing tide hug the cliffs along the north bank to make an end run around the main part of the current. Upon reaching the dock hang on, especially when clambering out, to avoid losing your kayak to the current. Though Malibu rapids is nowhere near as menacing as those at Skookumchuck, better than average kayak competence and the confidence which comes with it are needed to run them. Expect a drop of a third of a metre with the turbulence of a Class III river. Veer to the right of Malibu Islet if possible to reach the outside wharf.

Skookumchuck Introduction <<->> Jervis Inlet

Skookumchuck Introduction

Access: Take the bus as far as the turn off to Egmont [See Getting to the Sunshine Coast] where you will meet your prearranged pick up for the 8 km ride into Egmont itself. The folks at Egmont Marina Resort will arrange for a pick up as part of multi-day kayak rentals. This is something to add to the negotiations when calling to make your kayak reservations.

The tiny rural backwater of Egmont is an ideally situated jumping off point for a variety of prime kayaking areas including Nelson and Hardy Islands, Hotham Sound, Jervis Inlet in its entirety as well as the jewel at the end, Princess Louisa Inlet. All of Sechelt Inlet is likewise accessible from Egmont though a formidable barrier must first be circumvented. Since the raging rapids of Skookumchuck Narrows stand in the way it is the recommendation of this book that kayakers access Sechelt Inlet from its lower end only. That route is described here.

Skookumchuck Narrows is a must-see phenomenon however and is best viewed from the safety of solid ground. An easy 4 km hike provides access to viewpoints overlooking the Narrows. The trailhead can be reached from Egmont by walking back towards Highway 101 for 20 minutes or so. Time your visit to coincide with a particularly extreme tidal mood swing to see the rapids in all their fury. The worst time to see this natural wonder is of course when the tide is slack. On a typical three-metre tide as much as 9 trillion litres of seawater is flushed through the narrows at speeds up to 26 km/h, spawning cascades as high as 5 metres; giant, basketball court-sized whirlpools; standing waves as big as a bus and a multitude of mixed metaphors.

Better than average paddling skills are required before tackling the standing waves of Skookumchuck Narrows.

Many of the place names hereabouts commemorate Commodore Nelson’s 1797 victory over the Spanish during the Battle of St. Vincent. Nelson’s superior officer was Sir John Jervis while Captain Island takes its name from the H. M. S. Captain, Nelson’s flagship. Another flagship from Nelson’s victory at the Nile has been reincarnated as Vanguard Bay while Nelson’s man-of-war, the H. M. S. Agamemnon has morphed into the narrow channel separating Nelson’s very own island from the mainland. The names date from the 1860s when Captain Richards undertook a detailed survey of the coast from the H. M. Plumper. He borrowed names for Hotham Sound, Hardy Island, Cape Cockburn and Fearney Point from captains of other ships which took part in Lord Nelson’s celebrated victories. The regal reaches of Jervis Inlet derive their names from fur trading vessels dedicated to royalty which plied the coast hereabouts in the late 1780s.

Sechelt Inlet <<->> Princess Louisa Inlet