Level: Difficult

Distance: 12 km r/t

Time: 7 h r/t

Elevation Change: 1036 m

Map: Brandywine 92J/3

Season: July to Oct

Access: See Getting to Whistler. Brew Lake must be accessed via the CNR [Formerly BC Railway] right-of-way. Take the bus as far as Brandywine Falls Provincial Park.

Before beginning your hike in earnest be sure to take a moment to check out Brandywine Falls. Brandywine Creek tumbles 66 metres down into a gorge of its own creation, filling the air with a fine cloud of mist. Return to the railway tracks and follow them west towards the Sea to Sky Highway. The rail bed turns abruptly south on the other side of Highway 99, continuing in a straight line for 1.8 km before making another sharp westward turn. Continue along the tracks until just 200 metres before this latter turn where you will find the well-marked trail to Brew Lake and beyond. At all times when following the railway right-of-way remain alert to the approach of freight and passenger trains as well as the fire-suppression crews which follow them.

The elevation gain is unrelenting, rising first over treed slopes then steeper, switching back and forth over rocky terrain. Pause from time to time to not only catch your breath but take in the views across the valley towards Garibaldi Provincial Park. By the time you have dropped down through alpine meadows to the shores of Brew Lake you will have climbed 1036 metres over six kilometres. Small rainbow trout are abundant in Brew Lake. The ambitious could set up a base camp at the lakeside from which to explore the open alpine ridges thereabouts. The route to Brew Mountain continues for 1.6 additional kilometres with a further elevation gain of 280 metres.

Cal-Cheak Trail <<->> Wedgemount Lake

Level: Easy

Distance: 4 km o/w

Time: 1½ hr o/w

Elevation Change: 10 m

Map: Brandywine 92J/3

Season: May to October

Access: See Getting to Whistler

The best way to access this trail would have been BC Rail. The railroad right-of-way parallels historic Pemberton Trail for the most part, crossing it at a couple points. There is even a whistle stop called McGuire near the north end of the trail but, alas, the train, now owned by CN Rail, won’t stop there no matter how hard you whistle. The next best alternative is the dependable Whistler-bound bus. Since the turn off to Cal-Cheak Forest Recreation Area may be difficult to find for some drivers, jump out, figuratively-speaking of course, at Brandywine Provincial Park instead. From the parking lot walk over to Brandywine Falls before beginning the hike in earnest. The Falls is best viewed in the morning when fingers of sunlight stream in to light up the mist and canyon walls below the 66-metre falls.

The Pemberton Trail was originally the only transportation route from Squamish through to Pemberton providing a vital link between the aboriginal peoples of the coast and those of the interior. Later, pioneers and prospectors trod the forest footpath in search of a better life. Little remains of the trail today though this little 4-kilometre section should be sufficient to take you back in time while leading over to Cal-Cheak Forest Recreation Area.

Brandywine Falls: Brandywine Creek meets an untimely end, dropping off a cliff into a gorge of its own making.

This section of the Pemberton Trail is known as the Brandywine/Cal-Cheak Trail and can be accessed by crossing back over the railroad tracks from the waterfall and making an immediate right. Near the beginning, the trail cuts across a ridge above tiny Swim Lake. There are some undulating sections and staircases to be negotiated but the trail is generally easy and should take just an hour and 20 minutes to complete. On the way look for outcroppings of columnar basalt and other signs of volcanic activity, leftovers from the cataclysm that created nearby Black Tusk and The Barrier. The trail flattens out for the last kilometre or so. Near the end the trail passes by the disused whistle stop of McGuire before reaching Callahan Creek.

The Ministry of Forests Recreation Site is just across the suspension bridge. This route could also be undertaken as a very easy backpacking overnighter. Rustic campgrounds and a picnic area are situated here at the confluence of the Cheakamus River and Callahan Creek. Due to high recreational use in the area drinking water should be boiled or treated with iodine. Both waterways are heavily laden with glacial till. Camping is possible too at Brandywine Provincial Park. While the water is better the price is also higher and the highway noise thunderous.

No need to walk all the way back to Brandywine Provincial Park to catch the return bus to Vancouver. Instead follow the dirt forest access road north for a kilometre to Highway 99. Cross the highway and stand in a visible location. Be sure to leave during daylight so the driver has plenty of time to safely pull over. Wave a jacket or $50 bill as the bus approaches.

Wave Length Paddeling Magazine <<->> Brew Lake

Access: See Getting to Whistler

Map: Squamish 92G/11

From the trailhead described above two additional routes lead to 335 metre-high Shannon Falls where tour bus after tour bus drops off its cargo of flash happy visitors. The first trail is just a single kilometre long and, after crossing Olesen Creek, leads to the bottom of the falls where most of the shutter bugs congregate. The second footpath also crosses the creek, just before the fork leading to the Stawamus Chief’s first and second peaks. Continue climbing steeply to the top of the cascade 1½ km away. Very few of the bus-bound ever make it this far.

The Chief & Squaw <<->> Skunk Cabbage

Access: See Getting to Whistler

Map: Squamish 92G/11

When you get off the bus at the Stawamus Chief viewpoint, look up. Chances are there will be any number of groups hanging off the imposing granite monolith above you. This is “The Grand Wall,” one of North America’s most famous free climbs. The good news is you won’t be scaling the Chief in that fashion.

Monster Monolith: The Chief dominates the view overlooking Howe Sound on a misty day. Photo taken from the trail to Diamond Head.

Stawamus Chief Provincial Park now includes 40 wilderness and 15 vehicle campsites that were created following a prolonged bout of civil disobedience. Following many years of “guerrilla camping” by a growing corps of dedicated cliff hangers the provincial government finally decided to get with the program and build a proper campsite with toilets at the site. The park has since become a veritable mecca for climbers from all over North America attracted by some of the longest, most accessible free climbing routes on the planet. There are more than 280 different ascents up The Chief. Perhaps they don’t know what you do, there’s a much easier back door.

Walk southwards, working around behind the base of the Chief in counter-clockwise direction. Once you locate the trailhead in behind the solid rock wall scramble over the boulder that blocks the entrance and begin climbing the steps in earnest. The well-used trail paralleling Olesen Creek eventually branches into four separate routes. One will take you as far as the site of a forest fire lookout perched atop Stawamus Squaw 7 km away. The others lead to the Stawamus Chief’s triple peaks.

The first two branches to the right lead to Shannon Falls and are detailed below. Almost immediately a left branch leads up to the first and second peak. The first peak is a mere 3 km away; straight up mind you but mercifully short. The second peak is 4½ km away while the third one is 5½ km from the start of the trail. The third peak can be accessed either from the top of the second peak or from the main trail following Olesen Creek. This latter route eventually branches with the left fork extending up to the third peak. The Chief’s distant mate will be found at the end of the right fork. The views from all four are spectacular, encompassing a panorama that includes the striking peaks of Garabaldi Park to the east, the Squamish Valley to the north and Howe Sound laid out at your feet to the west and south. The scene is marred only by the urban and industrial landscape of the city of Squamish and the Woodfibre pulp mill beyond. From atop the Chief consider you are standing on the world’s second largest freestanding granite outcropping, topped only by the Rock of Gibraltar.

Choose a route suited to your schedule or camp out and undertake all four.

Seymour River Hatchery <<->> Shannon Falls

Level: Challenging

Distance: 9½ km r/t

Time: 6 h r/t Elev. Change: 640 m

Map: Squamish 92G/11

Season: April to Nov

Access: See Getting to Whistler

Take the bus as far as Murrin Provincial Park, a popular picnic and swimming area at the edge of Highway 99. Trout fishing in well-stocked Browning Lake is also possible but since a highway runs by it pack your fly rod into Petgill Lake for a more tranquil experience. You’ll easily find the trailhead just beyond the park in the direction of Squamish and Whistler. From the highway the well-defined trail begins climbing straight up to a series of viewpoints overlooking Howe Sound.

As you move away from the noisy transportation corridor the trail widens into a disused logging road which continues first eastward over fairly level ground then turns southward before abruptly swerving eastward on to a narrow footpath once again. Continue climbing over the shoulder that leads up to Goat Ridge before dropping down to Petgill Lake at 610 m elevation. The route on to Goat Ridge itself is much more demanding and may be better left for another day. To complete the circuit of Petgill Lake should take 30 – 40 minutes before retracing your steps back to Murrin Park. While waiting for the return bus be sure to check out the rock climbers who like to practice their bouldering skills on the rocky bluffs adjacent to Browning Lake.

Oregon Grape <<->> Preventing Hypothermia

Level: Difficult

Distance: 26 km r/t

Time: 11 h r/t

Elevation Change: 1680 m

Map: Squamish 92G/11

Season: July to Oct

Access: See Getting to Whistler

The approach to Mount Capilano begins the same as for the previous hike. Instead of following Phyllis Creek to her headwaters veer left and cross the waterway. The route continues over an old, badly-eroded logging road above the banks of Furry Creek to just beyond Beth Creek. Watch for the trail to Mount Capilano leading off to the right of the road bed, rising through a series of switchbacks. The steep track quickly leaves logging’s legacy behind, giving way to old-growth forest before reaching the shores of Beth Lake. The deep mountain lake is an ideal place to break for lunch before pushing on to the 1686-metre crown of Mount Capilano.

From the lake work down and around, first westwards then south up towards a ridge that leads ultimately to the barren, rocky summit of Mount Capilano. Perseverance is rewarded by a stupendous panorama extending from the North Shore Mountains and the Lions to the south, the islands of Howe Sound and the craggy Tantalus Range splayed out across the western horizon. Garibaldi Park’s trademark peaks rise in the distance to the north.

Phyllis Creek <<->> Newcastle Island

Level: Moderate

Distance: 16 km r/t

Time: 7 h r/t

Elevation Change: 460 m

Map: Squamish 92G/11

Season: Year Round

Access: See Getting to Whistler

Easy hikes are few and far between in the rugged mountains of the Sea to Sky corridor. The hike up Phyllis Creek is a happy exception. Get off the bus or train at Porteau Cove Provincial Park and look for the trailhead along the highway, 300 metres due south of the park entrance. The trail, marked with orange tape, services this and the following hike. From the outset the route is decidedly up, cutting under BC Hydro transmission lines within a few minutes before rounding massive granitic outcrops towards the south. Continue southwards and away from your destination until the trail begins paralleling a raging brook.

Climb a short distance along the waterfalls to the top of the bluffs before turning northwards (left) onto an overgrown service road. The trail continues more or less along contour lines through ancient forest for more than an hour before circling eastwards around behind the Furry Creek Golf and Country Club. The creek in all her springtime fury should be plainly audible from the viewpoints. From the last of these the route drops steeply down an overgrown logging spur before reaching the active service road and powerline at the bottom. A left turn leads down to Furry Creek, the golf course and Highway 99 while a right parallels Phyllis Creek to her source. Continuing southwards, when you reach a fork in the road veer right as the left branch leads to Mount Capilano. Continue a short distance before crossing to the opposite bank of Phyllis Creek. Follow the power lines up through second growth forest to reach first Marion Lake then Phyllis Lake at 518 m elevation.

Deeks Lake Trail <<->> Mount Capilano

Level: Difficult

Distance: 13 km r/t

Time: 7 h r/t

Elevation Change: 980 m

Map: Squamish 92G/11

Season: July – Oct

Access: See Getting to Whistler

This thigh-burner starts out the same as the previous walk. Instead of turning off at the Bluffs Trail keep following the logging road for another 20 minutes as the trail gradually turns inland meeting up with the Old Deeks Lake Trail. Both trails join now, following a route parallel to Deeks Creek that is decidedly up.

The logging road dwindles down to foot track just before it detours up and around a landslide area. The bypass is well-delineated with orange markers. Phi Alpha Falls will be first heard then seen as you approach the last steep set of switchbacks before climbing over the lip above your destination. Deeks Lake is a beautiful mountain jewel surrounded by scree slopes, old-growth forest and areas of open scrub.

Mount Windsor is directly east while to the north Deeks Peak lords over the lake that shares its name. Both were named for John Deeks who, in 1910, created the lake to provide a dependable water source for his quarrying operations far below. Tarry awhile over lunch, a refreshing dip or lakeside snooze before undertaking the knee-gnashing descent. Return to where you started or, for a change of pace, follow the Old Deeks Lake Trail out to the highway. Be sure to return before the last bus passes by.

Deeks Bluffs Trail <<->> Phyllis Creek

Level: Easy

Distance: 7 km o/w

Time: 4 h o/w

Elevation Change: 385 m

Map: Squamish 92G/11

Season: Year Round

Access: See Getting to Whistler

The bus driver should have no trouble stopping on the wide shoulder in front of the trailhead to Deeks Lake. Knowing in advance that the stop is immediately past a small sign for Bosco Creek, on the long straightaway leading up to the hill above Porteau Cove Provincial Park should be helpful however.

From the road the trail shoots straight up the shoulder of the mountain over a short section of creekside switchbacks. Once you reach the top of the bluffs however the main trail turns right onto an abandoned logging road and continues gaining altitude at a more modest pace. Turn left instead to explore the nearby quarry, now abandoned, that once belonged to the Deeks Sand and Gravel Company.

Back on the main trail, begin looking for a branch to the right after 45 minutes or so. Having located the Bluffs Trail, leave behind the trail to Deeks Lake and head down towards the highway for a few minutes. Another right hand branch leads up to a viewpoint overlooking the islands of Howe Sound, an ideal spot for lunch.

Descend to the Bluffs Trail and continue first west then south. The whole area is a nest of disused logging roads but the main route should be obvious. Expect to encounter numerous viewpoints as you make your way along the bluffs high above Highway 99. Eventually the trail begins to descend again, gradually at first then just before the end of the trail, very steeply. Back at the busy Sea to Sky Highway cross the road and look for a pull-out from which to flag down the next Vancouver-bound bus.

Baden-Powell Centennial Trail: Hyannis Drive to Deep Cove <<->> Deeks Lake Trail

Level: Moderate

Distance: 7.2 km

Time: 4 h

Elevation Change: 275 m

Season: Year Round

Map: 92 G/6 & 92 G/7

Access: Take the #210 Upper Lynn Valley from Dunsmuir Street next to Burrard SkyTrain station to Phibbs Exchange. Change to the #214 Blueridge bus to Hyannis Drive. Walk west past Berkley Avenue to the trailhead on your right.

After climbing at a moderate pace for 2.3 km, you’ll reach Mount Seymour Provincial Park where the terrain begins its descent towards Deep Cove 4.9 km to the east. On the way you’ll pass a branch leading up to the historic Mushroom Parking Lot. Just fifteen minutes out of the way, you’ll be rewarded by great views of the lower mainland from the picnic area. Consider returning to the Baden-Powell trail in a loop via the Old Buck Access Trail and a short segment of the Old Buck Trail itself. The detour avoids backtracking while adding only 10 minutes to your hike.

For those wishing to bail out at Mount Seymour Road hourly bus service is 2 km down the hill near the park headquarters on Indian River Road. The #215 bus will take you to Phibbs Exchange where you have to transfer to the #210 Vancouver bus. Continuing eastward through the park you’ll soon come to Indian River Road which you’ll have to follow a short distance to a power line right-of-way. From here the trail will soon lead south to a rocky bluff with magnificent views of Indian Arm and Deep Cove. The final leg of the Baden-Powell trail cuts back west again through a short but extremely pretty section of lush west coast rain forest. Turn right at the end of the trail and then left on the next street. The charming community of Deep Cove offers enough of the usual tourist treats to satisfy even the hungriest hikers. At the foot of Gallant Street pick up either the #211 or #212 bus to Phibbs Exchange. A quick change to the #210 Vancouver bus will take you downtown.

Baden-Powell Centennial Trail: Lynn Canyon to Hyannis Drive <<->> Deeks Bluffs Trail